• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.977-984
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• 2013

This study classified the type of sole for female high school students and analyzed the characteristics of each type by the shape of the sole (plantar view) using 2D scan data. The data were collected from a foot anthropometry of 310 female high school students in Gwangju and Jeollanam-do. Left feet and right feet were measured indirectly by using flatbed scanner. The sole anthropometric measurements consisted of 24 items. The results of the investigation into the differences between left and right feet soles by the 2D measurements data indicated that there was no significant statistical differences in the length of items. The left sole had higher values than right sole in the width items and angle items; however, the lateral side of the right feet projected to the outside more often than left feet. In analyzing foot sole of female high school students, the shapes of sole were classified into three types. Type 1(41.94%), Type 2(36.77%), Type 3(21.29%). The most characteristic sole type for female high school students was Type 1. Type 1 referred to a narrow foot width with little or no curvature of the toe. Type 2 represented the longest foot, with foot width shown as a spacious and distinctive feature in width at the medial area of the foot. Type 3 represented the shortest and widest of ball width, gathered inside toe 5, and lateral side as the most projected among the three types.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.120-129
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• 2016

This study aimed to develop an optimal sizing system and a draping pattern for hip protector based on an analysis of anthropometric characteristics of Korean older women. A hip protector is a specialized form of pants or underwear containing pads along the outside of each hip. The 3D body scan data of Korean older women were analyzed to identify their anthropometric characteristics and a four-size system with 93% of population accommodation was developed by clustering analysis based on key dimensions derived from factor analysis. The sizing system consists of small/short, large/short, small/tall, and large/tall. A 3D physical model and hip pads were fabricated; then, a hip protector was draped on the 3D model and hip pads. The sizing system of hip protector was analyzed in terms of size and shape and a draping pattern was compared on back center, back side, front side, front center and pad. Lastly, the pattern deformation and clothing pressure were analyzed using the virtual clothing system CLO. Virtual system have disadvantage of not to suggest the objective value. In the future research the wearing comfort and impact absorption of the hip protector needs to be tested and then a hip protector design will be finalized by considering the hip protector's size, material, comfort testing results, aesthetic appeal, protection effectiveness, and practical utility of everyday use.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.702-712
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• 2008

The aim of this study is to develop Casual Hanbok design made of Hanji yarn textiles for New Silver generation women. The New silver generation is a coined word which has meaning of a newly silver generation and it is distinguished from pre-silver generation. New silver generation is a generation that is independent and given active role by their age groups and generational characteristic. The concept of silver generation was introduced from maturity market in Japan. This study was based on analysis about their preference of forms, colors, and materials of Casual Hanbok. The survey target were 270 female over age 50 living in Daejeon City. The analysis methods used frequency and percentage. The results were summarized as following. Although almost of them haven't worn Casual Hanbok, they had the positive recognition on wearing one. They preferred longer length jacket to traditional Korean style, shorter length of skirt. They also preferred the traditional sleeve shape and knotted buttons. On the foundation of this fact, 2 styles consist of 5 Casual Hanbok design items made of functional material - Hanji yarn textiles that have antimicrobial, deodorant, quick drying, far infrared radiation which are not harmful to health - for New silver women were suggested. One style was 3 items - blouse, vest, skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with activity by patch. The other was 2 items - jacket and skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with modern way by quilting. Lastly, these garments were evaluated by 13 experts, they were satisfied with 2 styles and all items. As this study were based on the Elderly women living in Daejeon city, it had the limitation on applying of preference styles to all the New silver generation.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.121-136
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to present a new research method of stage costume by designing and making the stage costume of Yean-GaeSoMoon(淵蓋蘇文) in Peking Opera Du Mu Guan (Korean; Dog Mog Guan, 獨木關). The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera didn't have the same rank system with real history costume and didn't have demarcation according to period and history. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that can inform spectators of sex, age, personality, position of characters. The pattern of decoration also symboled the personality and characteristic of the character. Yean-GaeSoMoon in the play wore green armour (Chinese; ru ying kao 綠硬靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), red mustache (Chinese; hong ran kou 紅髥口), crown (Chinese; da e zi 大額子), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴) and Xue RenGui wore white armour (Chinese; baikao 白靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴), hat (Chinese; za jin 扎巾). By historical materials, Yean-GaeSoMoon was a nationalist who uphold national sprit and the greatest hero of the age and a charismatic politician who combines literatural arts with military arts. Considering these reviews, defined the thema of his new costumes' image as "the flying bird which has three legs"(三足鳥), the bird which symbolized the sun and immortality in Koguryo fresco. On the basis of this image, presented three types of Yean-GaeSoMoon's stage costume. Yean-GaeSoMoon as the minister in the court wore black gown (Chinese; mang pao 蟒袍) of dargon pattern which symbolizes harisma who opening the heaven. He as the general who directs war wore red mantle (Chinese; dou peng 斗蓬) which symbolizes the blue dragon that soaring into the sky, as the officer who fights the enemy's general wore green armour (Chinese; gai liang jia 改良甲), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲) which symbolizes the flying Sward that blowing violently. By wearing these stage costumes, the image of Yean-GaeSoMoon could changed from the fierce general of minority race who likes to fight, to the Koguryo general who fights against enemy at the risk of his life for Koguryo's autonomy. Through this study once again we could realized that stage costume played very mportant part In outstnding the characteristic of actor in the Peking Opera.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2014

