• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.263-271
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• 2012

Cultural products reflect a living culture and evolve despite being based on traditional forms only. It is known as traditional cultural expression that portray certain culture groups, materials, spiritual and creativity inspired from their living environment that characterize a society. The old Malay community had a close relationship with their surrounding and environment. Sensitivity towards the nature and surrounding environment moved them into creative people. In designing the local traditional textile, role of the motifs, design and product design play an important element in Malay cultural values. This reflects the symbols and philosophy of the arts and culture and thus becomes the identity of the Malay community, which in general practice their culture and tradition based on Islamic culture and religion. Kelantan and Terengganu are the pioneer states for most producers of Malay traditional textiles. In these states the Pelangi cloths, is one of the unique textiles use and inherited by the Malay communities. Base on history, the Malay rulers and Malay nobility used Pelangi cloth as complementing clothing and ornament in attending various ceremonies and customs in their daily life. In this paper will discuss the specific picture of Pelangi motifs, design and its usage in Malay society in Malay Peninsula through its identification aspect of representations. It shows that this textile represent certain insights of Malay customs and identity.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.71-84
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• 2009

For fit satisfaction evaluation, the subjects were asked to put on the jackets from the seven manufacturers in random order, view how the jackets fit in a full-body mirror and answer questions regarding fitting in 22 specific areas, including the neck, shoulders, waist, hips and arms, as well as eight questions related to maneuverability. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and November 2008, and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 14.0 statistics program. The One-way analysis of variance was performed to comparatively analyze the differences among the products from the seven manufacturers. Post-hoc tests were performed based on Duncan's test for the criteria that displayed significant differences. The results were summarized as follows. Fit evaluations were performed for the size 88 formal jackets from the seven manufacturers. All items, except the center front line, displayed significant differences at p<0.05 or higher among the manufacturers. The age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and hip areas severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given developed pattern design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.639-651
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• 2020

This study utilized data to classify and characterize the body types of plus-size adult men aged in their 30s and 40s. Diversity is an important factor in the era of inclusive design, and discussion about size diversity to include the plus size should be accommodated. Data from 493 adult men classified as obese (with a World Health Organization criterion ≥25 BMI) were used for the analysis. The results of the study are as follows. Six independent factors were extracted using factor analysis for cluster analysis, which were then classified into five types. Type 1 (29.01%) was identified as body type I with the smallest degree of obesity. Type 2 (15.4%) was identified as body type Y with wide shoulders and a thin waist. Type 3 (14.2%) was the largest body volume (body type O), while the fourth (19.27%) identified as body type H has a large height and upper body. Lastly, type 5 (22.11%) has a long lower body and a slim abdomen, referred to as body type X. This study presents a basis for the development of various clothing sizes utilizing the body shape characteristics of plus-size men in their 30s and 40s. Follow-up research is needed to develop patterns for plus size men and to design various products.

• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.77-94
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• 2010

It was the era, from 1876 to 1910, that some dramatic changes, including an influx of foreign dyes and the beginning of the modern dyeing manufacture, happened in Korea. This paper explores what dyes were sold in the market in this period, who was the main seller of the goods, and how the dyers produced their products. A wide range of natural dye stuffs coexisted with the various kinds of aniline dyes, alizarin dye and synthetic indigo in the market. Coloring materials had been sold by hwapi-jeon, a group of official merchants who acquired a privilege of monopoly from the government. However, the dyes were also traded by sang-jeon and yakguk merchants in the nineteenth century. Most of the synthetic dyes sold in Korea were produced in Germany or in Japan later, and imported in large amount by Chinese, Japanese and German merchants. Yet there also existed Korean merchants and peddlers who sold the goods to the local consumers. Dyers were male and female who belonged to the middle class. They received the orders and payments from the government or merchants. Not only did they dye textiles, threads, cotton, paper and leather, but they also redyed clothes. Indigo dyers were differentiated from other dyers. Modern dyeing manufacture, which was presumably forced to keep pace with the productivity of the weaving process, appeared in the 1900s. It was a branch of the modern weaving manufacture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.249-262
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to contemplate evening dress in contemporary fashion, thereby to analyze aesthetic characteristics of evening dress. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey of evening dresses, and to conduct a case study of survey of fashion photographs covering $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}t$-porter design products from 2000 to 2007 presented by Valentine. Based upon the historical survey, there are five representative styles in evening dress. Flapper chic looks could be characterized by frequent usage of sleeveless straight silhouette with long or mini hemlines, expressing sensuality, luxury, and ethnicity. Satin Siren looks were characterized by bias-cut, slim, long silhouette, expressing sensuality and luxury. Feminine Ideal looks were characterized by hourglass silhouette and decolltage with feminine details such as bow, pleats and frills, expressing historicism, luxury and sensuality. Freedom and fantasy looks were characterized by ethnic details or modern silhouette with transparent, printed materials, expressing ethnicity, sensuality, and luxury. Finally, postmodern glamourous looks were characterized by body-conscious silhouette with transparent, shiny, or stretch materials, expressing sensuality, experimentalism and luxury.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study investigated the store switching behavior of fashion stores targeting college students. A random sample of college students completed a questionnaire that contained measurements of store property, relationship quality, switching intent of store, preference of on/offline store, purchase of brand/non-brand product and monthly clothing expenses. The factors extracted as switching behavior of on/offline fashion store are store property, relationship quality and switching intent of store. Dimensions of store switching behavior in online shopping mall is revealed to be composed of diversity/ easy to search, store reliability, home page layout, sales promotion, reliability, commitment and switching intent of store. Also those of offline store is revealed to be composed of store comfort/salespeople service, product diversity, store location, product price, reliability, commitment and switching intent of store. The significant differences were found between store switching behavior of college students by preference of on/offline store and purchase of national brand/non brand. It is expected that this results can be used as a basic material for further study and setting up the fashion retailing strategies in fashion store for selling non brand products.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to develop questions for fashion design development, by applying 7 elements of the scamper to the fashion design elements, and to present a scamper checklist of fashion design elements, and item structures. In this study, the scope of research was limited to clothing design among various fashion products, and among various design development stages. Fashion design development focusing on design sketching, was limited to the research scope. The research method was based on an empirical study that derived scamper questions through FGI (Focus Group Interview), consisting of 5 fashion experts. Fashion design elements applied to development of scamper questions consisted of silhouettes, constructive lines, structural details, decorative details, patterns and textures of fabrics, and item structures, derived by applying these elements to the individual 7 elements of the scamper: substitute, combine, adjust, modify, put to other uses, eliminate, and reverse. Results of the study included 7 questions for substituting, 8 questions for combining, 6 questions for applying, 15 questions for modifying, 4 questions for putting to other uses, 4 questions for eliminating, and 7 questions for reversal. The scamper checklist for fashion design elements and item structures drew to 5 lists of silhouette variations, 7 lists of constructive line variations, 11 lists of structural detail variations, 10 lists of decorative detail variations, 11 lists of fabric variations, and 9 lists of structural modifications of items.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.94-104
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• 2018

