• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.167-172
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• 2004

In the human skin, vitamin C (L -ascorbic acid) that is well known as the activated materials has effects that is skin anti-aging and wrinkle repair by giving impetus to collagen biosynthesis and anti-oxidation, and that is the sun screen, a wound recovering, inhibition melanogenesis and so on. In spite of its effects, vitamin C has the defects of the skin stimulation and easily oxidized instability by water, air, heat and light. For solving their matters, many investigation is advanced and its results are synthesized the various vitamin C derivatives. And yet they have not solved the unstable property of vitamin C and were still insufficient for the comparing with the effect of the pure vitamin C itself. In this study, in order to prepare vitamin C derivative of being improved the stability and to apply vitamin C effect in the skin, we prepared new vitamin C derivative, phytosphingosine ascorbate, by using phytosphingosine, one of sphingolipids, which have a distinguished skin affinity. Phytosphingosine ascorbate can be prepared as the ionic bond between amine group (-NH$_2$) of phytosphingosine and hydroxy group (-OH) of vitamin C by way of the relatively simple reaction. So the structure and properties of the synthesized phytosphingosine ascorbate was confirmed the use of elemental analysis (C 58.3 : H 9.3 : N 2.8 : O 29.5), MALDI TOF-MS (Mw=492.58), Ultraviolet spectra (268.5nm), lH NMR, FT-IR spectra, thermal analysis (m.p=l54$^{\circ}C$), HPLC and so on. And we could confirm the anti-bacterial and anti-oxidation effects. Based on these results, we could confirm to prepare a new material that was expected of both effects of vitamin C and phytosphingosine and that is improved properties of vitamin C.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.38-46
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• 2016

Background : The white jelly mushroom (Tremella fuciformis), one of the most popular edible fungi, has medicinal properties. However, the effects of T. fuciformis in skin whitening or anti-wrinkle efficacy has not been defined to date. The aim of the present study was to investigate the effects of T. fuciformis extracts on whitening and anti-wrinkle efficacy in skin cells. Methods and Results :We prepared T. fuciformis extracts with water. The extracts ($80^{\circ}C$) contained 12.11 mg/g polyphenol and 8.54 mg/g flavonoid concentration. T. fuciformis extracts markedly decreased melanin contents and tyrosinase activity in ${\alpha}$-MSH-stimulated melanocytes (B16F10 cells). In addition, the mRNA expression of melanin formation factors, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1) and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) were significantly down-regulated in ${\alpha}$-MSH-stimulated melanocyte. Furthermore, T. fuciformis extracts increased the synthesis of type I procollagen and reduced mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) in the human dermal fibroblast (HDFn cells). These data indicated that T. fuciformis extracts induce repression of cellular melanogenesis and protect against wrinkles caused by UVB-stimulated damage. Conclusions : Thus T. fuciformis extracts could be a cosmetic candidate for skin whitening and anti-wrinkle effects.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.506-511
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• 2014

Commelina communis Ledeb is a widely used medication for the treatment of antidiabetic, antioxidant and hypoglycemic agent in Korea. Alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH) is a major factor to stimulate melanin synthesis in the skin. The purposes of this study was to investigate the inhibitory effects of extract from Commelina communis Ledeb (ECC) on ${\alpha}$-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. ECC suppressed melanin synthesis and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 cells or ${\alpha}$-MSH-induced B16F10 cells in a dose dependent manner. In study on the melanogenic protein expressions, it had especially influence on expressions of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein (TRP-1). Tyrosinase and TRP-1 expressions were gradually decreased in a dose-dependent. Additionally, the extract also decreased the ${\alpha}$-MSH-induced over-expression of tyrosinase and TRP-1. This results show that the anti-melanogenic activity of ECC is correlated with the suppression of tyrosinase and TRP-1 protein expressions in B16F10 cells.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.623-630
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to investigate the possibility of applying cosmetic material about extracted from Lycii Fructus seed supercritical fluid. This study was conducted to evaluate the anti-melanogenesis effect and antimicrobial activity about the extracts from Lycii Fructus seed. These researches studied for emulsion physical stability of pH, viscosity, particle size from emulsion containing Lycii Fructus seed extract. As a result, the supercritical fluid extract from Lycii Fructus seed significantly inhibited melanin synthesis by 81.86 % at the concentration $750{\mu}g/mL$. Antimicrobial effects of extract was determined against Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans, Escherichia coli. except by Staphylococcus epidermidis. The physical stability of viscosity and pH on the emulsion containing Lycii Fructus seed extract were stable for 28 days. Emulsion containing Lycii Fructus seed extract did not change particles at observation into optical microscope. These results suggest that extracts from Lycii Fructus seed may have value as the potential cosmetic formulation.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.264-270
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• 2011

