• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.1933-1946
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• 2010

This paper is a comparative analysis of the $19^{th}$ century practice of indigo dyes and dyeing in Korea and England. From over hundreds species of indigo plants in the world, it was dyer's knotweed and woad that were cultivated in Korea; however, the only indigo plant grown in England was woad. Indigo dye was produced in the form of damp indigo sediment (jeon) in Korea; however, imported indigo (as a main dye) and couched woad (as an additional dye) were indigo dyes used in England. There existed three kinds of indigo vats, the ice vat, ash-water vat, and indigo sediment (jeon) vat, in Korea. The fresh leaves of indigo were used for both the ice vat and ash-water vat. The ice vat was very convenient for preparation, but had a weakness in the inability to produce a very deep shade of blue. The ash-water vat and indigo sediment (jeon) vat were in use for producing a very deep shade of blue. The indigo sediment Goon) vat was employed presumably only by professional dyers. The indigo vat practiced in England was categorized into two types; one was woad-indigo vat, and the other was an indigo powder vat prepared by using imported indigo rock. There was a tendency to adopt different kinds of indigo vats according to the material to be dyed. The woad-indigo vat was employed for the dyeing of wool. A few of chemical vats with imported indigo were adopted, especially for the dyeing of cotton. Indigo dyers in 19th century Korea were differentiated from the rest of the dyers. They managed the growing of indigo plants as well as the production of indigo sediment (jeon). Woad dyers in 19th century England handled woolen cloth as well as worsted and woolen yarn in general. However, they sometimes dyed silk skein as well. They produced several colors such as black, blue, slates, grays, by using both woad and imported indigo.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.37-44
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to elucidate the effect of weight loss of polyethylene terephthalate(PET) fabrics on the mechanical properties such as bending and shear. In order to compare the effect of treatment machine on the mechanical properies of treated PET fabrics, PET fabrics were hydrolyzed with NaOH aqueous solution using Tank machine and Liquor flow machine, respectively. The results were as follows ： 1. The bending rigidity and shear stiffness of hydrolyzed PET fabric decreased markedly up to about 10％ weight loss regardless of treatment machines. At the above 10％ weight loss, the variation of these properties is nearly unchanged. In addition, the bending hysteresis and shear hysteresis also showed similar trend. 2. Weft density change of PET fabrics treated with Liquor flow machine decreased by 1pick/inch. It is assumed that this is attributed to the tension during the treatment of Liquor flow machine. On the other hand, the weft density change of PET fabrics treated with Tank machine is scarcely influeneced by the weight loss. While warp density of PET fabrics treated with Liquor flow machine had no change with weight loss, warp density of PET fabrics treated with Tank machine decreased by 6pick/inch due to the tension. 3. The bending rigidity and shear stiffness of PET fabrics hydrolyzed with liquor flow machine slightly higher than with Tank m/c at the above 10％ weight loss. It is assumed that this is caused by the increasement of the crossing pressure of warp and weft yarn and contact points of filaments in the yarns. Also, the bending and shear hysteresis of PET fabrics treated with Tank machine were higher than that of liquor flow machine.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.279-284
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• 2010

This paper surveys basic research for data base system of the fabric structural design. For this purpose, the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics are analysed and discussed with cover factors suggested by Prof. Walz and Picanol company. And the relationship between weave density coefficients and cover factors of the worsted and cotton woven fabrics was analysed and discussed with weave pattern and yarn count. Finally, the process shrinkages of dyeing and finishing processes according to the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics were analysed and discussed as a preliminary study for the data base system of the fabric structural design. As a result, the density coefficients, K values of the worsted and cotton fabrics were ranged from 600 to 1000, and the weave density coefficients of those fabrics are ranged from 0.4 to 0.8 and from 0.2 to 1.0, respectively. The finishing shrinkages for the worsted fabrics are ranged from 2% to 10%, and for cotton fabrics, it was from 2% to 20%. The weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics could be distributed according to the looms, weave pattern and weaving and finishing shrinkages as a concept of the data base for the fabric structural design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.231-239
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• 2013

This research developed a smart girdle for adult women in their 20's that has an inserted carbon weaving heater to help with relief from coldness and abdominal disease through the thermal insulation effect. A pocket of powernet fabric was attached to the inside of the girdle for the easy insertion and separation of the heating device, while the heating device was fixed to a mesh material by cotton yarn and was wrapped with elastic lining material to prevent the mechanical devices from being exposed. A set of 3 hooks was attached to the center of the back of the heating device in consideration of convenience and mobility. Whereas the switch was inserted into around the right waistband, and the battery into the inner pocket around the waist, to integrate the heating device with the girdle. The satisfaction and usability of the fabricated smart girdle was verified by having research participants wear it to evaluate the appearance change caused by the device, the inconvenience of wearing/unwearing, mobility, and the satisfactory functionality of the device. As a result, the grand mean was evaluated to be high, with appearance (4.19), mobility (4.17), and functionality (4.51) being higher than 4.00; which indicates that the heat generation function of the smart girdle is effective. It may be said that such collection and analysis of data that reflect users' opinions have value and significance in that they can be grafted onto future research on new technology as well as they contribute to taking a step forward in the rapidly increasing research of smart clothing, with the new-type clothing equipped with new function.

