• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.303-316
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• 2006

The present study deals with developing a new modem design of quilt which is characteristic of Korean traditional patterns. The goal of this study is to make some samples of the pattern as a basic motive of quilt work by using some Korean traditional patterns that could be found in roof tiles, windows, Neung-Hwa (a kind of wood cut for printing book covers), and others. This study examines the concept of quilts, their historical background, and their characteristics. This study also examines traditional patterns that are applicable to the patchy work of quilt, discussing the characteristic of both the Korean patterns and Nubi (Korean traditional quilt). In the process of pattern development, the original patterns were simplified and transformed to apply them to the modem quilt pattern. Fabrics (100% cotton) of similar colors were used to emphasize quilting lines. This study has found followings; 1) The geometric pattern usually consists of dots, lines, and faces. These patterns are suitable for pieced quilts. 2) The curvilinear pattern found in roof tiles or Yi-Dynasty coins, can be easily re-expressed by the applique technique. Combinations of fabrics and motive compositions can express quilts in realistic and creative ways. 3) Addition of Korean traditional quilt techniques, such as parallel lines or swastika stitches, to the traditional object-derived quilt patterns led to the creation of images close to the already existing Korean quilt, Nubi.

• 미술자료
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• 제100권
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• pp.50-80
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• 2021

본고는 원각사탑에 대한 지난 백 년간의 근대 학설사를 층수에 초점을 맞추어 비판적으로 성찰하였다. 먼저 제II장에서는 근대 개항기에 조선을 여행한 서양인들이 종래 한성의 '비미(非美)'내지는 흉물로 간주되던 원각사탑을 한성의 '기관(奇觀)'내지 '위관(偉觀)'으로 재발견하는 역동적인 과정을 추적하였다. 이들은 불탑에 관한 예비지식이 거의 없는 서양 출신이었기 때문에, 역설적으로 원각사탑에 대하여 객관적인 견문기를 남길 수 있었는바, 그들이 접촉한 조선 지식인들을 통하여 대체로 13층설을 받아들였다. 이어서 제III장에서는 대한제국 선포 이후 일인 관변학자들이 원각사탑을 본격적으로 학술 조사하고, 일제식민기 동안 조선총독부가 원각사탑을 문화재로서 관리하는 과정 및 그 문제점을 언급하였다. 특히 지난 100여 년 동안 원각사탑 층수 문제에 관하여 가장 큰 영향력을 행사한 세키노 타다시(關野 貞)의 학설이 10층설에서 13층설로, 다시 다층설로 변하는 문제를 집중 조명하였다. 마지막으로 제IV장에서는 해방 이후부터 1962년까지 원각사탑에 대한 인식이 다층설에서 10층설로 바뀐 경과를 정리하되, 선행하는 일제식민기 조선 지식인들의 인식이 13층설 일변도였음을 특기해두었다. 다만 1962년 이후 지금까지 원각사탑에 관련하여 중요한 연구성과가 적지않이 발표되었지만, 층수에 관한 한 대부분 1962년에 확정된 10층설을 전제로 하였기 때문에, 본고에서는 따로 정리하지 않았다. 학설사 검토의 결과, 원각사탑이 13층탑으로서 건립되었다는 근거가 명백함에도 불구하고, 일제시기는 물론 해방 이후 지금까지 백 년이 넘도록 13층설은 단 한 번도 공인받지 못하였으며, 학계에서 층수 문제가 본격적으로 다루어지지도 않았음을 확인할 수 있었다. 원각사탑과 경천사탑이 10층탑이라는 현재의 통설은, 백 년 전에 세키노 타다시(關野 貞)가 최초로 주창하였다. 세키노는 원각사에 남아있는 「원각사비」가 글자를 거의 판독할 수 없을 정도로 마멸이 심하였기 때문에 원각사탑의 현상만 건축학의 관점에서 고찰하고 10층탑이라고 주장하였다. 공교롭게도 그 직후에 발견된 『속동문선』에 실린 「원각사비」에서 '탑 13층을 세웠다.'라는 구절이 확인되었다. 또한 15세기 후반 왕명으로 『동국여지승람』을 편찬한 편찬자들도 원각사탑의 모범인 경천사탑 또한 '13층탑'임을 분명히 인식하고 있었다. 특히 원각사탑 건립 직후 왕명으로 건립된 「원각사비」는 세키노의 10층설이 전제에 오류가 있음을 명백히 보여준다. 세키노는, '3층의 기단 위에 탑신 10층이 올려져 있어서, 세상 사람들이 13층탑이라고 불렀다.'라고 하였는데, 「원각사비」는 세조가 처음부터 13층탑으로서 원각사탑을 건립하였음을 생생하게 증언한다. 다만 이례적이게도 13층탑을 3층의 기단 위에 탑신 10층을 올린 형태로 조성하였을 따름이다. 그렇다면 세조는 왜 13층탑을 세웠으며, 왜 그것을 3층의 기단 위에 탑신 10층이라는 이례적인 형태로 구현하였는가? 세조가 원각사13층탑을 건립한 의도를 온전히 이해하려면, 먼저 원각사탑의 정체를 파악해야 하는바, 그 첫 단추는 원래의 명칭을 회복하는 데 있다. 필자는 전제의 오류 위에 구축된 세키노의 10층설-나아가 절충적인 다층설-은 이제 폐기하고, 「원각사비」에서 말하는 13층설을 복원할 것을 촉구한다.