• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.20-34
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• 2010

This study is intended to suggest the characteristic of dress and its ornament introduced in terms of naturalized words on Korean newspapers and magazines published from the age of enlightenment to the Independence(1876-1945). First of all, naturalized words in that period(1876-1945) can be classified into words originated in Japanese, words originated in western countries and borrowed words came from Japan. Borrowed words which came from Japan are almost related to Japan's traditional dress like Gudu, Gabang, Kimono, Nemaki, Ebijahagama, Hagama, Sirusibanden, Doriachi, Dombi, Sarumada, Sseumeeri, Doriachi, and Mombbe. Borrowed words originated in western countries are like Frock coat, Bonnet, Necktie, Chapeau, Scotch, Homespun, Chamois, Skirt, Spring Coat, Ribbon, Silk hat, Panama hat, Handbag, Pajama, Shawl, Apron, Cuffs, Pocket, Handkerchief, Morning coat, Combination-one piece, Rain Coat, Burberry, and Permanent, etc. Borrowed words came from Japan is Lasa[raxa], jokki[jaket], Les[lace], Veludo[velvet], Bbanss[pants], Oba[overcoat], Meliyas[medias], Shass[shirt], Manto[manteau], and Sebiro[civil clothes]. As we can see from the result of research, borrowed words from the age of enlightenment to the Independence was because of its special social situation, Japanese imperialism, they are divided into real western words and words came from Japan or Japanese. In terms of items, a lot of words related to men's suit and women's dress, accessory, etc. It confirms that men's dress was westernized in the whole part compared to partially westernized women's one. A lot of words used at that period are now adapted to Korean language and became the foundation of words used in the current dress and its ornament area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.3
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• pp.29-46
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• 1980

The purpose of this thesis is to find out how the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and est had been influenced with each other. Analytical studies conclude the fellowing findings: 1) Upper garment styles in the feat Asia and the Egypt already highly developed in 28th century B.C. and show us the original style of the wrap-over to the left and that of the round neckline(曲領). Upper garment of the open in the center front shown in Babylonia in 18th century B.C. had been inherited to the caftan of the Hebrew and later succeeded to the Persia. 2) The tunic styles of the round neckline, the wrap-over to the left and the open in the cotter front, which were the basic styles of the upper garment, had teen widely accepted to the central Asia and the East Asia, as well as the Northern Europe, from the West Asia. 3) The styles of the wrap-over to the right originated from China since it had begun to show in the Shang Dynasty(商代, 殷代). 4) The East and the West costumes had been very much intermixed in 4th century B.C. Alexander the Great of Macedoria in 4th century B.C. expanded his territory to the central Asia and built up the Bacteria, when the most western civilization had been greatly transmitted to the Orient. Meanwhile the tunic being clad in the West and Central Asia began to be worn by soldiers in the period of the Warring States in China (326-299 B.C.) and afterwards worn even by civil officials since the age of the T'ang Dynasty of China. 5) The Upper garments of the open in the center front, the wrap-over to the right, the wrap-over to the left and the round neckline were found in Korea, which mean that the upper garment styles in the Ancient Korea were intermixed of the factors from the West Asia, the central Asia and the East Asia. 6) The styles of costume in the East Asia were influenced by the West Asia through the central Asia. The upper garment styles Europe were also influenced by the West Asia. Thus the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and West had been mutually affected with each other.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.1 s.215
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• pp.131-138
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• 2006

