• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.121-133
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• 2017

This study investigates the design relation between shoulder line and sleeve line for designing bulky silhouettes as well as examines the trend sensitivity and design difference of each city through a comparison of the four cities collection (Paris, Milan, London, and New York). The results are as follows. In the four major fashion capitals, the rates of all-season coats were higher in 2014/15 F/W than those in the 2013/14 F/W season. At the 2014/15 F/W season, the proportion of the bulky silhouette coat, (including the fur and cape coat) increased and confirmed the bulky silhouette fashion trend. Second, an examining of the proportion of bulky silhouette coats manufactured by leading brands in major cities, indicated that London brands readily followed the trend of bulky silhouette coats when compared to other cities. This trend was also accepted by most brands in New York. Most brands in London and New York are highly compliant with the latest fashion trends. Third, the drop shoulder design was mostly presented in the shoulder pit of the bulky coat. In case of the sleeve, the shape of the jar was kept wide at the elbow line and made narrower toward the beak in most bulky silhouette coats. The importance of shoulder and sleeve design is clearly highlighted in the bulky silhouette coat. Fourth, detail design trends were different according to type of sleeve and shoulder fit. The results show the relationship between shoulder and sleeve design.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.68-68
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• 2003

Recently, street fashion has been regularly introduced in many fashion media because both consumers and marketers began to recognize the importance of street fashion as a meaningful and objective fashion information source. As the globalization proceeds in fashion field,' the street fashion informations in major cities which has led world fashion trends become more influential on domestic fashion, but little concern has been paid on it. This study classified women's street fashion in 4 major world fashion cities such as Paris, London, New York, Tokyo and identified style characteristics of each group. For data collection, 795 front-view photos were selected from the two fashion trade publication 'STREET' and 'VIEW' which has introduced street fashion photos in those cities from 1996. Classification process went on three stages: sorting, naming and grouping. 49 undergraduate students were divided into 12 teams and about 80 photos were given to each team to sort into several sub-groups by overall images or common style characteristics. Then each sub-group was named according to common images or characteristics. Final groups came out after grouping each sub-group with a similar or same title together. For each group, common style characteristics were analyzed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.67-76
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• 2002

This research examines the characteristic trends through analysis on cue in the contemporary fashion distinctly and systematically. It is carried out by both qualitative analysis and quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the four important street fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportivecasual and technos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s S/S. It takes frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test and etc. by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the S/S fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special makeup. 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.628-643
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• 2015

This study is to assist in developing creative designs based on the humor available in the fashion world of Moschino. For the research method, this writing examined literature on humor and Moschino's fashion world and analyzed Moschino's fashion collection, show window, Maison Moschino, and collaborative products to conduct an empirical analysis of humor shown to the fashion media. The research results are as follows. The humor in Moschino's fashion appeared in the form of surrealistic humor with the depaysement technique, deconstructive wit in clothing, such as distortion, change, or exaggeration, and textual humor, including brand symbols, logos, and graffiti. Collection pieces indicated the brand's confirmative identity based on humor with the surrealistic depaysement technique and deconstructive wit through irregular phenomena, such as change, distortion, exaggeration, and illusion in clothing form. Additionally, such attributes added to Moschino's wit and humor in decorative costume components as graphic images, graffiti, and brand symbols, including smile, love, and reversal. The show window display delivered surprises and smiles through the production of surrealistic space borrowed from various objects. In particular, performance with surrealistic images helped to show the characteristics of parodic humor. Maison Moschino was a surrealistic space for the concept of the fairy tale and for practical experience, thus working as a communication channel for humor and emotion. Collaborative products also clearly reflected the identity of the designer's own humor, which showed scarcity value as well as differentiation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.779-798
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to propose the direction of veganism-based fashion design in environmental and animal protection through the theoretical consideration of vegan fashion and the analysis of the practical design characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion. The research was conducted through literature research and case studies. After investigating the concept and characteristics of vegan fashion, focusing on previous studies and various fashion-related Internet data, Stella McCartney's fashion was examined with particular attention on vegan characteristics. The results of the study are as follows: First, imitative nature pursues animal and environmental protection, but the motif or appearance is a characteristic of pursuing a multi-purpose design that imitates animals and nature. Second, expression of value is based on slow fashion, simplicity, and sustainable minimal design. It is expressed indirectly by pursuing permanence, simplicity, and long-wearable design, or directly expressing vegan values through phrases expressed in performances or costumes in the collection. Third, alternative eco-friendliness is characterized by using cruelties-free materials such as faux fur, recycling materials, new bio-materials, and regenerated materials. These vegan characteristics are comprehensively and organically expressed in the works of the collection, and through this, sustainable and eco-friendly vegan fashion is pursued. It is anticipated that by deriving the vegan fashion characteristics of Stella McCartney, who represents vegan fashion, it will be possible to provide the basis for practical direction and design methods for fashion brands aiming for vegan fashion styles.

