• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.83-98
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find out the orientations and characteristic in clothes buying of each age group of elderly women, based on the actual self-image and the ideal self-image of clothing. Grasping the diversity of their clothes' buying orientations will be helpful in making a better merchandise production planning for apparel, and in launching new brands into the market. The study will also provide useful data in developing sales strategies which enable to supply goods that meet consumers' needs and tastes in the quality market, and consequently will help to classify the market. Samples were 488 women of 55 and over, dwelling in Pusan Metropolitan City. The data was analysed by using MANOVA, ANOVA, and the Cronbach's $\alpha$ reliability was also applied. The conclusions based on the theoretical background and the result of questionnaire surveys were as follows: 1. The order of priority of buying orientations based on clothes's actual self-image was 'practicality', 'cautiousness' and 'economical effectiveness' without regard to age. The items that showed the significant differences in 50's were 'cautiousness', 'experimentation', 'fashion-consciousness' and ostentatiouness, and in 70's were 'economical effectiveness', 'experimentation', 'impulsiveness' and 'environmental friendliness', and none in 60's. 2. The order of priority based on clothes' ideal self-image was the same as that of actual one, and there was no significant difference between age groups.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.35-50
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• 2019

Modern family culture manifests various different social phenomenon due to shifts caused by increased societal response to industrialization in our country. It is noted that as our lifestyle patterns have shifted from being work-oriented to family-oriented, by focusing on the trend where there is an increase in families enjoying hobby and leisure activities together and where families go shopping together, I attempted to propose various different family-look' designs. In this research study we designed and planned family normal clothes designs that are required and desired for family gatherings and family events, and these designed were produced using 3D virtual clothing design software technology. The research method used the formative features of natural plants and textiles containing a symbolic motif as an element of design, and the creation of family formal clothes were designed and planned based on the method. The development of family formal clothes designs was implemented using CLO 3D virtual clothing design software. Because utilizing 3D virtual clothing design software enables prototyping various types of designs, silhouettes, fabrics and textiles, and color schemes etc. in a short amount of time, it was possible to utilize an advantage from using the software as leveraged to propose designs with a strong symbolic motif and symbolism . Also, by confirming and examining the strengths and weaknesses of the design process when using CLO 3D, It can improve the utilization of IT technologies, and this study aims to provide that efficiency.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.185-198
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to obtain information necessary for the development of patient clothes that can reduce physical fatigue of caregivers by quantitatively measuring the muscle load and fatigue. The patient clothes used in this study can be broken down into three types: A type (back center zipper open suit), B type (top-to bottom separated patient clothes), and C type (front zipper open suit). The EMG measurement sites are as follows: hand muscle (brachioradialis), upper arm (biceps, triceps), shoulder (anterior deltoid, medial deltoid, posterior deltoid, upper trapezius), and waist (erector spinae); additionally, the EMG signals were measured. Through this experiment, muscle load, muscle energy consumption, and muscle fatigue generation tendency were analyzed. The results of the study revealed that the C type patient clothes required the most strength in the muscles of the shoulders, upper arms, hands, and back when being put on and taken off compared to other patient clothes. The A type clothes required a relatively large force in opening the zipper. In terms of muscle energy consumption, B type generally called for more strength when it came to the zip-up and putarmsup motions. With regard to the cover the body and put legs/hips up motions, C type used the highest amount of muscle energy, whereas A type used relatively little energy. In terms of the occurrence of muscle fatigue during the putting on and taking off of the patient's clothing, there was a difference in the area and degree of muscle fatigue in the A, B, and C types, and there was also a tendency for muscle fatigue to occur when performing repetitive movements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.16
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• pp.221-229
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• 1991

This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.237-260
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• 2000

