• 건축역사연구
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.116-136
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• 1992

Architectural essence of John Ruskin's discourse can resolve itself into natural beauty, craftmanship, and truth in structure, surface, and process. His theories became disciplines of modern English school, Art and Craft and Free architecture, in aspects of organic architecture, morality, and rationality. These concepts disseminated continental Art Nouveau and also became it's basic principles. But his empirical theories hated use of machine, and should find a ideal model in medieval romanticism of Gothic. Anti-machine, as a instictive guideline of English modern architecture, couldn't cope with the industrialization of 20th century, and Gothic revival interfered with creating a new style. Muthesius' discourses were taught by the power of group movements and modern concept of form in English school, originally by Ruskin. But he accepted the potentiality of machine and mass production, and stressed creating the new German style suitable with machine. With the progress of Deutscher Werkbund, his theories were advanced to 'quality' connected with craftmanship, to discourse on mechanical 'form', and lastly to 'standardization and type' for mass production. Mechanical functionalism of Muthesius and DWB were sophiscated and handed down to Bauhaus, and then finally helped establishment of the Modern Architecture and Internationalism. Both English and German modern architecture owed their contribution as well as limitation to Ruskin and Muthesius as theorists. Through this comparative study, we can see the priority of theory to practice, the theoretical justification based on insight for its society and future, and the practical character of theory itself.

• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.49-66
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• 1999

The bisexuality deconstructivity and diversity that are great characteristics on the comtemporary fashion are showed in the fashion collections. The purpose of this paper is to investigate and analyze the influence of these characteristics made by the post modern-feminism fashion through the cultural pattern analysis. The post modern-feminism was analyzed by dividing the cultural pattern into 1) the deconstructivity of androcentrism -This characteristic was presented in the costume design that breaks the basic from of the line color and quality of the material showing in men's clothes. 2) By rejecting main current fashion -Subculture style appeared in main current fashion the boundary of main and anti-main current fashion was vagued and the phenomena that the identity of subgroup was weakened were showed. 3) In the coexistence of double-sided value -This characteristic was presented in the cross-dressing fashion that cut away women's slender part and men's rough part. 4) In the open-minded thought of gender -This tendency was reached an extreme from excessive exposure to design which gives the sexual stimulus. This paper is expected to be helpful to understand the contemporary fashion by treating the cultural category associated with post-modern feminism in relation to contemporary fashion and to establish the direction of 21 century fashion.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.142-152
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• 2017

This study investigated Renaissance and Baroque architectural characteristics found in contemporary public buildings in Seoul, which are National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Seoul Branch(MMCA) and Dongdaemun Design Plaza(DDP). Among H. $W{\ddot{o}}lfflin^{\prime}s$ five categories for Renaissance-Baroque art study, four categories (Clearness/Unclearness, Plane/Recession, Closed form/Open form, Multiplicity/Unity) are applied for the analysis as the architectural issues of Transparency/Concealment, Exhibited/Experienced Depth, Formal/Figural, and Composed harmony/Generated Unity. As a result, MMCA showed the characteristics of the extreme of Modern classic such as transparency, homogenization of space, formalism, and composition of multiple elements. Meanwhile, the study could find various Baroque characteristics from DDP such as separation of indoor and outdoor, phenomenological depth, rule breaking, and generation of figure. The study finally argued that DDP would not be an anti-modern, but try to inherit and overcome the modern architecture to explore different possibilities, and that the similar relationship between Renaissance and Baroque art could be found in these two cases.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.190-201
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• 2007

The purpose of this study Is to reinterpret sexuality represented in modern fashion with the conception of plural sexuality from post-structuralism in socio-semiotic approach. It consists of two parts.: The first part provides the theoretical background and the methodological framework of this study. The second part ultimately accomplishes this study by empirical research, which is to infer plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and sexual ideology signified in modern fashion. In this part the theoretical background was focused on the conception of sexuality on the basis of Foucault's idea, and then the framework for this study was made up from socio-semiotic perspective. The conception of sexuality in Foucauldian post-structural idea maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. Socio-semiotics suggests a contextual methodology to analyze the phenomena of material culture by articulating the range of material objects with that of ideology. The socio-semiotic model applied to sexuality represented in fashion is the framework of classifying into the several versions of fashion images from fashion as a material object and then inferring sexual ideology codified in them. In addition, three stages of producer/object/user in socio-semiotics were revised into 'dominant sexuality' with mainstream fashion out of dominant discourses,'oppositional sexuality' to create anti-fashion from oppositional discourses of subculture, and 'alternative sexuality' to be appropriated to dominant discourses by the mix of mainstream fashion and anti-fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.154-168
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• 2001

This study is intended to understand an implication and significant of anti-design and Italian radical fashion. Anti-design and radicalism is the main stream or origin and essence of post-modernism which hs been swaying our society at large through modern culture, economy, art, fashion etc, from the latter part of 1960s. In this paper, the author classified the italian radical fashion with the Archizoom, the Alchymia, the memphis fashion. In post-modernism fashion, radical fashion design of the Archizoom, Alchymia and Memphis group is in part a menifesto and in part a noncanonical history of the most progressive and heretical experiments of the world of fashion. Anti-designers of Italy call for a theory an practive in which the old methods and instruments and the old commendments of modernism are banished. They looked on fashion as material culture, a creative field with its own independent foundation and endowed with its own strong artistic intuition. IF radical design is dead, the energy it has stirred up is still alive nd kicking. One of the most progressive and well-informed culture milieus in Milian, seved as a point of reference for the vanguard of fashion.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제51권
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• pp.133-160
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• 2018

