• Title/Summary/Keyword: ceremonial Dress

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A Study on the Costume in Asuka Period of Japan -Focusing on the Ruling Classes′and the Ruled Classes′Costumes - (일본 비조시대의 복식에 관한 연구 -지배자층과 저지배자층의 복식을 중심으로-)

  • 이자연
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.10 no.3
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    • pp.283-292
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    • 2002
  • This study is to examine the costume and features in Asuka period and the results are as follows. Asuka period is the time that the country loader positively imported the continental civilization, founded a new country organization in political society and accepted Buddhism and exerted his best passion for its thriving. As the result of examining the costume and features of Asuka period when the requirement for accepting the foreign culture was met via the present costume regulation and relics material, it was found that the costume had a considerable difference between of the ruling classes with government official and noble as the center and the common people. As for the costume of the ruling-classed official and noble, Korean and Chinese costume regulation was introduced, court dress, ceremonial dress, and uniform were dressed. The composition of costume with introduction of new clothes including Wio, Baedang, Seup, Pil, Kyongsang, for the ruling classes was diversified as well. As the result of looking the clothes for the present ruling classes via the existing and the contemporary relics, it was found that the clothes consisted of Eui and Gon or Eui and Sang style in principle and Po with Banryung or Sooryung was worn over what. However, for the common people, mainly man wore Eui and Gon and woman Eui and Sang, which was the traditional costume style in the ancient tomb days.

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A Study on the Modernization of Japanese costume

  • Jeon, Hyun-Sil;Kang, Soon-Che
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2008
  • This research analyzes the patterns in modernization of costume that reflects the attitude of accepting the Western culture and the differences in perception, during modernization period (1850-early 1910) in Japan. The Japanese attitude toward the Western costume can be roughly classified into three periods: impetuous acceptance in the early Restoration of Imperial Regime(1867-1883), aggressive acceptance in Rokumeikan period(1883-1887), and the coexistence of traditional and modern costumes after Meiji 20(1887-1910). A Western costume symbolizes wealth and power until Rokumeikan period, however, as it becomes more common, it is considered as an ordinary dress rather than a ceremonial dress. The exact opposite phenomenon occurs to traditional costume. Although Japanese modernization is initially forced by western ideology of power, positive reactions to western culture and changes in perception toward China leads to more active importation of western culture. This reflects the governmental effort such as the Foreigners Employment Policy in the early Meiji period, and the public also became receptive toward change. However, acceptance of the Western culture is only limited to academic and technological areas, while the traditional Japanese ethos(the Emperor system, Shintoism, patriarchism) is obstinately protected. Therefore, it can be inferred that such extreme polarization of modernization and traditional inheritance enabled both perspectives to retain their own characteristics.

The Construction Theary of "Sim-Eui" During Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 심의 구성이론)

  • 조효춘
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.27
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    • pp.27-40
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    • 1996
  • 1.It was recorded at "Dong Gook Tong Gam" of King "Jang Soo" that "Sim-Eui" in Korea was first introduced from China at the reign of King, "Moon Ja"(491,A.D), Go Goo Ryo. 2."Sim-Eui" was worn as a mourning dress during the period of "Go Ryo" and as a concanical robe of Confucian, a ceremonial dress at home and for the rules of etiquettes during Cho Sun Dunasty. 3.Several theories about the construction and the using services of "Sim-Eui" are obseved and summerized. 4.Mr. Kyu-soo Park gives a definition to "Sim-Eui" as a Fortune of Heaven & Earth, the Constellation of the Cosmic Dual Forces, the Revolution of the Four Seasons, a dignified mien & the Way of a Man of Virtue and Virtue of the golden Mean. 5.I observed the concrete measurements of the each parts of "Sim-Eui" by the construction method of Kyu-Soo Park. 6.The Symbolic Meaning following the Idea of Mr. Chung, Hyun. describes well the line of thinking in our nation, and Idea of Loyalty & Filial Piety, a Man of Virtue and the Virtue of the Golden Mean. 7.As described above, I dare insist of the fact that the Construction Theory of "Sim-Eui" by Kyu-Soo Park during the letter period of Chosun Dynasty is full of our national manners and cus-toms with symbolizing meaning, construction's exquisiteness, clothes' materials and it's size most suitable to our people, to the exclusion of the defects in "Sim-Eui" of China and Japan.

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A Research on the Production of Gulgunjebok of Choe Onsun, a Needlework Master (침선장 최온순의 굴건제복(屈巾祭服)의 제작에 관한 연구)

  • Young-Joo Lee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.26 no.1
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    • pp.77-98
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    • 2024
  • The mourning attire worn by the Sangju (Chief Mourner) during Confucian funeral rituals is known as Gulgeonjebok. It is comprised of Gulgeon, Sujil, and Hyogeon on the head, and Jungui underneath. On top of the Jungui, the ceremonial garments called Choeui are worn, along with Choesang. Yojil and Gyodae are then tied around the waist. Mahye and Hangieon are worn on the feet, and a walking stick made of bamboo, paulownia, or willow is carried. A needlework master, Choe Onsun, who was designated as a Holder of Intangible Cultural Property of Jeollabuk-do on November 27, 1998, is recognized for her efforts in restoring and recreating the forgotten Gulgeonjebok. Thanks to her endeavors, the period, regional, and cultural characteristics of Gulgeonjebok in the Jeolla Province have been preserved. This study aims to examine and reproduce characteristic items of Gulgeonjeboks handed down by a needlework master, Choe, by conducting an empirical study on the dimensions and schematization of the Gulgeon, the method of cutting, and the sewing process. The empirical research on Gulgeojebok is expected to further enhance traditional sewing skills. It will also serve as a foundation for deepening the level of research on traditional dress and sharing traditional cultural heritage.

