• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.105-119
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• 2010

The style of costumes which dancers put on for dancing on a stage reflects the times, culture, and traditionality of movements in dancing. Accordingly, everyday dresses are adopted as the stage costumes in some cases and stage costumes lead the trend in other cases. Furthermore, like stage costumes in other genres, dancing costumes put more emphasis on expressive features in the functions of clothing unlike everyday dresses. In particular, dancing costumes shall sufficiently and delicately express each movement using the costumes as well as rhythms and melodies of music for dance. Ballet which is the representative western dance was derived from the world "Ballare" meaning "dance" in Italian. As shown in the change of word, ballet started in Italy. In Italy taking initiatives for all artistic activities in Europe as leading Renaissance in the 15th century, ballet started as the court dance and favored by French. Then, ballet flourished in France and was developed to the Romantic ballet in the 19th century. During the Renaissance, the early stage of ballet development the dancers put on the dresses which were in fashion at that time on the stage. The dancing costumes added the decorative features suitable for the characteristics of main actors or actresses and contents of dances to the dresses in fashion at relevant times in 17th and 18th century. "Panier", the dancing costume in the 18th century, was sensationally popular among women. As described above, the study on the features of dancing costumes by times not only arranges the costumes in each times but also investigates emotions and artistic and aesthetic values of those who lived in the relevant times. Furthermore, it is the way to experience the height of fantasy and beauty.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the male perceiver's image evaluation on women's hairstyle and hair color, and to disclose the preference of the hairstyle and hair color. The experimental design was $2{\times}3{\times}3$ (hair $wave{\times}hair\;length{\times}hair$ color) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli were 18 women's upper body photographs which were output by computer simulation. The hairstyles were straight hair and wavy hair, and the types of the hair length were long, medium, and short hair. The hair colors were black, dark brown, and bright brown. Subjects were 154 men living in Seoul. The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$ reliability coefficient, three-way ANOVA, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan's multiple range test. The results of this study were as follows. Four image dimensions were derived by factor analysis. These were individuality, elegance, potency, and attractiveness. Male perceivers evaluated the women's long hairstyles to be more elegant than the short and the medium length hairs. The women's short hairstyles were perceived more potent than the long and the medium length hairs. The straight hairs were evaluated more elegant than the permed hairs, and the permed hairs were evaluated higher in individuality and attractiveness. The black hairs were perceived lowest in attractiveness, and the bright colors were perceived low in elegance. Male preferred the long brown straight hair first. They liked women's long hairs better than the short and the medium length hairs. Teenaged males preferred various hair colors more than those in their 20's and 30's did.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.101-111
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate using and evaluative criteria for purchasing of sleepwear in winter. Subjects were 523 males and females aged from twenties to fifties, living in Chongju and Taejon. For data analysis, frequency, descriptive analysis, t-test, and F-test were used. The results are as follows. First, the ownership of sleepwear was sweat suits with zippered top, pajamas, T-shirts/pants, underwear, and nightgown in order. The mean of using sweat suits was used the highest, and subjects used more home wear than sleepwear in winter. Second, the using or sleepwear had a significant difference in cold-sensitiveness and body types. Cold-sensitive group used sweat suit and T-shirts/pants more than cold-insensitive group. Also, groups who are thin wore sweat suit the most while groups who are corpulent, used underwear the most when they slept. Third, subjects, who are married women and use bed, used nightgown, but pajamas were used by groups who are older, married, and professional. Sweat suits and T-shirts/pants were used the most by single aged twenties. Forth, consumers considered the wearing comfort when they purchased sleepwear for winter, and they evaluated washing/management, fabric, design/style, economic, service, brand, and others' response in order, for judging the quality of sleepwear. Also, the evaluative criteria had a significant difference in demographic variables such as sex, occupation, and marital state. These results implied that sleepwear would be needed for winter in terms of behavioral temperature regulation. Especially, cold-sensitive and thin group would wear knitted and two-piece sleepwear for thermal comfort when they sleep in winter. Also, Using and evaluative criteria of sleepwear would be different in demographic characteristics. For winter, sleepwear should be develop based on physiologic as well as demographic variables.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.97-109
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• 1997

