• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.535-546
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• 2017

This study considers direction types and formative characteristics by analyzing natural objets in contemporary fashion window display. The research methods are both literature review and content analysis based on images of contemporary fashion window display. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the direction types of natural objets in contemporary fashion window display expand objective outlines by maximizing the morphological form of objects. Second, a rhythmic sense expressed through a gradual repetition of patterns or a sequential arrangement of natural objects. Third, it represents a reversal of image accomplished through a modification of material on the natural objects. Fourth, a new space is created by transforming two dimensional forms of natural objects. The first formative characteristic of natural objects in contemporary fashion window display is exaggeration. This is expressed through either the expansion of the external volume, the collapsed form of natural objects, or the distortion of external colors. Second, it is a dynamics. This makes it possible to recall the dynamic image of the integration of the observer with a priori thinking by systematically sequencing objects or inducing a specific motion. Third, it is an abstraction. This provides an opportunity for the observer to find in a natural beauty by exchanging physical form or reinterpreting characteristic points. Fourth, it concerns eclecticism characteristic that objects created through the mutual fusion of heterogeneous elements indicates an aesthetic inspiration in a limited space by diverting conventional thinking toward natural objects with expansion of consciousness on formative arts.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.13
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• pp.133-156
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• 2012

This paper briefly charts the history of excrement as part of the late 20th-century art and explores ways in which excrement functions in the realms of 'High' art. From Piero Manzoni's to David Hammons' performance , excrement has taken a small yet distinctively important part in the development of contemporary art. In an attempt to challenge the hegemony of 'high' art, on the one hand, and resist the commercialization and fetishization of art, on the other, Manzoni allegedly offered his own "shit" preserved in a tin can and sold it at the price of gold of the same weight. Andy Warhol took the legendary Abstract-Expressionist painter Jackson Pollock as the object of parody, simulating Pollock's dripping action by pissing onto the canvas that had been primed with copper-based paint. Warhol's urination produced splashes and stains of iridescent colors just as the patterns on ordinary abstract paintings. In contrast to Pollock's masculine action, Warhol's pissing alludes to the artist's homosexuality. Excrements in art also provoked controversies, debates, and even acts of vandalism against the artworks. The works of Andres Serrano and Chris Ofili infuriated many Christians for the blasphemous use of excrement with religious icons. Politicians engaged in the heated debates on the use of public and national funds in support of some of the 'politically incorrect' contemporary art. In the midst of media sensation and criticisms, these works challenged the conventional understanding of artistic beauty. The preexisting artworks were also targeted. African-american artist Hammons assumed the role of spectator in by urinating on Richard Serra's sculpture in the street of New York City. It was an act condemnation levelled at the racist pattern of the way in which large portions of funds and commisions of "public" art tended to promote established 'white' artists, whose work or creative process often failed to reflect the actual public. The use of excrement in art is not unusual in contemporary art practices. With its subversive power, excrement plays an important critical roles in the shaping of contemporary art.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.41-53
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• 2014

Contemporary fashion designers are keen on linking the past and the present through culture and fashion by the attempt to investigate and research on the costumes recorded in its history and to reinterpret it on their own terms. Covering the history of culture ranging from the 70s and 80s to the ancient Greek and Egyptian periods, these reinterpretations also reflect the latest fad of the times in which a fashion designer lives and works. Above all, Rococo costume from the eighteenth century is one of the fashion styles adored by fashion designers. What constitute the costume of this period creating the image of sensual women are not only the form of outfit, colors, the design of accessories, shoes and hairstyle but also the details such as frills, ribbons and flower decorations. In contemporary times, the original Rococo style has been modified and turned into various styles in the haute couture and street fashion. These modernized styles include Rock Rococo, Modern Rococo, Lolita Look, Gyaru Fashion and etc., all of which adopt the Rococo style and consider it as the symbol of feminine beauty. However, their approaches to the original Rococo style differ from each other. Hence, advocating the elegance of women is not invariably the case. Often, the interpretations of the Rococo are unconventional, defiant and wild. And, sometimes, these new versions of Rococo are overly exaggerated and emphasized or, reversely, reduced. In this research, various references on the Rococo elements such as colors, forms, accessories and detailed features that has influenced on the contemporary fashion will be analyzed. This analysis will demonstrate how the Rococo style of the eighteenth century has been integrated into contemporary fashion giving birth to new Rococo fashion styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.69-83
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• 2013