Research on the Perception of Wedding Planners on Hanbok as a Wedding Ceremony Dress

  • Shin, Kyeong-Seub
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.14 no.6
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    • pp.84-99
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    • 2010
  • The aim of this study is to understand the wedding planners' general perceptions on Hanbok as a ceremonial dress in wedding ceremonies. Moreover, the study explores the aesthetic understanding of wedding planners on Hanbok which both influences their choice of recommendation and purchasing decisions. In the process of organizing the structure of weddings for clients, planners have naturally acquired the position of being able to influence the sales of the Hanbok industry. Moreover, brides-to-be are heavily dependant on wedding planners in sketching the outlines of their whole wedding. Therefore, in order to analyze the opinions of both subjects, a research survey was launched which involved three hundred participants from two groups: first, wedding planners who were free lancers working in the Chungdam District, and second, wedding planners who were working for wedding consulting firms. The survey method was based on one precedent study, in which a preliminary survey was conducted by interviewing companies in the Hanbok industry and wedding consulting firms, and an additional survey in the form of questionnaires. The STATA 11.0 program was used for analyzing the recruited data for frequency analysis and cross-tabulations analysis on career. The conclusion of this research may be used as substantial preliminary data in prospering the Hanbok industry, enhance and newly shape its marketing strategies and the conclusion is as follows. 1. Wedding planners have a more profound understanding on Hanbok and prioritize the significance of formative constituents in the order of color, material, style, size, and decoration. 2. The prospects of promoting the image of Hanbok through wedding planners is promising. According to surveys, this goes to show that the persuasion of wedding planners have brought a positive effect on choice of Hanbok and as wedding planners become more specialized, their involvement in preparing Hanbok with brides is increasing. 3. Wedding planners believed that the main reasons why future brides do not select Hanbok as a ceremony dress are that the cost is too high relative to practicality and that there are not enough opportunities to wear them.

A Study on the historical research of the leading man's Costume in 'Chun hyangjeon' ('춘향전(春香傳)'에 등장(登場)하는 주요(主要) 남자(男子) 복식(服飾) 고증(考證) 연구(硏究))

  • Kim, Moon-Ja
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.9 no.4
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    • pp.79-93
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    • 2005
  • 'Chunhyangjeon' was written by an anonymous author in the mid-period of Chosun Dynasty. The personalities of characters and the styles of dress of men in 'Chunhyangjeon' recreated their clothing to one that is more similar to the descriptions in the literature text can be described as follows. Lee, Mongyong was a young man, but he was a man of integrity and honor. In outwear he wore 'Hat(Heulip)' and 'Dopo' and Taesahae. When he earned his title, he wore 'Pokdu' with flowers and 'Angsam(ceremonial robe)'. After he became a secret royal inspector, in order to disguised on himself as a poor man he wore worn-out 'Heuklip' and 'Dopo' and Jipsin. Bangja who was a servant of Lee, Mongyong wore 'Beonggeoji' and 'Kwaeja' and 'Mituli'. Byun, Hacdo was a rash and greedy character, he wore 'Oklolip' and 'Cheopli' and 'mokhwa' when he was on the way to his post. Yeokjol was low grade official wore 'Jeonlip' and 'Cheopli' and 'Red shoulder band' and 'Mituli'.

An Analysis of the Characteristics of Balinese Costume - Focus on the Legong Dance Costume -

  • Langi, Kezia-Clarissa;Park, Shinmi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.4
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    • pp.38-57
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    • 2017
  • Traditional costume in Indonesia represents identity of a person and it displays the origin and the status of the person. Where culture and religion are fused, the traditional costume serves one of the most functions in rituals in Bali. This research aims to analyze the characteristics of Balinese costumes by focusing on the Legong dance costume. Quantitative research was performed using 332 images of Indonesian costumes and 210 images of Balinese ceremonial costumes. Qualitative research was performed by doing field research in Puri Saba, Gianyar and SMKN 3 SUKAWATI(Traditional Art Middle School). The paper illustrates the influence and structure of Indonesian traditional costume. As the result, focusing on the upper wear costume showed that the ancient era costumes were influenced by animism. They consist of tube(kemben), shawl(syal), corset, dress(terusan), body painting and tattoo, jewelry(perhiasan), and cross. The Modern era, which was shaped by religion, consists of baju kurung(tunic) and kebaya(kaftan). The Balinese costume consists of the costume of participants and the costume of performers. Bali dancing is grouped into Wali dance(sacred), Bebali dance(theatrical), and Balih-balihan dance(entertainment). The Legong dance is included in the Balih-balihan dance, and its costume developed from 1920 until present. The characteristics of Legong dance costumes are 'Theatrical,' 'Angelic,' 'Charming,' and 'Decorative.' In conclusion, the balance of religion, culture, and art gives a unique trait in Bali. The Balinese social system, which is based on Hinduism, has influenced art and its function. This relationship creates a strong structure to the Balinese ceremonial costume, especially the Legong dance costume.

