• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.4 no.1
• /
• pp.97-111
• /
• 2000

The term Japonism was coined in France where the predilection for Japanese art forms was immediately apparent, influencing Impressionism, Symbolism, Post-Impressionism, and later the Art Nouveau movement, all of which reflect aspects of Japanese art adapted to Western style. The 1968 May Revolution in Paris changed traditional thinking and shifted the center of fashion of the 1970's from haute couture to pret-a porter. At about the same time, having recovered from the destruction of war, Japan started to emerge as a leading economic force. The Japanese clothing designers, who were inspired by their own traditions, began to present their collections in the West. Hanae Mori's dresses with Japanese floral motifs were the first to appear. The West was captivated by the colorfully layered clothing of Kenzo Takada inspired by peasant and working class kimonos. And Issey Miyake was acclaimed for his innovative concepts of ‘one piece of cloth'. In the 1980s Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto achieved recognition with their deconstructivist and minimalist approaches to fashion. The clothing proposed by these Japanese designers has transcended not only national and sexual boundaries, but also those of accepted materials in which to work. These designs suggest new possibilities and are unrestricted by preconceived ideas of kimono or of Western clothing. The emergence of Japanese designers as a powerful creative force in the late twentieth century has created a new dimension to the term Japonism in fashion. By integrating the clothing traditions of the West and Japan, while at the same time departing from them, a new international genre of clothing has been created.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.169-181
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide basic information for developing a smart taekwondo uniform with enhanced functionality for children by investigating the wearing condition and satisfaction of taekwondo uniform among taekwondo training children. The data were collected from 162 children living in Seoul and Daegu. For data analysis were performed descriptive statistics, ${\chi}2$ -test and t-test using SPSS Ver. 12. The results of the analysis are as follows. The results revealed that respondents wearing the general training uniform during their training period were the most. The dissatisfaction for the general training uniform was a high price, lack of symbolic, lack of functionality in textiles, lack of variety in design and unfittness of size in order. The developed uniform can adjust the length using a zipper type fastener, and can be used in all seasons as the lining is detachable. It also uses nano-silver material, and soil release finish. It enhances the functionality of movement by treating with raglan sleeve and sleeve hem velcro tape, and designs the upper garment in the draping. Safety is improved through attaching GPS, and elastic material is mixed in the neckline for putting on and off easily. Piece of cloth is added inside the closing of the upper garment. Rings are made for fixing the taekwondo uniform belt. Pocket is designed in the lower garment and colors are multiplied.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.396-406
• /
• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.105-114
• /
• 2001

The result of this study is on textile expressed in the costume of the Kazakh tribe, Kirgiz tribe, Tajik tribe. Basically the material of costume is fur, cotton flannel, felt, silk, cotton outwear, velvet cloth and beads, silver, earing, bracelet is used frequently. The tribes did embroider on the shoes, made of sheepskin or calfskin and collar, belt, button, pocket with the sketch of national trait. Eventually their cultures of costume seem to be very similar because of the resemblances in circumstance of nature, religion, custom of life but definitely they show conservatism in itself and independent culture. In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is no big difference. Then, in men, the trousers and the shirts of tunic type become the basic with the style which is convenient to act. And, to wear vest, or jacket, or chaban, over it makes a little difference. In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outwear, on the basis of one piece. But, in a small hat, head wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc., strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion, and life habit etc., But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So, it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unique identity of their own culture.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.377-389
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study is to obtain the symbolic meaning of the priestly costume through the Bible. Based on corroborative the Bible, this thesis analyzes the costume of priest. This compares the two onyx stones on the shoulder pieces with four rows of precious stones on the breastpiece. This era falls on about from the 15th century before Christ. It was found that the breastpiece was a piece of the same multicolored linen as in the ephod, a span square when folded double. It symbolizes righteousness. It hung on the high priest's chest, supported by two golden chains attached to the shoulder clasps. It symbolizes love. On the breastpiece were twelve beautiful jewels, arranged in four rows of three jewels, each jewel symbolizing one of the tribes of Israel. The variety of jewels on the breastpiece suggests the variety of people. Urim is the Hebrew word for 'lights' and therefore would logically be associated with bright or white stones. Thummim is the Hebrew word for 'perfection'. The high priest's ephod was made of gold, and of blue, purple, and scarlet yam, and of finely twisted linen. The golden yam symbolizes faith. The robe of the ephod was made entirely of blue cloth. The blue color symbolizes an obligation and life. The robe of the ephod symbolizes calling and dignity. The woven tunic symbolizes holy duty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.35-52
• /
• 2016

Yeohlee Teng's 'Urban Nomad' concept stresses high mobility and flexibility in 'Clothing-as-shelter' in order to satisfy the needs of urban dwellers. Yeohlee interprets clothing as a portable environment that protects and shelters urban nomads as well as creates space of clothing as intimate architecture. This study examines Nomadism in Yeohlee's designs since 1981 when she received the attention from the fashion critics, by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Nomadism in Yeohlee's work showed the following characterizes. First, 'modular system' deals with the organized dressing system that enables interchanging and layering of separates that function in the fifth season; second, 'organic geometry' describes the architectonic approach to clothing as wearable structure that transforms two dimensional geometry into three dimensional form; third, 'functionalism' refers to the use of technological novel materials, ergonomic clothing construction, and the strategy of using structure as decoration; and fourth, 'reductionism' is the economical approach for realizing Nomadism, which is composed of one-size-fits-all as well as unisex size system and 'zero waste' strategy to maximize use of a piece of cloth.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.860-876
• /
• 2013

