• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.677-686
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• 2019

This study helps out-size consumers purchase ready-made clothes and improve fitness by classifying the lower bodies of abdomen-obese adult males in their 20s and older; in addition, it creates a size system based on each size interval of obesity type. The criteria for the 559 male subjects surveyed in this study were over $25kg/m^2$ of BMI, over 90 cm of waist, and over 0.85 waist hip ratio. The results are as follows. First, the higher the age group, the higher the degree of abdominal obesity in each age group. The degree of obesity then decreases somewhat as their age increases; however, the risk of abdominal obesity also increases. Second, 3 clusters were categorized by cluster analysis, into abdominal obesity, larger oval-type, trapezoid-type and small cylinder-type. Third, the size system establishment according to lower-body types resulted in basic body sizes and reference body sizes being different according to types even in commonly-appeared size names in the sections of respective types. The above research findings show it is necessary to understand obesity types according to waist and hip sizes that represent basic sizes and to design patterns in consideration of the characteristics of obese body shapes when lower-half body clothes are designed among obesity groups.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.157-175
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• 2014

This study aimed to develop appropriate jeans patterns for men in their twenties. The study discovered designs and materials that were most commonly used by investigating preferred jeans brands for men in their twenties, and among them three brands were selected. The study carried out a fitting assessment aimed at research subjects who had the average body type of men in their twenties and who wore jeans of the selected brands. Then, the study designed research patterns by taking as a basic pattern the patterns of the company who received the highest score and modifying any part that revealed a problem. After making the research jeans in twice, a fitting adequacy assessment was undertaken in order to identify any difference between the existing jeans and the research jeans. As a result of the appearance assessment, the problems shown in appearance overall was confirmed to be improved as it received a higher assessment compared with the existing jeans overall. As a result of the fitting assessment, the study collected the assessment results of waist measurement, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and fit of back central line laid slope ease. Based on the result, the study confirmed the parts to be modified and proposed slim fit jeans patterns in consideration of the body type characteristics of men in their twenties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.13-24
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• 2019

Adolescence is a transitional stage of physical development which occurs during the period from puberty to adulthood. Going through this period, various parts of an adolescent's body grow at different rates, leading to different body shapes and proportions when compared to adults. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the body sizes and shapes of junior high school boys from ages 13-15 based on body measurement items that are used as the basis for school uniform designs including jackets, shirts, and pants. For this, the study sought the basic data needed to develop body shapes and school uniform patterns for junior high school boys using the data from the 6th Size Korea Survey (2010). Specifically, it provided basic data for the development of school uniform patterns that fit well through the classification of bodies into particular types. After extracting body shape componen a cluster analysis using ANOVA was performed. According to the factor analysis conducted to determine body shape components, 5 factors were obtained as follows: Factor 1: bulk and horizontal size, Factor 2: body height and length, Factor 3: shoulder shape and length, Factor 4: characteristics of horizontal size, Factor 5: shape of the upper body with a variance of 82.62%. To classify junior high school boys' body shape was determined using various characteristics, and a cluster analysis was performed with the variables obtained by the factor analysis. For this, body shapes were classified into 3 different types: Type 1 accounted for 33.4%, with a total of 463 subjects. This type was a tall, long body individual with the smallest bulk and size. Type 2 accounted for 22.7%, with a total of 315 subjects. This type was large in bulk and horizontal size, but the lowest in height and length. Type 3 accounted for 43.9%, with a total of 610 subjects. This type was close to average in terms of horizontal size, length, and height. To develop well-fitting school uniforms for junior high school students, there should be further studies on changes in body shape and their associated causes. The study results will be available as basic data for comparing branded school uniform patterns for junior high school boys and developing school uniform patterns based on body shape, using 3D virtual clothing simulations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.675-689
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• 2014

This study developed an ideal jeggings pattern with an improved body fit for 20-24 year old females. The results of the study are as follows. First, samples for wearing test were made using jegging patterns from three manufacturers; subsequently, one pattern with a relatively outstanding body fit was selected from the first test. The selected pattern suggested a tight knee, belly, and crotch, high front waist line, and low back waist line. The side lines were also lean to the front; consequently, the front hip width was extended for 0.5cm for more space around the belly and the extended front knee part for 0.2cm to increase moving suitability to fix the leaning side lines. A 1cm front waist line was extended for 0.5cm to fix it lower; in addition, the back waist line 3.0cm was extended for 0.5cm to heighten it. The crotch width was also extended for 0.5cm to add more space. The second wearing test for the fixed forms were evaluated for their outstanding features in appearance as well as moving functions that were proposed as final jeggings forms. The results of the study suggested a jeggings pattern with a better body fit using manufacturer patterns that can be used as basic data for pant patterns with better fitting using various stretch fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.599-614
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• 2019

The aim of this study to provide basic reference data for the development of video contents used in pattern drafting education and to explore the possibility of utilizing YouTube videos in such education. Subject videos were selected using the number of views. A total of 596 videos and 28 channels were analyzed for the period July to September 2019 and the results are as follows. With regard to content, there were 27 pattern drafting items, the majority being dress, pants, skirt, blouse and sleeve drafting, although high-level content such as cowl, bustier, corset patterns were also available. Therefore, there is a high likelihood that YouTube videos could be used as educational material, especially as supplementary references to provide specific examples and easy explanations for difficult concepts or method, for students majoring in this field. However, as most videos currently focus on a few items, expanding video content to features a wider variety of clothing items at different levels is necessary. With regard to video length, it mostly ranged from 10 to 15 minutes. It is not advisable to create lengthy lecture-style videos expounding on different principles or variations in pattern drafting when developing educational video material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

