• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.85-94
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• 2010

Comparative analysis of marker efficiency in blouse patterns, based on different sleeve designs, was carried out. Sleeve designs used included set-in-sleeve, laglan sleeve, and epaulet sleeve. The two types of epaulet sleeves, A and B, are based on pattern arrangement methods of center back. Cloth and production conditions are the width of cloth, the number of marking pieces, and the direction for marking deployment. A blouse pattern saved to the PAD CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marker efficiency in different conditions. The results were as follows. On the whole, the marker efficiency of small pattern sized set-insleeve was higher than laglan and epaulet sleeve designs. It was also established that marker efficiency is dependent on cloth and production conditions. For small number of marking pieces, efficiency was higher in the condition of 110cm cloth widths compared with that condition of 150cm cloth widths. However the efficiency of large number of marking pieces was higher in the condition of 150cm cloth widths.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.303-309
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• 2006

This study intended to compare and analyze marking efficiencies of basic slacks, based on different cloth and production conditions, the width of cloth, the number of marking pieces and the direction for marking deployment and proposed an efficient marking method. The results were as follows. On the whole, the marking efficiencies increased with increasing cloth widths. In the case of small number of marking pieces, the efficiency increased with increasing cloth widths, while, for large number of marking pieces, there was no differences in the efficiency with the cloth widths. From the result of the comparison of the marking efficiencies with the number of marking pieces, it was shown that, in the case of small cloth width, the efficiency increased considerably with increasing number of marking pieces, while, in the case of large cloth width over two markers, there was no distinct effect of the number of markers on the marking efficiency. Thought there were some differences of the marking efficiencies with the marker directions, bi-direction marker was the most efficient marker, followed by one-direction for each size marker and one-direction marker.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.68-84
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• 2006

The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.