• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.137-149
• /
• 1993

The concept of style including the external form and internal meaning provides a useful structure to clarify the historical phenomenon on dress. The purpose of this study was to explore surrealism related to the external form and internal meaning and the stylistic change of surrealism through 1930 and 1988 according the linked solution proposed by Brodsky. The results were as follows; 1. In terms of double roots including the external form and the internal meaning on the surrealism of dress, first, the external form was founded to be that each objects having symbolic meaning was dislocated from its original place to dress. Second, the aspects of internal meaning intended to represent not rational and external world but irrational as well as to reveal other nature of object or dress itself. 2. The change of surrealistic style on dress was characterised as "linked solution" change theory than cyclical change theory through the historical data from 1930 to 1988 of documentary sources.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.24 no.5
• /
• pp.640-651
• /
• 2000

In this Paper we examined the clothing & ornaments of Egyptian gods greatly related to religion in a mode of every living through illustrated data of relics and investigated their differences and similarities by comparing the clothing & ornaments of gods with one of royal families. First of all, the crown of gods shows various forms in accordance with is roles and symbols. Second, the clothing & ornaments of male gods is significantly different from one of king in that for the most part they wore loin-cloth and girdle on sheath-skirt. Third, goddess was wearing the same sheath-skirt as queen. Fourth, kalasiris which king and queen wore is not almost founded in costume of gods. Fifth, the typical accessories in Egypt, that is, passiums, bracelets and rings are founded in the clothing and ornaments of all gods. Sixth, gods seems not to be dressed in sandals. Seventh, a mustache of king is appeared in a form of large and straight line, but one of god is appeared in a form of small and bended line. Eighth, lion tale ornament and fail are founded in the clothing & ornaments of male god mainly and a stick is founded in one of goddess. Finally, ankh which is representative of eternal life is an ornament only gods are wearing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.5 s.142
• /
• pp.649-661
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the inner meaning and outer from of the uniform from a historical perspective. As a research method, this study investigated the significance of the meaning and farm of the uniform in history with a focus on the classification suggested by a Japanese scholar, Okuhira Sitse, and analyzed them by design elements. In the theoretical study, the uniform was divided into formal, working and collective uniforms according to the purpose of wear. As results, the plasticity of the uniform was analyzed as the concept involving: authority representing the power and influence within the organization as a inner moaning; differentiation from the rest by expressing the culture and ideology within the organization; cohesiveness among the wearers as members of the specific organization and the binding nature in effect; reliable images to customers due to the appropriate form of dress related to the specific business and controlled self expression; and aesthetics characterizing a given era as a form of aesthetic pursuit. The elements of these inner meanings were translated to the outer form of functional practicality and simplified design, which appeared as the simplified' suit' in a female uniform in workplaces.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.4
• /
• pp.515-526
• /
• 2009

From traditional ceremony to science technology, origami was used as technique for artistic creativity and functionality based on formative characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive characteristics of functionality in fashion design using origami technique. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, fashion magazines, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In various fields of design, the category of the expressive characteristics was classified as efficient correspondence of space, compositive convergence of function, variable potentiality of form and human ergonomic optimum. In recent origami fashion based on functionality, the efficient correspondence of space was expressed constructive or decorative pocket design, using on clothing surface and varied design by lifestyle. The compositive convergence of function was expressed innovative connection of fashion items or non-fashion items and deconstructed classical clothing pattern. The variable potentiality of form was expressed control of form by irregular fold, dynamic metamorphosis by organic fold and creation of varied clothing silhouette. The human ergonomic optimum was expressed metamorphosis mechanism from two dimension to three dimension, suitable construction to physical ability and limit and organic form based on articular folding. The functional origami fashion means reflection of nomadic lifestyle, maximum of usability, pursuit of playful sensibility, creation of new body aesthetic and pursuit of technology and humanism. And the result of these study may be used for creative inspiration in fashion design because of unique characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.46 no.5
• /
• pp.927-943
• /
• 2022

