• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.405-418
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate changes in the rental Hanbok market and consumer during the past 10 years. This study was done by analyzing internet news about rental Hanbok and in-depth interview. The results provide basic data that can be used to understand the rental Hanbok market. Results showed the followings: First, the rental Hanbok market has expanded and consists of two types of rental Hanbok; ceremonial and experiential. The experiential Hanbok is new but a big part in rental Hanbok market. It is not existed until 2007 but it accounted for more than 60% of internet news about rental Hanbok in 2016. Second, there is a significant difference in consumer behavior between the two types of rental Hanbok. Ceremonial Hanbok showed consistent consumer behavior between 2006 and 2016. Consumer want to get benefits such as TPO(occasion suitability), economy, exhibition, trendy and exceptionality through renting Hanbok. On the other hand, experiential Hanbok, consumers are motivated by having unique, conformity and sharing memories. Based on these results, different sets of information reveal the unique features of the two types of rental Hanbok. And also needed to develop new designs and marketing strategies for them.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.463-479
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• 2020

The purpose of this study identify the types and characteristics of Hanbok worn in lunar new year parade and Korean parade in New York over the past three years. As for the research method, I first collected domestic news articles, overseas Korean news articles, and literature reviews about the history of the Korean parade in New York and the events of each year. Second, I conducted a case study on Hanbok worn in the six parades from 2017 to 2019 using photo data collected through direct surveys, 'YouTube' video footage and news article photos. Third, I interviewed people related to the New York parade about the route of buying and renting the Hanbok in the New York area. The types of Hanbok shown in the Korean parade in New York can be largely classified as ceremonial, performance, and daily costume. There were 65 ceremonial costumes in all, with men wearing Dallyeong (official's robe) and Gorlyongpo (dragon robe) and women wearing Dangui (woman's semi-formal jacket), Wonsam (woman's ceremonial robe), and Hwarot (princess's ceremonial robe). A number of performance costumes were also worn by the Chwitasu bands, Nongak ensembles and fan dancers. Finally, of the 210 daily Hanbok, most men wore Baji (pants) and Jeogori (jacket), and women wore Chima (skirts) and Jeogori. The parade attempts to showcase the beauty of Hanbok, but the costumes repeat year after year, which can feel monotonous to onlookers. This research can be used as a reference to effectively utilize Hanbok in future Korean cultural events.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2003

This study is to clarify the true meaning of christian ceremonial dress, based on the Biblical background, by examining the origin and the symbolic meaning of the Catholic ceremonial dress. The influence of the Liturgical movement on the ceremonial dress and the changes in the symbolic meaning of the Christian ceremonial dress are studied. This research also aims to closely examine the difference in Christians' consciousness on the Christian ceremonial dress such as gown, stole, and clergy shirt. It aims to provide basic resources for the education and further study on the Christian ceremonial dress through reconfirming the basic understanding and the symbolic meaning of the Christian ceremonial dress. As a result, according to the lesson of the Bible and the ideology of the Reformation, it is suggested that priests should wear regular suits or the traditional Hanbok rather than wearing gown or Roman collar. However, if most of Christians believe that it is critical to wear ceremonial dress to project holiness and seriousness during the service, it is suggested that priest should wear gown only and avoid Roman collar and stole because they only show the hierarchy of priests. Accordingly, there is a hope in this research that the knowledge of ceremonial dress could be re-defined based on the Evangelism in the Bible though the results of the study.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.185-194
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• 2004

This study examined the characteristics of 45 sects of seven new aboriginal religious groups in Korea including Jeungsan sect, Tangun sect, Soowoon sect, Won Buddhism, Bongnam sect, Gahksedo sect, Shamanism sect that had given a considerable influence on the modem Korean society since the end of 19th century through the field study and the review of documents. The purpose of the study was to elucidate how their religious ideas were reflected in their ceremonial costumes and what characteristics these costumes had. The results were as follows: 1. The new religious groups in Korea modified or mixed the designs or the names of existing outfits to convey their ideas or beliefs through their costumes. 2. The costumes of new religious groups had common characteristics of the times, Korean tradition and ancestor worship. 3. All the ceremonial costumes symbolized the creeds and ideas of each religion in their names, designs, and colors. The names of the costumes such as Way-Robe, Law-Robe, and Ceremony-Robe, and of the headpieces such as Sky-Crown, Lotus-Crown, Ceremony-Crown, and Sevenfold-Crown, for instance, were related with Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The most common design of costume was consisted of traditional hanbok and some type of headpiece and robe for men, and hanbok modified to Western-style for women. Most sects adopted hanbok as their ceremonial costume, but they tend to simplify its design. The color scheme of the costumes reflected the influence of the Yul-Yang and Five Elements idea but the colors varied depending on seasons and occasions to suit their creeds and philosophy. 4. These religious costumes were worn at various ceremonies, ritual, and various anniversary services for the master and other dignitaries of the sect to render greater piety to those gatherings, to distinguish the sect from other religious groups, to clarify the meaning of the ceremony, and to heighten the devout feelings of the participants. Thus, the structure (the symbol, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme) and religious background of the costumes of the new aboriginal religious groups in Korea turned out to have inherited and mixed various elements of traditional Korean outfits and those of existing religions to symbolize their religious ideas.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.109-121
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• 2018

