• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.61-69
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• 1991

In order to investigate the comfort properties of aerobic wear with different materials, the physiological responses, subjective wear sensation and microclimate were measured. The experimental garment were all-in·one type with half·length sleeves made of cotton/ polyurethane and nylon/ polyhrethane fabrics. The conditions of the experimental room were controlled to maintain two type of environ- ments, i.e. $25{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $60{\pm}5\%$ R. H. and $30{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $70{\pm}5\%$ R.H., Air velocity was maintained at 0.25 misec all the time. The results are as follows; 1) At $25^{\circ}C$, mean skin temperature and comfort sensation were not significantly different among 2 types of materials. 2) At $30^{\circ}C$, aerobic wear made of cotton/polyurethane fibers showed better pleasant tactile sensation than that of nylon/polyurethane fibers. 3) Under both environmental conditions, microclimate of two types of aerobic wear was not significantly different. 4) Among several aspects of wear sensations, tactile sensation was the most powerful factor to differenciate material differences of aerobic wear.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.295-303
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• 1989

This study is to measure the thermal resistance of 7 types of Parka of different materials with thermal manikin and to compare their effects on physiological responses & subjective wear sensations. Following are the results obtained from the experiments 1) From the thermal manikin experiment, i) As an outer layer, although not significant, water proof fabric was warmer than water proof-vapor permeable fabric. ii) In case of insulating material, down was better for thermal resistance than polyester wadding of the same thickness. Moreover, as the down was thicker, it had more efficiency in thermal resistance. However, the marginal efficiency of thickness was found to be decreasing. 2) From the male-subject experiments, i) Chest temperature, mean skin temperature & microclimate temperature showed the same results on thermal resistance as those of the thermal manikin experiment. ii) Only during rest periods, there was a significant difference among 5 insulating materials in the sense of microclimate humidity. The almost same conclusion was obtained from the above experiments. Even the outer layer did not significantly affect thermal resistance & subjective wear sensation, insulating materials had a significant influence upon them. But in case of 3.5 cm down, it gave less comfortable than that of the thinner. Therefore the optional one for the best comfort & thermal resistance among 7 combinatins is the outer layer of water proff-vapor permeable & insulating material of 2.1 cm down.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2011년도 제45차 학술발표회
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• pp.35-35
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• 2011

Phase change material(PCM) has thermal energy storage and been attracted attention. Latent heat of the organic PCM can keep maintaining temperature when the change of outside energy conditions influence to PCM. Thus, many researchers have interested to thermal energy storage ability and investigated to applications such as thermal storage of solar energy, bioclimatic building, icebank, medical application, clothing industry and so on. Among the many applications, investigation of the PCM in clothing industry is also important because the people has interest functional factor called health-care in the clothing. In addition, PCM can give them mild environment condition such suitable temperature control or humidity. To fabrics, the PCM has various methods such as microcapsule, padding and modified cross-section formation(Sheath/core). Sheath core PCM fabric has a better benefit of durability than other method. However, PCM sheath/core spinning is difficult. In addition, dyeing property is important to use clothing industry due to visual images. In this study, we investigated dyeing properties of Nylon/PCM sheath/core fabrics. Especially, we observed the relation between dyeing property and PCM including ratio. Various temperature and pH conditions were also studied to optimize dyeing properties as acid dye.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.18-31
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• 2022

Fashion is one of the main environmental pollution industries. To reduce pollution, much of the deadstock clothes are given a new value by being redesigning based on the designer's competency. This study aims to promote the revitalization of redesigning by analyzing and presenting hybrid design characteristics of the Sacai design collection, as a redesigning brand, and formative element characteristics of redesigning. A theoretical study using previous research on redesigning and related books and an empirical study analyzing the Sacai Collection were conducted. Based on the study results, there are four types of redesigning processes; recombination of heterogeneous clothing structure, reorganization by reversed function and position, reorganized composition by material processing, and mixing of heterogeneous materials. In the recombination of heterogeneous clothing structures, heterogeneous materials and structures coexist by combining the clothing components with other clothing elements. The second is the reconstruction by subversion. The third is reconstruction by material processing. The fourth is a mixture of disparate materials. This study has innovative redesign features from Sacai designs, and there are plans for a follow-up study that will analyze the work of another designer who is recognized for the excellence in redesigning.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.128-136
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• 2014

The virtual try-on technologies of the current level have limitations with material expression as well as some difficulties with commercialization. There are differences in simulation results and subjective evaluations perceived by consumers according to the types and physical characteristics of materials used in virtual try-on simulations. This study were to analyze the exterior clothing shapes and visual images from 3D virtual try-on simulations with materials whose drapability was differentiated and then test the accuracy of the expression of the drapability of the materials. The study carried out 3D virtual try-on simulations by selecting flared skirts as an item to best express differences in drapability along with five materials of different physical properties and offered some basic data for greater utilization of virtual try-on simulations by comparing and analyzing them with the exterior shapes and visual images of actual flared skirts. The analysis results of hemline shapes between actual and virtual try-on according to the types of materials showed no match among the quantitative items of exterior shapes factors. There were no significant differences in the visual images except for "soft" according to the simulation methods, which means that the items can serve as part of a scale for visual image comparison. It is necessary to reflect quantitative numbers regarding "drapability" proposed in the study simulation software and to continue to build a systematic database for virtual simulations by investigating and testing various materials.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.17-24
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• 2003

