• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.215-227
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• 2019

This study develops a post-operative brassiere suitable for changed breast shapes and the characteristics of breast augmentation patients. Six subjects who experienced breast augmentation surgery with a cup size of C or D cup participated in the wearing test. We conducted a wearing test to evaluate the superiority of the developed post-operative bra. As a result, the evaluation of the developed bra was excellent in the outer cup, outer circle of breast front gore, shoulder straps and the wing pressures. Second the satisfaction of the developed brassiere was high in the front center part, and in the evaluation of wearing satisfaction of the subjects; in addition, the degree of close contact with the cup, flexibility, touch, and overall evaluation. The satisfaction of the developed bra was also higher than a commercial bra. Third, the developed bra proved superior in the adaptability test, such as prevention of breast shaking, prevention of bra and breast separation during movements, and ease of body movement.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.189-206
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• 2016

A breast model was for the human body was devised by studying a body scan and human body index of a desirable breast type. Thus, when manufacturing various 3D models, these results can accordingly become a fundamental basis for realizing a desirable breast model. This study aims to provide a basic data for designing the cup patterns of brassieres in order to improve the function and wearing comfort. The comfort of three kinds of brassieres were compared: one manufactured by the actual measured size; another manufactured as per the ratio of desirable upper and lower breast lengths; and the third manufactured by the 3D model attained by the desirable human body ratio. In this study, we suggest a process for realizing the desirable breast model using the ratio of bust breadth and waist front length, which are the components for deciding the appropriate position and size of breast, and which are easy to measure. The ideal breast shape is an equilateral triangle formed by connecting the nipple with the center of the clavicle. After deciding the interval between the nipples, this value can be used to configure the locations of nipples by drawing a tangent, with equal length, from the anterior neck point (which is the center of clavicle) to the nipple. Also, since inside points of breast do not exist, the outer point of breast, upper point of breast, and below point of breast on the same plane, and the depths from the nipple point to the respective points, are applied to simulate a 3D image, by modifications along the x, y, and z axes. Depending on the type of breast, the length from the center of shoulder to the nipple, the diameter of breast, upper length of breast, and the position of nipple, are different. In conical or protruding breast, the wearing sensation is better when the nipple point of brassiere was lifted, by modifying the upper and lower lengths of breast. Considering the wearing sensation and function of a brassiere, it was better to leave the wearer's size as it is and use a pad within the same cup, rather than increase the basal area of the breast in order to increase the volume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2018

This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.280-291
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• 2013

This paper analyzes desirable breast types using measurements from 31 selected female subjects based on the ratio of breast in works of art and to design a brassiere cup design according to the breast type of 182 female subjects in their 20s. The subjects selected for this paper are somewhat larger than a previous study on aesthetically perfect breasts of foreigners according to chest breadth, center neck point to breast point, breast circumference, and breast volume. However, the aesthetic breasts of foreigners are larger than the subjects selected for this study according to chest depth, under-bust circumference, and bust point to bust point. Comparing various breasts types and aesthetic breasts, padding is necessary to complement the form of flat breasts to increase the volume and diameter. Brassiere cups for cone-shaped breasts should be designed to increase breast volume through an increase in nipple height. Hemisphere breasts should be designed to increase the overall volume-leaving diameter. Protrusion breasts should enhance the functions of aggregating and supporting without any increase or decrease of the breast volume. Drooping breasts require the ability to support a large volume to stabilize the breast. Subjects were selected depending on the ratio of breast silhouette as works of art and who have large breasts in disproportional to a slender trunk. Three items, the circumferential length of breast, height of the nipple, and the depth of inner breast using the anthropomorphic measurements of 182 subjects were measured through regression equations for breast volume. Breast volume = -394.86 + 27.52 ${\times}$ (the circumferential length of breast) + 18.73 ${\times}$ (height of the nipple) + 12.85 ${\times}$ (the depth of inner breast). Regression equations to extract the aesthetic breast volume in measurements irrelevant to breasts using the anthropomorphic measurements of 31 subjects were as follows. Aesthetic breast volume = -611.30 + 17.67 ${\times}$ (bust circumference) -24.29 ${\times}$ (under-bust circumference) + 16.31 ${\times}$ (neck point to breast point to waistline) + 22.83 ${\times}$ (bust breadth) + 12.22 ${\times}$ (waist depth) -8.34 ${\times}$ (interscye- front). This prediction equation is useful to develop a breast type brassiere pattern, complement breast enhancement surgery, or minimize the effect a mastectomy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.152-166
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.488-501
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• 2008

