• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.153-167
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• 2015

This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.359-368
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• 2002

섬유예술은 현대 미술운동의 하나로 부각되었고, 그 중에서도 타피스트리는 인간의 역사와 함께 시작되어 지금가지 전시회와 다양한 형태를 통해 선보이고 있고 점점 깊이 연구되고 있다. 그러나 이 작업과정은 광대한 크기로 인해 시간적 육체적 노력이 엄청나게 요구된다. 현 상황은 샘플작업을 한 뒤 본 작업에 들어가는데 마무리 작업을 할 때까지 그 느낌을 잘 알 수 없기 때문에 완성단계에서도 마음에 들지 않으면 다시 작업을 하는 경우가 많이 있다. 이런 문제점을 보완하기 위해서 미리 컴퓨터를 통하여 확인 후 수정을 거쳐 결과물을 볼 수 있도록 하여 창작의 시간을 늘이고 불필요한 시간을 없애고자 시뮬레이션이 연구되었 다. 이 시뮬레이션의 주된 내용은 스캔, 드로잉, 라인 클린 업, 필업, 렌더링, 내역 조회의 과정을 거쳐 프린트 할 수 있도록 구성되었다. 내용은 스캔과 드로잉에서 아이디어 창출을 하고 라인 클린 업에서 벡터 이미지로 만든 다음 실의 느낌을 주고 수정을 한다. 이 이미지를 렌더링하고 실의 길이와 무게 가격 조회를 한 후 프린트하는 전과정을 시뮬레이션 하는 패키지 소프트웨어를 프로토타입으로 제작한 것이다. 이런 과정을 통해 타피스트리를 하는 여러 작가들과 학생들에게 보다 쉽게 접하고 미연에 불필요한 노력과 시간들을 줄일 수 있도록 연구 개발되었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.17-27
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• 1985

In order to investigate the warmth retaining properties of fabrics some characteristics such as thickness. porosity, packing density, thermal conductivity, moisture regain and air permeability were measured and experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the warmth retaining properties with those characteristics. From the analysis, the following results were obtained. 1. When the warmth retaining properties of fabrics (Y) are dependent variable and thickness ($x_1$), porosity ($x_2$), packing density ($x_3$), thermal conductivity ($x_4$), moisture regain ($x_5$) and air permeability ($x_6$) are independent variables, the regression equation of warmth retaining properties can be represented as follows. 1) Y= 1.6005+46.817$x_1$, (R=0.9487) 2)Y=-1.4187+26.5072$x_1$+0.2055$x_2$(R=0.9704) 3) Y= -3.6908+17.4482$x_1$+0.1782$x_2$+28.3243$x_3$ (R=0.9756) 4) Y=0.9202+16.9553$x_1$+0. 1167$x_2$+30.3577$x_3$+1.8884$x_4$ (R=0.9792) 5) Y=0.9353+17.2266$x_1$+0.1177$x_2$+28.9821$x_3$-1.8302$x_4$+0.0151$x_5$ (R=0.9792) 6) Y=0.7583+17.2343$x_1$+0.1196$x_2$+28.8830$x_3$-1.8336$x_4$+0.0187$x_5$0.0004$x_5$ (R=0.9792) 2. The warmth retaining properties of fabrics are merely affected by adding thermal conductivity, moisture regain and multiple regression equation which contains thickness, porosity and packing density as variables. Therefore the multiple regression which contains thickness, porosity and packing density as variables Y=-3.6908+17.4482$x_1$+0.1782$x_2$+28.3243$x_3$ is highly practical.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.120-127
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• 2001

In order to make a microfiber fabric with PET/Co-PET Sea-Island Type microfiber, the optimum condition of extraction and elimination of Co-PET from the mocrofiber was examined. At the same time, the physical property change of the fabric with respect to the change of the relative amount of the Co-PET in the microfiber was also examined to provide a directly applicable data set to the industry. The sample fabric used was warp 75/36(DTY) and weft 0.05d(PET/Co-PET, Sea Island Type Microfiber) twill fabric of 36 separated yarns＋40/24(high shrinking yarn) with 130/48 ITY. The data set was made at various NaOH concentrations and steam temperatures with time as a main variable. The physical properties examined were the tensile properties. The results obtained were the tensile. The results obtained were 1. For a proper extraction of Co-PET (13.5%)from the microfiber with wet curing, it takes more than 5 min. in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions but it takes only 3 min. in 18% of NaOH solution at 12$0^{\circ}C$. 2. For a proper extraction of Co-PET (13.5%) from the microfiber with wet curing, ti takes 3~5min. in 12 and 14% of NaOH solution and it takes less than 3 min. in 18% of NaOH solution at $130^\circ{C}$. 3. The increasing ratio of WT increased with increasing NaOH concentrations and the equilibrium point reached was 3 min. at $120^\circ{C}$. 4. The WT increasing ratio was greater in 14 and 18% NaOH solutions than in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions at $130^\circ{C}$5. The RT ratio changes at $120^\circ{C}$ in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions were indifferent from that at $130^\circ{C}$ in 12% of NaOH solution. However, the RT was apparently decreased with increasing NaOH concentration.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.34-34
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• 2001

