• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.853-863
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• 2000

This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as follows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio-Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing related study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.395-406
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• 1996

This article aims, by analyzing structurally the codification of dress sign in Korean society, the signifying system of the codes and their message communicated, to make clear a signifying structure that would be codified through the relationship between abstract concepts and real condition of dress. I used the semiotic theory of Ferdinand de Saussure′s conception on structuralismly the codification, cultural semiology of Roland Barthes and Myung-Sook Han′s formula of dress structure as tools analyse may objective of wedding dress of folks in Choson Dynasty, which has been successive our traditional Korean wedding dress. My results of the study are : The procedure of wedding ceremony in Choson Dynasty was presented in texts like Juga-garye, Sarye-peonram and Kukjo-orye, its dress system has been more emphasized on language, and aspect of social system, than parole, one of individual realization. In addition, the meanings of marrage such as "Oneness of bride and bridegroom", "Mixture of two sexes", "Blessing of good luck", were included in the signified like the style, pattern and color of the wedding dress, and specially, pattern and color, the articulated morphemes, was emphasized, When we combinated terms of dress in Choson Dynasty with syntagmatic, regarding their list as paradigmatic, it will signify a wedding dress, and according to combinating ways, it amy be divided as sign of dresses of bride and bridgeroom by sex or king, gentry and common people by class. Wedding Dress in Choson Dynasty = [{ODx(U/Dxu/d)}+AC·H·FW].

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.389-400
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• 1997

Name and change of style of Chopni were inspected to understand transformation of Chosun costume. During Chosun era Chopni had two significant roles(general) daily clothes and Yungbok; prior to the mid-Chosun it was largely used as daily clothes but after the mid-Chosun it was mainly used as Yungbok, In the case of daily clothes Chopni was utilized as under-coat among various coats and had the name of Chopni symbolizing function of clothes. In the case of YUNGBOK it was used as outer clothing of military men had the name of Cholik symbolizing form of clothes. These facts represent that emphasis was placed on beauty in the case of YUNGBOK to confer ceremonial meaning as outer clothes. In transformation of costume examining by change of Chopni we can see that name and style are changed with role of clothes That is when clothes is used as under such as under-coat name and style mainly represent function whereas they mainly represent beauty when used as outer clothes such as YUNGBOK In addition change of role might be considered as an independent variable which changed name and style dependently. That is change of style produced change of name and time lay between change of style and change of name was found to be about 1 centry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.195-210
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• 1992

The present research analyzed the social meaning of Korean clothing in women's magazine. The data were included the advertisements and publicity related to Korean clothing in two women's magazines and condensed at 5 year intervals with content analysis. The identified 276 advertisements and publicity were categorized into four areas. The categories were the trend of exterior growth of advertisements and publicity, appeals and approach, the elements of advertisements and publicity including background, the relation of models, situations, and styles of Korean clothing over times. The results of the study were as Follows: 1. In conjunction with external growth of advertisements and publicity of Korean clothing, the social meaning of Korean clothing has changed from ceremonial clothing to daily-wear clothing. Especially since 1980, the theme of advertisement and publicity of Korean clothing were changed form the beauty of traditional Korean clothing such as grace of dignity to the individuality which was the typical value of western Clothing. 2. The trends of appeals related to Korean clothing and applied Korean clothing have reflected the changing time and society. Since 1980, the emotional or mixed approach with metaphor have increased, whereas factual or situational approach were dominated in 1960s and 1970s. 3. The styles including silhouette, detail, textile and pattern of Korean clothing and applied Korean clothing also reflected the changing trends of Korean society. Especially since 1980, the applied style of Korean clothing has adopted the trends of western clothing. Implications for the future research were suggested.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.45-59
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• 2020

In the 1950s, Korea was forced to rely on foreign aid, relief supplies, and contraband because of the Korean War. At the same time, Western culture also flowed into the country rapidly, which is believed to have had a great impact on the Korean clothing culture of the time. It is thought that this trend could be found in magazines and newspapers of the time. In the 1950s, newspapers served as the main channel for information acquisition and dissemination. I would like to analyze this tendency focusing on a newspaper article in the Dong-A Ilbo in the 1950s. According to the article, the hanbok was viewed as an old custom that needed to be improved or old clothes that had to be changed to Western clothes. As a result, the doubles system of both hanbok and Western clothes collapsed, and hanbok changed to an evening or ceremonial dress. From the 1960s, Korean fashion quickly changed to a more western style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.87-96
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• 2009

Dangui is a formal dress of the wives of high officers and royalty in Chosun Dynasty and it was worn as a day dress in palace and a semi-ceremonial dress in upper-class households. Among the remains of Dangui a double-layered Dangui was found in which two sets of Dangui were combined to be worn as a single piece. The double-layered Dangui consists of an Over-Dangui and an Under-Dangui. The results of the examination of the remains for the Over-Dangui are as follows. As lone as the colors of the remains are identifiable, all of the Over-Dangui were green, whereas the Under-Dangui and lining materials were red. The textile was mostly in woven silk with pattern and it was frequently decorated with golden wefts or foils. A breast embroidery with phoenix and a dragon embroidery were also found. Such Dangui was worn mostly by the high members of the king's palace including the queen, crown princess, bastard princess, and monarch. There were two exceptions of wearing Dangui outside the king's palace. A simple Under-Dangui was made to enable a comfort fit of the two sets of Dangui and the suture was partially sewn. With three doth strings and cuffs, two pieces of Dangui were eventually assembled into one piece of clothing. Differences between the remains and the documents were also found in regards to textile and wearers of Dangui.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.7
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• pp.115-126
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• 1983

