• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.135-148
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• 2009

The purpose of this research is to examine changes in Japanese fashion design through analysis of the background and characteristics of 'Japanesque Modern'. With the advent of globalization and pressures to enhance international competitiveness, key players in both Japanese government and industry feel an urgent need to establish a distinctive brand for its products. 'Japanesque Modern' was launched in January 2006 as a nationwide campaign through the support of the Japanese Ministry of International Trade and Industry (MITI). 'Japanesque Modern' strives to be a national movement, enhancing Japan's brand image while promoting continuous industrial innovation. 'Japanesque Modern' unites Japanese culture, design, and aesthetics with advanced technology, bringing traditional concepts to enrich contemporary life styles. In order to exemplify the 'Japanesque Modern' ideal, existing market products and content that reflect the concept were selected for the 'Japanesque Modern Collection' by the Japanesque Modern Council. In making these selections, the Council emphasized criteria based on three Japanese spiritual values: Craftsmanship; Manner; and Hospitality. As a result, three designs concepts have emerged in the 'Japanesque Modern Collection': the 'convergent method'; the 'conversion method'; and the 'emphasis method'. This research will explore these design concepts and their relationship to 'Japanesque Modern'.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.95-108
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the historical change of Paris Collection in relation to the social and cultural environment. Together with the various changes in society, creates fashion, the historical background of the Paris Collections is analyzed from the end of the 19th century until the present. The research method includes analysis entered on data from literature and magazines. From this study, the following conclusions can be reached. 1. Paris Collection is composed of various situations such as the economic aspect, the changing society, the change of the costumes, the change of consumer's consciousness, etc,. 2. The position and role of Paris Collection will be changed in the future. But, there is no alternative. Paris Collection is the best system which we need in our society. 3. Since the level of the planning of the apparel industry becoming raised rapidly, Paris collection tend to avoid the traditional aspect. 4. In order to make good product, good understanding of the historical background need. It must be considered to understand changes such as consumers lifestyles, social trend, etc.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.83-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the perception of retro fashion and new-tro fashion using big data. TEXTOM allowed the collection of big data on the words 'retro fashion' and 'new-tro fashion', which was refined afterwards. As for the data collection period, Jan. 1, 2019 to Nov. 30, 2022 was set. A top 50 list of words were extracted from this data based on appearance frequency. The extracted words were processed through Network centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis using Ucinet 6. The results are as follows. 1) In retro fashion, the appearance frequency of 'style' was the highest, followed by 'sensibility', 'color', 'trend', 'fashion', and 'brand'. These words came up with high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis discovered that 'color', 'style', 'trend', 'sensibility', and 'design' had high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed a total of four significant groups; trends, styles, looks, and photos. 2) In new-tro fashion, the appearance frequency of 'retro' was the highest, followed by 'trend', 'generation', 'style', 'brand', and 'fashion'. These words also came up with high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis found that 'retro', 'trend', 'generation', and 'brand' had high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed a total of four significant groups; style, brand, clothing, and trend. 3) New-tro fashion is included in retro fashion in that it reproduces the styles of the past. However, it is taken completely differently from generation to generation. Unlike the older generations, millennials actively accept newly created clothes and brands based on the past styles. They perceive it as a fashion that reveals their own unique tastes and tastes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.86-99
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• 2007

In this study, the concept of play as an entertainment is redefined and applicable method of fashion design as a play are suggested by analyzing the feature of doll's costume design based on the play pattern. In literary study, the role of playing doll Is described and has been examined by the analysis of scholars' opinions. In positive study, the pattern and costume design of sample costume dolls are analyzed using 624 samples of the representative images collected from the literatures and real figures, and they are classified as collection dolls or fashion dolls in order to analyze the feature of fashion design in playing dolls. As a result of the analysis of doll's costumes based on its use, the costumers are divided into a real world costume which is similar to what human wear in daily life and a virtual costume which is used in the movie or play and the costumes only worn by the dolls. The examination of the type of costume worn by dolls, dress is principally dominant costume in collection doll, whereas in fashion doll, dress is still mainly worn but shirt blouse & pants, shirt blouse k skirt, jacket, coat, bathing suit. etc. are shown dispersedly as well. In the costume silhouette of dolls, collection doll uses mostly A line silhouette meanwhile fit and flare is mostly used in the fashion doll but other silhouettes are also relatively shown a lot. In the means of the color of the costume worn by dolls, collection doll is more similar to those in actual fashion design. On the contrary, the color of the costume that fashion doll is put on is more free and more various because the trendy rotors such as green, yellow, purple, etc are used.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.709-725
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• 2021

The study focused on the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Carl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel and Fendi until his recent death. The range of the study was from the 2017 S/S Collection to the 2019 F/W Collection, which collected a total of 767 fashion photographs, including 483 Chanel, 284 Fendi, with tops, bottoms and dresses at VOGUE (https://www.vogue.com). According to the data analysis criteria organized based on prior research and related literature, it was classified in the order of form, color, material, pattern, decoration, fashion image, item and coordination, and content analysis was conducted based on statistical analysis. Overall, the design characteristics of the Chanel collection, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, were rectangle form, tone in tone coloring, combination of identical materials, geometric patterns, and classical images as the main design characteristics of the Chanel collection. The design characteristics shown in the Fendi collection directed by Karl Lagerfeld were rectangle form, tone in tone coloration, hard material combination, abstract pattern, and total coordination. Comparing the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, is as follows. Chanel and Fendi's designs show a lot of rectangle form, tone-in-tone colors, hard-materials and combination of the same material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.76-90
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• 2015