In order to make a microfiber fabric with PET/Co-PET Sea-Island Type microfiber, the optimum condition of extraction and elimination of Co-PET from the microfiber was examined. At the same time, the physical property change of the fabric with respect to the change of the relative amount of the Co-PET in the microfiber was also examined to provide a directly applicable data set to the industry. The sample fabric used was warp 75/36(DTY) and weft 0.05d(PET/Co-PET, Sea Island Type Microfiber) twill fabric of 36 separated yarns＋40/24(high shrinking yarn) with 130/48 ITY. The data set was made at various NaOH concentrations and steam temperatures with time as a main variable. The physical properties examined were the tensile properties. The results obtained were the tensile properties. The results obtained were 1. For a proper extraction of Co-PET (13.5%)from the microfiber with wet curing, it takes more than 5 min. in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions but it takes only 3 min. in 18% of NaOH solution at 120℃. 2. For a proper extraction of Co-PET (13.5%) from the microfiber with wet curing, it takes 3∼5 min. in 12 and 14% of NaOH solution and it takes less than 3 min. in 18% of NaOH solution at 130℃. 3. The increasing ratio of WT increased with increasing NaOH concentrations and the equilibrium point reached was 3 min. at 120℃. 4. The WT increasing ratio was greater in 14 and 18% NaOH solutions than in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions at 130℃. 5. The RT ratio changes at 120℃ in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions were indifferent from that at 130℃ in 12% of NaOH solution. However, the RT was apparently decreased with increasing NaOH concentration.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.71-83
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• 2005

In this study, we reviewed the color changes accompanying the laundering, wash fastness, and abrasion fastness of chitosan-treated cochineal-dyed fabrics. The treatment methods were classified into two based on the chitosan treatment: (Method 1): fabric specimens were pre-treated with chitosan prior to the dyeing procedure in salt form. (Method 2): the state of chitosan acid salt formation, coated on the yarn surface, was destroyed and neutralized prior to the dyeing process. The changes in the chitosan treatment methods bear more important meaning in view of the durability. In Method 1, it is highly likely for the chitosan to be detached from the surface by water during laundering since the chitosan is coated as acid salt state. In Method 2, the resistance d the chitosan to water was supposed to revive since the chitosan would return to its original state. Differences in the resistance of the chitosan treatrrent, however, according to the Method 1 and Method 2, fell short of our expectations. In Method 2, the wash fastness did not improve as we expected since the bond between the fibers comprising fabric specimens and the chitosan is not high even if the chitosan itself has high resistance to water.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.359-374
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• 2017

The objective of this study was to compare business management indicators among textiles and fashion companies. Business management indicators of 356 textiles and fashion companies for the year 2015 were analyzed, using income statements showing their management results. The results were as follows. First, there were statistically significant differences between the operating income ratios of textiles and fashion companies for the term, but there were none when it came to net income ratio. Second, the differences between cost of goods sold, cost of finished goods sold, and cost of merchandise sold to sales ratios among textiles and fashion companies were all statistically significant. The cost of goods sold, cost of finished goods sold, and cost of merchandise sold to sales ratios were higher for fiber and thread companies, fabric companies, and dyeing and finishing companies than for clothing and fashion accessories companies. Third, there were statistically significant differences between the ratio of salaries and the ratio of advertising expenses among textiles and fashion companies. The salaries ratios and advertising expenses ratios for clothing companies were higher than those of fiber and yarn companies, fabric companies, and dyeing and finishing companies. This study is meaningful as it has identified the business characteristics of textiles and fashion companies using the management indicators of those companies, which have not been sufficiently explored by previous studies. It has also helped to improve understanding of the industrial structure of the upstream and midstream sectors of the textiles and fashion industries.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.390-408
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• 2018

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis' collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

• Advanced Composite Materials
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.247-258
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• 2008

This paper is concerned with the long-term performance of geo-textile (GT) composites in terms of creep deformation and frictional properties. Composites of PVA GT and HDPE GM were made to investigate the advanced properties of long-term performance related to waste landfill applications. The same experiments were also performed for typical polypropylene and polyester GT and compared to PVA GT/HDPE GM composites. We also develop high performance GT composites with GM by using PVA GT, which is capable of improving the frictional properties and thus enhances long-term performance of GT composites. Experimental study reveals that the friction coefficient of GT composites is relatively large compared with those of polyester and polypropylene non-woven GT as long as the friction media has similar size to the particles of domestic standard earth. In addition, the geo-composites bonded with geo-grid by a chemical process were investigated experimentally in terms of strain evaluation and creep response values. Geo-grid plays an important role as a reinforcing material. Three kinds of geo-grid were prepared as strong yarn polyester and they were woven type, non-woven type, and wrap knitted type. The sample geo-grids were then coated with PVC. The rib tensile strength tests were conducted to evaluate geo-grid products in terms of tensile strength with regard to single rib. The test was performed according to GRI-GGI. It was concluded again from the experiments that the tensile and creep strains of the geo-grid showed such stable values that the geo-grid prepared in this study could protect geo-textile partially in practical structures.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.