Myun Bok originated in China was introduced into Korea in ancient times. Some evidences show that it had settlled down as our own official robe already under Koryo Dynasty. And Koryo made her own regulations on Myun Bok. Kook Cho O Rye Eui(國朝五禮儀) of Choson Dynasty has comparatively detailed explanations on the way of cutting and shapes and materials. And the regulations are modeled after those of Ming China. But it has been impossible to know whether the regulations of Kook Cho O Rye Eui were strictly kept or not, because we have not enough remains through which to see it. And then we got very useful materials, Eui kue(儀軌), which are well known but have not been used in studying the history of costumes. Every Kook Chang Do Gam Eui Gue(國葬都監儀軌) have the provision of the so-called Pok Wan(服玩) set which includes the imitations or the full set of Myun Bok. And the provisions show us the illustrations colored in detail which help us understand the real shapes and the transformations of Myun Bok. After surveying the Pok wan provisions, author arrived at conclusions as follow; 1) Myun Boks are not always made in the same shape and colors. 2) The Provisions of Kook Cho O Rye Eui were not always kept strictly due to the lack of detailed directions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.27-40
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• 1996

1.It was recorded at "Dong Gook Tong Gam" of King "Jang Soo" that "Sim-Eui" in Korea was first introduced from China at the reign of King, "Moon Ja"(491,A.D), Go Goo Ryo. 2."Sim-Eui" was worn as a mourning dress during the period of "Go Ryo" and as a concanical robe of Confucian, a ceremonial dress at home and for the rules of etiquettes during Cho Sun Dunasty. 3.Several theories about the construction and the using services of "Sim-Eui" are obseved and summerized. 4.Mr. Kyu-soo Park gives a definition to "Sim-Eui" as a Fortune of Heaven & Earth, the Constellation of the Cosmic Dual Forces, the Revolution of the Four Seasons, a dignified mien & the Way of a Man of Virtue and Virtue of the golden Mean. 5.I observed the concrete measurements of the each parts of "Sim-Eui" by the construction method of Kyu-Soo Park. 6.The Symbolic Meaning following the Idea of Mr. Chung, Hyun. describes well the line of thinking in our nation, and Idea of Loyalty & Filial Piety, a Man of Virtue and the Virtue of the Golden Mean. 7.As described above, I dare insist of the fact that the Construction Theory of "Sim-Eui" by Kyu-Soo Park during the letter period of Chosun Dynasty is full of our national manners and cus-toms with symbolizing meaning, construction's exquisiteness, clothes' materials and it's size most suitable to our people, to the exclusion of the defects in "Sim-Eui" of China and Japan.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.109-121
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• 2018

Recently, it is one of the popular fashion and cultural events that people of the younger generation put on a hanbok and take a picture together with communicating by SNS. For this reason, the rent-hanbok market takes a big part of the Korean traditional costume market. Therefor, the recognition of hanbok is changed from the style of uncomfortable and ceremonial clothes, to becoming popular as everyday dress in the younger generation. The various designs of the rental hanbok show two different opinions. One is the increasing popular and general public interest and demand for wearing and showing off traditional hanbok fashions in a positive outlook. Another is the case of the wrong stereotype and knowledge for traditional costume which results in a negative outlook for this type of fashion statement. This study is to look into renting hanbok jeogori for women in Seoul and in Junju. There are 39 styles available in joegori. That being noted, the traditional jeogori has seop and git with dongjung. But it is seen that rental jeogoris do not have the seop, or have the dongjung position as similar to the Po as seen on the men's coat. The showy and colorful materials feel bad and are poorly ventilated. And excessive price competition causes a decreased quality of renting hanbok. Now the rental hanbok business needs to change; to have to make renting hanbok with the correct historical understanding, and it is necessary to have to stop the indiscriminate acceptance of foreign culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.30-44
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• 2010

The definition of pregnancy has changed as society and its values have developed through different periods of history. In the ancient period, the definition of a woman's fertility was that female deities provided fecundity to barren women and barren land, and protected both the pregnant women during the period of gestation and also the land during the time of growth. These goddesses also administered the appropriate ceremonial rituals for conception and childbirth, and for planting and harvesting. After that, for the last 2,000 years, the most conspicuous icon has been "The Virgin Mary with the Infant Christ". Mary was the mother of Jesus Christ and model for Christian women. However, the centuries the image of woman and pregnancy has been changed, modern society through education, careers and job opportunities allows many women to be more than just a wife or a mother. Moreover, in the 21st century, many pregnant women want stylish maternity wear because they are proud and their minds are opened by these new icons of birth culture as like the pregnancy of many famous stars. From this the purposes of this study are as follows, Firstly, to study on the meaning of woman's fertility from ancient period to present time by social changes. Secondly, to investigate the historical concept of the maternity wear for current modern maternity fashion market. Finally, to expect to use this study would be helpful basic data for develop of the new researches of the maternity fashion in the future.