• Composites Research
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.33-40
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• 2003

In order to overcome one of the most pronounced shortcomings of conventional laminated composites, such as the low damage tolerance due to delamination, the thermoplastic materials and 3D (three-dimensional) preforms have been utilized in the manufacture of composite materials. From the newly developed process termed as the co-braiding, hybrid yarns of the thermoplastic fibers (PEEK) and reinforcing fibers (carbon) have been fabricated. In order to further enhance the delamination suppression, through thickness fibers have been introduced by way of 3D weaving technique in the fabrication of textile preforms. The preforms have been thermoformed to make composite materials. Complete impregnation of the PEEK into the carbon fiber bundles has been confirmed. For the comparison of mechanical performance of 3D woven composites, quasi-isotropic laminates using APC-2/AS4 tapes have been fabricated. Tensile and compressive properties of both the composites have been determined. Furthermore. the open hole, impact and CAI(Compression After Impact) tests were also carried out to assess the applicability of 3D woven textile reinforced thermoplastic composites in aerospace structures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.712-727
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• 2014

Dahoejangs in the Joseon Dynasty were craftsmen who belonged in the Gyeonggongjang in Hansung government office. Out of 2,841 craftsmen who specialized in 129 types of work, 1 of them were Dahoejangs. Dahoejangs were craftsmen who made cords. However it was not passed down and currently Maedeupjangs are making cords and making Maedeup with the cords they have made. In the Uigwes the composition of Dahoejangs number and types of tools used in creating good for ceremonies are indicated. This study has found records of Dahoejangs from 50 Uigwes. The tools used were indicated as Haesagee, Hapsagee, Hapseongee, Yeonsagee, Sangsagee, Dahoegee, Yungjapan and some others. Haesagee is a tool that winds thread from a skein to a spool. Hapsagee is a tool that combines more than two yarns together. Hapseon is for combining thicker threads. Yeosagee is not a process of scouring for refining, but is assumed to be a tool to twisting yarn. There are no information left about the shape or working methods of Sangsagee but it is considered to be a tool for doubling several threads together. Based on the existing artifacts and painting of Dahoe, it is assumed that threads were woven on usually a round plate or bowl. Youngjapan is considered to be a tool for making tassels. This shows that Dahoejangs made tassels and it was completely separate from making Maedeups. There, it is evident that Dahoejangs made cords as well as tassels but the work of Maedeupjang were constricted to only making Maedeup with the cords given to them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.5-20
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• 2001

The purpose of this study suggest the fashion of communication for 21th century fashion. Especially, Memphis fashion have the possibility of communicating through objects. The results of this study are as follows : First, Memphis idea is to make design into a sophisticated, conscious instrument of communication. As the Memphis fashion points out : design is an extraordinary tool for communicating because its intrinsic characteristic is the fact that it is used and distributed anyway, even without communicating anything. The Memphis fashion is trying to connect design and industry to the broader culture within which fashion moves. Second, Using different materials provides not only new structural Possibilities. but - above all - new semantic and metaphoric possibilities, order modes of communication, another language, and even a change of direction, broadening of perspective, appropriation and digestion of new values and the concomitant rejection of traditional structures that renewal always Involves. The memphis fashion works on the fabric of contemporaneity (lurex yarn, latex, chrome metal and steel) and contemporaneity means computers, electronics, a new awareness of the body. mass exercise and tourism. Third, color in Memphis has never been an ideological vehicle. As with decoration it is born tilth the design, forming an integral part of the structure. It alters the objects molecules. It works as a mass, as an intrinsic feature of a certain form and volume. The Memphis fashion was realized the introduction of ultramodern science into such experimental and creative implementation as optical motive, brilliancy of colour of electronic medium in audition to metallic fabric and high technical synthetic fiber. A color tilth pop culture connotations that weaver between technological allusions and Mcdonald's.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.61-73
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to create unique formative beauty with free expressive method and to suggest accessory design with individuality through this, by using hand-knitting technique in design of necklace and bangle, which belong to personal ornament among fashion accessories. It analyzed on theoretical background of knit technique and accessory through documentary research, examined the accessory design tendency and the research tendency through collection materials, and then suggested 9 works in accessory ornament design of using hand-knitting technique, based on this. The results are as follows. First, even in overseas collection, accessories in diverse materials and shapes were being show cased. Volume in necklace or bangle was indicated to be big. There were many cases of covering several items together. Second, the hand-knitting technique in originative accessory design could be confirmed to be possibly used broadly in the range of pattern and shape available for making by using yarn in diverse thicknesses with proper technique, and by transforming basic tissue according to knitting technique. Third, through the results of making ornaments in 7 necklaces and 2 bangles, the hand-knitting technique was confirmed to possibly expanding the application range of knitting technique in the accessory field, and has significance in having suggested individual accessory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.11-17
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• 2005

This study was performed to analysis the operation process when fabric pattern design was done by the use of CAD system compared with the manual work in order to determine the operation efficiency with the application of fabric design CAD system. The results of the study were as follows: 1. since 160,000 colors were supported by CAD system, color proposed by consumer was able to match exactly according to the its design. However, exact color matching was not possible by manual work. 2. Woven state of back of pattern design could be identified simultaneously with face of it for CAD system, while face and back of the fabrics should be designed separatedly in case of manual work. 3. Since the combination of warp and filling yarn was compatible with the fabric density in one repeat unit in CAD system, exact size of pattern design to be woven was able to expressed. 4. Only simple graphical expression by manual work was seen, while with the CAD system, texture and shade effect as well as graphical expression could be expressed and so fault could be reduced in advance with the simulation of actual feeling of fabrics in the screen. In conclusion, when CAD system will be introduced to the textile industry, operation time of designing pattern can be reduced. Since the operation is easy and simple, a beginner can operate CAD system easily. Thus, production and wage costs can be saved and this can be related directly with the improvement of productivity which is the main purpose of introducing CAD system.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.