Recently, it is one of the popular fashion and cultural events that people of the younger generation put on a hanbok and take a picture together with communicating by SNS. For this reason, the rent-hanbok market takes a big part of the Korean traditional costume market. Therefor, the recognition of hanbok is changed from the style of uncomfortable and ceremonial clothes, to becoming popular as everyday dress in the younger generation. The various designs of the rental hanbok show two different opinions. One is the increasing popular and general public interest and demand for wearing and showing off traditional hanbok fashions in a positive outlook. Another is the case of the wrong stereotype and knowledge for traditional costume which results in a negative outlook for this type of fashion statement. This study is to look into renting hanbok jeogori for women in Seoul and in Junju. There are 39 styles available in joegori. That being noted, the traditional jeogori has seop and git with dongjung. But it is seen that rental jeogoris do not have the seop, or have the dongjung position as similar to the Po as seen on the men's coat. The showy and colorful materials feel bad and are poorly ventilated. And excessive price competition causes a decreased quality of renting hanbok. Now the rental hanbok business needs to change; to have to make renting hanbok with the correct historical understanding, and it is necessary to have to stop the indiscriminate acceptance of foreign culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.13-24
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• 2001

With development of our society, the Hanbok, which is the traditional clothing of our country, is mainly used only on the festive days or marriage ceremony or so as a ceremonial dress and seems lack in wearing as plain clothes. But in the other hand. with general public became no more unfamiliar with the representation of Korean realities and accepted them as a part of life in 90', the modernized Hanbok that features seasoning the practicality into the aesthetic natures of the traditional Hanbok has been rooting in our country. The existing researches on the modernized Hanbok, however. are focused only in the design of the modernized Hanbok, the present conditions of the modernized Hanbok business and the actual condition of the modernized Hanbok, and the aspect in systematic research on the customers'purchasing behavior is weak in comparison with other areas. The goal of this research, by focusing in the value which is the most basic concept of psychological components indicating the customers' behavior, was : first. to make clear the value of the modernized Hanbok and divide the customers into various groups : second, to make clear the characteristics on the population statistics by the groups divided on the clothing value : third, to make clear the individual differences among the customers of the modernized Hanbok : and forth, to make clear the basis on which to estimate the modernized Hanbok by the customers'groups. This research adopted the surrey inquiry. The first investigation is carried out on the modernized Hanbok purchasers and salesmen in Insa-dong where the modernized Hanbok business is massed. As correction and complement for the first investigation. the final investigation is carried out in Oct. 2000 with the 480 persons from twenties to sixties consisting of the modernized Hanbok purchasers and experienced persons in wearing it.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.84-99
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• 2010

The aim of this study is to understand the wedding planners' general perceptions on Hanbok as a ceremonial dress in wedding ceremonies. Moreover, the study explores the aesthetic understanding of wedding planners on Hanbok which both influences their choice of recommendation and purchasing decisions. In the process of organizing the structure of weddings for clients, planners have naturally acquired the position of being able to influence the sales of the Hanbok industry. Moreover, brides-to-be are heavily dependant on wedding planners in sketching the outlines of their whole wedding. Therefore, in order to analyze the opinions of both subjects, a research survey was launched which involved three hundred participants from two groups: first, wedding planners who were free lancers working in the Chungdam District, and second, wedding planners who were working for wedding consulting firms. The survey method was based on one precedent study, in which a preliminary survey was conducted by interviewing companies in the Hanbok industry and wedding consulting firms, and an additional survey in the form of questionnaires. The STATA 11.0 program was used for analyzing the recruited data for frequency analysis and cross-tabulations analysis on career. The conclusion of this research may be used as substantial preliminary data in prospering the Hanbok industry, enhance and newly shape its marketing strategies and the conclusion is as follows. 1. Wedding planners have a more profound understanding on Hanbok and prioritize the significance of formative constituents in the order of color, material, style, size, and decoration. 2. The prospects of promoting the image of Hanbok through wedding planners is promising. According to surveys, this goes to show that the persuasion of wedding planners have brought a positive effect on choice of Hanbok and as wedding planners become more specialized, their involvement in preparing Hanbok with brides is increasing. 3. Wedding planners believed that the main reasons why future brides do not select Hanbok as a ceremony dress are that the cost is too high relative to practicality and that there are not enough opportunities to wear them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.140-149
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• 2013

The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.45-59
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• 2020

In the 1950s, Korea was forced to rely on foreign aid, relief supplies, and contraband because of the Korean War. At the same time, Western culture also flowed into the country rapidly, which is believed to have had a great impact on the Korean clothing culture of the time. It is thought that this trend could be found in magazines and newspapers of the time. In the 1950s, newspapers served as the main channel for information acquisition and dissemination. I would like to analyze this tendency focusing on a newspaper article in the Dong-A Ilbo in the 1950s. According to the article, the hanbok was viewed as an old custom that needed to be improved or old clothes that had to be changed to Western clothes. As a result, the doubles system of both hanbok and Western clothes collapsed, and hanbok changed to an evening or ceremonial dress. From the 1960s, Korean fashion quickly changed to a more western style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.