Sean means a narrow cloth added to the edge of costume or cushion. At the beginning, Seon was originated to prevent from fraying warp of cloth or wearing out of cloth. However, with the progress of clothing culture, it is used to satisfy the human desire of decoration and enhance the function of costume. The Seon appeared on costumes of Ming dynasty was simple compared to that of the period preceeding it. The position of Seon was mostly at neckline, end of sleeves and hemline. The width of Seon also was quite monotonous and lacks of varieties. The patterns of Seon were limited to ax, cloud and dragon and cloud and chinese phoenix. And the colors used were also limited to four colors, namely Blue, Red Crimson and Black. In Ming dynasty, the same colors of Seon as those of the costume were more preferably used, while different colors of Seon were used in the previous era. The reason why Seon in Ming dynasty show simple design and use the same colors as those of the costume was due to Ming dynasty's desire to represent and to enhance her castic political structure. The need for class distinction was expressed through the pattern rather than the colors of the costumes themselves. While, in Ming dynasty, Bo(補) which was attached to the breast and the shoulders was used to represent the social class because it could be easily distinguished. In Ming dynasty, to stress Bo and to make Seon less conspicuous, Seon became simple and the colors of Seon were same as those of the costumes avoiding strong contrast in style and colors.

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• 복식
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• 제62권2호
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• pp.40-54
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• 2012

The significance of this research lies in the analysis of that appears in the comedy . It also aims to propose conceptual and analytical costume designs that emphasize the formal aspects of play by reflecting on the comical elements simultaneously. , the subject of this study, was played on November 12, 2009 at the Small Theater (Dalohreum Theater) in the National Theater as a celebration of the 40th anniversary of Suwon Women's College. The costumes were designed by this researcher and were produced in collaboration with the Creative Performances Research Institute (Suwon Women's College). The comic elements were categorized into deconstruction, deviation and unexpectedness according to previous studies on the humorous nature of comedy, and their aesthetic meanings were applied to the costumes. The designs that reflect the comic elements are as follows. The costume design reflecting deconstruction is a way that disassembles and recombines constructive aspects of clothing. It consists of seam margins outside or just left disassembled without sewing, dismantling the boundary of outerwear and underwear. The costume design reflects deviation because reformed shapes of collars, the variation of length and closure of skirts deviate from the traditional style. These are designed by distorting traditional designs with deviation and transcend of tradition. The costume designs the reflect unexpectedness integrates both tradition and the contemporary, and use materials of diversity and heterogeneity, and these are composed of external formats the result from incongruity. Because comic elements are metaphysical concepts that carry meanings that are difficult to define according to the country and period, it is required to analyze, organize and utilize their characteristics and meanings of each period. Since this study analyzed the comical elements of a play and applied them to costume design, it is hoped that a follow-up study of analytical costume design is be done, and that more diverse and more creative costume designs are in the next generation.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2014

The study aims to determine the significance and characteristics of self-similarity inherent in natural objects or phenomena, the existence of self-similarity in design created by fashion designers, and the traits and internal significance implied in self-similarity and their effects on fashion. The subject of the study is Viktor & Rolf, and the scope of the study is the collections created from 2001 to 2014, which include designs implemented in their early years and those unveiled in the media. Self-similarity means attributes of a fractal structure appearing without change in the original form, even after modification of scale or direction in terms of shape or phenomena. As self-similarity is applied to the arts and design sectors, it leads people to pay attention to fundamental characteristics and intrinsic forms as a factor of expressing a unique creative world. Analysis of Viktor & Rolf collections generated ribbons, overlapping/juxtaposition, side decorations and exaggerated design elements as basic units of self-similarity. These factors had self-similarity rates as high as 84%. Self-similarity was established as design elements formed in the incipient stage were repeated in a certain form, and continued for a long period of time. It served as an element that recognizes design and a fashion designer at the same time. Characteristics of self-similarity appearing in Viktor & Rolf collections can be summarized as homeostasis based on an equivalent relationship, balance based on self-organization, reducibility into essential elements, and uniqueness based on odd shapes. These characteristics influenced the pursuit of consistent brand image, the maintenance of a fashion designer's creative world, the formation of styles and the expression of a fashion designer's identity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.514-522
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• 2013

