• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.139-148
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• 2010

As a designer, Rei Kawakubo had become one of the most influential woman of the 20th century. Comme des Garçons, which means "like boys"-what women in the early 1980s were least supposed to be-expressed criticism of the prevailing social construct of women and, importantly, of the very concept of fashion. The press had a field day with the so-called post Hiroshima look, with its aesthetic of destruction, poverty, and hunger and with its depressing mood engendered by the use of the color black. This research divided the change of design transition on Kawakubo's fashion by the three categories. The first category was experimental pattern, the second category was esthetics of omission and the third category was innovation of body consciousness. The costume messages through these design works of Kawakubo could summarize 5 items, punk sprit, beyond sex, reality, proposal of new body consciousness and representation of black.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.654-666
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• 1999

Korean Costume has long history and functional aesthetic value compared with the traditional costume of other contries. But nowadays korean Costume is becoming more and more distant from the people in the world wide current. To domiciliate and spread out the Practical Korean Costume which the goverment selected as CI symbol representing Korean culture in the trend of times. We investigated and analysed systemically the consciousness of customers and the details of design. This study consist of theoritical study and positive study. Theoritical study has the esthetic characteristic(structure characteristics formative characteristic and the characteristic of color) As the conciousness of people change in modern life which everything change in high speed the esthetic characteristics of Korean Costume have changed in structure.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제10권
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• pp.183-218
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• 2006

Colors change in time corresponding with the value system and aesthetic consciousness of the time. The roles that colors play in painting can be divided into the formative role based on the contrast and harmony of color planes and the aesthetic role expressed by colors to represent the objects. The aesthetic consciousness of the orient starts with the Civility(禮) and Pleasure(樂), which is closely related with restrained or tempered human feelings. In the art world of the orient including poem, painting, and music, what are seen and felt from the objects are not represented in all. Added by the sentiment laid background, the beauty of the orient emphasizes the beauty of restraint and temperance, which has long been the essential aesthetic emotion of the orient. From the very inception of oriental painting, colors had become a symbolic system in which the five colors associated with the philosophy of Yin and Yang and Five Forces were symbolically connected with the four sacred animals of Red Peacock, Black Turtle, Blue Dragon, and White Tiger. In this color system the use of colors was not free from ideological matters, and was further constrained by the limited color production and distribution. Therefore, development in color expression seemed to have been very much limited because of the unavailability and unreadiness of various colors. Studies into the flow in oriental painting show that color expression in oriental painting have changed from symbolic color expression to poetic expression, and then to emotional color expression as the mode of painting changes in time. As oriental painting transformed from the art of religious or ceremonial purpose to one of appreciation, the mast visible change in color expression is the one of realism(simulation). Rooted on the naturalistic color expression of the orient where the fundamental properties of objects were considered mast critical, this realistic color expression depicts the genuine color properties that the objects posses, with many examples in the Flower & Bird Painting prior to the North Sung dynasty. This realistic expression of colors changed as poetic sentiments were fused with painting in later years of the North Sung dynasty, in which a conversion to light ink and light coloring in the use of ink and colors was witnessed, and subjective emotion was intervened and represented. This mode of color expression had established as free and creative coloring with vivid expression of individuality. The fusion of coloring and lyricism was borrowed from the trend in painting after the North Sung dynasty which was mentioned earlier, and from the trend in which painting was fused with poetic sentiments to express the emotion of artists, accompanied with such features as light coloring and compositional change. Here, the lyricism refers to the artist's subjective perspective of the world and expression of it in refined words with certain rhythm, the essence of which is the integration of the artist's ego and the world. The poetic ego projects the emotion and sentiment toward the external objects or assimilates them in order to express the emotion and sentiment of one's own ego in depth and most efficiently. This is closely related with the rationale behind the long-standing tradition of continuous representation of same objects in oriental painting from ancient times to contemporary days. According to the thoughts of the orient, nature was not just an object of expression, but recognized as a personified body, to which the artist projects his or her emotions. The result is the rebirth of meaning in painting, completely different from what the same objects previously represented. This process helps achieve the integration and unity between the objects and the ego. Therefore, this paper discussed the lyrical expression of colors in the works of the author, drawing upon the poetic expression method reflected in the traditional Flower and Bird Painting, one of the painting modes mainly depending on color expression. Based on the related discussion and analysis, it was possible to identify the deep thoughts and the distinctive expression methods of the orient and to address the significance to prioritize the issue of transmission and development of these precious traditions, which will constitute the main identity of the author's future work.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.159-175
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• 1999