This study explores the organic form generation method, which reflects the evolving biomimetic approaches converging in fashion technology and considers the characteristics of the organic relationship between the body and the clothing to be represented in contemporary fashion. A literature review on biomimetic architecture and design-related theory and a case study on biomimetic fashion were both conducted. Images, articles, and data related to biomimicry fashion and clothing, including the increase in virtual fashion cases around 2020, were analyzed based on the literature review. Biomimicry was used to derive interdisciplinary similarities in the organic morphogenesis principle, and the result was categorized as a network system, folds and unfolds, pneumatic structures, auxetic growth, and membranes. The biomimetic fashion characteristics, including externalization of the body's interior, expansion of the body structure and silhouette, body protection, independence from the body, and post-human expression through virtualization, were analyzed. Morphogenetic processes performed through biomimetic vision are expected to aid in generating research on the possibility of mass production or popularization in the future through various experimental technical studies.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.1 no.2
• /
• pp.148-153
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study was to manufacturing of personal dress form by replica method for draping. The objects were physical body and personal dress form of their torso somatotype. Comparing the measurements of Martin method and of sliding gauge method to examine the fitness of dress form. Dress form was found bigger than physical body. This was due to the transformation in processing that wrap a Suck-Go bandage and pack a polyurethane foam. On the basis of the result, manufacturing of personal dress form and foundation by draping, it was wearing done test on the physical body, through the procedure that investigate the possibility of usage and the manufacture of personal dress form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.9-16
• /
• 1985

This study was an attempt to survey, the relationships between women's self-concept and preference in clothing design. For the measurement of the self-concept scale was to select the somatic self and the social self which were explained Jung Won Sik's. The preference rate in clothing design consists of 58 items and 3 factors. (color, form, and texture). The questionnaires were administered to a sample of women (between the ages of 20 and 50) who lived in Seoul, Korea. The data for 658 respondents were analyzed by Pearson's correlation coefficient, $x^2$-test, F-test and Duncan-test. Through this study, the followings were founds: 1. There were significant relations between the self-concept and the preference for clothing color in value, chroma and warmth. 2. There were no significant relations between the self-concept and the preference for clothing form in line, silhouette and style. 3. There were significant relations between the self-concept and the preference for texture in touch, thickness, weight and luster. 4. There were significant differences in the preference of clothing design according to their age. That was largely devided into two groups; one's 20' s and the others 30's$\~$40's.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.163-178
• /
• 2009

Fashion pictorials are recognized as another form of communication method beyond the concept of simply providing information or being artistic photography. Therefore, it is believed that there is necessity to know methods of making a strong impression on people's conscience by effective usage of various presentation techniques that can be used in fashion pictorials. This research studied characteristics of closed form and open form of Wolfflin's precept of forms presented in scene construction. Depaysement technique was classified into three classes which are alien transportation of a part, deformation and ambivalence of an image through literature review of depaysement presentation technique. After studying the concept and characteristics of narrative applicable as the open form, Annie Leibovitz's "Alice's Adventures in Wonderland" published in an actual fashion magazine was analyzed as an empirical study based on the theoretical research. Through this study, potential of applying depaysement technique as a presentation technique of closed form and narrative as a presentation technique of open form on fashion pictorials was identified. Factors that infuse creativity and achieve uniformity in producing fashion pictorials were shown through analysis of actual fashion pictorials.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.2 no.4
• /
• pp.325-330
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate if there were any differences between fashion models and female college students' body cathexis and to examine the perception of their body form and satisfaction of clothing fit according to height, weight and body type. For this study 378 people, including 113 fashion models and 265 female college students were analyzed. Means, t-test and ${\chi}^2$-test were used in data analyses. Significant differences were found between fashion models and female college students' body cathexis. For instance fashion models were more positive about their bodies especially concerning height. Fashion Models and female college students differed significantly in perception of their body form according to weight and body type. Perhaps they have another criteria. Fashion Models and female college students differed significantly in satisfaction of clothing fit according to weight and body type. The taller and Thinner, The higher satisfaction of Clothing fit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.4
• /
• pp.15-30
• /
• 2001

The purpose 7f this study is to investigate the change of the ideal beauty of human bodies and the related clothing form designs from the ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period in the aspect of optical illusions effects to achieve the ideal beauty so that we can accumulate the knowledges for the modern clothing form design and the related optical illusion effects. The scope of this study is limited to the female body forms and female dress forms. The analysis on the optical illusions in the dress forms of the various period relied on the literatures and some representative photographs and figures. The important results are as follows : 1. In the body Priority type designs of Egypt, Greece and Rome, the natural Beauty of human bodies was represented by H type silhouett, the smooth and transparent drapery materials were used with radiant line pleats resulting in slant optical illusions. 2. In the clothing priority type designs of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Romantic Period, manteau, cotehardie, hennin and poulain were used to emphasize long arms and legs, high waists, belly curves and large heads resulting in optical illusions of vertical emphasize. Also long train, farthingale and panier were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in the optical illusions of Titchener alld Lipps. Large and complex patterns showed the optical illusions of Aubert. 3. In the clothing priority/body concealment type of Byzantine period, thick materials with precious gems and voluminous silhouettes were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in optical illusions of materials.