• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 19th International Costume Association Congress
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• pp.40-43
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• 2001

Du-Dou was one of the Chinese costumes worn mostly by women and children. It is the equivalence of modern brassieres or under wear. While small in size, du-dous were popularly worn by many ethnic groups and in many regions in China. The embroidery on du-dous has attracted major attention recently, due to its functional and artistic aspects. The design, floral pattern, stitching technique, and color combination and distribution clearly demonstrate the practice of Chinese folk art and reflect the essence of Chinese life style. Among the three major ethic groups of Taiwan-the Fukiens, Hakkas, and Taiwan aboriginals, each group has its distinctive du-dou. The purpose of this study is to investigate and compare the similarities and differences of the embroidery on du-dou among the three ethnic groups in Taiwan, and furthermore, to make recommendations for the modern du-dous in the fashion industry.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.159-167
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• 2009

Based on instructions in the textbook "How to Construct Korean Costumes" which I authored, my university students were required to make Pungcha-Baji(Korean traditional pants for children) for one-year-old boys. While examining the students' construction, I found that the side seams of the vest and pants did not line up but were improperly twisted. It was found that the pants did not cover the child's backside because the width of the back was smaller than the width of the front when one of the side panels and the large center panel in the front was half the size of the hip and one of the side panels and the small panel in the back was four fifths of half the size of the hip. Although there were differences between the waist size of the pants and the bottom hem of the vest, the textbooks instruct that the amount of material and the number of pleats(i.e. 4 pleats) on the pants and the vest should be the same. Finding this mistake led me to investigate Pungcha-Baji construction in related textbooks. Thus with the textbook instruction, the side seams of the pants and the vest do not match and are improperly twisted. Hence, as a solution, the pleats should be made and adjusted after matching the side seams of the pants and the vest. The purpose of this study is to examine currently available Pungcha-Baji related textbooks and determine the correctness of their instructions and to ultimately provide correct construction methods for Pungcha-Baji pattern for academic purposes.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2015

This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2009

This study proposes the product development through an organic link with multi-faceted analysis on the archetype of traditional costumes culture. In order to find ways to develop cultural products, Jogakbo was selected, and the research result is as following. 1. Analysis on the types of Jogakbo products sold in the market shows that there are not only living, stationary, and fashion items, but also DIY packages. In terms of materials used, most of these Jogakbo products were made of fabric or mixture of different materials. These products displayed similar tendency by reflecting formative characteristics of Jogakbo. 2. This study analyzed the color, surface composition, material, manufacturing, and usage of Jogakbo. The rotor of Jogakbo is mostly composed of mono tone colors or Obangsac(five-element colors). The mono tone colors carries environmentally friendly meaning as it is using the natural color and Obangsac means harmony. Moreover, the surface composition of Jogakbo represents the expansion through connection and its material is also meaningful in that it is recycling. Manufacturing of Jogakbo has educational significance, fortune-wishing characteristics, decorative function, it also gives a gratification of handcraft. The usage of Jogakbo is a multi-(unctional article whose form is determined by an item that is held inside it. 3. Through the analysis on Jogakbo, this study presents the baby wear in relation to the ere-friendliness of colors, brooch sets using the surface composition, dresses using recycling fabric, children's educational instruments with educational significance, as well as multi-functional packages in regards to usage of Jogakbo.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권8호
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• pp.33-53
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• 2003