The yanggwan is a striped headpiece for civil and military officials worn with jebok, a costume for the royal ancestral worship ceremony, or jobok, a ceremonial costume for the courtier. It was called a jegwan when it was worn with a jebok. The geumgwan and jegwan are of the same style but the geumgwan has a gilded band and backside and the jegwan is mostly lacquered. The yanggwan was worn first with the jebok by the officials, both of which were received from the Chinese Ming dynasty in the 19th year of the King Gongmin's reign during the Goryeo period. The royal crown and court clothing system was two grades lower than the standard clothing code of the Ming dynasty of China. In the Joseon dynasty, the oyanggwan worn by the highest grade officials had five-stripes but was later replaced during the Daehan Empire by the seven-striped chilyanggwan used by Ming dynasty officials. Oyanggwans make up the majority of the surviving examples of these headpieces, with the exception of the six-striped yukyanggwan of Chung In-hak (1839-1919), the Minister of Justice, which originated in the Daehan Empire and whose owner is definitively known. The gilt portion of this yukyanggwan is finely engraved in relief with a bird, flower and tendril motif. The yukyanggwan is topped by a decorative bird ornament, called a jeongkkot. EDSS spectrum analysis of the gold plating reveals a composition of 51.32% gold and 10.34% silver. The yanggwan is composed of bamboo, mulberry paper and silk crepe. The black portions are lacquered. The individual yang is made with twisted mulberry paper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.55-66
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• 2014

Baeja(背子), which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun(沈秀崙, 1534-1589), a civil official, has a distinctive pattern. Two rectangles are connected by button knots on both shoulders and below the armpits, and surround the front and back of the upper body. Also, the back is shorter than the front, while the center-front is not opened. It also has a round neckline without a collar. Jeojuji(楮注紙), which is a traditional Korean paper made from mulberry bark, is put between the outer shell and lining of this clothing as an interlining. The purpose of this study is to perform a morphological feature analysis of the Baeja to examine its characteristics and name, and clothes with similar features, attire relic, pictorial and ceramic materials as well as precedent studies were used in the analysis. The Baeja, which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun, has the same pattern as Yangdang(裲檔), which was worn in the ancient northern region and China. Its composition and the way it was worn are very simple. Also, the shorter back length can be used as evidence that it was worn as everyday outer clothing, and not in a ceremony. Jeojuji, used as an interlining, made it easy to sew and maintain attire pattern and played a role of maintaining warmth. Therefore, this Baeja is presumed to be an outer clothing simply worn in the everyday life for convenience and warmth. In regards to its morphological feature, it was most likely a Yangdang in Joseon Dynasty.

• Advances in concrete construction
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.11-23
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• 2022

Conventional concrete needs some improvement in the mechanical properties, which can be obtained by different admixtures. However, making concrete samples costume always time and money. In this paper, different types of hybrid algorithms are applied to develop predictive models for forecasting compressive strength (CS) of concretes containing metakaolin (MK) and fly ash (FA). In this regard, three different algorithms have been used, namely multilayer perceptron (MLP), radial basis function (RBF), and support vector machine (SVR), to predict CS of concretes by considering most influencers input variables. These algorithms integrated with the grey wolf optimization (GWO) algorithm to increase the model's accuracy in predicting (GWMLP, GWRBF, and GWSVR). The proposed MLP models were implemented and evaluated in three different layers, wherein each layer, GWO, fitted the best neuron number of the hidden layer. Correspondingly, the key parameters of the SVR model are identified using the GWO method. Also, the optimization algorithm determines the hidden neurons' number and the spread value to set the RBF structure. The results show that the developed models all provide accurate predictions of the CS of concrete incorporating MK and FA with R² larger than 0.9972 and 0.9976 in the learning and testing stage, respectively. Regarding GWMLP models, the GWMLP1 model outperforms other GWMLP networks. All in all, GWSVR has the worst performance with the lowest indices, while the highest score belongs to GWRBF.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.237-260
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• 2000