The objective of this study was to develop a wearable systems that protect users, based on sensors that are easy to use, from accidents caused by harmful gases in the operator's poor working environment or the risk of ultraviolet rays during outdoor activities. By developing smart wappen with Light Emitting Diode (LED) light alarm function including UV sensor and gas sensor and central processing unit, systems that are applied to daily wear and work clothes to explore the possibility of user-centered, harmful environment monitoring products in real time were proposed. Each sensor was applied to sportswear and work clothes and the wappen system consisted of lightweight and thin form as a whole. Wappen to cover the device had one sheet cover on the front and another cover from the inside to form a sandwich like formation. Wappen was made in the same form as regular clothes that doesn't damage the exterior then a removable wappen system was developed using Velcro and snap methods to enable the separation of device or the exchange of batteries. De-adhesion method can occur in two ways, from the outside and from the inside, so the design is selected depending on the application. This study shows the significance of the development of sensor-based smart clothing, in that it presented a universal model for users.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.139-151
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• 2019

This study intends to present the directions for effective up-cycling design using Marquage painting through analysis of trends and the formative characteristics of fashion products. Research was conducted through a literature review (published papers, books and web site contents). Cases were analyzed by examining the contents of web sites of global luxury brands, representative workshops, and social network sites (SNS). The results of the study are categorized as follows, First, Marquage paintings are continuously used by global luxury brands and have developed as an expression of self-ownership and the personalization of one's identity. Second, fashion brands use Marquage painting as a customized service for sales. On the other hand, Marquage paintings are used as a kind of up-cycling to present old goods as brand new ones. Third, the patterns used in Marquage painting were classified into five types: geometric patterns, logo patterns, character patterns, lettering patterns, and art patterns. Moreover, formalization by Marquage patterns is represented by identification, customization, and up-cycling. Finally, to up-cycle the expressive features of Marquage- sustainability, scarcity, storytelling, and originality based on factors of up-cycling need to be reflected.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.524-537
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• 2019

The aim of this study was to explore the effect of combinations of diverse methods notifying price discounts (i.e., reference price, odd price, and discount rate signs) and the relationships among product attribute perception, discount perception, attitude toward product, and purchase intention of product. Experiments were conducted where 12 stimuli of different price discount information notifications regarding T-shirt advertisements were presented to 352 informants. The results showed that notification of each type of discount information increased discount perception, whereas no effect due to the size of letters used in the discount rate notification was found. As more price discount information notifications were used, discount perception tended to become stronger. The results of ANOVA analysis show that both product attribute perception and discount perception affected attitude toward the product. In addition, product purchase intention was determined by attitude toward the product as well as price discount perception. Based on these findings, marketers may want to use a combination of methods of price discount notifications in advertisements to deliver price discount information clearly to consumers. Confirmation of discount information using multiple cues would help consumers to notice and perceive price discount information provided by retailers more effectively. Discount information is crucial for increasing both purchase intention and favorable attitude, therefore, diverse strategies regarding discount information presentations should be developed, tested and applied in the real world of retailing.