This research is to analyze costumes of Greek Mythology Gods in films using Morris' semiotics. In film "Clash of The Titans", Zeus' costume of shining gold armored body suit and long manteaux expressed the limitless sublime. The definite form contouring body shape of his costume also demonstrated classical beauty. Hades' costume of dark colored armor, long manteaux, and transformation via smoke also described the limitless sublime. The unbalanced and irregular shaped armor showed ugliness. In "Percy Jackson & The Olympians: The Lightening Thief", the armor and long manteaux of Zeus showed the limitless sublime. The beauty of his body and his sophisticated business wear indicated classical beauty. These features were also present in Poseidon's costume as well. The limitless sublime and ugliness are implied in Hades' look by portraying him as having a monster body with horns and wings, and his costume of punk look. In "Immortals", gods of Olympus wore clothing that was reminiscent of Egyptian times, which represented a time of strong royal authority, in order to expose the limitless sublime. Classical beauty was shown in the beauty of their body. Titans' costumes and look of non-human being were composed of black and red to present ugliness. The inherent meanings of Gods' costumes are death of god, patriarchy, and the good triumphing over the evil. The Greek gods are not held in the same reverence in the contemporary society. However mythology inspires lots of visual creations. The results help to accumulate a creative design database for fashion.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.71-71
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• 2003

In the 21st century, people expect new era and are skeptical about standardized life made by mechanization as well as information. They start to regard the Oriental culture, which was thought to be quite different from the Western culture, as an alternative overcoming Western ideas spiritual crisis because the Oriental culture has exotic beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.538-544
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• 2007

We usually try to accomodate ourselves to our nature surroundings interacting with nature. There fore I've decided to apply nature materials, esp. the pine to Hair Art as a way of expressing our feelings from Nature. 'Hair Art' is a follow-up study based on the various artistic point of view. There has been various works of 'Hair Art' with nature materials. However, it is rare to see a work of 'Hair Art' with the pine. That's why I've decided to study more about this. This study is a new experiment in 'Hair Art' against a conventional idea "Hair Art values practicability." Therefore, the primary goal of this study is to do much for the cause of learning in 'Hair Art' and encourages some development of 'Hair Art' industry. I've researched an image of a pine tree in art of Joseon Dynasty and contemporary art. Then I've tried to apply the image to a work of 'Hair Art'. First of all, in a view of expression technique for the symbolism of the pine, the artists in Joseon Dynasty drew pictures of a pine tree with a paintbrush but the modern artists make a new attempt from the thought of Modernism. We can find it in some photos. Next, to express traditional oriental idea such as 'unconventional and elegance', comtemporary artists chose the symbolism of the pine tree as an object of their works like pen and ink sketches from the thought of Modernism. Third, in a fusion style picture which contains features of both oriental paintings and western paintings and in a sexualism style picture that depicts a harmony of a male and a female as a shape of a pine, we can find colorful images of a pine tree and Their figurative beauty in art. Those are another symbols of the pine. In conclusion, the implication of the pine tree still hasn't changed even there are differences of drawings of pine tree in the past and the present. I've tried to combine these symbolic ideas of the pine with 'Hair Art' and made 5 hair styles. Throughout the process of researching this topic which is 'The Study of Hair Art Using The Symbolism of The Pine', I've realized that pine trees make it possible to express intrinsic tough spirit of human being and abundance in color and figurative beauty in art. I hope this can contribute to the field of 'Hair Art' and would become an important educational resource for further study.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.216-228
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• 2010

Recently, there is a new issue, among the contemporary people, for new life style, such as green design and well being. This trend brought up the necessity that there should be alternatives for interior spatial design. In order to catch up with these new issues, the new convenient and environment friendly methods are in need. Space composition using setting-up is skill that can express both the structural aspect and esthetic because it represents traditional beauty into the contemporary age through the structural rigidity and formal beauty. Also the lumber, as main materials for setting up, is in line with well being life style and environment friendliness. The construction of structure by setting-up has advantages in terms of the reuse and the convenience in that the construction of structure is adjustable according to environment. And setting-up has enough plasticity not only because of its own role as linking the objects but also because of being framed by itself. Therefore setting-up will be a design element, if it is expressed outward. Thus, this study aims to give a guide line about how to apply the result from the evaluating that "what is the most suitable setting-up" and "what is the most suitable detail setting-up", based on that structural rigidity, decorativeness and the ease of works. As a result of evaluation, the most excellent types of setting-up in terms of structural rigidity are "Jangbu" and "Panjae" and "Yeongui". The most excellent types of setting-up in terms of decorativeness are "Panjae" and "Yeongui", and the most excellent type of the ease of work is "Mat". And also the most applicable detail setting-up for the utilization of spatial composition is proposed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.194-205
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• 2012

Historically, garments have been spontaneously made with human instinct in order to warm and decorate the body using textiles that have been made and used by various peoples in different cultures. Contemporary garments have been used as a means of warming as well as express individual personality and a desire to pursue beauty. They have a unique formativeness and a symbolic nature according to cultural phenomena that reflect a cultural outcome that expresses contemporary thinking and ideology as well as their aesthetic consciousness. This study globally promotes Chinese opera mask culture and proposes the possibility of creative thinking through the introduction of Chinese opera mask elements into contemporary fashion, expressing them as patchworks. In order to endow artistic value (required in contemporary fashion) this study creates works by analyzing and applying a formative sense seen in patchwork techniques and the characteristics of Chinese opera masks; in addition, it sought the possibility of new expressions in garment designs. The results obtained from the research involve the following. First, the introduction of the traditional patchwork technique to contemporary garments may be a dynamic theme of garment expression and exceed stereotypical ideas that enable the creation of designs attuned to the globalization era. Second, it was possible to pursue independent formativeness which is in harmony with a modern sense through the restructuring of the harmony of colors and practical characteristics found in patchworks. Third, it was possible to demonstrate their artistry and unique effect in the expression of contemporary garments by the expression of the analyzed results of characteristic patterns of Chinese opera masks with a patchwork technique in creating works. Results show that it is necessary to conduct research into a patchwork technique that applies diverse materials as a new method to develop contemporary garment design also as a creative design. In addition, if the analyzed results of the characteristic patterns of Chinese opera masks can be expressed with a patchwork technique, they may be able to exhibit a genuine effect along with the artistry of expression in contemporary garments; thereby, relevant follow-up research should be further continued.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.14-28
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• 2012