A Study on the color comparison of Korean Saek-dong and Italian futurist fashion It is generally recognized that the color scheme and its characteristics as a product of living culture are strongly reflected in clothing. This study concentrates on the color comparison of Korean Saek-dong which has been used in traditional Korean clothing and Italian futurist fashion which showed dynamic characteristics and brilliant colors. The purpose of this study is to investigate the external format, emotions, functions and meanings of the colors in Korean Saek-dong and Futurist fashion, and to find similarities and differences between them. The results of the study are as follows. The similarities between them are harmony of vivid colors like a rainbow, no-use of black color and expression of rhythm through repeated geometrical shapes. They have been used as festive costumes and have implied meaning of happiness and pleasure. The differences, in the external formats, are as follows. Korean Saek-dong has striped patterns including the color white, and has regular distances among the stripes. But, Futurist fashion includes luminous or fluorescent colors and metallic colors. In addition, it has repeated motifs of geometrical shapes and geometrically divided areas. While Saek-dong expresses Sangsaeng through the conceptual use of color, Futurist fashion shows simultaneity, speed and dynamics through spiritual functions of crossing and inter-penetration. In emotional aspect, Saek-dong expresses pleasure of children's mind and Futurist fashion expresses pleasure of city. In functional aspect, Saek-dons expresses a concept of ceremonial beauty, which is spiritual and symbolizes good auspices, holiness and sorcery. So it is used for ceremonial costume. But, Futurist fashion reflects the harmony of colors created from modem and urban images and shows the willingness and emotion of solving futuristic avant-garde, modernity, dynamics, transformation and bellicosity. So it is used for daywear. While Saek-dong represents succession of tradition, Futurist fashion represents resistance of tradition in cultural aspects.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.44-65
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• 2018

본 연구는 2015년 9월, 보물 제1879호로 지정된 동국대학교 박물관 소장 <희경루방회도(喜慶樓榜會圖)> 속 인물들의 복식을 고찰한 것이다. <희경루방회도>는 1567년 6월 광주목(光州牧) 관아의 희경루(喜慶樓)에서 개최된 동방(同榜) 계회(契會)를 그린 것으로, 방회(榜會)의 주인공인 관료 5인과 관아 소속의 향리(鄕吏), 아전(衙前), 나장(羅將), 조례(?隷), 악공(樂工), 여기(女妓), 동기(童妓) 등 다양한 신분의 남녀가 묘사되어 있다. 이들이 착용하고 있는 복식을 밝히기 위해 문헌자료와 복식유물, 회화자료 등을 활용하였으며 연구범위는 겉으로 드러나는 두식(頭飾)과 포류(袍類), 그에 따른 부속품류로 한정하였다. 현직에 있는 시임관료(時任官僚)는 사모(紗帽) 홍단령(紅團領)을 착용하였다. 그 외에 품계에 따른 품대(品帶)와 흑화(黑靴)를 신었을 것으로 추정된다. 현직에서 물러난 원임관료(原任官僚)는 말총[마미(馬尾)]이나 사(紗)로 싼 흑립(黑笠)에 홍직령과 도아(?兒) 등을 착용하였다. 향리는 흑죽방립(黑竹方笠)에 흰색 직령(直領)을 입고 도아를 띠었다. 고려시대에는 방립이 왕 이하 지식층에서 썼던 관모였지만 조선전기에는 향리의 관모로 전락하였는데 그 착용 모습이 <희경루방회도>에서 확인되었다. 아전은 흰색 직령에 흑립을 쓰고 도아를 띠었다. 나장은 조건(?巾)을 쓰고 철릭 위에 반비의(半臂衣)를 착용하는 것이 규정이었지만 <희경루방회도> 속 나장은 반비의를 착용하지 않고 조건과 철릭만 착용한 모습이었다. 또한 조례는 포(布)로 싼 흑립에 홍철릭을 착용하고, 악공은 소모자에 홍철릭을 착용하였다. 나장 이하 하속은 허리에 모두 청색 계통의 도아를 둘렀다. 여기(女妓)와 동기(童妓)는 주인공의 시중을 들거나 춤을 추고 연주를 하고 있었는데 여기들은 크게 부풀린 둥근 고계(高?)에 홍색 대요(臺腰)를 두르고 곧은 깃 또는 젖힌 깃의 황장삼(黃長衫)을 입고 허리띠를 둘렀다. 동기는 뒤쪽에 양 갈래로 짧게 땋아 내린 머리에 교임형 홍색 포를 착용하였다.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.