In this study, we investigated the cosmetic application of Acer mono sap through an ultra-high pressure process. Exposing Acer mono sap to a ultra-high pressure process resulted in 90.1% cell viability of human normal fibroblast cells (CCD-986sk) when added at the highest concentration. Acer mono sap also showed the hightest free radical scavenging activity after the ultra high pressure process. The melanogenesis inhibition rate in cloned M-3 cells was 59.0%. Tyrosinase was inhibited at a rate of 87.2% by adding 100% HPAMS. Anti-wrinkle activity was 78.1%. Acer mono sap showed enhanced storage following the ultra high pressure process. These results indicate that Acer mono sap may be a source for functional cosmetic agents capable of improving antioxidant, whitening, and antiwrinkling effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.275-286
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• 2008

In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of Platycarya strobilacea bark extracts. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($6.75{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($6.62{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($4.15{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was ethyl acetate fraction (OSC50, $0.56{\mu}g/mL$) < 50% ethanol extract ($0.02{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($0.01{\mu}g/mL$). The deglycosylated aglycone fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethanol extract (50%) suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 717.27 min at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Platycarya strobilacea extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($243.98{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($153.87{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($137.53{\mu}g/mL$). Also, The inhibitory effect of elastase ($IC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($31.01{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($14.42{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($1.48{\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Platycarya strobilacea extracts was formulated. The skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, and the whitening effects were investigated after topical application of the cream. The skin hydration of cream containing extract was increased by $2{\sim}8%$ than the placebo cream, transepidermal water loss was decreased. The cream containing extract suppressed the melanogenesis of skin by 9.55% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by anti-oxidative activity and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The inhibitory effect on elastase and tyrosinase, and the increase of skin hydration and the whitening effect of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.423-429
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• 2017

Hair color is determined by kind and amount of melanin. Melanocyte mainly synthesizes melanin from L-tyrosine by stimulation of ultra violet. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) play an important role in greying hair. Polygonum multiflorum radix has been reported to inhibit the aging process that black color of hair is turned into grey color. The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of Polygoni multiflorium radix ethanol extract (PMEE) on melanin synthesis related to black hair growth. In anti-oxidant experiment, PMEE decreased DPPH radical and increased reducing power, indicating that PMEE could eliminate ROS involved in greying hair. PMEE decreased cell viability in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, the effect of PMEE on the production of melanin was determined by DOPA assay and tyrosinase activity. PMEE increased tyrosinase activity and promoted melanin synthesis. In addition, the expression levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2) and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), as well as anti-oxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD-3) and catalase were examined using western blot analysis. The expression levels of SOD-3 and catalase were decreased due to the enhanced antioxidant activity of PMEE. In particular, PMEE increased the expression levels of tyrosinase and TRP-2. These results suggest that PMEE could promote melanin synthesis that involved in tuning gray hair into black hair.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.39 no.10
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• pp.1418-1424
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• 2010