The pattern cases for Korean traditional socks are named "beoseonbongip" which means a pouch to keep patterns for making "beoseon". "Beoseon" is Korean traditional socks. This study is to identify characteristics of the pattern cases and to develop cultural products based on the unique characteristics of the pattern cases. One hundred fifty one photos of "beosonbongip" were collected and quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. Seventy percent of them were made between Joseon Dynasty and 1960s. As a result, most of the collected pattern cases are rectangular and square shapes, red color, and silk fabrics, and sizes of them are from 9cm to 15cm. A few pattern cases with different sizes and colors were also observed. Most pattern cases were made by fixing two among four triangle pieces which made by folding four tips of a rectangular or square cloth and then puting a not or a loop on the remaining triangle pieces in order to open and close the pattern cases. In a small number of the pattern cases, three of the four pieces were fixed and a button, a bead, a broach, or two nots or two loops were put on the other piece for opening and closing. Products such as apparels, bags, pouches, frames, and key holders were made using "beoseonbongip" form and construction method. This shows that "beoseonbongip" is a useful motive for creative product development.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.1 no.2
• /
• pp.1-19
• /
• 1997

This thesis is a reflection of Korean aestheticism and how it has evolved and influenced Korean contemporary fashion throughout the last century. Up to the current, there have been five notable trends of fashion that have been influenced from and have reflected the qualities emblematic of various periods in Korean history. They can be characterized as the era of Missionary fashion, Uniform fashion, Salon fashion, Brand Name Fashion, and finally, fashion from the current era of diversification. The specific characteristics of each fashion era have been analized and illustrated in a comprehensive table. Design characteristics of Korean contemporary fashion are as follows : 1. A point of emphasis is given to facial feature, unconstructive design and ample silhouette and A silhouette, two-piece and pants. Korean style wrap skirt, a smooth curve and layered style. 2. Effect of flatness from material; as methods of quilting, reinforced dual stitching(Kaeki), patchwork, embroidery and goldfoil thread extra, it is turned up that texture of cloth stuff and effects of flatness. 3. Simple color combinations give effects in two different directions For instance, white and a variety of vivid colors, a dull color and bright colors, black, blue. 4. Over-design, diffusion of fashion. Based on the design characteristics described above, the essence of Korea's beauty consciousness can be captured and summarized through the following points: 1. Emotionalism and non-characterism: traditional and simple natural beauty and modernized natural beauty. 2. From authoritism to non-authoritism: traditional and formal personal beauty and casual characteristic beauty. 3. Polaris (antithesis) phenomenon: chastic beauty and ostentatious beauty, simplicity and lavishness, conformity of fashion and originality. Although the beauty consciousness of Korean contemporary fashion is changing from traditional passive metaphor to aesthetic expressionism for the new generation, after all the basic foundation or root of the spiritual beauty of idealism is usually recognized by focusing on the face.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.135-152
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to explore the role of deconstruction and creative destruction in Maison Margiela’s fashion design code, which has opened the door to a new wave of innovative design since 1988. Using a combination of theoretical analysis, precedent research, and a review of existing literature, five years of Maison Margiela's works (2010-2014) were evaluated. The analysis shows that Maison Margiela’s Design Code consists of the following key elements: Addition, Extension, Asymmetry, Elimination, Deconstruction, Complanation, and Inversion. Addition refers to act of attaching additional pieces of fabric or clothing on the existing piece. Extension refers to the act of extending the design elements, such as their position or features. Asymmetry means the irregular positioning of left-to right and front-to-back length and features. Deconstruction could be seen in intentionally frayed sleeves, open seams, and tears in the cloth. The element of Elimination was evident in the removal of key pieces of clothing such as a coat, pants, blouse, and a jacket. Complanation refers to the reversion to a two dimensional contemplation of the human form rather than the more obvious 3-dimensional form. Finally, Inversion was used by displaying an inner layer of clothing on the outside or exposing seams or zippers in a way that people are not accustomed to seeing. It also meant that the order of wearing clothes was sometimes inverted, so external layers would be worn within clothing that are traditionally underneath. Maison Margiela’s creations represented a break

• The Journal of Korean Institute of Electromagnetic Engineering and Science
• /
• v.20 no.10
• /
• pp.1071-1076
• /
• 2009

A wearable embroidery 'ㅂ' character shape UHF RFID tag antenna has been designed using conductive electro-thread. After testing characteristics of various electro-threads, the embroidery tag, with a T-matching structure, has been designed on a cloth with 200D(denier) electro-thread which performs electrically better. The embroidery tag on a piece of fabric or clothes made with the flexible electro-thread is a wearable tag and possible to be recognized by an RFID system. The conductivity of different deniers of electro-threads has been measured. The measured conductivity has been used for simulation and fabrication to have accurate simulation results. To verify the characteristics of the tag antenna, the return loss and reading range of the fabricated embroidery electro-thread UHF RFID tag antenna have been tested. The reading range is approximately 1.52 m.