• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.173-179
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• 2010

In this study, we determine the stretch and shrinkage properties of conjugated yarns. The shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) were determined by applying twist conditions of 0, 350, 800, 1000, 1200, 1400, 1600, 2000 T/M (twisting per meter). It is found that the shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) gradually decreased with increasing T/M. Especially the elasticity(%) dramatically decreased over 1400 T/M condition. In contrast, it is showed that the handle and drapery properties decreased below 1000 T/M, which indicates that the optimal T/M condition could be 1000~1400. The effect of shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) with different steam setting temperatures (60, 70, 80 and $90^{\circ}C$) was also determined. The shrinkage(%) decreased with increasing setting temperature, while the elasticity not changed. In this context, the optimal steam setting temperature could be $80^{\circ}C$ because it is not easy to weave with the yarns which was set below $80^{\circ}C$. The elasticity(%) decreased with increasing the density of warp and weft. To produce soft handle, excellent drapery and good stretch fabrics, the warp density needs to be reached by 90% of the ideal warp density. In the case of NaOH treatments to the fabrics, the elasticity(%) increased with increasing weight reduction. Therefore, this study have demonstrated that the conjugated yarns with core yarn and the SDY CD(cation dyeable spindraw yarn) as an effect yarn would be appropriate to produce excellent mixture-yarn, which displays clean appearance, good handle and excellent elasticity, The optimized conditions are as follows; 1000~1200 twist per meter, $80^{\circ}C$ steam setting temperature, 90% of ideal warp density and relaxation condition treated with 5g/l NaOH concentration.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.47-57
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• 2011

As the development of denim products using new differentiated materials plays an important role regardless of their target age groups, there is an increasing need for the development of premium denim designs for senior women using various materials. As part of the strategy to develop such a design for the senior generation, a market survey was performed regarding commercially available premium denim products in the market, and the current trends in the denim market were researched and analyzed to make use of the results in design development. In addition, a differentiated material, hybrid yarn using conjugated dyeing (HYCD) was applied to use several washing techniques capable of highlighting the unique features of denim clothing. The design of four items including a jacket, vest, capri pants and long pants were suggested. These items were differentiated from other products by emphasizing their details such as stitching and pockets. In light of the current consumer trend to select denim jeans on the basis of their fashion-ability (e.g., silhouette or color) rather than practicality or price, it is considered meaningful to develop high value added, premium jean products for the senior generation using diverse materials and details. At the same time, performing further studies designed to demonstrate the stability and reliability of the developed products through consumers' comparative assessment is required.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.500-507
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• 2010

In this study, physical properties were studied by using latent stretching yarn in order to develop the texturing yarn technique for super bulky yarn, which is better in bulkiness and handle than natural wool and also adds property of synthetic fiber to natural wool. In order to obtain textured conditions by analysing basic properties for manufacturing DTY yarn with super bulky property, DTY 50d/12 after spinning latent yarn spined POY 80d/12 was obtained under the two conditions of (i) false twist(T/M) level 3 in DTY texturing and (ii) draw ratio level 4 in draw texturing. For DTY texturing yarn, Elongation rate increased as the heat treatment time and temperatures increased. In addition, shrinkage became higher as false twist was higher, so that elongation rate became lower. When annealing became longer in time and higher in temperature, initial modulus increased. In addition, as the count of false twist increased, the initial modulus showed higher values. For draw texturing yarn, under the conditions of heat temperature 180 and heating time 30 minutes, shrinkage rate in draw ratio 1.55 and 1.6 draw ratio was 7%, and that in 1.65 and 1.7 draw ratio was 8.5%. High draw ratio samples' tenacity was much influenced by heating time and temperature, but low draw ratio samples' tenacity was influenced not by treated time, but by treated temperature.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2008.10a
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• pp.141-142
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• 2008

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.288-295
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• 2012

Although some degree of mechanical properties of suede fabrics mainly related to non-woven suede fabric has some researched, the thin suede fabric has rarely been researched. In this study, polyester(DTY 50/72) was used for warp, and after producing latent yarn and sea-island yarn for weft, two yarns were compounded to produce sea-island DTY yarn. By using the two produced yarns for warp and weft, we produced thin suede fabric with stretch function. For weft 2ply, weft density 85, 90, 100(picks/in) were applied to weave fabric, and for weft 1ply, weft density 125, 135, 140(picks/in) were applied to produce weft face 5-end satin weave. The mechanical properties of the produced fabric were researched. The result are as followed. The weight loss ratio of the suede fabric produced for this experiment reached 15% on the conditions of temperature $90^{\circ}C$ and 20 minutes, so that island parts were completely separated. The strength of weft 1ply applied suede fabric was about 7.5kg and that of 2ply suede fabric and about 3.5kg. But the strain of two samples ranged from about 40 to 43%. Although Hari was high when weft was denser. The values of Koshi and Kisimi were low. And shear stiffness was high when sea-island DTY yarn was used. The WC value was higher in the case of 2ply than in that of 1ply sea-island DTY yarn for weft, so that we may conclude that Fukurami was more affected in the 2ply case.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.229-230
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• 2009

Recently the demand for wool has been gradually decreasing due to global warming, oil depletion, Coolbiz campaign to reduce CO2 emission, and preference for business casual wear, while the price for wool materials has been constantly increasing. Wool, characterized by the natural touch and unique sensibility, is considered as one of the best natural materials, including silk. For wool, currently Korea almost depends on import from foreign countries. Therefore, 100% wool products cannot be competitive in terms of pricing and current trend. To secure sustaining competitiveness in the fiber market, it is required not only to develop new wool materials that enable expression of new sensibility that cannot be expressed by conventional wool fibers, but also to pursue differentiation of fundamental sensibility and functionality by highlighting advantages for wool as a natural fiber but by reducing its disadvantages through dominant conjugation with synthetic fibers. This study attempted to improve the technology of differentiating wool-like synthetic fibers such as polyester and combine technology with sensibility through mixing with wool materials. It also aimed to develop wool-like stretch materials and pre-treating and yarn dyeing technologies that enable fabrics to main natural wool-like touch and stretch, and ultimately to develop wool mixed fabrics that have new sensibility and functionality.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.91-91
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 아랍 중동지역 이슬람교 여성들이 착용하고 있는 베일이나 망토 형태의 전통의상(히잡(Hijab), 차도르(Chador), 아바야(Abaya) 등)에 사용되는 심색 제트블랙(Jet-Black) 소재를 개발하기 위하여, 고분자 조합에 의한 심초형 복합방사(POY 85/36) 및 열연신 복합가공사(ACY 135/72)를 개발, 심미적 심색성 및 세탁견뢰도가 우수한 Jet-Black 제품(L값 7.32)을 개발하였다.