• Title/Summary/Keyword: bathymetry

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BATHYMETRIC MODULATION ON WAVE SPECTRA

  • Liu, Cho-Teng;Doong, Dong-Jiing
    • Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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    • 2008.10a
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    • pp.344-347
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    • 2008
  • Ocean surface waves may be modified by ocean current and their observation may be severely distorted if the observer is on a moving platform with changing speed. Tidal current near a sill varies inversely with the water depth, and results spatially inhomogeneous modulation on the surface waves near the sill. For waves propagating upstream, they will encounter stronger current before reaching the sill, and therefore, they will shorten their wavelength with frequency unchanged, increase its amplitude, and it may break if the wave height is larger than 1/7 of the wavelength. These small scale (${\sim}$ 1 km changes is not suitable for satellite radar observation. Spatial distribution of wave-height spectra S(x, y) can not be acquired from wave gauges that are designed for collecting 2-D wave spectra at fixed locations, nor from satellite radar image which is more suitable for observing long swells. Optical images collected from cameras on-board a ship, over high-ground, or onboard an unmanned auto-piloting vehicle (UAV) may have pixel size that is small enough to resolve decimeter-scale short gravity waves. If diffuse sky light is the only source of lighting and it is uniform in camera-viewing directions, then the image intensity is proportional to the surface reflectance R(x, y) of diffuse light, and R is directly related to the surface slope. The slope spectrum and wave-height spectra S(x, y) may then be derived from R(x, y). The results are compared with the in situ measurement of wave spectra over Keelung Sill from a research vessel. The application of this method is for analysis and interpretation of satellite images on studies of current and wave interaction that often require fine scale information of wave-height spectra S(x, y) that changes dynamically with time and space.

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Estimating Spatial and Vertical Distribution of Seagrass Habitats Using Hydroacoustic System (수중음향을 이용한 해초 서식처(Seagrass Habitats)의 공간 및 수직 분포 추정)

  • Kang, Don-Hyung;Cho, Sung-Ho;La, Hyoung-Sul;Kim, Jong-Man;Na, Jung-Yul;Myoung, Jung-Goo
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • v.28 no.3
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    • pp.225-236
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    • 2006
  • Seagrass meadows are considered as critical habitats for a wide variety of marine organisms in coastal and estuarine ecosystems. In many cases, studies on the spatial/temporal distribution of seagrass have depended on direct observations using SCUBA diving. As an alternative method fur studying seagrass distribution, an application of hydroacoustic technique has been assessed for mapping seagrass distribution in Dongdae Bay, on the south coast of Korea, in September 2005. Data were collected using high frequency transducer (420 kHz split-beam), which was installed with towed body system. The system was linked to DGPS to make goo-referenced data. Additionally, in situ seagrass distribution has been observed using underwater cameras and SCUBA diving at four stations in order to compare with acoustic data. Acoustic survey was conducted along 23 transects with 3-4 blot ship speed. Seagrass beds were vertically limited to depths less than 3.5m and seagrass height ranged between 55 and 90cm at the study sites. Dense seagmss beds were mainly found at the entrance of the bay and at a flat area around the center of the bay. Although the study area was a relatively small, the vertical and spatial distributions of the seagrass were highly variable with bathymetry and region. Considering dominant species, Zostera marina L., preliminary estimation of seagrass biomass with acoustic and direct sampling data was approximately $56.55g/m^2$, and total biomass of 104 tones (coefficient variation: 25.77%) was estimated at the study area. Hydroacoustic method provided valuable information to understand distribution pattern and to estimate seagrass biomass.

Bathymetry and Marine Geophysical Observations of the Ayu Trough, Southern Philippine Sea: Implications for Crustal Extension and Structure (남부 필리핀해 Ayu Trough에서의 지형과 선상지구물리 관측: 지각 확장과 구조 고찰)

  • Jung, Mee-Sook;Lee, Sang-Mook
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.179-187
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    • 2002
  • The Ayu Trough, located in the southern end of the Philippine Sea, represents a divergent boundary between the Philippine Sea and the Caroline Plates. A detailed geophysical survey was carried out in the Ayu Trough by R/V Onnuri. Topographically, the Ayu Trough resembles an slow spreading ridge. The trough can be divided into three sections: the south $(0^{\circ}-1^{\circ}30'N),\;middle\;(1^{\circ}30'-4^{\circ}N)$, and north $(4^{\circ}-6^{\circ}30'N)$. The seafloor in the middle section is characterized by features asymmetric with respect to the axis. These features were probably produced by NW-SE and NNW-SSE extensions and seem to support the argument that the opening of the Ayu Trough occurred in an oblique fashion. Farther south, a long transform fault but with a short offset defines the boundary between middle and southern sections. The axial depth increases a stepwise to the south of $1^{\circ}30'N$. A clear difference can be seen between the southern and middle sections with the latter exhibiting much higher mantle Bouguer anomaly values in the axial region. The anomaly indicates that the axial crust perhaps experienced a much higher degree of extension in the middle than in the southern section. The analyses of magnetic field data reveal that the region beyond 100km exhibits considerable variations, whereas the magnetic anomalies within 100km from the trough axis are very much subdued. This observation suggests that the opening of the Ayu Trough involved an initial stage of rifting of existing volcanic arcs, followed by production of new seafloor.