This study was performed to assess the antioxidant activities and whitening effects of Sorbus commixta HEDL cortex on melanin synthesis. The whitening effects of Sorbus commixta HEDL cortex water extracts were examined by in vitro mushroom tyrosinase assay and B16BL6 melanoma cells. We assessed inhibitory effects of Sorbus commixta HEDL cortex water extracts on expression of melanogenic enzyme proteins including tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1) and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2) in B16BL6 cells. Inhibitory effects of Sorbus commixta HEDL cortex onto free radical generation were determined by measuring DPPH and hydroxyl radical scavenging activities. Our results indicated that Sorbus commixta HEDL cortex water extracts effectively inhibited free radical generation. In DPPH radical scavenging activity, Sorbus commixta HEDL cortex water extracts had a potent anti-oxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner. They significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity in vitro and in B16BL6 melanoma cells. Also, Sorbus commixta HEDL cortex suppressed the expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 in B16BL6 melanoma cells. These results show that Sorbus commixta HEDL cortex inhibited melanin production on the melanogenesis. The underlying mechanism of Sorbus commixta HEDL cortex on whitening activity may be due to the inhibition of tyrosinase activity and tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2 expression. We suggest that Sorbus commixta HEDL cortex may be contain new natural active ingredients for antioxidant and whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of Nutrition and Health
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.121-128
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• 2020

Purpose: The Rubus coreanus fruit (RF) is an important traditional medicinal herb having antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunoregulatory properties. These activities are known to change dramatically, depending on maturity of the RF. It is presumed that change of functional components, such as flavonoids, tannins, phenolic acids, triterpenoids and organic acids in RF, affect the various bioactivities. This study aimed to confirm changes in the anti-melanogenic effects of RF based on maturity, and to identify the bioactive compounds responsible. Methods: The cell viability of mature RF (MRF) and immature RF (IRF) extracts was investigated using B16F10 cells. To compare the anti-melanogenic effect of MRF and IRF extracts, we first assessed the melanin content. High-performance liquid chromatography analysis was performed to evaluate changes in the level of ellagic acid according to maturity of the RF. In addition, tyrosinase inhibitory activity of both extracts was examined. Results: MRF and IRF extracts (50-200 ㎍/mL) do not affect the cell viability of B16F10 melanoma cells. IRF extract more effectively inhibited melanin synthesis than MRF extract. The content of ellagic acid in IRF extract was higher than that obtained in MRF extract. Furthermore, greater inhibition of tyrosinase activity was observed after exposure to IRF extract than MRF extract. A positive correlation was determined between ellagic acid content and tyrosinase inhibitory activity, and a negative correlation was obtained between ellagic acid content and melanin content. Taken together, our results indicate that ellagic acid is one of the major bioactive compounds of RF that imparts a whitening effect. Conclusion: Our results indicate that ellagic acid in MRF and IRF extracts affect the anti-melanogenesis effect through inhibition of tyrosinase activity. Therefore, the ellagic acid rich IRF has greater potential for application as a natural and functional cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.355-362
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• 2013

This study was performed to assess the antioxidant activities and whitening effects of protopectinase enzymes and mechanical maceration from soybeans on melanin synthesis. The whitening effects of enzyme treatment and mechanical maceration were examined by an in vitro mushroom tyrosinase assay and by assessing markers in B16BL6 melanoma cells. We assessed inhibitory effects on the expression of melanogenic enzymes, including tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2) in B16BL6 cells. Inhibitory effects on free radical generation were determined by measuring DPPH and hydroxyl radical scavenging activities. In DPPH radical scavenging activity, enzyme treatment and mechanical maceration had a potent anti-oxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner and significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity in vitro and in B16BL6 melanoma cells. There was also an inhibition in the expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 in B16BL6 melanoma cells. Our results show that soybean protopectinase treatment inhibits melanogenesis, with the underlying mechanism possibly due to the inhibition of tyrosinase activity and tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 expression. We suggest that soybean protopectinase should be contained as natural active ingredients for antioxidant and whitening cosmetics.