• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.752-765
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• 2022

Clothing, as a signsystem, implies many different meanings according to different circumstances. Korean fashion designers' designs also imply various meanings. Therefore, the purpose of this study is the exploration of Korean fashion designers' design characteristics through Greimas' Semiotic Square. As sublimity is the most representative characteristic of modern fashion design, this study discusses the in-depth aesthetic meaning innated in Korean fashion design through the semiotic square proposed by Greimas. To fulfill this goal, Korean fashion designers were sought after on the internet; consequently, four Korean designers became subjects for the analysis. Their collections were analyzed according to predefined criteria adopted and modified from previous studies. Sublimity characteristics were applied to Greimas' and Floch's semiotic squares for further interpretation. Results of the study indicate that sublimity, which is typically found in Korean fashion designs, varies depending on different points of view. In terms of culture, this study discovered a relationship of contrariety between sublimity and beauty. This finding opposes the theory of Greimas' semiotic square, in which sublimity stands as a contradictory of the technician. According to the culture industry theory, suggested by Held, the technician is an implication of sublimity. Through a technician, sublimity may pose as a complementarity or implication of beauty. Finally, sublimity might substitute beauty as well; furthermore, it constitutes practical valorization in the semiotic square of Floch. Moreover, the artist present as a ludic valorization stands as a contradictory, while art, serving as a utopian valorization, enacts as a contrary.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.280-290
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• 2023

As consumers are increasingly shopping online for fashion products, their return behavior is also increasing. Regarding the factors affecting return behavior, this study explores the effect of the purchasing orientation considering returns that are derived from bracketing purchase behavior, monetary lenient return policies, and non-monetary lenient return policies. Additionally, this study examines the effect of monetary/non-monetary lenient return policies on return behavior, mediated by the purchasing orientation considering returns. This study was conducted through an online survey and 238 data were collected and used for analysis. Two research models were designed for each independent variable of monetary lenient return policies, and non-monetary lenient return policies, and the path of the research model was analyzed using Process Macro 4.0. The study found that the sub-dimensions of return policy - monetary or non-monetary return policies - had different effects on return behavior through purchasing orientation considering returns. Monetary lenient return policies had a positive direct effect on return behavior, and purchasing orientation considering returns mediated the effect of the monetary lenient return policies on return behavior. However, the non-monetary lenient return policies only positively and significantly directly affected return behavior. The findings of this study contribute to understanding consumers' purchasing orientation considering returns. Furthermore, from the effect of the return policy on return behavior, the results are valuable as they can help fashion marketers establish a return strategy.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.82-91
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• 2023

The children who are part of this study are compelled to wear masks at educational facilities for an extended period of time as they continue to be exposed to Asian dust, fine dust, and COVID-19. However, use of masks is currently causing them a lot of inconvenience. This study aimed to gather basic data for the development of a mask that is suitable and comfortable for children to wear. A total of 331 children aged 1 to 9 were investigated through their parents in terms of their lifestyle, mask wearing and purchasing status, mask preferences, mask inconvenience, and mask improvement. According to the survey on mask use, the proportion of children aged 1-3 years old and wearing ultra-small/XS masks, 4-6 year olds wearing small/S, and 7-9 year olds wearing small/S was the highest. More than 80% of children were wearing masks with a standard filter of KF80 or higher. The purchase criteria for children's masks were found to be excellent in terms of wearing comfort and meeting the filter standards. According to the survey on inconvenience of wearing masks, the majority of those surveyed expressed the need to develop children's masks of different sizes. Furthermore, they experienced various kinds of inconveniences from adult masks, such as the material quality and length of earring bands; it was deduced that these aspects need to be taken care of. The vertical folding type was the most popular in the mask design for children. Children have to wear masks for a prolonged period of time, but they are experiencing lot of inconvenience, which need to be addressed.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.28 no.10
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• pp.17-25
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• 2023

In this paper, we propose a lightweight deep learning architecture tailored for efficient text detection in fashion design sketch images. Given the increasing prominence of Digital Transformation in the fashion industry, there is a growing emphasis on harnessing digital tools for creating fashion design sketches. As digitization becomes more pervasive in the fashion design process, the initial stages of text detection and recognition take on pivotal roles. In this study, a lightweight network was designed by building upon existing text detection deep learning models, taking into consideration the unique characteristics of apparel design drawings. Additionally, a separately collected dataset of apparel design drawings was added to train the deep learning model. Experimental results underscore the superior performance of our proposed deep learning model, outperforming existing text detection models by approximately 20% when applied to fashion design sketch images. As a result, this paper is expected to contribute to the Digital Transformation in the field of clothing design by means of research on optimizing deep learning models and detecting specialized text information.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.568-577
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• 2023