Based on a concept of Nietzschean nihilism, this study aimed at interpreting the nihilism in arts and its expressions, also analyzing the modern fashion collection from the same angle. The research was centered on arts after 1980, when post-modern formal destruction expanded in earnest and on the fashion collection after the 20th century, easily accessible to data. Particularly, it set 1994 nihilism collection by Alexander McQueen, a representative nihilist fashion designer as a starting point. Nietzsche mentioned that true arts may be achieved when Apollonian characteristics including a bodily sensory system and an idealization process and Dionysian characteristics including every human feeling are integrated. Besides, he emphasized the importance of an artist being represented as an image of ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$. The ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image, reflected in arts and artistic nihilism, represents themes of violence/death, realistic/unrealistic expressions, human body/inhuman aversion materials and the transmutation of a form. Fashion collection expressions, owing to the special characteristic of the show form unlike other arts, were segmented as a realistic ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image using a model in a theme, expression, material and form. The theme of violence/death was divided into the death of human and a society. Human life/death was expressed as destruction of human weakness and self-identity, sexual objectification and violence, and social death as destruction and conflict of a class, nation, culture and nature. As for the expression, it was divided into the realistic expression of the primitive/natural and directing of an unrealistic atmosphere using a show.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.16-32
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• 2016

This study examines music visualization characteristics appearing in Giorgio Armani's S/S 2000 Collection and Genny's F/W 2000 Collection, which elicited and reinterpreted the characteristics through an analysis of Kandinsky's paintings. Study results are as follows. First, music visualization characteristics were extracted through an analysis of Kandinsky's works to examine music visualization that appears in contemporary fashion. Further analysis of Kandinsky's works were done in regards to music visualization (Impression, Improvisation, and Composition), and music visualization characteristics were categorized into 'spatial element', 'mobility', and 'overlap'. Second, the analysis of contemporary fashion with a spatial component showed that space was often clothed through color contrasts that highlighted concise and playful effects. Emphasis on line and three-dimensional effects were shown by overlapping lines and costume pleats with exposure expressed by semiotic forms and fabric character4istics. Third, the analysis of clothes that express mobility shows that they commonly express mobility through free color arrangements and a shading of colors with playfulness. The effects of emphasis, uniformity, and exposure were shown through the gloss and transformation of fabric that emphasized fabric characteristics; in addition, the effect of simplicity, three-dimensionality, and uniformity were expressed by adopting the forms of geometric shapes. Fourth, the analysis of clothes that manifest the overlap showed a predominant overlapping of colors and fabric. The esthetic effects of playfulness and exposure were emphasized through colors, shapes, and lines.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.182-191
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• 2013

This study compares the trend analysis for characteristics of design from 2007 to 2011. According to analyzed results for each year's jean fashion, the 2007's aesthetic feature was a unified and simple design. From 2008 to 2010, the design features were various and rich, and features of 2011 were defined by simplicity with diversity. S/S season's feature were more diverse and balanced than the F/W season. Particularly, washing techniques represent a distinct skill, regardless of season. An analysis of each collection showed that the Paris collection had different and diverse forms; however, it was gorgeous to enjoy the design of a young sense in Milano. London's jean fashion was pale, light, and a dull tone. New York's jean fashion presented a young and practical value to catch other's eyes. There is a need to increase and increase the expectations of customer desire and the high value-added jean fashion industry. New ideas need to be developed for varieties of design and expression of techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.5-24
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• 1999

The globalization of Korean beauty comes partly from the succession of korean traditional culture and its modernization will be the one of very important issues in 21st century. This paper was done in order to analyze the process of Korean design development in modern Korean fashion in terms of the succession and modernization of Koreantraditional Beauty and based on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean traditional beauty andbased on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean fashion in 21st century. 227 fashion designs which represent typical elements of korean traditional costume were selected from fashion magazines books SFAA collection books and company brochures published from 1986, to 1997. Content analysis was used with 8 variables including 7 design elements(line shape, color, textile, motif, detail, accessories) and year. Results of analysis showed that the process of Korean Design development in modern Korean fashion has in the use of straight lines and simple silhouettes. Diversity could be found in the application of various kinds of outwear items as well as in the variety of materials and details. Symbolic tradtional motifs and accessories were used to enliven the Korean folklore image, These trends became more salient with the turning point of 1993 when a few designers began to participate in Paris Collection. For successful globalization designers should have more active attitudes toward exploiting the essence of Korean beauty and developing them as modern and global styles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.793-809
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• 2013

This study examined the trend and aesthetic value of image fashion of the 21st century through empirical case study with image media as fashion communication tool. This research is intended to provide the basic material for both better comprehension of image fashion as emotional medium in the modern fashion and more activated research on interactivity and communication in the fashion communication area by examining how fashion designers deliver their design philosophy, thought and vision via image fashion. For the research method, the theoretical study was realized about image media and fashion communication with focus on related literature and precedent research. Also, the empirical study was performed about image fashion covering 2005 through 2012 by the group of fashion film, fashion animation, and video look-book. Fashion image in the research was developed into various layouts that include the story based or non-story based creative images, many kinds of episode or behind-the-scenes story in the prep course of collection, designer's personal life or product world, or re-cutting course after collection. It also played a communicative role for public relation of new product ad, concept conveyance of seasonal collections, means as online collection to substitute for the existing offline collections, and better understandings of designer or fashion brand. Aesthetic values derived from case analysis of image fashion in the modern fashion of 21st century appeared in the form of trans-boundary as convergence art, fantasy in harmony with virtuality and reality, and interactivity among the humans, image media and fashions.