• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-81
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• 2013

A Study using compare and analyze about differences among three patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of estimation about total appearance, the pattern of Bunka is best of all pattern about total fitting and silhouette of front and back side. The pattern of armstrong and on&on stand low in estimation. As the total fitting, the pattern of Bunka is 4.40, the pattern of Armstrong is 2.60 and the pattern of On&on is 1.60. The result show better pattern of Bunka than pattern of Armstrong and On&on. When we examine about space between body and cloth, the pattern of Bunka is best. The pattern of Armstrong don't have problems about back side but front side have some problem of getting loose. Because it only have a waist dart so dart size is too big. The pattern of On&on have so much space because it don't have a waist dart. On the amount of air gap, the pattern of Bunka squash up body so it have the amount of air gap 0.08 at bust circumference and underbust circumference. Next is the pattern of Armstrong, amount of air gap is 0.14 at bust circumference and 0.23 at underbust circumference. The pattern of On&on's amount of air gap is 0.30 at bust circumference and 0.37 at underbust circumference. So the pattern of Bunka is bodice block of the best closing adhesion and the On&on is a loose-fitting pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.146-169
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• 2010

For the purpose to develop the pattern of a tailored jacket for the Chinese adult women, a drawing method for the pattern of a tailored jacket was selected with the style of 'on&on', a young and casual brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co., Ltd. that has been successful in the China market, and then the measures to be applied were set up by properly combining the body measures such as the mean, mode and median of the entire group from data measured from women of 18 to 24 years old in Shanghai, China in 2008 and the mean body measures of the body type A of 2008 classified by GB/T 1335.2-1997. The pattern of a tailored jacket developed was verified for feasibility based on a wearing test and then revised for the parts with low jacket ability in general including the bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, shoulder, waist back length and back area. The final measures applied for the development of a tailored jacket were 160-165cm for the height, the bust circumference of 87.7cm, waist circumference of 69.6cm and hip circumference of 92.8cm for a jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.117-128
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to find fitness of brassiere by means of body measuring value, its variation volume, the evaluation of perceptive image, and the evaluation of the sense of wearing. The results were as follows; 1) According to comparison for body measuring value before and after wearing brassiere, bust point (B.P.) height, lower bust height, upper chest circumference, chest circumference, and bust depth are increased, and lower chest circumference, bust point breadth, shoulder middle point - B.P., B.P. -under bust, and cup horizontal girth are decreased. 2) The difference of variation volume by material is not accepted. The part above $20\%$ at variation rate is under the region of the armpit, that is, the region connected arm from the back. 3) The subjects replied that they wore the brassiere in order to compensate the breast and needed to wear it regardless of thiness and obesity. They wore the brassiere in order to dress themselves in good shape, and felt that it put pressure upon the body, while it had nothing to do with adjusting bodily temperature and gave the sense of security. 4) The estimate of the sense of wearing by material is recognized as the difference of the attention at attentive level $1\%$. The multiple factor analysis of each item in the sense of wearing showed that the items which are explained over $90\%$ by common factors are '1. Unpreasant in touch', '2. The part of edge is haggard', '15. Not to be fit'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.982-996
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• 2010

This study classified the body shapes of Korean obese women and investigated the differences of each body shape, using 2004 Size Korea data. For selecting the obesity sample, 7 obesity judgment indices were chosen through previous clothing-related studies. A total of 636 females defined as "obese" by 5 out of 7 indices were selected as subjects and 54 body measurements and obesity judgment indices were used in this study. Firstly, mean, standard deviation, minimum, and maximum values of each measurement and item were obtained from the descriptive analysis of 53 measurements. According to the descriptive analysis, all measurements and obesity judgment indices of the subjects demonstrated a serious obesity level shown by BMI 27.11, R$\ddot{o}$hrer index 1.76, Vervaeck index 104.77, Relative weight 133.00, WHR 0.90, and waist circumference 86.71cm. In addition, the measurements and indices showed considerable differences between minimum and maximum values. Significant differences were identified in all measurements and items at a significant level, p=.001. Each distribution of body types according to age, stature, bust, and waist circumference groups was provided in this study. Secondly, factor analyses were conducted using 38 measurement items to extract the body characteristics of obese women. Factor 1 was "circumference measurements & obesity judgment indices," Factor 2 was "heights & arm-related lengths," and Factor 3 was "size and ratio of waist circumference & hip circumference." Factor 4 was "lengths in upper body," Factor 5 was "back width in upper body," Factor 6 was "side neck point to bust & bust circumference," Factor 7 was "length in lower body & arm circumferences" and Factor 8 was "neck base circumference & front width in upper body." These 8 factors explained 76.54% of the total variance. Finally, 5 body types were selected in the cluster analysis. Type 1 (with big back widths & arm circumferences) was 15.5% of the entire subjects, Type 2 (the shortest and fattest, with big upper body) was 18.8%, Type 3 (with big breast) was 27.8%, Type 4 (the tallest and longest in arm lengths, with the smallest arm circumferences and lengths in torso) was 22.5%, and Type 5 (with big hips compared to waist circumferences, smaller height and upper body) was 15.5%. Fundamental differences were identified in all measurements and items at the significant level of p=.001. In addition, each distribution of body type according to age, height, bust, and waist circumference groups was provided in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.10
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• pp.45-51
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• 2000