Near-Infrared Spectral Characteristics in Presence of Sun Glint Using CASI-1500 Data in Shallow Waters

  • Jeon, Joo-Young;Kim, Sun-Hwa;Yang, Chan-Su
    • Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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    • v.31 no.4
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    • pp.281-291
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    • 2015
  • Sun glint correction methods of hyperspectral data that have been developed so far have not considered the various situations and are often adequate for only certain conditions. Also there is an inaccurate assumption that the signal in NIR wavelength is zero. Therefore, this study attempts to analyze the NIR spectral properties of sun glint effect in coastal waters. For the analysis, CASI-1500 airborne hyperspectral data, bathymetry data and in-situ data obtained at coastal area near Sin-Cheon, Jeju Island, South Korea were used. The spectral characteristics of radiance and reflectance at the five NIR wavelengths (744 nm, 758 nm, 772 nm, 786 nm, and 801 nm) are analyzed by using various statistics, spatial and spectral variation of sun-glinted area under conditions of the bottom types of benthos, barren rocks and sand with similar water depth. Through the quantitative analysis, we found that the relation of water depth or bottom type with sun glint is relatively less which is a similar result with the previous studies. However the sun glint are distributed similarly with the patterns of the direction of wave propagation. It is confirmed that the areas with changed direction of wave propagation were not affected by the sun glint. The spatial and spectral variations of radiance and reflectance are mainly caused by the effect of sun glint and waves. The radiance or reflectance of more sun-glinted areas are increased approximately 1.5 times and the standard deviations are also increased three times compared to the less sun glinted areas. Through this study, the further studies of sun glint correction method in coastal water using the patterns of wave propagation and diffraction will be placed.

Mitigation for the anti-function in caused by Saemangeum reclamation (새만금간척에 따른 미티게이션)

  • 신문섭
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Agricultural Engineers Conference
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    • 1999.10c
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    • pp.169-174
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    • 1999
  • The reclamation area of Saemangeum (Kunsan) located between 126$^{\circ}$10' -126$^{\circ}$50'E and and 35$^{\circ}$35'N -36$^{\circ}$05'N at the western coast of Korea. The construction of the 33km sea dike is building in the Saemangeum area. When the construction of the sea dike in the coastal region takes plase, there exists a certain amount of soil which is diffused by the tidal current. Behavior of the soil diffusion usually depends on its intrinsic characteristics, bathymetry, construction method and used mchinery. The amount of soil at the construction acts as a pollutant which is the cause of changing the marine environment. When the soil material is diffused , it may form a layer which obstructs the light passing into the sea and causes the extinction or alteration of the living beings on the sea bottom. The settlement of soil material could change the sea bottom deposit. The purpose of MITIGATION is to harmonize the development and the conservation of environment, to restrict environmental destruction and to reproduce the enviroment damaged by the construction in the coastal region. The purpose of this study is to find the method by which we minimize the anti-function of development in the coastal region. Tide and tidal current are calculated using a two-dimensional numerical model before the construction of sea dike in Saemangeum Bay. The numerical results are compared well with field observations. On the basis of these results, we caculated the tide and tidal current after the construction of the sea dike in order to investigate the change of the tide and tidal current after the construction of the sea dike. Moreover, we calculated the tide and tidal current after the construction of submerged breakwater in order to preserve the enviornmental condition of creature habitat . We compared the tide and tidal current before and after the construction of submerbed breakwater, to investigate the possbility of MITIGATION in the fisheries.

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Application and Analysis of the Steady State Spectral Wave Model for Coastal Waters at Busan New Port Site (부산신항만수역에서 정상상태 스펙트럼 파랑모델의 적용 및 분석)

  • 이학승;이우철;황호동;양상용;이중우
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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    • 2003.05a
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    • pp.157-164
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    • 2003
  • Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

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Characteristics of Wave-induced Currents using the SWASH Model in Haeundae Beach (SWASH 모형을 이용한 해운대 해수욕장의 해빈류 특성)

  • Kang, Min Ho;Kim, Jin Seok;Park, Jung Kyu;Lee, Jong Sup
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.27 no.6
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    • pp.382-390
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    • 2015
  • To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

Precise Tidal Simulation on the Yellow Sea and Extended to North Western Pacific Sea (황해 및 북서태평양 확장해역 정밀조석모의)

