• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.88-98
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• 2005

This study focuses on the needs at both consumers and manufacturers. It aims to find ways for consumers to purchase outfits that would fit their particular body type and preferences at reasonable prices, choose raw materials and style at garments, and virtually try them on. In addition, the study is designed to help apparel manufacturers identity customers' changing needs, reduce inventories, manage information on customers' body type in a digitalized form, and eventually contribute to promoting electronic commerce. Based on nine basic patterns that tit each subject, 108 virtual garments are created by adjusting the size of the patterns (9 subjects $\times$ 4 body parts $\times$ 3 patterns = 108 outfits). In order to determine fitting preferences for each body part and find optimized conditions, cross-tabulation analysis including $X^2$ and frequency analysis were performed to measure the appearance rate. A style of virtual garment, which is minus 2cm from chest size was chosen as the most appropriate pattern to the baseline location of front the chest. For the waist parts, the C style as an appropriate virtual garment to front and back view. In the front, lateral and back view, a style was chosen in the response to the sleeve-bodice combinations, the ease amount of armhole area, the armhole depth and the loosening of tightening or armhole line.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.963-970
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.599-611
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop the most appropriate garment patterns for dog. This study is analyzed the body structures and bodily movements of different types of dogs and constructed garment patterns that are appropriate for each category: the basic pattern for dogs with oval-shaped chests; and the modified pattern for the ones with barrel-shaped chests. Analyzing some of the existing patterns in the market as well as studying the size chart of one of the dog apparel manufacturers, who participated in the Fashion Week for the very first time, were undertaken in order to understand the bodily figures and movements of dogs. Furthermore, based the previous studies and relevant information available regarding some of the most popular dogs in four selected countries: (names of the selected countries), dogs were broadly categorized into three groups according to the shape of their chests: Oval, Barrel, and Flat-sided. Later, two types of pattern were created and then constructed for fitting: the basic pattern for oval-shaped chest; and the modified pattern for barrel-shaped chest. As a result, the two patterns turned out to be most suitable for pet dogs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.59-66
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern of elderly women aged over 60s by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, By using 3D Virtual Garment Simulation, new slacks pattern considered elderly women was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows, front waist girth W/4+2+1.5, back waist girth W/4+1.5+0.5, front hip girth H/4+0.75, back hip girth H/4+1.5, front crotch extension H/16-0.5, back crotch extension H/8-1.3, front dart amount 2 and back dart amount 1.5. Second, according to the results of the new slacks pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new slacks pattern is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, new slacks pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.799-809
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• 2000

This study was designed for automated pattern drawing and grading a man's Durumagi, Korean traditional coat in order to reestablished and grade the pattern by Apparel CAD SYSTEM. For the study, AM-250 systems of Gerber as the computer and Macro program as the automated drawing were used. Also, PDS(Pattern Design System) was used for the grading of the original Durumagi pattern. Results were followings; First, the size data that could be standardized by reestablishing the pattern of a man's Durumagi by each size was presented. Second, The pattern was developed by each size. Third, new design was propose for mass production with the traditional design of the DURUMAGI Fourth, The time for making DURUMAGI pattern and the cost through the automated drawings by using the Macro program were reduced. Moreover, was presented the basic data for a ready to made garment like the Western garment. Five, A man's DURUMAGI by CAD System was graded that could be applied to ready to made Hanbok

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권9호
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• pp.1049-1059
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• 2011