To most of the students studying fashion related major, the graduation fashion show is a big challenge. They have to put together all they learn and show what they can do to their future employers. They design, pattern work, and make up garments for the show all by themselves. Unfortunately. while they make up their garments, they usually don't Dow exactly body measurements of the models. So quite often they have to alter their art works up to the last minute of the fashion show opening. Sometimes such unadequate work process ruins their work. The purpose of this study is to suggest block patterns of Korean fashion models measurements for basic items, such as jacket and pants for male models and torso length block pattern, skirt and pants for female models. 20 male and 20 female professional models were measured. The block patterns were based on their measurements. After the first fitting test, patterns were corrected by their body characteristic. For both male and female models, it was found desirable to fix the shoulder width and make an adjustment to the patterns with a deviation of width and girth items. In case of the resultant patterns the satisfaction was made better. Model sizes proposed in this study are considered closer to the size of average models, since they were based on A-grade models who are currently working in Korea. The resultant patterns can be produced by simply making a slight adjustment to the width of the proposed pattern in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.61-75
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• 2015

This research aims to analyze the prep-hop fashion, which is an original look created through the convergence of the hip-hop and preppy look, and identify the design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion. The style mixes the fashion of what was traditionally a lower-class look with the upper class. The design characteristics are as follows: First, the prep-hop fashion expresses slim, casual and sophisticated look with items and silhouettes. The items are categorized into jackets, shirts and pants. The prep-hop jackets provides a casual look to its wearer unlike the jackets of preppy or conservative looks. Slim suits show different meanings and features depending on the changes in the time and culture despite the continued use of the items. Second, the colors of the prep-hop fashion include overall basic colors used in the preppy look and hip-hop fashion. The aesthetic values of the colors express pleasant color images different from the conservative and resistant images expressed in the preppy and hip-hop style before the convergence, respectively. Third, the materials and patterns are expressed in a unique way to fulfill the emotional needs that are considered vital to contemporary fashion. The materials in the prep-hop fashion extend the ranges of usage by using the materials with unexpectedness broken out of general range of usage. While the use of the patterns is one of the methods to demonstrate that the prep-hop fashion is created by the convergence between hip-hop fashion and preppy look, the meaning concludes pleasantness and casualness different from the past. Fourth, the prep-hop fashion is mainly composed of hip-hop fashion accessories, which express the authenticity of the hip-hop fashion to protect the non-mainstream characteristics. The design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion pursue the individuality of the contemporary fashion, which lacks originality due to commercialization. The development of the prep-hop fashion, as a new form that combined contrasting genres and trends, is expected to develop more publicly.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.27-39
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• 2018

This study analyzed the body shape of women over 70 years and classified their body shapes in order to provide basic data for the development of pants patterns that can complement the weakness of the body shape of elderly women. It were analyzed using SPSS Ver. 20.0. Five factors were extracted from the lower body: obesity and thigh thickness, lower body length, under knee thickness, ankle height, and hip sag. In type 1, the lower body was obese and the legs were thick, but the hips were not sagging. It was named 'high-hip obesity figure'. Type 2's abdomen, hip, and waist were obese, but the legs were thin and the hip were not sagging. Thus, 'bird-leg middle obesity figure' was the name. Type 3 had a long and slender lower body, but legs were thick and the hips were saggy, it was named 'strong-leg low-hip slender figure'. The elderly women showed less difference in waist, abdomen, and hip circumference. The abdominal circumference was 2-3cm more than the waist and hip circumference; hence there is a need to differentiate the shape and number of darts in the production of bottom-wear patterns for older women. In addition, the leg circumference is gradually reduced by aging compared to the size of the lower body. Therefore, it would be necessary to search for a method that can effectively design the difference between the hip circumference and the leg circumference in relation to the body shape and the aesthetics of older women.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.681-695
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• 2014

This study has the purpose to find basic materials for development of kindergarten's uniform and suggest the improvement of its design based on the survey results from Suncheon area in Jeollanam-do of Korea. Such study methods were conducted as literature review, survey with direct visit, interview, and photographing of dresses regarding the kindergarten uniform. The following are research results. First, kindergarten teachers presented a positive opinion about the necessity for children to wear the uniform. In selection of design, they regarded the activity as most important factor. Kindergartens applying active wear compatible as townwear also accounted for 57.1%, which is more than half. Second, the formal wear, in the winter season was found to consist with jacket or knit cardigan, knit vest, shirts, skirts or pants, and necktie. For color, most of them are in dark tone, which need to be brighter. For pattern, they are in plain color, which needs to have various patterns. As to the cloth material, such problems should be improved as warmth retentivity in consideration of seasonal nature, moisture retentivity, breathability, color retentivity when washing, and harmless to human body. Third, active wear is mostly the casual sportswear type. But it has no characteristic unique to kindergarten in design and needs to be altered for differentiated design. Especially, it is simply divided into winter wear and summer wear in kind. Therefore, it is required to have differentiation for seasonal characteristic and diversity in number of item and improvement in terms of cloth material.