• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권10호
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• pp.177-189
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop a suitable jacket pattern for elderly women. The subjects were two women of the ages of 65-70, who had different bust size. To reflect the ready made pattern drafting systems, 4 industrial patterns were selected. After analyzing the problems of these patterns, a new jacket pattern was proposed. The results were as follows : 1) The amount of appropriate ease in fitted jacket for elderly women was about 10cm at the bust circumference, 10∼12cm at the hip circumference and the height of sleeve cap was AH/3+0.5cm. 2) Considering an enlargement of waist and abdomen, difference between front and back size was 2cm on the bust line, 6-8cm on the waist and hip line. 3) Because of the shape of concavity of back-waist, center back line in the pattern was folded by 0.5cm from center back waist toward side seam for manipulation. 4) The new jacket pattern was compared with the existing pattern through the wearing test by sensory evaluation. It showed that the fit and comfort of experimental pattern was superior to those of the existing pattern.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2022

본 연구는 20대 비만 여성에게 적합한 보디스 원형 개발을 위해 프랑스, 일본 패션교육기관의 원형과 우리나라 교육용 원형 1개, 우리나라 산업체용 원형 2개 등 총 5개 패턴 제도법을 비교·분석하였다. 이를 통해 플러스 사이즈 여성 의복 개발에 적합한 보디스 원형 패턴 제도법을 알아보고자 하였다. 패턴제도를 위해 패턴1은 앞품, 뒤품, 젖가슴둘레, 목둘레, 등길이 등 가장 많은 신체치수를 적용하였고, 패턴2, 패턴4, 패턴5는 젖가슴둘레, 등길이를 기준으로 모든 패턴을 제작하였다. 외관평가 결과, 패턴3이 앞중심길이의 적합성, 옆허리둘레선 위치의 적합성 항목을 제외하고 모든 항목에서 가장 우수한 패턴으로 평가되었다. 그러나 옆선의 수직, 옆허리둘레선 위치의 적합성, 뒤진동둘레 위치 및 형태의 적합성, 뒤어깨다트 위치의 적합성 등의 항목에서는 부적합한 것으로 평가되었다. 보디스 원형은 젖가슴둘레 치수를 기준으로 대부분의 패턴 제도가 이루어지나 비만 여성의 경우 목둘레 설정, 어깨길이 설정에 있어서는 다른 제도법이 필요할 것으로 생각된다. 또, 복부 돌출로 앞중심길이 설정 방법에 대한 개발도 요구되었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권7호
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• pp.1008-1019
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for elderly women over sixty years old, providing a good fit and appearance. Results were as follows: The length of the jacket was made long enough to cover the area 22.0cm below the waistline. The waist back length was made 1.7cm longer than the actual size of the waist back length. The armhole length was made 0.5cm longer than B/4, enhacing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms. As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 1.7cm larger than the actual size while the back interscye breadth was only 1.0cm larger, providing the front interscye breadth more space. The bust breadth was made 10.0cm larger than the bust circumference measure(B/4+2.5cm), the waist breadth was made 6.0cm larger than the waist circumference measure(W/4+1.5cm), The hip breadth was made 12.0cm larger than the him circumference measure(H/4+3.0cm). The sleeve length was made 3.0cm larger than the arm length measure, as the sleeve length of a jacket is usually long enough to cover the ulnar styloid. The sleeve width was made 5.0cm larger than the upper arm circumference measure, as the upper arm circumference measure of the model pattern was too large than necessary, worsening the overall appearance. The sleeve cap height was set at AH/4+4.7cm. The wrist circumference of 27.0cm was set, allowing 2/3 and 1/3 for the large sleeve and small sleeve respectively.

• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.58-71
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine the increments of body measurements of the teenage boys between the ages of 13 and 18 and provide a fundamental data for apparel manufacturers in order for them to make clothing that reflect the appropriate body characteristics of the teenage boys. The total of 1587 male subjects between the ages of 13 and 18, from the 5th Anthropometric survey of Korea (Size Korea) data, were used for this study. The changes in the body dimensions were analyzed with anthropometric measurements and anthropometric index mesurements. First, anthropometric measurement results show that most of the height related measurements increased in accordance with age, and that the boys between the ages of 13 and 15 experience dramatic growth. Standard deviation is the largest between the age of thirteen and fourteen which indicates that in these ages there is a wide difference in a growth rate Second, anthropometric index measurement results show that in accordance with age, bust, waist and hip depth/width rate decreased; however, waist and hip depth/width rate increased at the age of 18. In accordance with age, upper body length rate increased, whereas lower body length rate decreased. Bust circumference, armhole length, and upperarm circumference rate increased gradually, whereas waist circumference decreased.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.67-78
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• 2010

This paper analyzes how to measure breast volume and the change in breast volume after wearing a brassiere. Measurement using a breast replica is used to measure the breast volume of 41 women in their twenties. The rate of persons having flat and hemispherical breast are high. The majority of subjects are size 75A, 80A, and 75B, and their under-bust size is 70. The current size specification should be refined for fitting according as the girth under bust decreases. The correlation between breast volume and the circumference of the breasts was high. It was more reliable to set up the cup size of a brassiere using the breast circumference. The mean breast volume is 263.68cc (nude) and the total volume wearing brassiere is 342.05cc. The volume difference according to wearing a brassiere is 78.37cc, which is less than the brassiere volume itself. The results show, the less breast volume of a subject, then the greater volume in wearing a brassiere.

