• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.30-43
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• 2013

This study provides suggestions of cultural product design contents by using the cloud-shaped gong in traditional temple culture in order to find a high value-added approach. The research herein is part of cultural design contents projects embedded with the spiritual value and symbolic connotation of temple culture. This would be meaningful to enhance its degree of utilization. This can also be a way to find a strategic alternative to a high value addition of temple stay and dissemination of temple culture. For the research methodology, literature was reviewed over temple stay and Bulgeonsamul. For motive design and development of cultural product design, both Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used as computer design program. The template image of cloud-shaped gong for basic motive design was selected from those available at the domestic temples for accurate depiction of its head and body. Finally, samples were adopted from those temples of Gounsa, Songgwangsa, Guinsa, Hwaeomsa, and Naesosa. For each motive, different colors were applied and ten basic motives were practiced in total. By repeating the process for these motives, three types of textile design were prepared. T-shirt designs used a round neckline as basic form, and it was designed for sleeved and sleeveless styles. Apron designs stressed V-neckline and two types were processed: one for the back seam line and the other for side seam line. Pendants were designed with modern and luxurious image so that so that it could be used in various types of accessories. Designs for the bedding applied pattern design of the motives and this was done in a way that gave the images a sense of stability and splendor.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권2호
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• pp.244-255
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• 2023

Patterns abstractly depicting flowing water with Chinese characters such as gong, wan(man), or wang continued endlessly and curved water patterns began appearing on textiles during the Song Dynasty. Though Song curved water patterns encompassed poetic sentiments such as "falling flowers and flowing water," the meaning faded with time, and these patterns were depicted in backgrounds with flowers added to brocade (Geum-sang-cheom-hwa). During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, combinations of diverse patterns, including flowers, butterflies, dragons, and auspicious treasures became fashionable, rather than the gong- and wan-shaped curved water patterns. Likewise, during the Joseon Dynasty, curved water patterns were preferred as background rather than as primary patterns. They were overlaid with flowers and clouds. The overlaid flower patterns included four-season flower patterns (17th-18th centuries), round flower patterns (19th century), and large flower patterns (20th century), which were identical to flower patterns fashionable at the time and arranged at intervals on complex curved water pattern backgrounds. In contrast, simple Ruyi types were more numerous than the four-Ruyi types fashionable at the time with regard to cloud patterns. Added here were Taiji (great ultimate symbol) or crane patterns, thus seeking to depict diverse auspicious Ruyi such as wish fulfillment and longevity.

• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제36호
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• pp.751-781
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• 2018

월정사 탑돌이는 광복 이후 재현된 첫 번째 불교민속놀이로 불교문화로서의 대표성과 역사성을 지닌 주요 무형문화재이다. 월정사 탑돌이는 한국 고유의 전통성과 강원도의 정체성이 내재된 불교민속유산이라는 점에서 지정 가치가 크다. 전국 사찰에서 탑돌이가 시연되고 있지만 무형문화재 지정을 기반으로 체계적인 전승이 이루어지고 있는 경우는 월정사 탑돌이가 유일하다. 월정사 탑돌이의 문화재 내재적 가치에 주목해야 할 이유이다. 탑돌이는 부처님, 탑에 대한 예경방식의 총체적 표현물이다. 월정사 탑돌이의 원형은 추정하기 어려우나, 월정사의 역사성으로 보아 고구려 계통의 놀이와 신라 복회(福會)에 닿아 있다. 고구려벽화의 달, 오대산 화엄사상경 배경과 팔각구층탑의 본질의 측면에서 우요삼잡의 예법에 부합한다. 탑돌이 때 처음에는 범종, 고(鼓), 운판, 목어의 사법악기(四法樂器)만 쓰이다가 후에 삼현육각(三弦六角)이 합쳐지고, "보렴"과 "백팔정진가"을 부른 것을 보면 처음에는 순수한 불교의식이던 것이 차츰 민속화해서 민중 속에 전파된 것을 알 수 있다. 월정사 탑돌이의 전형은 회향의례의 환희심을 체험하는 우요삼잡의 풀이와 관련된다. 절에서 대재(大齎)가 있으면 신도들은 공양을 올린다. 이때에 염불, 범음(梵音), 범패(梵唄)가 따르며, 재가 끝나면 신도는 승려와 함께 불탑을 돌면서 부처님의 공덕을 빌고, 또 저마다의 기원을 빈다. 일신의 왕생극락은 물론 국태민안을 빌어 태평성대를 누리고자 하였다. 큰 재일수록 많은 신도들이 모이며 따라서 탑돌이도 성황을 이루었다. 법음(法音)에 맞춰 제각기 소원을 외면서 탑을 도는 모습은 엄숙하였다. 월정사 탑돌이의 변형과 융합에 대한 발상은 전형 곧 문화재 지정의 취지 유지와 정체성 차원을 살리되 전승의 공연화를 위한 계승적 전략이 필요하다. 한국탑돌이는 4월 초팔일과 중추절인 한가위 날에는 탑돌이가 있었다. 탑돌이의 공연성은 스님이 염주를 들고 탑을 돌면서 부처의 큰 뜻과 공덕을 노래하면 사찰 신도들이 그 뒤를 따라 등을 밝혀 들고 탑을 돌면서 극락왕생을 기원하는 회향형(回向型) 불교민속놀이에 있다. 공연성 활성화는 신행 보유자 전승교육, 전문가 자문의 다차원 접근, 원형 재현의 담론 등을 단계적으로 보강하여야 한다.