• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.34-49
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• 2016

The ancient 'sacred cloths' of Indonesia have diverse characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles, focusing on 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts. The first part analyzes the creation period, religious importance, region where the cloths are found, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The second part focuses on the textile-making techniques and the ritual patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' This research is the second paper. This research analyzes 225 Indonesian sacred cloth examples chosen for their religious function in ceremony, and reviews 10 books and 8 research papers. Field research was done in the Museum of Bali, the Indonesian Museum of Textiles, and nine weaving production houses in eastern Bali. Indonesian sacred cloths express their cultural philosophy and function through production techniques, colors, techniques, and visual patterns. The 'sacred cloth'-making techniques are classified as Batik, Prada, and Ikat. The regions that contribute to the textile production determine what patterns show up on the cloths. Sumatran patterns are philosophical, lavish, and prestigious. Bornean patterns are barbaric and prestigious. Balinese patterns are complex, decorative, warm, festive, calm, and aristocratic. Javanese patterns are symbolic and repetitive. Celebes patterns are artistic and simple. Nusa Tenggara patterns are symbolic and narrative. The forms shown on the textiles, whether geometric, human and animal, natural objects, or abstract patterns, determine how to classify the varied patterns. As a result, ancient Indonesian sacred cloths characteristics portray Indonesian identity as Bhinneka Tunggal Ika(Unity in Diversity).

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2000

The court dancing suit, so-called "JeongJae(呈才) suit," has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court′s feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national quests from foreign countries. There are 53 kinds of court dancing suits, ranging from the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms to the period of Chosun Dynasty. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles : DangAk-JeongJae(唐樂呈才) style and HyangAk-feongjae(鄕樂呈才) style, depending on dancing styles. Since the court dancing suits in the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms and Koryo Dynasty have already been studied previously, this study discussed the change of dancing suit styles created in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, such as YukHwaDae(六花隊), MuSanHyang(舞山香) and ChoonAengJeon(春鶯), and the thought of Yin-Yang and five elements(陰陽五行思想) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. The purpose of this study is to understand the thoughts contained in the ancient suits as well as their styles in order to inherit and uphold our traditional culture properly.

• 복식
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• 제66권1호
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• pp.122-134
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• 2016

The Mural Tomb of Xu Xianxiu(AD 571), a high ranking official in Northern Qi period, is located in Taiyuan, Shanxi province, China. Despite having been raided, it was still discovered to contain over 530 pieces, such as artifacts and murals, in excellent state of preservation. These murals are noteworthy for their high level of detail compared to other murals from the same era, and are important for understanding the historical context of active East-West and Han-Hu cultural exchange in the $6^{th}$ to $7^{th}$ century. The murals of Xu Xianxiu's tomb depict round-collared and narrow-sleeved garments as well as straight collared robes typical of the Xianbei tribe's attire. Notable are the ermine fur overcoat and a headwear with flares on the left and right thought to be unique to the Xianbei. The wife and female servants show female attire of the Xianbei at the time; this attire can be characterized by narrow-sleeved long gowns and asymmetrical flying-bird buns. Despite the anti-Han policy of Northern Qi, influences such as the right sided gathering of the robes and embellished hair styles remain. The procession also depicts the three-cornered headdress and long-tailed hood of the Xianbei men, which have been recorded in documents. The large rounded pearl pattern containing the palmette, the divine animal, and bodhisattva's head motifs show the influence of the Western China [Xi'yu]. Considering that Northern Qi had more active interactions with the three ancient kingdoms of Korea than with the Southern Kingdoms[Nanchao], the findings of this study call for further research on the correlation between the attire of ancient Korea and Northern Qi.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.89-96
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• 2003

The court dancing suit, so-called "JeongJae(呈才) suit," has been worn by court dancers. Since the court dancing suits in the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms and Koryo Dynasty have already been studied previously, this study discussed the change of dancing suit styles created in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, such as GaInJeonMok-Dan(佳人剪牧丹)ㆍGoGuRyeo-Mu(高句麗舞)ㆍGongMak-Mu(公莫舞)ㆍManSuMu(萬壽舞), and the thought of Yin-Yang and five elements(陰陽五行思想) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. The purpose of this study is to understand the thoughts contained in the ancient suits as well as their styles in order to inherit and uphold our traditional culture properly. properly.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.29-40
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Heart shaped Earring in old tombs of Three Kingdom States. First Heart shaped Earring is 7 part in according to heart styles. I-A type was original style and that was influenced by scythe style. I-A II-A type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in Kokuryo Pacijae ancient Silla Gaya. I-B II-2-A type was also found in most of the old tombs except Kokuryo. Then II-2-A type was transmitted to Japanese Heart shaped Earring. I-A, I-B, II-1, II-2-A type was general style in ancient Silla gaya. Ii-1-B, II-2-B. II-3-A type was excavated from the only Pacjae tombs and II-3-B type was excavated from Kokuryo tombs. II-3-A, II-3-B type was unique style that was found in old tombs in Kokuryo, Pacjae.