This study illucidated the importance of drop Value in the resets of surveying the current values of sizing and grading. Therefore, it is meaningful to get the classification of body form with the appropriate distribution of drop values of the body. The distribution of drop value and the frequency of each form is very helpful to name the combined sizing or coverage of ready-made clothes. This study aimed at classifying body forms with various drop values using multivariate analysis for sizing and grading. Factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using measured values from unmarried women. The resets are as follows; The factor which explains body forms was obtained by factor analysis, and the representative major 18 items which have important roles in classifying body forms were selected among the measured values with high factor loading and communality. 1) The body forms were classified into 3 groups based on the characteristics, frequencies and distributions of them obtained from cluster analysis. 2) Each classified body form showed conspicuous difference in drop value and the difference of body form mainly resulted from the difference between bust and hip(drop value) in Korean unmarried women. 3) Discriminant analysis showed that the most significant discriminant factor of the trunk classification were bust circumference, upper bust circumference, hip circumference and stature. 4) The cover ratio of size studied in this study for the Korean Sizing system for women's garment were founded high.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.123-135
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• 2021

This study provides basic information for the convenient size selection of T-shirts in an online purchasing environment. The best preferred T-shirts fit was selected among five sizes of T-shirts according to body size group. The subjects were 103 students majoring in clothing. After setting a virtual model with her own body sizes, the subjects chose the best preferred fit among five sizes of T-shirts that included the one suitable to their bust circumference, two smaller T-shirts and two larger T-shirts. As a result, they preferred the fit of larger size T-shirts than body size, but they preferred a different fit by the body characteristic group such as waist height group and hip circumference group. T-shirt length was affected by waist height; in addition, shoulder ease was affected by hip circumference and bust circumference. Therefore waist height and hip circumference should be considerable sizes when consumers choose T-shirts sizes with a preferred fit.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.73-84
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• 1982

The purpose of this study was to develop a basic bodice pattern and establish standards regrading to the size and grading of Korean misses' measurements in order to provide modern data for the ready-to-wear garment industry. 222 girls, aged from 18 to 27, were measured on 19 items of their structure. Mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variance, maximum, minimum, range and correlation coefficient between each items were analized. The analysis revealed the following significant results. The fundamental difference data of the bodice pattern and grading measurements between the year of 1975 and 1981 were as follow. (1) The measurements of bust and center back were used as a foundation to establish a standard size and grading. (2) Ranges of the bust circumference measurements were increased. Thus the sizes ere classfied into 5 groups. (3) The ease of bust circumference was increased due to the increasement of shoulder width. (4) The increase of the upper arm resulted to lower the bust line. (5) The shoulder slopes were higher than 1975. Therefore, the basic measurements of the shoulder slopes were reduced. (6) In spite of the front neck measurements were not changed, the back measurements were requied to increase. (7) the center front length became much shorter in the contrast with the increase of the center back length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.280-291
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• 2013