This study examined how middle-aged female consumers' environmental consciousness influences their attitudes and ethical purchasing behavior toward RUR (recycling, upcycling, and reuse) knit products. The research employs a survey method, targeting 30-40 year old women residing in Seoul and Gyeonggi-do Province. On-line and off-line data collection were conducted. The following conclusions emerged through statistical analyses, including factor analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, and regression analysis. Firstly, respondents' environmental consciousness variables were classified into two factors, delineating high and low environmental consciousness clusters, demonstrating significant differences between them. Secondly, the high environmental consciousness cluster exhibited more positive consumer attitudes and ethical purchasing behavior towards RUR knit products. Moreover, it was established that environmental pollution consciousness and eco-friendly product purchase consciousness influenced environmental consciousness on consumer attitudes and ethical purchasing behavior. Lastly, the study confirmed that consumer attitudes mediated environmental consciousness and ethical purchasing behavior. In conclusion, this research establishes a meaningful link between environmental consciousness, consumer attitudes, and ethical purchasing behavior in 30-40 year old women. Environmentally conscious groups positively influence attitudes toward RUR knitted fashion and promote ethical purchasing behavior. Consequently, it is recommended that knit fashion companies prioritize environmental consciousness and eco-friendly products in their marketing strategies. Furthermore, diversifying the application of RUR knit products, coupled with eco-friendly production techniques, can amplify their appeal and utility, ensuring a positive impact on consumer behavior.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.123-136
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• 2024

This study aimed to assess the mobility and thermal comfort of personal protective equipment (PPE) among female healthcare workers, taking into account wearers' physique and PPE protection levels. A total of 16 participants (age: 26.3 ± 8.3 y, height: 161.5 ± 7.3 cm, body weight: 57.1 ± 11.0 kg, BMI: 21.9 ± 3.6), representing diverse body types, underwent four PPE conditions: L (Low_Plastic gown ensemble), M (Medium_Tyvek 400), H (High_Tyvek 800J with Powered Air Purifying Respirator [PAPR]), and E (Extremely high_Tychem 2000 with PAPR, Bib apron, and Chemical-resistant gloves). The mobility protocol consisted of 10 different tasks in addition to donning and doffing. The 10 tasks were repeated twice at an air temperature of 24.3 ± 0.1℃, 59±4%RH. Findings revealed a disproportionate relationship between PPE protection and wearer discomfort. Significant differences in clothing microclimate and total sweat rate were observed between the lowest (L) and highest (E) protection levels (p < 0.01), while distinctions among medium levels were inconclusive. Subjective evaluations favored conditions H and L over M and E (p < 0.05), indicating reduced heat, and humidity, increased comfort, and lower exertion. Instances of mobility discomfort, specially in the small body type group, underscored the need for a suitable PPE size system for Korean adult female medical workers. Furthermore, enhancements in gloves, shoe cover, and PAPR hood designs are essential for improving ease of movement and preventing hindrance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.215-231
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• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.179-189
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• 2024

This study aims to explore the influence of product popularity signals on purchase intention in China's open market, with a focus on understanding the interaction effect of fashion product types. The popularity signals were measured through sales volume and review volume. For the experiment, a 2 (sales volume: high vs low) × 2 (review volume: high vs low) × 2 (fashion product type: trend vs basic) factorial design was employed. The findings of this study are summarized as follows. First, sales volume and review volume, as signals of the popularity of fashion products, did not appear to have a direct effect on purchase intention. Second, the impact of fashion product popularity on purchase intention was found to be contingent on the type of fashion product. When purchasing trendy fashion products, purchase intention was found to be higher under low popularity conditions compared to high popularity conditions. When purchasing basic fashion products, purchase intention was found to be higher under high popularity conditions compared to low popularity conditions. These findings contribute valuable insights for developing marketing strategies that leverage popularity signals for fashion products in China's open markets. Furthermore, the study improves understanding of online fashion product purchasing behavior among Chinese consumers.

• Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.4-14
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• 2010