• 복식
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• 제21권
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• pp.19-30
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• 1993

There are record that ancient Korean WOOl fabrics male from sheep, camel, rabbit. bear, horse. calile, raccoon dog, fox and so on. Wool fiber fabriher were also reported Kye, Gal, China, Tap Dung, Kuyu anul ram. These wool fabrics wre named amongling to their fineness and weaving method in the fabric. Technology of wool fabric weaving was developed and from Sam Kuk dynasties to to Koryo Dynasty wool fabrics were reported to weave and trade to China, Japan and Arabia. These fabrics were mainly used as clothes, rugs or blankets. In Koryo Dynasty, especially Kye Kurn was used for trading goods to China. There is another record that two thousand sheep, camels offord Koryo by Yo and Kum Dynasty. In this study, the characteristics of Korean wool fabrics will be disscussed from the literature survey of the relevant references.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.67-75
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• 2003

In fashion history, the color "green" has been used from ancient to modern times constantly. Especially nowadays, the worth of green in fashion is becoming bigger than ever before to express the longing for pure nature. The purpose of this study is to define green's imageries in western costume history. For the basic about green, first of all, this study researched green of origin, effect and costumes in western history, then classified green's imageries. Green's imageries expressed in western costumes can be divided mainly into a 'nature imagery' and a 'religious divinity imagery'. Nature imagery was extended again into 'youth, devil, citizen and ecology image'. Youth image came from the luxurious feature of nature and it was extended again into 'innocent love, virgin and immaturity'. Religious divinity imagery has been represented in the ancient Egypt, Islam and Christian religion. In those cultures, green was considered as a sacred color of Osiris, Mahomet and Holy spirit.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 1995

This study is concerned with the julpoong of Koguryo. The meaning, form, structure, user, the origin of the word the julpoong were examined. The pien of he ancient China and the julpoong of Koguryo were examined. The result of the analysis of this study is as follows. The Chinese and the people of Koguryo used the meanings of the julpoong differently : the Chinese referred the julpoong to the conical hat with the seams including one seam on it, while the people of Koguryo called the julpoong as the conical hat with seams excluding one seam on it. the people of Koguryo called the julpoong with one seam as the chack . The julpoong was used by all people of Koguryo : the government officials, envoys, and the commoners wore it. The word julpoong of Koguryo was derived from dulband, dulband, dubend, dolband of Persians. the word julpoong is correspondent with the above the persian words. The julpoong of Koguryo word was transliteration of dulband(dulband, dulbend, dolband) meaning turban or sash. The hat called chack by the people of 고구려 was the conical hat with one sea and their meaning of he chack was different from the meaning of the chack of the Chinese. The julpoong a kind of conical hat, was called by the pine by the ancient Chinese.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.485-492
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Cone shaped Pendants in old tombs of Three Kingdom States. These Cone shaped Pendants are made of bronze and coated with gold plate or Gold. Each Cone shaped Pendants consists of a Sehwhan(細環) type or Taewhan type, a median part in the form of a several joined small globe, or circular shape, and finally a cone-shared pendant. Cone shaped Pendants is 5 part(A-L A-b, B-1-a, B-1-b, B-2-b type) in according to the styles of the Sehwhan(細環) and Taewhan type and median ornament types. A-a, A-b, B-1-a, B-1-b type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in Kokuryo, Pacjae, ancient Silla. B-2-b type was excavated from the only Kokuryo tombs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.441-460
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• 2002

Funeral culture, which came to being along with the death of human beings, has developed through many changes in the background, culture, religion and custome of the times, having variant cultures depending on each nation or era. This study is designed to historically and systematically classify funeral rituals and costumes which have constantly changed in a special funeral culture from ancient times to modern times so as to investigate the features of each age. The researcher worked on Western funeral cultures, focusing on Egypt and Rome of ancient times, Creek times, the Middle Ages, recent and modern times ages, referring to literature, precedent studies, domestic and international technical books, pictures and drawings in relation to death and funeral services. Western funeral rituals were designed for offering condolence to the dead, but also used to show off the status of the mourners and the position of the dead persons. The mourning dress were utilized to indicate mourning in accordance with the colors, materials and the ways of wearing them, serving as a vehicle for showing off one's own status.