This paper analyzes desirable breast types using measurements from 31 selected female subjects based on the ratio of breast in works of art and to design a brassiere cup design according to the breast type of 182 female subjects in their 20s. The subjects selected for this paper are somewhat larger than a previous study on aesthetically perfect breasts of foreigners according to chest breadth, center neck point to breast point, breast circumference, and breast volume. However, the aesthetic breasts of foreigners are larger than the subjects selected for this study according to chest depth, under-bust circumference, and bust point to bust point. Comparing various breasts types and aesthetic breasts, padding is necessary to complement the form of flat breasts to increase the volume and diameter. Brassiere cups for cone-shaped breasts should be designed to increase breast volume through an increase in nipple height. Hemisphere breasts should be designed to increase the overall volume-leaving diameter. Protrusion breasts should enhance the functions of aggregating and supporting without any increase or decrease of the breast volume. Drooping breasts require the ability to support a large volume to stabilize the breast. Subjects were selected depending on the ratio of breast silhouette as works of art and who have large breasts in disproportional to a slender trunk. Three items, the circumferential length of breast, height of the nipple, and the depth of inner breast using the anthropomorphic measurements of 182 subjects were measured through regression equations for breast volume. Breast volume = -394.86 + 27.52 ${\times}$ (the circumferential length of breast) + 18.73 ${\times}$ (height of the nipple) + 12.85 ${\times}$ (the depth of inner breast). Regression equations to extract the aesthetic breast volume in measurements irrelevant to breasts using the anthropomorphic measurements of 31 subjects were as follows. Aesthetic breast volume = -611.30 + 17.67 ${\times}$ (bust circumference) -24.29 ${\times}$ (under-bust circumference) + 16.31 ${\times}$ (neck point to breast point to waistline) + 22.83 ${\times}$ (bust breadth) + 12.22 ${\times}$ (waist depth) -8.34 ${\times}$ (interscye- front). This prediction equation is useful to develop a breast type brassiere pattern, complement breast enhancement surgery, or minimize the effect a mastectomy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.689-698
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to develop the well-fitted brassieres by observing the changes in the breast sizes and shapes, the surface area and the volume of the breast through the arm movements of 3 types (0$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$ and 180$^{\circ}$) in vertical motion. The subjects are females, who are aged twenties and wearing a brassiere size 70B, In particular, to obtain the measures regarding the surface area and the volume of the breast, replicas are made at each motion. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The changes in the breast sizes and shapes at each motion By increasing the motions of the arm movement, the following measure items are inclined to decrease: Shoulder length, Side neck point~B.P., Front neck point~B.P., Horizontal length of the cup, Upper bust circumference, Bust circumference, Upper bust depth, Bust depth, Under bust depth, Nipple to tipple breadth, Horizontal distance of bust, Bust height, Cup size. By increasing the motions of the arm movement, the following measure items are inclined to increase: Center point of shoulder~B.P., Shoulder point~B.P., Armpit~ lowest point of breast drooping, Upper bust point~B.P., B.P~Under bust point, Under bust line, Width of gap between breast, Vertical distance of Bust. 2. The changes in the surface area and volume of breast at each motion By making the replica to observe changes in the surface area, which are sectioned to 4 parts(area 1 to area 4) , and volume of breast at each motion, the results are as follows: At 0$^{\circ}$ and 90$^{\circ}$, the sizes of each part are ordered as the following: area2> areal> area4> area3. At 180$^{\circ}$, the sizes of each part are ordered as the following: areal> area2> area4> area3. Through these orders, it is found that the upper and inside part of the breast has the inclination to increase so long as the motions of the arm movement increase. Also, the total surface area increases so long as the motions of the arm movement increase. The volume of the breast increase when the surface area of the breast increases. As a result of the F-test on the changes in the each surface areas, the surface area and volume by arm movements, the significant differences among the each surface areas and the surface area are not found.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.99-106
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• 2006

With the growing interest in pet dogs and pet dog's wear I used this study to compare and analyze the pattern used by each supplier and developed a new pattern for pet dogs' wear which is appropriate for pet dogs' body lines and movement. Test subjects were 91 pet dogs in Busan and after comparing 3 patterns from different suppliers, I developed the pattern reflecting pet dogs' body shapes and movement. Results are as follows; 1) As a result of analyzing measurements, it was found that pet dogs motion in walking on four feet, is different from that of people on two feet. For center measurements, their waist to bust length is longer than their waist to back length. The result of analysis shows that bust circumference impacts most other measurement results and it seems that better results are achieved if the bust line is taken into consideration when measuring bust back length, bust front length, neck base circumference, front leg arc, the length between lateral shoulder etc. 2) As a result of comparing suppliers' patterns, it was discovered that each supplier has different sizes for the same patterns and those sizes are not standardized across the board. Even if the same size of pattern was actually used in the production of pet dogs' wear by the individual companies, there were many variations in size for each item. 3) To develop a more standard pattern of pet dogs' wear, I collected and analyzed 3 patterns from each supplier and designed a new pattern, revising it three times. After test-wearing of the experimental pattern and the studied patterns, and comparing and analyzing the results, the studied pattern had similarly better estimation than the experimental one.