This study investigates the current state of companies that manufacture and sell outdoor wear. A survey was conducted to identify what problems they had and what aspects they needed to supplement through a comparison and analysis of their block patterns. Companies that manufactured outdoor wear and those that sold them were separately surveyed to understand their current state. The manufactures included 4 companies and 14 sellers. The survey used interviews to cover the areas of target consumers, development patterns, production lines, body size, nominal size, production size, and functional materials for each item, and aspects that need improvement. The survey period was from September $3^{rd}$ to $10^{th}$ 2008. There were three block patterns for jackets, T-shirts, and pants. The investigator collected the patterns used by three outdoor clothing manu-facturers for comparison and assessment. As a result, the mean age of the target consumers set by the outdoor clothing manufacturers and sellers was 25.3-50.7 and 29.2-42.5, respectively, which shows that the outdoor clothing had a wider distribution of target consumers than the sellers. It is imperative for them to segment and differentiate the target consumers and concepts. The basic body measurements the companies used to draw the upper and lower garment patterns were the bust circumference for the upper garment patterns and the waist circumference for the lower garment patterns. The basic nominal size was 95 for the upper garment and 70 for the lower garment. Also analyzed were the block patterns according to the items to understand the pattern characteristics of each of the companies. There were a total of 35, 36, and 30 items for the jackets, T-shirts, and pants, respectively, to measure size. The items were then compared with one another in mean and standard deviation. The analysis indicate that the block patterns were not fit for women in their twenties or thirties to wear and required revisions in the length of the upper garment, the height of sleeve cap, bust circumference, hip length, and pant length.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.267-276
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• 2019

This study develops 3D-printed-garment collections for a fashion show presentation. A design concept using traditional patterns that consisted of garments regarding the limitation of the printing technology was investigated in order to develop the collection. The structures of the connecting joints of the textile parts which could be easily and sturdily interconnected were invented. Wearability as garments that could be naturally worn on the human body were sought. As a result, four 3D-printed-garments were developed. The 1st garment composed of objects based on a 'Yeon-Dang-Cho'-pattern was constructed as a geometric robe style using a FDM 3D printer and transparent TPU filaments. The 2nd and 3rd 3D-printed-garments composed of an object based on a 'Boe-Sang-Hwa'-pattern was constructed as a distorted one-piece exaggerating the silhouettes of shoulders and waist parts as well as a straight asymmetric tunic style that used the same printer and material as the 1st garment. The last garment composed of an object based on a 'Boe-Sang-Hwa'-pattern printed using a SLA 3D printer and flexible-liquid-resin was constructed attaching the objects on the fabric material by the hot-press machine. The four developed garments were presented in the opening fashion show of 'the 6th International 3D-printing Korea Expo'. This study provides a basic case for related studies to adapt 3D-printing technology in textile pattern development of garment construction.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.279-292
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• 2016

This research predicted the fit of the basic bodice patterns worn on adolescent girls' 3-dimensional scanned bodies. Six 3-dimensional scanned bodies were selected from the sixth Size Korea data. Each of them had good body posture and represented one of the three garment sizes: 79-160, 82-160, and 85-160. Experimental basic bodice patterns were drafted by three basic bodice pattern making methods. The fit of the basic bodice pattern was analyzed by the CLO 3D virtual clothing system. The results showed that the experimental basic bodice patterns did not fit well at the neck, shoulder, and back for adolescent girls. The fit of the basic bodice patterns varied by pattern making method or size. The basic bodice pattern A with the waist darts ending above the breast line showed the best fit among the three different types of experimental pattern. Among the three sizes 79-160, 82-160, and 85-120, size 79-160 basic bodice pattern showed the worst fit for adolescent girls. The results show that the placement and size of the bodice darts affect the basic bodice pattern fit. The basic bodice pattern making method of size 79-160 for adolescent girls should be studied in a future study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1524-1535
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to establish a sizing system according to size and dimension whereby manufactured pants can be classified and develop men’s formal pants pattern based on the analysis of ready-made and educational pants pattern. The first, we surveyed the sizing and the basic pants patterns of the men’s ready-made wear companies, Secondly, through the survey data of the domestic men’ready-mad clothing industry, we proposed a new sizing system. Lastly, after compared three different types of ready-mad pants manufactured according to their patterns and an additional type of pants made after the educational pattern, the new men’s basic pants pattern were developed. The findings were as follows: 1. Survey of the domestic ready-mad garment industry showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own sizing system: moreover, they each used its own unique patterns which appeared to be resulted from a combination of two factors : the experience of a patterner and foreign know-how technology. 2. New sizing system was developed with 12 steps from size 74-88 to size 96-106 based on the high frequencies of the companies’3. New basic patterns for men’s formal pants were developed: Inseam length = 80cm, crotch line = H/4+4.6cm, pants ham = 23.5cm as basic lines and front waist girth =W/4+9.1cm as drafting line. 4. the superiority of the new basic patterns were been demonstrated by a high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.