According to the study of Jik-Ryoung(直領) consulting chronicles of the Chosun Era, Jik-Ryoung had been worn for various uses as official outfit, ordinary attire or clothes for the celebration of their coming of age, wedding ceremonies, funeral rites, and religious ceremonies, etc. from the beginning to the end of the Chosun Era. The conclusions are shown briefly as follows. 1. There are several terms of Po(袍) related to Jik-Ryoung in the chronicles under the name of Jik-Ryoung Ui(直領衣), Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung(衣撒直領), and Jik-shin(直身). Jik-Ryoung Ui is the other name of Jik-Ryoung that they called it when it was used for funeral rites and religious ceremonies. The chinese Ye-Sal(曳撒) was called the Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung in Korea, but this is different with Jik-Ryoung regarding its divided up and bottom style. Jik-Shin is almost same as Jik-Ryoung. 2. During the latter period of the Chosun Era, we can find diferent frequency in use of the Jik-Ryoung. Jik-Ryoung was shown constantly in the cases of that ding, Chinese Prince and lower-level constantly in the cases of that king, Crown Prince and lower-level officials wore it for funeral rites and lower-level officials, artisans, merchants, humbles and slaves wore it for official outfit. Uses of the Jik-Ryoung increased for military officers'outfits, in contrast to decreasing of uses for ordinary attires of king, Crown Prince, and the commons, and official outfits of civil officials. 3. These different aspects mean the change of estate and role. For the basic four ceremonial occasions the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor memorial-, it appeared constantly. Therefore the social role had been maintained also by then. As an official garb, the role for official uniform of petty official maintained by the end of the Dynasty. But from the latter 1600's to the former 1700's, the roles for official garbs of civil officials and military officers decreased and increased respectively. Before the Hideyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, ordinary social clothes had orders by people's social status who wore them ; those were Dan Ryoung(團領), Hong Jik Ryoung(紅直領), Jik Ryoung(直領), Cho'l Rick(철릭) in the order named. After the war, various Po(袍), Shim Ui(深衣), Jung Chi Mak(中致莫), Chang Ui(　衣), Jang Ui(長衣), Ju Ui(周衣) and so on had been worn until the King Young Jo(英祖)·Jung Jo(正祖) period. In result, the social role of Jik-Ryoung was reduced as the uses decreased more and more. For a mourning dress, it had a same aspect as the case of ordinary social wear. 4. Considering the color, they used blue for the clothes for doing-up-the-hair ceremony, white for mourning clothes, and white, black for ancestor memorial ceremony clothes. On the official outfits of officials, dark blue and black were used mostly. And lower-level officials'clothes had white, red, and green on them. They used red and green for the plain dresses. 5. Examining the materials, clothes for the celebration of one's coming of age were made of high quality silks, Kwang Hwa Dan(廣禾緞). Also, they made clothes for funeral rites of rough and thick linen, and made clothes for religious ceremonies of linen and hemp. The official outfits were made of practical materials like cotton, hemp and ramie. Cotton, pongee and satin were used to make ordinary attire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.840-857
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• 2017

In 1995, the costumes were restored in an unknown woman's tomb at the Jeonju Lee's family cemetery in Gapyeong, Gyeonggi-Do, and there are currently nine items remaining. In this study, we first introduced these 9 relics to academia and analyzed the morphological characteristics of the costumes. We also estimated the time and person of burial compared with costumes unearthed from other burials. Jeogories (short jacket) are all four items. One of these items was unusual in shape, and the upper part of the seop (gusset) was wrinkled and shaped. This type of Jeogori appears only till the 1520s in other tombs. There are also two skirts, one of which is characterized by a superimposed pattern. The top and bottom / middle part of the skirt were rolled up, and the skirt, which was double-rolled up in this way, was first discovered. An analysis of the shape of Jeogori and skirt indicated that the person buried in the Jeonju Lee's family tomb was believed to have survived until the early 16th century. Based on these estimated periods, as a result of looking at the genealogy of Jeonju Lee's family, it was concluded that the tomb was probably a woman named Lee Geum Myeong (李金命) born in the mid-15C and died between the late 15C and the early 16C.

• Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.527-536
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• 2007

This paper proposes a 3D fashion design system that generates a 3D clothes model by using 2D patterns of clothes and drapes the 3D clothes model on a 3D human model. In the proposed system, 2D patterns of clothes are designed by selecting comer points of 2D mesh. After designing 2D patterns, a 3D clothes model is designed by describing the control points to be connected between 2D patterns. The proposed system reads a 3D human body model file and the designed 3D clothes model and creates a 3D human model putting on the clothes by using the mass-spring model based physical simulation. It calculates collision and reaction between the triangles of human body model and those of clothes for realistic simulation. Because the number of triangles is very large, the collision and reaction processing need a lot of time. To solve this problem, the proposed system decreases the number of collision and reaction processing by using the Octree space subdivision technique. It took a few seconds for generating a 3D human model putting on the designed 3D clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.62-86
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• 1970