The purpose of this study presents bra pattern using the 3D measurements of the upper body subject to women in their 30's. Brassieres available in the market are mostly designed for straight body shape and many women seem to have experienced bearing discomfort in a great extent as they grow older. Brassieres should be designed to cover diverse body types and the accurate measurement of body type and breast shape is needed to accomplish that. As for the study method, 3D human body types were analyzed with RapidForm 2006, and the upper-body types and breast shapes were statistically classified through technical statistics analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, variance analysis, and cross analysis. The wearing tests went through the comparison of the brassieres of three makers in the market and the experiment brassieres(first and second) and then the evaluations were made by the subjects, the outer appearance assessment by experts, and 3D measurements. The results of this study showed that the evaluation of experiment brassieres was excellent in every item, and the significant difference was found out particularly in the items of pressure, rear center, front center, breast underneath, adequate level by wing, and adequate level by armhole. According to the results of 3D evaluation, experiment brassieres had a highest point in fitness with no physical pressure at the wing part and no overall deviation at the cup part.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.621-634
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• 2012

With comparative analysis of running-type brassieres on the market about suitability for middle-aged women, this study is to provide basic data of running-type brassieres' pattern which is highly suitable. In the pursuit of this purpose, this study carried out wearing experiment targeting 3 middle-aged women with normal body shape which is 85B of chest circumference. The result is as follows. The significant difference was recognized in the breast. The products were rated in order of C>A>B>D, E, F, G>H by the observers, and C>B>D>A>F>E=G>H by the subjects. The significant difference was recognized in the armhole area. The products were ranked in the order of C, D>B, G, E>A, F, H by the observes and D, C>B>G>F>A>H by the subjects. The significant difference was also recognized in 6 categories(14~19) for the torso. According to the overall average values, the products were rated in the order of B, C, D>A, D, F, G by the observers and B=D>C>H>F>G>A>E by the subjects. The overall evaluation exhibited the significant difference. The products were ranked in the order of D>C>E>B>H>A>G>F by both observers and subjects. Therefore it was confirmed that the product D was appropriate in general. To conclude of comparative analysis about 8 kinds of running-type brassieres on the market, the average values of the product C and D in all categories had high marks for each category. The product C was comfortable and capable of covering the breast well, however, a gap was formed in outside-up part. The product D, made from lacy fabric, was very comfortable and well-fitted but there was inconsistency between the mold-cup and the breast shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.786-794
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze and classify breast shape of women aged 11~15 using 3D body scan data. In this study, 250 women's body scans were selected from the 6th Size Korea dataset, and 30 items from each of the scan were measured using RapidForm XOR 3 program. The principal component analysis and cluster analysis were conducted using statistical program SPSS 17.0. The five principal components were identified; breast drooping and breast capacity, size from chest to under bust area, breast protrusion, breast height, and under breast angle & outer distance of breast. As the results of cluster analysis, woman's breast types were classified into four types. The breast type 1 was protrusion type (25.1%) which is considered as the breast maturity stage. The breast type 2 had the most drooped breast covering a large area (20.2%). The breast type 3 had the least prominent breast with a highest nipple point, which was considered as the early breast development stage (38.9%). The breast type 4 had the obesity of the chest and breast circumferences with the slightly prominent and the least drooped breast (15.8%). This study can provide fundamental information to develop sizing system and brassiere pattern for junior girls.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.960-967
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• 2012

The study aims to design the corset type long-line bra patterns that compensate part-somatotype of women in their 20s. The corset type long-line research bra patterns consist of 4 sections: cup, front bodice, back bodice, and shoulder strap. The full cup is made up of 2 lower part pieces and 1 upper part piece, and the shoulder strap is 16 millimeters wide. The method to design the patterns is shown in figure 4 and figure 5. The result of wearing test showed that, while the wearing testers recognized some significant differences in 19 out of 26 criteria, the examiners did in 17 out of 23. The criteria more than 1 in an average value between research bras and commercial bras were 'appropriateness of breadth of shoulder strap', 'appropriateness of pressure of armhole circumference'. 'appropriateness of pressure of waist', 'suitability of side line and body curve', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of chest circumference', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of upper part line', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of bottom part line', and 'satisfaction of whole silhouette of side and back'. The research and commercial bras were evaluated 4.23 and 3.44 respectively by the testers, and 4.25 and 3.40 by the examiners. The former ones were scored higher by both parties. They were also appreciated higher in general silhouettes of fitting and appearance.