In literature, a description of costume represents an individual's characteristics when the object is an individual. If the literary object is a certain group in a certain region, it would play an important role in representing the culture of time. It clearly shows that aesthetic consciousness of Hyo-Suk Lee who had accepted the western dandyism was well expressed in his literary works. Hyo-Suk has been unique in describing life-styles such as beauty of costume, art-for-art's sake, and leisure activities, and color imagery in his works. The color and the style of the costume show us the mental state of the wearer. They also affect the emotional states of other people. Hyo-Suk's "Pollen(화분)" and "Byukongmuhan(벽공무한)" confirm the fact that the mentality of the people can be hinted through the description of costume. They also ascertain that the color imagery retained by a special color can be altered by different circumstances and settings. Hyo-Suk applies in his works the effect of vivid color contrast, which newly appeared in Fauvism, to the description of costume. In consequence, he reflects the color aesthetics of Modern Art in which the fine art has an effect on the applied art.

• 복식
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• 제12권
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• pp.9-23
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• 1988

This study is on the costumes for Korean traditional play, Nong-ak(farm music), and intends to analyze their aesthetic features, laying emphasis on Pilbong Nong-ak, Im sil, Chollanam-do. About its origin there are many kinds of theories; for example, the theory of hoping stability, the theory of it being related with Buddhism, the theory of martial music, etc. Shamanic, Buddhist, and martical fators that support these theories are expressed through flags, bells, drums, Deograe (half-coats), Cheonrips (sang-mo, felf hats), go-kkals(peaked hats), colored lines called 'ga-sa', which are used in Nong-ak. The characteristic of the costumes used in Pilbong Nong-ak is that it keeps its conservativeness and the costumes of its members are various and splendid. For example, leader groups' black half coats, Changbu's and Hwa-dong's red and bule over coats are remarkable. Particpants wear gok-kal or cheonrip, trousers and half coats which are the basic costumes of Korean Hanbok, and wear blak half coats or blue vests and put blue, red, and yellow lines around them. The colors and knotting methods of those lines in this region are the same with those of chollawoo-do and Kyongi province, but different form those of Kongwon and Kyong-sang province using green, red, and yellow colors. This comparison of colors shows each region's preference of peculiar colors and those colors coincide with colors used in flags. The research on the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes through each region's clothes tells us that these can be linear clothes which have expressiveness as stage clothes used in Madangori, the play which is performed in the field, and modern spatial formativeness. Those characteristics are as follows; 1. The expressions of a rhythmical and daring round line by turning a long line of sang-mo. 2. Various rhythms according to the attaching methods. 3. The expressions of thick, simple, and daring color lines. 4. Natural beauty of materials. 5. The popular simplicity and non-technicality 6. The beauty of five-direction colors, Oriental ideal colors Consequently in this study our national consciousness of beauty are examined through clothes. It is suggested that the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes and ornaments should be effectively expressed, for this purpose. interests in participants' clothes should be increased in order to prevent the confusion of each region's features. Also it is necessary to improve color lines, their length, width, and knotting methods, and beautify instrument. Finally this study intends to bring the reappraisal about the art of Nong-ak clothes and its re-establishment in view of modern aesthetic consciousness.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.807-821
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to develop a design as a high value-added exportable industrial product by developing a cultural product, that can be accepted as having universal beauty by people in the Western cultural area. This is done by, re-analyzing it from a modern perspective after applying the color representation, used in pop art, to Shin Saimdang's Chochungdo (草蟲圖, insects on flowers) which clearly expresses Korea's national emotion and aesthetic consciousness. The research method depends upon developing cultural products such as scarfs, neckties, handkerchiefs, and folding fans, which are communicated in the global market The expressive technique of pop art is utilized after reconstructing the color sensation of pop art in the aesthetic dimension of the natural, physical, and formative beauty of Chochungdo based on the whole understanding of our country's genre of Chochungdo and Western pop art. With regard to the colors in the developed design, the basic colors were extracted and applied by selecting 10 pieces in the flower series, which were made with the silkscreen printmaking technique in the 1970s by Andy Warhol, a master in pop art. A work that integrates pop art, a global art trend, with Korean traditional culture is expected to highlight Korean traditional culture in the global cultural era.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권3호
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.27-40
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• 2002