Collaboration strategies entail information sharing and other varied forms of cooperation that are mutually beneficial to the company and stakeholder groups. This study addresses the specific types of collaboration used in the fashion industry while also examining strategies that have been most successful for fashion companies and perceived benefits of collaboration from the customer perspective. In the present study we define fashion companies and brands as collaborators and their partners or stakeholders as collaboratees. We define collaboration as a cooperative relationship where more than two companies, brands or individuals provide customers with beneficial outcomes utilizing their own competitive advantages on an equal basis. Collaboration strategies entail information sharing and other varied forms of cooperation that are mutually beneficial to the company and stakeholder groups. Through collaboration, fashion companies have pursued both tangible differentiation, such as design and technology applications, and intangible differentiation such as emotional and psychological benefits to customers. As a result, collaboration within the fashion industry has become an important, value creating concept. This qualitative study utilized case studies and in-depth interview methodologies to examine customers' attitudes concerning collaboration in the fashion industry. A total of 173 collaboration cases were identified in Korean and international markets from 1998 through December 2008, focusing on fashion companies. Cases were collected from documented data including websites and industry data bases and top ranked portal search sites such as: Rankey.com; Naver, Daum, and Nate; and representative fashion information websites, Samsungdesignnet and Firstviewkorea. Cases were collected between November 2008 and February 2009. Cases were selected for the analysis where one or more partners were associated with the production of fashion products (excluding textile production), retail fashion products, or designer services. Additional collaboration case information was obtained from news articles, periodicals, internet portal sites and fashion information sites as conducted in prior studies (Jeong and Kim 2008; Park and Park 2004; Yoon 2005). In total, 173 cases were selected for analysis that clearly exhibited the benefits and outcomes of collaboration efforts and strategies between fashion companies and stakeholders. Findings show that the overall results show that for both partners (collaborator and collaboratee) participating in collaboration, that the major benefits are reduction of costs and risks by sharing resource such as design power, image, costs, technology and targets, and creation of synergy. Regarding types of collaboration outcomes, product/design was most important (55%), followed by promotion (21%), price (20%), and place (4%). This result shows that collaboration plays an important role in giving life to products and designs, particularly in the fashion industry which seeks for creative and newness. To be successful in collaboration efforts, results of the depth interviews in this study confirm that fashion companies should have a clear objective on why they are doing the collaboration. After setting the objective, they should select collaboratees that match their brand image and target market, make quality co-products that have definite concepts and differentiating factors, and also pay attention to increasing brand awareness. Based on depth interviews with customers, customer benefits were categorized into six factors: pursuit for individual character; pursuit for brand; pursuit for scarcity; pursuit for fashion; pursuit for economic efficiency; and pursuit for sociality. Customers also placed more importance on image, reputation, and trust of brands regarding the cases shown in the interviews. They also commented that strong branding should come first before other marketing strategies. However, success factors recognized by experts and customers in this study showed different results by subcategories. Thus, target customers and target market should be studied from various dimensions to develop appropriate strategies for successful collaboration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.135-158
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• 1994

The fashion industry of today is closely re-lated with the information activity. This study investigates now they take advantage of the fashion information by analysing some related fields including fashion design. Furthormore this study identify the factor which makes the design activity distinctive and predict and fu-ture trend in design. The purposes of this study through analysis are : to help find the way to facilitate the fashion industry and to develop the fashion merchandising in order to activate the re-cession of manufacturers and to improve competitiveness in the world market and to contribute to the academic achievement in the study of fashion merchandising. In the experimental approach the tasks of research are as follows: Research 1: The application of fashion infor-mation is discussed in terms of process and level. Research 2: The differences of the fashion design activities are captured on the basis of the characteristics of manufactures and fashion specialists and fashion information ac-tivities. The factors are identified which pre-dict and discriminate the results of fashion de-sign activities. The questionaire and interview were conduc-ted among women's clothing manufactures in Seoul and their fashion specialists in charge of merchandise development. The methods of survey were designed on the basis of theories developed so far and on he advice from the social scientists and fashion specialists. the methods were corrected and complemented through the 1st and 2nd preliminary investigations before their application For data analysis cronbach's a coefficient fre-quency percentage average standard devi-ation pearson's correlation coefficient were calculated and t-test F-test(ANOVA) Duncan's multiple range test regression and Discriminant analysis were conducted. The results of analysis throughout the experimen-tal studies were as follows: 1. The analysis of fashion in formation (1) the present application of information a. The source of information : Both the foreign and the domestic information came mostly from fashion journals magazines newspapers and other periodicals, the main source of market information was collected from the survey of popular items in recent years the data about the life-style of customers and their tastes for wearing were widely used as the information about consumers. b. The applicaton of information : The most widely used information was about fabrics. The foreign information was prefered on the whole. The domestic problems pointed out in this investgation were that the domestic journals showed the lack of specialty and the special organizations for fashion informatino were in urgent need. (2) The research of fashion information a. The various processes and levels of in-formation activities: Among the process of collection analysis and distribution the collec-tion process showed a good acheivement whereas the distribution whereas the distribution didn't. In levels of the systematic activities the acceptance of support and the utility of supported instruments the first indicated a high degree whereas the second showed lowest. b. The correlationship among subvariables : There was a significant correlation between the collection and the analysis process. The systematic activities revealed close relation-ship with the analysis process and the accept-ance of support with the distribution process. The close correlation was found between the utility of supported instruments and the analy-sis process. 2. The analysis of the fashion design activities (1) No significant differences were found in the design activities when the characteristics of companies were compared only. (2) According to the characteristics of fashion specialists the one with age experi-ence and high income showed rather good achievement but no significant differences were captured among sex department in charge title academic background education in abroad and field experience (3) The fashion information activities were strongly correlated with the design achieve-ment : The analysis process and the system-atic activity level had a great influence on the design activities. (4) In order to examine which cha-racteristics in (1-3) made it possible to pre-dct and discriminate the achievement in de-sign activities the Discriminant analysis was carried out. The results were as follows: the fashion information activities showed the highest discriminant rate. Next came the in-come level experience and age in that order Those four variables discrimated 37 from 50 who showed great achievement in design area (74%) and 51 from 83 in low achievement group (81%) Thus the total discriminant rate was 77.5%.