According to the study of Jik-Ryoung(直領) consulting chronicles of the Chosun Era, Jik-Ryoung had been worn for various uses as official outfit, ordinary attire or clothes for the celebration of their coming of age, wedding ceremonies, funeral rites, and religious ceremonies, etc. from the beginning to the end of the Chosun Era. The conclusions are shown briefly as follows. 1. There are several terms of Po(袍) related to Jik-Ryoung in the chronicles under the name of Jik-Ryoung Ui(直領衣), Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung(衣撒直領), and Jik-shin(直身). Jik-Ryoung Ui is the other name of Jik-Ryoung that they called it when it was used for funeral rites and religious ceremonies. The chinese Ye-Sal(曳撒) was called the Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung in Korea, but this is different with Jik-Ryoung regarding its divided up and bottom style. Jik-Shin is almost same as Jik-Ryoung. 2. During the latter period of the Chosun Era, we can find diferent frequency in use of the Jik-Ryoung. Jik-Ryoung was shown constantly in the cases of that ding, Chinese Prince and lower-level constantly in the cases of that king, Crown Prince and lower-level officials wore it for funeral rites and lower-level officials, artisans, merchants, humbles and slaves wore it for official outfit. Uses of the Jik-Ryoung increased for military officers'outfits, in contrast to decreasing of uses for ordinary attires of king, Crown Prince, and the commons, and official outfits of civil officials. 3. These different aspects mean the change of estate and role. For the basic four ceremonial occasions the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor memorial-, it appeared constantly. Therefore the social role had been maintained also by then. As an official garb, the role for official uniform of petty official maintained by the end of the Dynasty. But from the latter 1600's to the former 1700's, the roles for official garbs of civil officials and military officers decreased and increased respectively. Before the Hideyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, ordinary social clothes had orders by people's social status who wore them ; those were Dan Ryoung(團領), Hong Jik Ryoung(紅直領), Jik Ryoung(直領), Cho'l Rick(철릭) in the order named. After the war, various Po(袍), Shim Ui(深衣), Jung Chi Mak(中致莫), Chang Ui(　衣), Jang Ui(長衣), Ju Ui(周衣) and so on had been worn until the King Young Jo(英祖)·Jung Jo(正祖) period. In result, the social role of Jik-Ryoung was reduced as the uses decreased more and more. For a mourning dress, it had a same aspect as the case of ordinary social wear. 4. Considering the color, they used blue for the clothes for doing-up-the-hair ceremony, white for mourning clothes, and white, black for ancestor memorial ceremony clothes. On the official outfits of officials, dark blue and black were used mostly. And lower-level officials'clothes had white, red, and green on them. They used red and green for the plain dresses. 5. Examining the materials, clothes for the celebration of one's coming of age were made of high quality silks, Kwang Hwa Dan(廣禾緞). Also, they made clothes for funeral rites of rough and thick linen, and made clothes for religious ceremonies of linen and hemp. The official outfits were made of practical materials like cotton, hemp and ramie. Cotton, pongee and satin were used to make ordinary attire.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.81-96
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• 2006

This study aimed to investigate the sociocultural phenomena which affected to clothing change in 1650-1900 and to examine the features of men's necktie in the western art. For this study, information about historic neckwear is obtained from the visual evidence of painted or engraved portraits, contemporary written sources. The covered area of this study was Europe mainly England and France. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Investigating the sociocultural phenomena which affect to clothing change through 1650-1900 and analysis of men's clothing and appearance. 2. Finding the changing characteristics of neckties including it's different types, shapes, knots, colors and materials and analyzing similarities and differences of neckties by the times. 3. Examining necktie as one of important and representative icons of male gender identity. The results of the study was as follows: 1. In 1660-1900, men's fashion was simplified in color and detail due to the influence of practical Puritanism and matured civil culture. And British men's fashion spreaded throughout whole European countries and get popularity. 2. In 1650-1720, there were band, cravat and steinkirk. And expecially cravatier, a expert custodian of cravats, was appeared in that period. In 1720-1800, there were stock, solitaire and cravat. In 1800-1850, neckwear were popularized and got various sizes and types up to shape and size of chemise collars. Black stock, scarf cravat and shawl cravat were popular and terms of 'necktie' were used for an certain neckcloth shape. And abundant literature for necktie were published thanks to the development of printing technology in that period. In 1851-1900, the leady-made neckties were spreaded and there were changes in shape, length, knot of necktie up to V-zone formed with shirt's collars and vest types. Neckwear was gradually evolving through four distinct styles, bow tie, scarf or neckerchief, Ascot and four-in-hand. 3. After the mid-l7th Century, as civil culture matured and splendid and extravagant colorful men's wear disappeared, British men's fashion spreaded throughout whole European countries and got popularity. The necktie become an essential ornamental accessory of men's fashion and one of important and representative icons of male gender identity.