Objet, which showed up with the art of 20C, is now an important element giving a creative idea to fashion designers in modern times. The purpose of the study is to review how the objet technique was paid attention and recreated in the fashion, through the analysis of works, and the formative features of each technique for fashion, in order to identify the connection of arts and fashion, and the position of fashion as art. The techniques using object appeared in the 20th century fashion are as follows: First, papier-colle, which is adding printed materials onto the surface, is such a technique that adds cut-feeling materials to impose a new texture, or arrange again the cloth-cuts to create a different clothing from the existing one, which went to the extension of materials in the fashion. Second, collage of daily materials expresses directly and emotionally through direct presentation of the objets. Especially, collage of patch-work is reproduced into a new fabric depending on the objet used, giving a standing over the form. Third, ready-made which presents the material meaning only of the objet expands the range of objets which could be used in the fashion by introducing the daily materials having a meaning itself as a fashion. Forth, an attempt to approach to the objets of popular image by designed techniques come out in modern fashion as a graffiti look or a typography look, making the clothing itself an objet to transmit a message directly to the masses. Introduction of various objets and development of expression technique brought out the diversification of materials, and enrichment and extension of expression sphere, which resultingly spreaded the freedom of expression and progressed into the art sphere, making a direct motif to solidify its standing as a formative art.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.318-335
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• 2010

This study is to enhance the competitiveness of the domestic cosmetic industry and provide basic materials needed for a design idea by analyzing perfume bottles designed by Rene Lalique. The methods of this study are documentary research and demonstrative research. The documentary research considered the theoretical background with a focus on related domestic and international literature, previous research, and Internet materials. The demonstrative research extracted photo materials of the bottle designs of Lalique from domestic and international web sites along with literature that classified them into shapes, colors, materials, and patterns that analyzed the general characteristics and chronologic changes. The results of this study are as follows. The curve-oriented shape was common and multi-colors were used more frequently than a single color in the 1910's. Colorless-transparent glass and a flower patterns were used frequently for materials and patterns, respectively. Lalique reflects this style in his bottle designs because the Art Nouveau effect in the 1910's. In the 1920's, curved and straight shapes had a similar percentage. The use of multi-colors and one type of glass bottle increased versus the 1910's. Similar to the 1910's, a flower pattern was used most frequently. This suggests that Lalique was influenced by the established Art Nouveau and was also interested in the Art Deco style, In the 1930's, an organic curved shape was common. Unlike the 1910's and 1920's, a single color was more common than multi-colors. The one type of glass bottle and a geometric pattern were common for materials and patterns, respectively. The Art Deco style was reflected in the bottle design of Lalique in the 1930's.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.208-225
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify trends in modern Korean clothing design through investigation and analysis of the types and respective characteristics of silhouettes, colors, materials, patterns, and decorations present. To this end, research methods such as literature research and content analysis through case study research were used. The results of the wedding magazine data analysis were largely classified by design element and based on such, the conclusions are as follows. First, in the analysis of silhouettes, the appearance rate of traditional items decreased over the selected period and that of modified items increased. Second, among the same colors, adjacent colors, proximity complementary colors, contrast, and other harmonies, adjacent color harmonies showed the highest rate of appearance. Third, the cases where the same materials were used for the top and bottom elements showed a similar appearance rate as those where different materials were used. It was also concluded that traditional materials are being replaced by modern materials. Fourth, regarding the arrangement of patterns, the appearance rate of the absence of patterns gradually increases. Fifth, there were more case of decorations than those of none. This study made it possible to grasp the changes in trends of modern Korean clothing from 2011 to 2020 and provide basic data for the development of the Korean clothing market industry.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.15-30
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• 2001

The purpose 7f this study is to investigate the change of the ideal beauty of human bodies and the related clothing form designs from the ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period in the aspect of optical illusions effects to achieve the ideal beauty so that we can accumulate the knowledges for the modern clothing form design and the related optical illusion effects. The scope of this study is limited to the female body forms and female dress forms. The analysis on the optical illusions in the dress forms of the various period relied on the literatures and some representative photographs and figures. The important results are as follows : 1. In the body Priority type designs of Egypt, Greece and Rome, the natural Beauty of human bodies was represented by H type silhouett, the smooth and transparent drapery materials were used with radiant line pleats resulting in slant optical illusions. 2. In the clothing priority type designs of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Romantic Period, manteau, cotehardie, hennin and poulain were used to emphasize long arms and legs, high waists, belly curves and large heads resulting in optical illusions of vertical emphasize. Also long train, farthingale and panier were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in the optical illusions of Titchener alld Lipps. Large and complex patterns showed the optical illusions of Aubert. 3. In the clothing priority/body concealment type of Byzantine period, thick materials with precious gems and voluminous silhouettes were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in optical illusions of materials.