  • Suh, Seung-Won;Kim, Hyeon-Jeong
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.23 no.3
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    • pp.205-214
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    • 2011
  • Finite element grid refinements with different intensities having 14 K, 52 K and 211 K on the Yellow Sea (YS) have been constructed to make precise tidal simulations. In the meanwhile 57 K grid was made to the extended North Western Pacific (NWP) sea. Numerical simulation were done based on 32 parallel processors by using pADCIRC v 49.21 model. In the YS tidal simulation on YS-G52K and YS-G211K grid structure, KorBathy30s and ETOPO1 bathymetry data are used and 4 major tidal constituents are prescribed from FES2004. Computed results are in good agreement within 0.138 meter in RMS error for amplification and 14.80 degree of phase compared to observed tidal records. Similar error bounds are acquired in the extended NWP tidal simulation on NWP-G57K grid with 8 tidal constituent prescription on the open boundary.

Development of Post-processing Algorithms for Assessment of River Bed Change and Water Storage using ADCP Bathymetry Measurements (ADCP 수심계측자료 활용 하상변동 및 저류량 계산 알고리즘 개발)

  • Kim, Dong-Su
    • Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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    • 2012.05a
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    • pp.180-180
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    • 2012
  • ADCP는 3차원 유속과 수심을 관측하여 유량을 정확하게 계산하는 데 널리 이용되고 있는 최신계측기기로 국내에서도 유량조사사업단 등 기관에 도입되어 수위-유량관계곡선식의 보정 등에 적용되고 있다. 하지만 ADCP 관측값 중 수심관측 자료를 별도로 활용하는 부분도 많은 관심을 받고 있다. 특히 최근 4대강 사업으로 인한 하상변동 측정에 기존 유량관측용으로 구매된 ADCP를 수심관측용으로 활용할 수 있다. ADCP는 일정한 각도로 경사진 4개의 초음파 빔을 활용하여 사선 방향으로 수심을 각각 관측한다. 최근에는 별도의 수심관측용의 수직 빔을 추가 설치하여 한번 관측에 초당 5개 지점의 수심을 동시에 관측할 수 있어 수심관측용으로도 기존 단독빔 음향측심기에 비해 효율적으로 수심을 관측할 수 있다. 그리고 ADCP는 GPS와 연동되어 수심관측의 3차원 공간정보 (x, y, z)를 창출할 수 있어 기존 GIS 자료와 융합될 수 있다. 하지만 기존의 음향 측심기의 수직빔과 다르게 ADCP의 빔이 일정한 각도로 경사져 있고 선박 활용 관측 시 요동에 의해 흔들려 각각의 빔이 계측한 수심의 수평위치를 정확하게 추출하기 어려운 점이 있다. 특히 경사빔에 의한 수심관측지점에 GPS 정보를 추정하여 부여하는 작업도 까다롭다고 하겠다. 그리고 수심관측자료 자체의 오차나 특이점 제거 등의 보정작업을 거쳐야 하는 문제도 있다. 따라서 원자료를 직접 활용할 수 없고 별도의 후처리 과정을 거쳐야 한다. 따라서 본 연구는 이러한 문제를 해결하기 위해 다음의 알고리즘을 개발하였다: 1) 경사빔에 의한 관측지점의 수평위치 산정, 2) ADCP의 흔들림 (피치와 롤링) 보정, 3) 경사빔의 관측위치에 지리정보부여, 4) 수심관측치 오차와 특이점 보정, 5) 관측자료의 GIS 파일 전환. 이러한 알고리즘은 GUI와 연동되어 적용되었으며 편리하게 이용되도록 구성되었다. 그리고 본 연구는 이러한 ADCP의 수심관측 자료와 하천 및 저수지 등 경계 GIS 파일을 연동시켜 전체 혹은 국부 저수량과 하상변동량을 계상하는 알고리즘도 추가하여 관측자료의 실무에서의 활용성을 증대시키고자 하였다.

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Three-Dimensional Numerical Model Experiments of Tidal and Wind-Driven Currents in Chinhae Bay (진해만 조류 및 취송류의 3차원 수치모형실험)

  • KIM, CHA-KYUM
    • 한국해양학회지
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    • v.29 no.2
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    • pp.95-106
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    • 1994
  • Tidal and wind-driven currents in Chinhae Bay are investigated using a three-dimensional numerical model developed by Kim et al. (1993). The simulations indicate that the flow patterns in the bay are predominated by the bathymetry, wind and river inflow, and the effects of wind on the flow pattern in the inner bay are much stronger than those in the entrance channel. Computed tidal currents coincide with the field measurements. The horizontal and vertical velocities of tidal and residual currents are strong in the entrance channel of the bay, whereas the velocities are relatively weak in the western and northern parts of the bay. Computed velocity fields show the expected phase difference between the velocities in the surface and those in the bottom layer, and these characteristics are more remarkable during the spring tide than the neap tide. The surface currents in the bay depend strongly on the wind and river inflow, and such phenomena are more remarkable during the neap tide than the spring tide.

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