• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.121-137
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• 2020

This thesis makes it an aim to develop designs of Shinhanbok coats interpreting and applying the formative structure of the lattice window pattern in Huijeongdang of the Changdeokgung palace, one of the best architecture in Chosun dynasty. Literature review about the history and characteristics of the window of Huijeongdang of the Changdeokgung palace was performed on the basis of the internet resources and papers, and the examples of the fashion design applying the lattice window patterns were analyzed. Then, three style Shinhanbok coats were designed and presented with making use of 6 kind of lattice window patterns as its motif. The coats were designed in flexible size, attempting to clad any kind of body size and shapes. Design 1 drawn from Wanjasal, Tisal, Design 2 drawn from Ajasal, Yongjasal, Tisal, design 3 drawn from Bitsal, Jungjasal. In conclusion, lattice window patterns of the traditional beauty highlighted in view of modern times might be suggested as the motif for expressing the proportion with balance and rhythm with stability. The division of the space with the line was tried with the technique of the bias cutting, stitching and taping with the design of simplicity signified in the aesthetics of the vacant space in addition to its ornamental effects. Thus, this study would like to contribute to the popularity of the Shinhanbok outlined in modern application and unique taste through the study and applications of the traditional lattice window pattern of Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1510-1519
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• 2007

This comparative study analyzes and compares tight skirt sewing methods which are found in the clothing configuration reference text books available in contemporary universities and which are used in commercially-available domestic consumer products. The study samples included 15 text books and 12 tight skirt consumer products of different brands on sale at three department stores in Seoul each of which had a belt, a back-centered zipper, and back double slits. The findings of the study are summarized as follows: First, text books mainly show very basic sewing methods of using zippers on both sides of the straight-lined waist belt. This indicates that it is necessary for such methods to be complemented so that they cover a recent variety of designs, materials, and sewing machines. For consumer products, the main sewing method is to use a curved waist belt and a console zipper in silhouette running across half the hipbone. Second, consumer products employ three different types of cutting and sewing methods for putting an inseam on the center of the back slit part: to leave the whole inseam hemmed in the back center, to cut the left side of the inseam to the upper part of the back slit, and to cut the inseam to both the upper parts of the back slit. However, a method shown in most of the sampled text books is to cut the inseam of the back center to both the upper parts of the back slit. Third, the way of finishing a bottom edge hem in the text books is to do slip-stitch, herringbone stitch, and slinting hemming, in order after doing over-lock stitch, or to cut the hem on the bias and then slip-stitch, while for the consumer products the most frequently used sewing method is to finish the bottom edge hem by doing secoui-stitch. Finally, while in the text books the method of stitching darts and tucks is used for lining, the main lining method used in consumer products is to make tucks only. Also in the way of stitching the side seams of lining or the seams of the back center, there is a difference between the two sample groups of text books and the consumer products: while the former suggests using both open seams and over-lock stitch, the latter is found to finish the seams using an over-lock stitch only.