• The Journal of Economics, Marketing and Management
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2021

Purpose: The article deals with the proposition that consumers' fashion consumption behavior will still follow the consumption behavior of fast fashion, despite recognizing the importance of slow fashion. Research design, data and methodology: The research model to verify this proposition is topic modelling with big data including unstructured textual data. we combined 5,506 news articles posted on Naver news search platform during the 2003-2019 period about fast fashion and slow fashion, high-frequency words have been derived, and topics have been found using LDA model. Based on these, we examined consumers' perception and consumption behavior on slow fashion through the analysis of Topic Network. Results: (1) Looking at the status of annual article collection, consumers' interest in slow fashion mainly began in 2005 and showed a steady increase up to 2019. (2) Term Frequency analysis showed that the keywords for slow fashion are the lowest, with consumers' consumption patterns continuing around 'brand.' (3) Each topic's weight in articles showed that 'social value' - which includes slow fashion - ranked sixth among the 9 topics, low linkage with other topics. (4) Lastly, 'brand' and 'fashion trend' were key topics, and the topic 'social value' accounted for a low proportion. Conclusion: Slow fashion was not a considerable factor of consumption behavior. Consumption patterns in fashion sector are still dominated by general consumption patterns centered on brands and fast fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.5
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• pp.444-454
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• 2001

The purpose of this paper was to identify and compare the underlying design theory of contemporary European and Japanese fashion designers by using the qualitative research method of grounded theory developed by Glaser and Strauss (1967) and Glaser (1978). In this research, four fashion sites-Paris, Milan, London and Tokyo-were selected. The researcher stayed in each site for a period of two to three weeks for the purpose of data collection. A total of 60 fashion designers, educators, students and journalists were interviewed. 53 open-ended design questionnaires were returned by fashion designers and students. 19 on-site observations of fashion designers and educators were done. Grounded theories of fashion designers were synthesized from in-depth interviews, participant observations and questionnaire surveys of fashion designers, students and educators. The results of theory-building research suggested that there were significant differences between the grounded design theories of European and Japanese fashion designers due to their various cultural contexts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.45-60
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• 2017

This study analyzed the type of format and content expression of fashion films, from the perspective of promotion and advertisement. For the analysis, a reference research and case study were employed. Our results showed that the format type of fashion films are categorized as movie type; films that convey a story through lines and provide an interesting element as well as artistic value;, video clip films which consist of intriguing sections in a short-length film;, animation type; films that deliver a message through the virtualized world and a created character;, and music video fashion films that use the musical technique to convey how the story of fashion film is structured. The type of content expression of fashion films are divided into direct expression, which exposes the collection of clothes and accessories directly in fashion films;, metaphorical type; which visually delivers the brand image and product;, and the documentary type; that delivers the brand story and historical facts related to the brand. The study on the analysis of fashion films through type of format and content expression shows how fashion brands effectively and strongly promote their products, enhance their brand values, and increase an interest among the customers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.132-149
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• 2023

This study aims to analyze Instagram hashtags based on big data to investigate changes in consumer trends and perceptions of vegan fashion, and to derive strategies for revitalizing vegan fashion brands based on derived results. Among social media, Instagram was selected as a collection channel, and Instagram hashtags for 'Vegan Fashion' were collected from July 1, 2021 to December 31, 2021. After conducting semantic network analysis with the Ucinet 6 program based on the collected data, the CONCOR analysis on vegan fashion showed the following four clusters: 'Veganism practiced with fashion', 'Bag type of vegan fashion brand', 'Sharing vegan fashion', and 'Diversification of eco-friendly products'. Analysis results showed that the Instagram hashtag for vegan fashion confirmed the MZ generation's increased interest in vegan fashion and their thoughts to recommend and share frequently used items or brand products to people around them. CONCOR analysis of vegan fashion brands showed the following four groups: 'Differentiating the material of vegan bags', 'Eco-friendly products of vegan fashion brands', 'Interest in vegan shoes', and 'Donation campaign of vegan fashion brands'. CONCOR analysis on Meaningout showed the following four clusters: 'MZ Generation's Meaningout Start-up', 'Recommendation Platform for Skin Products', 'Value Consumption Trend for Eco-friendly Clothing', and 'Interest in Eco-friendly Packaging'. The results of this study on vegan fashion, a practical eco-friendly movement that can require changes in social responsibility and perception as issues that directly affect animals, the environment, and humans, are expected to provide basic data to help domestic vegan fashion brands develop marketing strategies.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2017

Ralph Rucci, the first American designer who presented official collections at Paris Couture since Mainbocher, is known for his innovative dressmaking techniques and sculptural forms. Accompanied by literature survey, this study examines the aesthetics of Ralph Rucci's designs by content analysis of his works, Rucci's designs since his debut collection of 1994 until he left the Chado Ralph Rucci label in 2014 and his returning collection under the new label, RR331, in 2016. Ralph Rucci developed his creative designs by the following strategies: First, he reinvents the couture tradition of Balenciaga and $Gr{\grave{e}}s$ into progressive and functional American couture in that he gives consideration to a wearer's movements and comforts. Second, Rucci constructs architectural volume based on human anatomy and architectonic strategies, with the attention to three-dimensional quality of the space built between the body and a garment. Third, he conducts engineered construction summarized by his original 'suspension' techniques, which function as both ornamentation and construction.