• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.384-395
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• 2020

Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions, such as sediment transport, longshore currents, and shock wave pressure. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker index such as breaking wave height and breaking depth, when designing coastal structures. Numerous scientific efforts have been made in the past by many researchers to identify and predict the breaking phenomenon. Representative studies on wave breaking provide many empirical formulas for the prediction of breaking index, mainly through hydraulic model experiments. However, the existing empirical formulas for breaking index determine the coefficients of the assumed equation through statistical analysis of data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this paper, we applied a representative linear-based supervised machine learning algorithms that show high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification problems. Based on the used machine learning methods, a model for prediction of the breaking index is developed from previously published experimental data on the breaking wave, and a new linear equation for prediction of breaker index is presented from the trained model. The newly proposed breaker index formula showed similar predictive performance compared to the existing empirical formula, although it was a simple linear equation.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.165-172
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• 2021

Breaking wave is one of the important design factors in the design of coastal and port structures as they are directly related to various physical phenomena occurring on the coast, such as onshore currents, sediment transport, shock wave pressure, and energy dissipation. Due to the inherent complexity of the breaking wave, many empirical formulas have been proposed to predict breaker indices such as wave breaking height and breaking depth using hydraulic models. However, the existing empirical equations for breaker indices mainly were proposed via statistical analysis of experimental data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this study, a new Munk-type empirical equation was proposed to predict the height of breaking waves based on a representative linear supervised machine learning technique with high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification challenges. Although the newly proposed breaker height formula was a simple polynomial equation, its predictive performance was comparable to that of the currently available empirical formula.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.37-49
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• 2024

To date, numerous empirical formulas have been proposed through hydraulic model experiments to predict the wave breaker index, including wave height and depth of wave breaking, due to the inherent complexity of generation mechanisms. Unfortunately, research on the characteristics of wave breaking and the prediction of the wave breaker index for gravel beaches has been limited. This study aims to forecast the wave breaker index for gravel beaches using representative linear-based machine learning techniques known for their high predictive performance in regression or classification problems across various research fields. Initially, the applicability of existing empirical formulas for wave breaker indices to gravel seabeds was assessed. Various linear-based machine learning algorithms were then employed to build prediction models, aiming to overcome the limitations of existing empirical formulas in predicting wave breaker indices for gravel seabeds. Among the developed machine learning models, a new calculation formula for easily computable wave breaker indices based on the model was proposed, demonstrating high predictive performance for wave height and depth of wave breaking on gravel beaches. The study validated the predictive capabilities of the proposed wave breaker indices through hydraulic model experiments and compared them with existing empirical formulas. Despite its simplicity as a polynomial, the newly proposed empirical formula for wave breaking indices in this study exhibited exceptional predictive performance for gravel beaches.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.163-169
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• 1991

Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).