• Archives of Plastic Surgery
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.256-258
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• 2010

Purpose: Predicting the change in breast size for a specific patient's need is a challenging problem in breast augmentation. We intended to investigate the postaugmentation degree of breast size according to the size of cohesive silicone gel implant. Methods: To predict post-augmentation breast size, we measured 100 patients' pre-and postoperative 3 month's bust circumference. All patients were performed by total subfascial breast augmentation with moderate profile cohesive silicone gel implant through areolar omega (transareolar-perinipple) incision. Results: According to this study, each additional one pair of 100 mL in implant size yielded an approximate 1.5 cm increase in bust circumference (p=0.006). Conclusion: From this result, we conclude that each additional one pair of 100 mL in implant volume yielded about 1.5 cm increase in bust circumference. Although this result may not be applied to every patient, we believe that it yields a practical chart that can help to predict the amount of increase in breast size with the use of cohesive silicone gel implant of a specific size preoperatively.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.457-469
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to quantitatively analyze the impacts of the distribution of easing contraction of the sleeve on the external appearance of bodice and sleeve through virtual clothing simulation. Virtual clothing is conducted by differentiating the sleeve easing in accordance with the experimental condition of bodice and sleeve that are followed by draping. And then the evaluation is carried out. As a result of an analysis of the similarity between the virtual garment and the actual clothing, the whole external appearance of the bodice and sleeve was expressed similarly. The external appearance according to the distribution of easing contraction got better as the easing contraction of sleeve was concentrated on sleeve cap in front while the appearance was better at the back as it was more gently distributed than in the front. In a comparison of armhole form, the clothing of which the top of it was most similar to S0 was S4 in which the gap between the armhole and the arm was the least and the front and rear silhouette fell relatively well. In a comparison between the position of bust circumference line and that of the sleeve base line, the front of the sleeve matched the bust circumference line as the easing contraction was distributed close to the center of the sleeve cap while in the back, the sleeve base line and the bust circumference line matched when some easing contraction ratio was added close to the armpit point. The cross section figures of garment space of the shoulder, the margin was evenly distributed in S4 or S5 with differing distributions of easing contraction in the front and the back. This study is significant in that it supplies the objective baseline data which makes a novice more able to make a good external appearance of the sleeve.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.230-243
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyse the body sizes of $7{\sim}12$ years elementary school girls and also to categorize KS size dimensions by the detailed information of ages and body shapes. For the study, the data of SizeKorea(2004) was analysed. Height, bust, waist, hip, the ratio of waist to height and hip to height were significant between age groups, but the ratio of bust to height was not. Therefore, the increase of bust size was resulted in growth of bust circumference, instead of bust volume. In the same height group, over 11 year girls had smaller waist, while over 12 year girls had bigger hip. For Grouping girls by ages and body shapes, the ages were divided into 2 groups, under 10 years old and 11 to 12 years old. The body shapes classified into 3 groups 'Stout-shape', 'Middle-shape', and 'slim-shape', by the ratios of bust to height and hip to height. 'Stout-shape' was significantly big at the almost sizes, but 'Middle-shape' was significantly big at only circumferences, not lengths. In addition, drop(the difference between bust and hip) and lower-drop(the difference between waist and hip) were in inverse proportion to the ratios of bust to height and hip to height. It meant the increases of bust-ratio and hip-ratio of 'Stout-shape' were resulted in overweight, rather than female matureness. The distribution of sizes over 0.5% were grouped for grading system and the subtotal percentiles of each group were calculated for industrial data. The groups which covered more than 10% of consumers were 2 to 6 and the 1 or 2 groups for 'Stout-shape' were also observed, so that children's ready-to wear companies could use them efficiently for their own consumer target.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.22-31
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• 2011

In this study, to develop a bodice pattern for women aged 18~24 years, statistical analysis was conducted using the body measurements from 2004 Size Korea and wearing test was conducted. As a result, ease of the bust level to set a horizontal line was decided to be 4cm, that of front interscye line 0cm, and that of back interscye line 0.7~1cm. And the line which divides the horizontal baseline into halves set as the side line. The conversion formula for decision of the scye depth line in the pattern is B/6 + 3.3(cm) + ease (2.5cm), and if bust circumference is 91 or more, it should be 21cm, and if bust circumference is 76 or less, it should be 18.5cm. The back neck line width is 7cm, front neck line width 6.5cm(back neck line width -0.5cm), and front neck depth 8cm(back neck line width +1cm). The shoulder slope was set as a slope of the hypotenuse of a right-angled triangle, which went out 15cm out of the shoulder point and went down 6cm, with tan$21.7^{\circ}$. To develop a final research pattern, wearing test was performed on the primary research pattern for 21 women aged 18~24 years. As a result, the research pattern was evaluated to be significantly higher.