'Beauty(美)' is pursued by many women. It has been expressed through fashion which has become more various as the society became wealthier. This phenomenon can also be found in the Salon Culture of the 17~18th Centuries and in the way that the free-style socialization without specific purposes began by women. Such 'salon culture' fashions have been reproduced in various methods by contemporary fashion designers as they met the trends or as they became the inspiration and source of ideas and were reinterpreted in various styles. Therefore, it is necessary to compare and analyze the studies and expression methods regarding that style's effects on contemporary fashion at a time when the women's salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries is being naturally combined with or restructured to fit in with contemporary fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze, establish the concept of, and summarize the characteristics of the salon fashion style in order to provide fundamental scholarly information and a direction for the fashion design market by establishing a database on the characteristics of both eras based on the characteristics analysis results of the contemporary fashion style and salon culture era. Moreover, this study is also significant in that it will be a helpful tool for new design development to satisfy consumer needs, and in that the comparison analysis on the salon culture and contemporary fashion characteristics can be a useful tool to understand the fashions of both era. The study methods were, first, through a literature review to study the concepts and background of the salon culture. The second method was to setup a style analysis of a period of 4 years and collect visual data from internet fashion information web sites, such as collection books, to collect and analyze the data. Third, the analysis focused mainly on the results of the categorization of images with 20 fashion experts. Fourth, the details of the salon culture fashion style that are used the most in contemporary fashion were summarized and analyzed. Therefore, the results of this study are as follows The development of the socializing culture during the economically abundant era of the 17~18th Centuries became the stepstool for women to enter a new society and at the same time became the background of the development of the salon and related literature. For the characteristics of the salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries, the changes were more significant in the details of the collars, necklines, sleeves, and robes, rather than in partial silhouette changes. It was found that the same fashion repeats in several-century intervals depending on the era changes; however, it has been reinterpreted newly based on consumer preferences and era situations instead of being reused exactly. Therefore, this study will become scholarly and fundamental data to establish the contemporary understanding of the fashion of the salon culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.28-38
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• 2008

Balhae was an ancient Korean kingdom that existed almost 1,300 years ago. It was a dynamic time in the Korean history when the national strength was building up in terms of politics, economy and culture, thereby called as "Haedongseongguk, the powerhouse in the East". Balhae had dominated parts of Manchuria and the northern part of the Korean peninsula between the late 7th century and the 10th century, occupying the center stage of the northern Korean history. It serves as a window to the East Asia in the present as well as in the past. Yet, due to its geography spanning from the North Korea to Kilin Province of China to part of Heilongjiang Province and to the Littoral Province of Siberia, Balhae has been the center of historical disputes among neighboring countries that insist it is part of each of their own history. China argues that it was a prefecture of the Tang Dynasty, established by the Mohe, not a successor to Goguryeo, which is a China-oriented viewpoint of history. In addition, Russia recognizes Balhae as their first-ever medieval feudal state since the Littoral Province is now under their sovereignty. Therefore, the restoration of Balhae history is in line with the veritable establishment of the ancient Korean history. For this, it is necessary to embrace inter-disciplinary achievements and to continue efforts to adopt them rather than to blame the shortage of historical documents and the difficulty of the excavation of relics. If fashion is "a visual symbol" of our society, beauty culture serve as a mirror to reflect our civilization and culture directly or indirectly. Still, it is not easy to draw similarities by analyzing and comparing the attributes of various cultures and civilizations party because the essence of culture lies in diversity. Nevertheless, it is believed that cultural liaison as well as geographical liaison can be a medium to compensate for the limits of the foreign exchange history of Southeast Asia in proving the relationship between Goguryeo and Balhae, by examining and speculating beauty culture that reflect their period. It was confirmed by various documents regarding Goguryeo out of relics, historical sites and documents. Mural paintings showed how the people of Balhae wore and accessorized themselves. They also allowed us to speculate their way of living. As the contemporary historians can assert that Balhae is part of the Korean history thanks to the realism scholars in the late Joseon Dynasty, who rediscovered the Balhae history and conducted practical researches, it is expected that researchers who study beauty culture contribute to completing the restoration of the Balhae history by thoroughly examining our history, costume and beauty culture.