• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.57-67
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• 1982

The purpose of this study was to improve the clothing life of the children between the nine to twelve by making a scientific and rational basic bodice pattern. The comparison of the eight pattern drafting currently used in Korea was referred in order to make new basic pattern. Three hundred fifty-two subjects from 9 to 12 years old in Seoul area were measured on 19 items. The measurements (24 items including 19 measured items and 5 drafted items that were difficult to measure) were analyzed by mean values and correlation coefficients between each item. This new pattern attempted to set the ease for clothing from experiments of the changes of body surface in motion. On the basis of the above results, a new bodice basic pattern was developed and tested with wearing three times. Through the experiments in measuring the changes of the body surface in motion, it was concluded that it desirable to set a standard of 12cm clothing ease on the bust circumference and 4cm on the waist circumference. The correlation coefficient of the tack width to across back was relatively high (r= .677), therefore, the latter measuring items were eliminated. A grading method was adopted to determine the width and depth of neckline and shoulder slope.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.367-378
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to utilize of the CAD system in pattern making process for women's bodice sloper, especially in education of the drafting. Accumark 540 System was used for this study. The drafting program was developed by the use of macro program in CAD system. The results from this study : 1. The Lim Won Ja's system of bodice sloper was selected in this study. The hand drafting of the system was arranged developing the macro program of bodice sloper. 2. The program consists of eight subprograms I sequence of the drafting order. In running this developed program, proper figure is drafted by inputing data. And the drafting process is automatically presented in interactive mode. 3. It has been developed to input the function of French Curve Ruler to increase the effectiveness of curved line treatment. The program can also be used in the curve part to present the manualy sensible function. 4. In case of education of drafting bodice sloper, the program provides the high accuracy, efficiency and a strong interest nterest in pattern making process by utilizing CAD system.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.347-353
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a suitable basic bodice pattern of Male Sports Athletes by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; 1. By using 3D virtual twin and garment simulation, new bodice pattern considered male sports athletes was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; surplus of chest girth=9, surplus of back length=1, armhole depth=back length/4+13, half back width=chest girth/5+2.5, front chest width=chest girth/5+3. 2. Wearing test by 3D virtual garment simulation system was useful to evaluate wearing outline, surplus of clothes and garment space. Also it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new bodice pattern is appropriate for the male sports athletes. New bodice pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of chest and waist. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D Pattern Production Program development.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.176-183
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• 1997

To develop the bodice pattern of the master size of the established size chart which was suggested in the former studies, the wearing experiment was practiced. According to the result, developed pattern design in this study boys\` bodily characteristics were reflected fully. And especially, New pattern design method was suggested at chest circumference, neck circumference, arm circumference, chest breadth, and center front line. The study results were put into the database in order to apply apparel CAD system, and they could be easily used in standardization work of design pattern.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.969-977
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• 2007

The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.468-479
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• 2019

This study used a three-dimensional-analysis method to quantitatively analyze the change of clothing appearance according to a gusset added to bodice and sleeve patterns for men in their twenties. Comparing six different patterns, the study found that patterns P1 and P2 with little gusset did not have a large difference in the strain map, and pattern P6 had no gusset in the motion of raising the arm $28^{\circ}$ to the side (M1). When the arm was raised $45^{\circ}$ to the side (M2), the P1 pattern had the smallest deformation, and only the P5 pattern had a large deformation from the neck to the armhole area. In contrast, except for in the P3 pattern, large wrinkles formed in the front and back when the arm was raised above $158^{\circ}$ (M3) from the side of the waist to the armpit. In addition, P3 had the smallest change in the hem of the bodice and sleeves. However, the appearance of P2, P3, and P5 was excellent when the arm was moved forward (M4), and the P2 and P5 patterns were the smallest at the bodice and sleeve hem. The P6 pattern showed the least fitness in terms of function. In the case of raising the arm, there was a strong correlation between gusset size and motion function, but when the motion of the arm changed, the motion function did not improved just by changing the ease size.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.157-164
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze bust point information presented in literature and the 8th Korean Anthropometric Survey (Size Korea 2021) as a basis for pattern making for Korean adult women. Therefore, the the bust point position was analyzed through the length from the side neckline to the bust point and the horizontal length from the bust point to the chest. The results are as follows. First, Size Korea's population shows an increase in bust circumference and Side Neck Point to Bust Point with age, with the largest Bust-Point Breadth in the 30s, followed by the 20s, 40s, 60s, and 50s. Second, the Bust-Point Breadth in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee, which were created from the bust circumference measurements of Size Korea's population, was wider than the measurements, and the difference was verified as a highly significant. Third, in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee created with the bust circumference dimensions of Size Korea's population, the length of Neck Point to Bust Point was shorter than the measured value, and the difference was highly significant. Fourth, the Bust-Point Breadth and Neck Point to Bust Point in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee, which were created with the bust circumference of the population of Size Korea by age, were analyzed in different age groups and showed significant differences from the measurements of Size Korea.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.91-102
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to develop an excellent bodice prototype that is adapted to the body shape of middle-aged women using 3D measurement data. In the evaluation of appearance, S pattern 4.00, B pattern 2.80, E pattern 2.40, L pattern 1.40 were shown in order, and the best fit of S pattern was evaluated as excellent. As a result of looking at the color distribution chart to find out the amount, E pattern and S pattern were not space in the front bust, armhole, and the back waist line. The B pattern and the L pattern were marked in blue because of insufficiency space in the back neck. As a result of evaluation the amount of air gap in the clothing, the air gap of the bust was 0.12, which is the largest pattern of B. Next, the L pattern appears as a tight circle with smallest air gap in the order of the S pattern 0.096, the E pattern 0.08, and the L pattern 0.003. The S pattern was evaluated to be the most appropriate for the body shape of middle-aged women. But the waist and back were slightly tight. Middle-aged women have larger shoulder-related items and larger waist circumference. Therefore, when you set the perimeter item, you should add 1-2cm of space amount and give extra space to the circumference area.