This study reviews the principles for the techniques of Impressionist paintings as well as analyzed contemporary fashion designs with a focus on a motif-building technique based on the laws of a screen equivalent as a visual formative approach. We provide design principles based on fashion design painting techniques. Previous research on the laws of the screen equivalent of Impressionist paintings were studied and a qualitative analysis was conducted on fashion design cases from 2011, 2012 S/S and F/W collections. The analysis resulted in the following outcomes. First, the development of new motifs were found directly correlated to the creativity of design if it was a motif-building design. Second, in the selected fashion design cases, cutting lines and details were covered by motifs and their shapes collapsed in regards to overall visual uniformity so that specific details were hard to identify. Third, clothing shapes are recognized the changing colors of motifs and not through construction pattern lines; therefore, the expressions of diverse visual forms were available without being disturbed by construction pattern lines. This is deemed equivalent to an Impressionist painting style that depicts shapes with colors instead of lines. Lastly, the cases covered in this study have created new visual aspects that replace the stereoscopic spatial depth of clothes with a 'sensuous surface'. The pleasures derived from the sensuous surface are deemed equivalent to the visual pleasures created by Impressionist paintings.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.76-92
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of women's fashion in the city culture of Paris in the nineteenth century by examining paintings by the Impressionists. The research method was based on literature survey and visual examination paintings, 224 paintings(by ${\acute{E}}douard$ Manet, James Tissot, Edgar DeGas, Gustave Cailleboat, Jean $B{\acute{e}}raud$, Pierre-Auguste Renoir) were analyzed in this study. The results are as follows: In the nineteenth century, Paris was a new city with new department stores. Department stores were centers of consumer culture, where the power of capital appeared rather than class. The spatial backgrounds of Impressionist paintings were places where they could see the consumption and leisure culture of urban people, such as outdoor parks, cafes, theaters, ballrooms, bars, streets, and the boats. As for the characteristics of women's fashion in paintings, it was found that various changes of artificial silhouettes were developed. Various frills, ruffles, gatherings, and pleats were thought to have been made by machines. In the urban space, many of the women's costumes stood out because of the black color. Not only the black color came to represent widows and mourning but the black outfits worn by women enhanced their sensual appearances. Women's fashion expressed in Impressionist paintings eventually contained a modern meaning that changed from 'class symbol' to 'expression of taste'. And the symbol of consumer and leisure culture showed, and a Demimonde's fashion became a trendsetter, and painters were used as an important element expressing modernity.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.615-622
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• 2007

Jeonju is well-known as a native place of traditional Hanji from ancient times because of it's proper weather, soil, and sunlights. Traditional Hanji is selected one of the Traditional Cultural Contents Industries of Jeonju nationally, and can produce synergy effects on gaining competition if we develop traditional Hanji industry into high-technology by relating cultural contents. The purposes of this study was to identify consumer attitudes and behaviors toward traditional Hanji products. The results of this study were as followed: 1. Representative products of Jeonju City were a rice with vegetables, a traditional Hanji, and a Korean-style house, and these results showed a consistancy with Han-Brand products promoted by Ministry of Culture and Tourism. 2. Many consumers experienced of a box, a copy paper, a book or notebook made of Hanji, but less experienced of fashion accessary products. Consumers had higher interests in wall or window paper and copy paper, but had lower interests in fashion accessary products such as necktie, shawl, and folding fan. More consumers intended to use wall or window paper and copy paper, but intended fashion accessary products less. Many kinds of Hanji products were produced and displayed on a Hanji Crafts House, but only few consumers had experiences. 3. Younger generations had higher interests and experiences of Hanji products, and unmarried officiers or full-time house wives had experiences Hanji crafts more. 4. Consumers were interested in daily necessaries or interior products made of Hanji.