The costumes (including mask) of the first World Master series of The National Changguk Company of Korea, Achim Freyer's 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' is directly designed by Achim Freyer who was in charge of direction and stage design. The new form called Pansori opera is proposed for modernization of Korean traditional opera, it maintained the original form of music yet introduced play form of opera. The costumes and stage also promoted modernistic transformation while maintaining the original Korean form. The overall concept of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' costumes emphasizes comical effect by abstractness like childlike scribble. It expressed characteristic of characters diversely through exaggeration and expansion while maintaining original form of Hanbok, used surface of costumes as a drawing board, and created flat and geometrically transformed silhouette. The complicated characters was caricatured like everyone is doing mask play by using masks, and it still maintained sophisticated oriental color with modern application of five cardinal colors. It may seems it just mixed our traditional elements like a hint of humor, however, it could be known that it introduced various techniques in it to deliver new subject while maintaining the original form of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king'. From this study, open mind for our tradition and need for diverse attempt could be rediscovered and could also see the possibility to contribute on creating a Nation Brand of traditional performing art.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.82-92
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• 2015

This study classified the types of adult male shoulders through criteria which represent the characteristic of male shoulders important to jacket patterns. We selected 39 measurement items to provide information about Size Korea (2010) 3D bodice measurements. Collected data were processed with SPSS 20 for windows. Participants in the study were 1055 adult males, aged 20-60 divided into three age groups of 20-30, 40-50 and 60. Statistical tests (such as descriptive analysis and F-test) analyzed the data and ascertained the differences in ages. In a factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted for the classification of shoulder type's adult males. The factor analysis indicates 6 factors with 82.4% of total variance. The shoulder types for adult male were divided into 3 groups, flat shoulder (14.1%), normal shoulder (72%), and slope shoulder (13.8%). A total of 19.9% of 20-30 was included in the slope shoulder type, 15.8% of 40-50 was included in the flat shoulder type and 16.1% of 60 was included in the flat shoulder type. This study classified the type of male shoulder through criteria that represent the characteristics of elderly male shoulder to neck base circumference, shoulder angle and shoulder type. The follow-up study will proceed with elderly male neck and various measurement items around the shoulder.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.103-111
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• 2009

This study is to help make-up and coordination for image-making after analysis of facial color and shape of elderly women. The data was analyzed 55-75 years old 212 elderly women's face color and pictures by means of SPSS 12.0 statistics package. On the basis of the colorimetric data on face by Minolta CM2500D, this research considered the analysis of facial color, patternization of facial color and its analysis by age group; for the analysis of facial shape, this research patternized facial shape and analyzed its characteristic using both contour-based facial shape analysis and Kamata facial shape analysis. As for facial color, it was found that the lower age bracket has bright and reddish face, looking fine, while the higher age bracket has a conspicuously yellowish face, looking bad. The community of facial color is classified as 3 types and it was found out that the facial color of the subjects belonging to Type 3, whose L value is the largest, looked the brightest; the face of the subjects belonging to Type 2, whose a value is the largest, was much tinged with red, and the face of the subjects belonging to Type 1, whose b value is the largest were tinged with yellow. According to the analysis of facial shape, there appeared oval & long forms in the classification by contour, while there appeared a lot of downward-directed power and inner-directed power in the classification by Kamata, which is believed to reflect the phenomenon that their chin line becomes roundish and the facial length also tend to be longer due to aging.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.389-393
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide beauticians with the fundamental material for them to use effectively heat permanent wave and satisfy their customers. It carried out an experiment with hair of a woman in her late twenties to investigate the change of physical and morphologic characteristics by its water content when performing heat permanent wave. It evaluated the water content as 0g, 1g, 2g, 3g and 4g respectively when performing the heat permanent wave on hair, then it compared and observed the wave type, tensile strength and elongation for its physical change also observed the morphologic change by scanning electronic microscope and transmission electronic microscope. The result of experiment on the physical specificity revealed that the wave was the most ideal when the water content was 2 g. The material with much water content made wave but the result was not satisfied. In the case of hair with water content of nearly 0g didn't make wave. In terms of tensile strength and elongation, the tensile strength was generally reduced as hair was damaged, on the contrary, the elongation was increased. It observed the change of morphologic characteristic and got the result that the damage on hair cuticle was deepen as its water content was decreased. It also showed the result that damage happened on hair cuticle more than hair cortex with the observation of fine structure on hair section by transmission electronic microscope. Generally chemical treatment damaged hair. Under consideration of this aspect, the ultimate goal of this thesis is to minimize the damage of hair caused by chemical treatment and get the satisfaction on the hair style. The result of experiment presented that the hair showed the best result when its water content was 2 g.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2019

The sleeve is closely connected with activity in terms of costume. As a kind of overcoat, Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty is short-sleeved or sleeveless. Dap-ho, with simple sleeves is convenient for layering and taking off and since it is easily adjustable using a gusset, a slit, or coat string, and this can be applied to layered look-related designs. This study aims to suggest a design item, which sustains the existence of traditional costumes and facilitates diverse layered looks and co-ordination, using the formative elements of Dap-ho. For this study, theoretical backgrounds and relics of Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty were analyzed, based on the previous studies, ancient literature, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and relics preserved in museums. The analysis targeted nine relics that show the birth and death years and the constructive changes in shapes, colors, materials of Dap-ho. Formative elements of Dap-ho were applied to the designing and the manufacturing of clothes for middle-aged women in their fifties and the research conclusions are as follows. First, from a morphological perspective, the silhouette, gusset, slit, and the indirectly attached coat string of Dap-ho are good to be used as various design items for covering the body shapes of middle-aged women, and the short-sleeved or sleeveless type is convenient to be layered. Second, when it comes to the material, it is possible to emphasize a traditional image and practicality at the same time by mixing and matching the Hanbok cloth and cotton. Third, in relation to the colors, the coexistence-based color arrangement method considering the theory of Yin and Yang can be applied to modern clothes and this makes it possible to express a traditional image in a harmonious way.