The purpose of this thesis is presenting desirable design of uniform which could reflect high school girls' demands with the researches on their consciousness of fashion and actual state of uniforms. Methods to accomplish this research include first, examinationson characteristics of high school girls and their consciousness of fashion with relevant articles, second, interviews with designers from major domestic uniform brands - ELITE, IVY, SMART - and third, analysis on related internet sites. Practical researches are followed by design analysis and proposal of improvement on high school girls' uniform, accompanied by collection of photographs from field studies, major uniform brands' shops and uniform related internet sites. Korean high school girls in the digital era are able to express themselves in each different fashion with own individuality, preference or intention, as they are particularly interested in clothes or their appearances. Their consciousness of fashion became visible in a shape of negative attitude and dissatisfaction with uniforms due to its out-of-date design, lack of features and inconvenience in action. Besides more than half of high school girls already experienced reforming it for better looks. As a result of current analysis on references of uniform designs, various levels of refinement were noticed even in uniform of similar details, design, fabric textile and color due to differences on size & length of jacket collar, dart, cutting line, size of details, decorative line, easiness in fit, length of clothes, and etc. To provide students of more refined and desired designs which reflect their demands, current uniforms are to begin acquiring delicate changes with present vogue and feature such as size of details, silhouette, cutting line, decorative line and etc. In addition newly designed uniforms are to present desirable design with image of refinement and neat as they actively comprehend students' needs within its symbolic, functional, economic and aesthetic characteristics by nature.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.537-548
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• 2000

This paper focuses on development of a fashion design education course that will foster the talent and aesthetic consciousness of fashion design student. The writer reached the content of the designing ideas to practical applications as the defined scope of fashion design education. For designing idea in practical application : matching ideas, contrasting ideas, formative combinations and revisionism were used. For design ideas, the ideas developed by 飯塚弘子, 万江入重子, 香川達子 were used in revision. To detail the content of design education, fashion magazines, portfolios, photographs and related fashion design educational materials were used. 1. Matching ideas : it proposes such identical expression into costume by making a research of developing material, application form and color extraction from design sources. 2. Contrasting ideas : it proposes such opposite expression into costume by making a research of opposite to image, form, position and purpose from some object. 3. Formative combinations : it proposes such new expression into costume by combining a detail of costume with the other object. 4. Revisionism : it proposes such modified expression into costume by making a research of deletion, change, addition and conversion in costume.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.112-119
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• 2012

Dresses reflecting human aesthetic consciousness are used as a way of expressing the inner desire of human beings. The desire to attract the opposite sex through sexual appeal among the human inner desires is the one innate characteristic that all human beings have. We may say that the $See-through$ look emphasizes a sense of softness and femininity by exposing the skin and expresses bodily beauty by way of using see-through cloth. It is a fashion style that can express sexual appeal and eroticism of female most effectively. In this study, after observing the motivation of dress wearing and $See-through$ look in the perspective of bodily concept and eroticism, colors of $See-through$ look shown in the $Pret-a-Porter$ Paris S/S collection from 2006 and 2007, a fashion style expressing eroticism was newly re-analyzed as romanticism and glam look particularly in 60, 80s compared with other times were re-created and evaluated. As a result of analyzing colors of the $See-through$ look, Yellow Red(close to skin color) was revealed to be the highest( 31.3%), followed by Red(9%), Purple Blue(7.2%), Yellow(7.2%), Purple(5.4%), respectively and in terms of color tone, pale and gray tones that have a sense of femininity and softness was revealed to the highest(20%) followed by ltg(11%) and dkg(9%). We may find the meaning of this study in analyzing colors of the $See-through$ look, and the typical look of eroticism, which has never been tried before. It is required to identify chronological color features of the $See-through$ look and the diversified characteristics of skin colors expressed in them to prepare useful data by which a sense of the $See-through$ look can be utilized for color coordination through the relationship between skin tone and dress by pursuing a more detailed method based on the result of this study.