A study on the upper garment of Korean women, JUORI The upper garment of Korean women. JUGORI, is an inherited mode from the ancient clothing style in the various aspects based on the particulars of Korean clothes. The ancient style of clothes is originated from KWAMDUI belonging to inhabitants of Northern Territory of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unicque mode of clothes has been much influnced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unicque mode of clothes has been much influnced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate of Korean penynsula. The changes of the pattern of JUGORI, in a word, is a sign of shortening tendency of size. This tendency of JUGORI is remarkably seen in the shortening of length and other parts are decreased in size. The JUGORI in the ancient age was fallen below the weist of woman, which is similar to Robe, and was worn with band. However, the length of the JUGORI has been gradually shortened, and therefore, GORUM took place of the band. The shortening tendency of JUGORI is seemed to be shown its sign in the initial time of its origin, because there are some evidences that the women in Sylla Dynasty, and this tendency has been much expedited during the period of Koryu Dynasty with influences of Monggorian culture (Won Lynasty of China) The oldest sample for data of JUGORI in nowaday is one the remains of Yi Dynasty, and this sample for data provides all the particulars of the modern pattern of JUGORI. The tendency of JUGORI had been continued even in Yi Dynasty, and at the end of the Dynasty, the clothes was shortened that the women felt inconvenient wearing it in the status of the shortened JUGORI which was even hardly cover the initial time of epoch of modernization induced from the Western civilization, and after 1920s and 1930s JUGORI become a larger tendency. This is a sing of revival of practical use and rationalization of JUGORI become a shortening tendency again, and the size is similar with that of early age of Yi Dynasty. Instead of these similarities, the particulars of modern JUGORI is weighing on much emphasis on curve beauty and expression of experior beauty. The reason is that, together with westernization of clothes, JUGORI became a special pattern of clothes as a traditional Korean women wears. The very thing explaining this pattern of JUGORI is the "ARIRANG DRESS". And there are some fashion using button instead of GORUM and half sleeve JUGORI for summer use which is regarded as a part of improved aspect of life in Korea. in Korea.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-150
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to explicate the contemporary concept of the term 'sportswear' by studying the history of sportswear tradition in America where sportswear was first established and developed. American sportswear originated from some functional clothes made for specific sports during the 19th century. Early in 20th century, there occurred many significant events in America while Americans were undergoing two successive world wars. First of all, due to the wars, women's role in labor force became so significant that their social status was enhanced remarkably. With economy growing every decade, the amount of leisure time for American people substantially increased and, therefore they could develop their leisure activity culture. All these changes made Americans demand the need for comfortable and functional clothes suitable for their changed way of life. In response to this demand, the sportswear tradition became mature due to the contribution by many creative All-American designers, most of whom have made their active contributions since 1970s. Now the sportswear, which used to be designed for specific sports, developed into casual wear in general with its extended definition. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for specific sports. Sportswear has now become more like a casual activity wear which all classes of people can enjoy in their life. Since the concept and scope of sportswear is extended to a great degree today, we need a new professional term to correctly express the extended nature of these contemporary clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.521-529
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• 2000

This paper proposed the sizing system for women's upper clothes in order to improve clothing fitness and raise the productivity. The sizing system was classified according to 5 body types and 5 age groups. The size intervals of the basic dimensions were established at regular intervals centering around their means. The size interval of stature was 8cm centering around 158cm and that of bust girth 4cm centering around 84cm and that of hip girth 4cm centering around 92cm. Frequency distribution on the size of upper clothes showed that the most frequent size were 96-96-150 in the longest-fattest type, 88-96-158 in the long-fatter type, 84-92-158 in the medium length-fat type, 84-92-166 in the Short-balanced type, and 76-88-158 and 80-88-158 in the medium length-balanced type. The number of the sizes of upper clothes, which had frequencies more than 5%, was 32 and each size was presented with waist girth, back waist length and sleeve length. The size system classified by age group had 22 cases in the early twenties, 15 cases in the late twenties, 21 cases in the early thirties, 19 cases in the late thirties, and 15 cases in the forties.