• Water for future
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.355-364
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• 1986

This research was carried out to decide both in the field and the laboratory the similarity between the erosion and the accretion in the change of the beach profile. The results obtained were as follows: (1) It was impossible to decide only by C value the similarity between the erosion and the accretion of the actual beach by application of Horikawa's theory. (2) It was difficult to decide the similarity only by values of $H_//L_0$ formula. (3) Observation of dimensionless value of $H_//L_0$ and C, $H_//L_0$ and $L_{sr}$ in the field and the laboratory showed that there was a similarity between the erosion and the accretion which set in at 0.024 of $H_//L_0$. (4) The Knowlege of the wave steepness would help to discriminate the erosion and the accretion.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2012

The cross-shore sediment transport in a coastal region causes the important changes in beach morphological properties. The accurate estimation of the cross-shore sediment transport is important for the designing of the marine structures such as seawalls, jetties, breakwaters etc, and the preventing coastal erosion and accretion due to on-off shore sediment transportation. In this study, the experiments on cross- shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial beach slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and the parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials having medium diameters of $d_{50}$=0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. The experimental results obtained from this study compared with previous experimental work and found to be of the same magnitude as the experimental measurements and followed the expected basic trend.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.101-109
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• 2008

Several numerical models for predicting beach profile changes have been developed by many researchers. Many of the earlier models are known to simulate the erosional profiles with the formation of offshore bar. However, most of the models don't have proper mechanism to incorporate the recovery process of the eroded profiles after a storm and can not simulate the beach accretion with acceptable accuracy. In order to overcome these shortcomings, we propose a new numerical model which has new features to simulate the accretional phase of beach recovery process after storm including such as redistribution of suspended sand particles near the breaking point. The simulation results of the proposed model were compared with LWT (Large Wave Tank) experiments performed at CRIEPI (Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry in Japan) and CE (the Us Army Corps of Engineers) and it was shown to have performed better compared to SBEACH (Storm-induced BEAch CHange).

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.251-269
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• 2022

The process-based XBeach model has numerous empirical parameters because of insufficient understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the nearshore; hence, it is necessary to calibrate parameters to apply to various study areas and wave conditions. Therefore, the calibration process of parameters is essential for the improvement of model performance. Generally, the trial-and-error method is widely used; however, this method is passive and limited to various and comprehensive parameter ranges. In this study, the Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) method was used to estimate the optimal range of three parameters (gamma, facua, and gamma2) using morphological field data collected in Maengbang beach during the four typhoons that struck from September to October 2019. The model performance and optimal range of empirical parameters were evaluated using Brier Skill Score (BSS) along with the baseline profiles, sensitivity, and likelihood density analysis of BSS in the GLUE tools. Accordingly, the optimal parameter combinations were derived when facua was less than 0.15 and simulated well the shifting shape, from crescentic sand bar to alongshore uniform sand bars in the surf zone of Maengbang beach after storm impact. However, the erosion and accretion patterns nearby in the surf zone and shoreline remain challenges in the XBeach model.

• Journal of the Korean Association of Geographic Information Studies
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.186-195
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• 2005

Topography of beach line is keeping stability for several years, their soil values have been maintained in balances. Install of coastal structures have caused deformation for beaches and acted as a function to structures. Therefore, quantitative prediction of beaches topography according to structure install is required to prevent the beaches deformation and progress proper coastal preservation work. In this study, we analyzed coastal changes caused by erosion and accretion according to development and drew up a cross-section to share 8 stations using coordinates and depth surveying in groin of Soheuksan island port. Elevation distribution and changes by observation period is calculated -0.30m~+0.20m after comparing results of five months in October 7, 2004 surveying results and fell into insignificance. We thinks periodic observation of coastal erosion and accretion take place for the season and long-term coastal changes in beaches width is analyzed.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.305-313
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• 2008

Recently it was known that the problems of nearshore processes and damage of berth and counter facilities frequently had appeared at the small fishery port, such as Daebang near Samcheonpo city, Korea. Here we try to analyze the impact of the rearrangement of counter facilities and berth layout adopted for tranquility of its inner harbor. Because this harbor is being connected to Daebang channel, the rearrangement of the structures might affect to the current speed and direction and wave height, so do to the sea bottom undulation. Therefore, we made model test for the several layouts of the berth and breakwater in this area. Numerical model result shows that the bottom was eroded by 1m by tidal currents and the speed of flow did not shrink, even after the construction work was completed. The direction of the sand movement was downdrift. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and approach channel sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to compare with the field history, including the records of waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.446-457
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• 2020

Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.296-304
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• 2010

The shoreline change caused by the construction of shore protection structures are discussed based on the example of Youngrang coast, Sokcho where the coastal erosion control system(CECS), three artificial headlands and two submerged breakwaters are being constructed. The study qualitatively analyzed the shoreline changes of Youngrang coast using available satellite/aerial photographs and camera photographs taken during the construction period of 6 years since 2002 for the artificial headlands construction. The main results from the study are as following. (1) Before the installation of the middle artificial headland, longshore drifts along Youngrang coast are transported in the NW-SE direction according to the seasonally different wave characteristics. (2) During the CECS construction the shoreline is continuously changed by altering the local longshore drift budget. Especially, the middle artificial headland induces considerable change of shoreline by blocking the sediment supply from the southern pocket beach to the northern pocket beach and by accelerating the sediment accretion at the wave shadow zone behind its head. It induces the asymmetry on the net longshore drift causing the significant erosion at the center of the southern pocket beach. (3) The study demonstrates that serious unintended erosion/accretion problem are possibly occurred due to local changes on the wave transformation and the sediment transport by the construction of coastal erosion control system.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.333-342
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• 2017

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.44-51
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• 2008

The planning and design of coastal structures against wave attack is required to accurately predict wave transformation, wave run-up, and fluid. particlevelocities an a slope. On tire other hand, in tire swash and surf zones of a natural beach, where coastal erosion and accretion occur at tire land-sea boundary, hydrodynamic analysis is essential. In this study, a RBREAK2 numerical model was created based on the nonlinear shallow water equation and laboratory measurements were carried out in terms of tire free surface elevations and velocities for tire cases of regular and irregular waves on 1 : 10 and 1 : 5 impermeable slopes. The data were used to evaluate tire applicability and limitations of tire RBREAK2 numerical model. The numerical mode1 could predict tire cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably well, but showed more accurate results for slopes that were steeper than 1 : 10. Except near tire wave crest, tire computed depth averaged velocities could represent tire measured profile below tire trough level fairly well.