아피찻퐁 위라세타쿤과 차이밍량의 영화는 현대 아시아 영화의 주요 특징 중 하나인 육체성을 잘 보여준다. 이들의 영화에서는 인물들의 다양한 감정이 언어가 아닌 몸을 통해 표현되고 교환되며, 이들의 영화 세계는 언어가 그 기능을 상실한 세계이자 상징적 질서가 무너진 세계라 할 수 있다. 아피찻퐁과 차이밍량의 영화에서 신체 언어는 일반 언어보다 더 중요한 기능을 담당하고, 몸은 야생, 반-문명, 제의, 소외, 환영 등을 지시하면서 다양한 기호작용을 수행한다. 이처럼 다양한 몸의 기호작용의 근저에는 현대 아시아 국가들에 급속하게 이식된 서구 물질문명에 대한 거부감이 공통적으로 자리하고 있으며, 문명 이전 혹은 문명 너머에 대한 동경도 그 공통적인 특징으로 드러난다. 아울러, 두 감독의 영화에서 야생 혹은 반-문명의 기호로서의 몸이 억압적이고 비인간적인 현대 문명으로부터의 도피나 은신의 의도를 내포하고 있는 것에 반해, 환영의 기호로서의 몸은 문명에 대한 저항 혹은 버티기의 의지를 나타낸다. 이들의 영화에 나타나는 환영의 경험은 궁극적으로 현실의 물리적, 정서적 압력에 저항하며 비이성적인 버티기를 계속하려는 의지의 발현이라 볼 수 있다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.63-79
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• 2012

Modern art is getting more comprehensive and diversified regardless of genre in many forms due to the pluralism and anti-aesthetic trend of the time which is impacted by post modernism. This atmosphere is also applied to fashion illustration which creates synergy effect in cooperation with many different genres. This study selected Matisse' paper cut-out as the subject which would reflect the minimalism and ionism of modern plasticity. By taking this as the motive for fashion illustration, I made seven illustration works with the subject of minimalism of form and color. The conclusion of this study is as following. First, Matisse's paper cut out has controlled plasticity related to the modern ionism and it well fits the modern trend and sensibility which is appropriate for motive of fashion illustration. Second, by upgrading the technique of Matisse' paper cut-out in a modern way such as combination of hand drawing and computer graphic using Photoshop, I was able to make originative and creative illustration works with background and patterns that were closely connected with each other. Third, applying the fashion illustration to other various products is being well received now and I made my illustrations that could lead to follow up studies to apply the fashion illustration to other different products. Matisse' paper cut-our has forms, colors and patterns that can contain both commercial and artistic value. Therefore it is quite feasible for follow up research to apply into many different areas.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.82-92
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• 2020

현대 미술작품은 재료와 제작기법, 종류가 매우 다양하게 사용되고 있으며 특히 조각작품 중 많은 비율을 차지하는 금속의 경우 형태가 다양하고 여러 재질과 혼합된 작품이 다수 존재한다. 이러한 구조적, 재료적 특성은 보존처리 시 기존의 처리 방법을 적용하기 어려운 경우가 많아 보다 다양한 처리 재료 및 방법이 요구된다. 본 연구에서는 금속 작품의 효과적인 보존처리를 위해 방청제(Rust inhibitor, 防錆劑)를 작품에 직접적으로 도포하는 방법이 아닌 기화성 방청제를 적용하였으며, 기화성 방청제 및 이를 함유한 방청필름의 방청효과를 평가하였다. 금속 시편을 대상으로 기화성 방청제를 적용한 방청처리 결과, 시편의 색도 변화는 미미하였으며, 부식 속도는 방청 미처리 시편과 비교하였을 때 절반 정도 감소하는 것을 확인하였다. 방청필름 적용 실험 결과, 방청필름 사용 시 미처리 및 폴리에틸렌 필름을 사용한 시편보다 부식화합물의 발생이 감소하였다. 접촉각 및 표면에너지, 표면전기저항 측정을 통해 표면의 물성을 측정하였으며 방청피막이 형성됨을 확인하였다. 또한 기화성 방청제 및 방청필름을 실제 조각작품에 적용하여 방청효과를 확인하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.673-684
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to find out the correlation between the \"spirit of the times\" and the characteristics of each eras clothing in Renaissance and Post-modern Period. Theoretical studies about the \"spirit of times\" and the characteristics of clothing about each time were preceded. The results were as follows: Similarities of \"Spirit of times\" were 1) emphasis on humanity 2) anti-centralization 3) destruction of social status 4) deconstruction of christianity in Renaissance and modernism in Post-modern Period. Similarities of \"characteristics of clothing\" were 1) emphasis on erotic aspects of female body 2) emphasis of erotic aspects on clothing 3) tendency to revert to the old fashion 4) popularization of certain social groups fashion 5) tendency of deconstructionism in fashion 6) tendency of \"No match mix\" 7) androgynous style.f \"No match mix\" 7) androgynous style.ous style.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제25호
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• pp.198-204
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• 2000

Art Nouveau was a short-lived European phenomenon in art and architecture. Despite the fact that Art Nouveau architecture never fully succeeded as an anti-historical movement, it is important to identify its place in modern architectural historiography. The significance of Art Nouveau-that it incorporated decorative elements into the centre of architectural practice-certainly serves to acknowledge its place within the Modern Movement. Architectural works of Victor Horta, Hector Guimard and Charles Rennie Mackintosh are carefully examined in this paper to find out (1) how they individually emerged and manifested distinctive characteristics and creativity within their own local contexts, and (2) how they can collectively fit into historical discourse of Art Nouveau. Art Nouveau was not a mere fin-de-ci cle phenomenon, but a complicated transient phase at the dawn of European Modernism.