The Costumes of 18th Century Joseon Dynasty from Lee Ok's Writings (이옥(李鈺)의 글에 나타난 18세기 조선시대 복식)

  • Choi, Ji-Hee;Hong, Na-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.5
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    • pp.18-34
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    • 2013
  • This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.

A Study of the Personal Ornaments and Make-up of Maroccan (모로코인(人)의 장신구(裝身具)와 화장(化粧)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Soon-Hong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.15-34
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    • 2001
  • Ornaments are accessories for the decoration of the body or dress. They aren't unavoidably required one, but serve to make one's dress perfect as decorative industrial art objects. In Morocco, ornaments were initially used as a sign of social position or the class or an incantatory symbol. In effect, they were originally employed to adjust one's dress, not just for decoration, and they were of use for household economy. Gold, silver and handcraft available for exchange were a means of increasing one's property and an indication of social standing and wealth. In particular, the dress and jewelry of a bride was a measure of her family's wealth, regarded as a symbol of her chastity and value. The ornaments symbolically back up people's faith in supernatural power, and their real value is based on implicit form or way of decoration, not the external shape. Specifically, there is a tendency to use the form of animal as a protector, not one to frighten people. In the artistic tradition of Morocco, fish pattern stands for water and rain, and eagle and bird are considered to be related to fate. Scorpion and lizard are depicted as an inquirer of sun, and snake is a symbol of abundance and sexual instinct, being viewed to have an ability to cure disease. Turtle pattern is a symbol of saint because it protects one from the evil. The ornaments are made of gold, silver, amber, clam, garnet, glass, nielle, enamel, glaze, coral or tree, and symbolic patterns are used, including hand(a symbol of five numerals), turtle, lizard, scorpion, eye, triangle, bird and eggs. They are very big and diverse, being categorized into ornaments for the head or the chest, neckless, fibula, earring, bracelet and ring. For Moroccans, make-up is a sort of instinctive behavior to meet aesthetic and sexual desire. They also wear make-up for practical purpose of protection, intentionally inflict a wound on the skin for ceremonial or religious purpose, paint the skin with pigment, or have the part of the body tattooed for incantatory purpose. All this actions are regarded as make-up. The raw material of cosmetics is aker, a vegetable dye. They get the lips or cheeks turn red and paint eyebrows with yellow saffran powder to have a bad devil lose its strength. Tattooing is mainly done by women and viewed as a sign of their value or social organization they belong to. Sometimes that is used to represent a woman's being old enough to marry or getting married already or the frequency of marriage. Besides, tattoo is believed to prevent or remedy loose bowels or cough, depending on its location or pattern, and they often change tattoo according to the change of beauty art.

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A Study of Clothing Recorded in the[the Odes(詩經)](II)-About the Women's Clothing & Textiles- ([시경]에 나타난 복식자료 연구(II)-여자복식과 직물을 중심으로-)

  • 김문숙;이순원
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.44
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    • pp.5-17
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    • 1999
  • This paper studies women's clothing and textiles recorded in the『the Odes』, and refers research materials on the old commentaries about the『the Odes』and the various kinds of records and remains. The results regarding women's clothing in『the Odes』are follow: 1. Ti-i, Chin-i are the women's ceremonial dresses. Ti-i is a kind of the court dress and the shape is a long dress embroidered with pheasant. Chan-i belongs to the lower grade compared with the six ritual dresses worn by the queen and is made of Hu that is a kind of the white soft-wrinkled fabrics. 2. A women's I-Shang is composed of a blouse and a skirt. It is the classic style before the Sh n-I appears in China. Also we find that they use the standard colours for a blouse and the intermediate colours for a skirt in Chou period. 3. Chiung-I, Chiung-Shang and Hsieh-Pen are a kind of the robe put over the former garment made of Chin not to display to elegance. 4. Fu, Ch n-Fa, Pei and T'i are a kind of women's wig. Ti and the six-Chia are women's hair ornaments. Ch'i-Chin and Ju-L are a kind of the working women's turbun. 5. The women's belt ornaments are classified into the practical things and the decorational things like those for men. The results regarding fabrics in the『the Odes』are as follow: 1. The silk fabrics; There are Chin, Hu, Chou, Tz , Su, Hsiu. 2. The woolen fabrics; There is Ho. 3. The linen fabrics; There are the hemp and the ramie in the remains of Chou period. Also there are Ch'ih and Hsi categorized in Ko fabrics.

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