• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.250-263
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• 2001

The up and down speed of heddle frames that produce woven cloth by insertion of weft yarns between warp yarns has been increased recently much for productivity improvement, which induces higher inertial stresses and vibrations in the heddle frame. the heddle frame is required to reduce its mass because the heddle frame contributes the major portion of the stresses in the heddle frames during accelerating and decelerating. Conventional aluminum heddle frames have fatigue life of around 5 months at 550rpm due to their low fatigue flexural strength as well as low bending stiffness. In this work, since carbon/epoxy composite materials have high specific fatigue strength(S/p), high specific modulus(E/p), high damping capacity and sandwich construction results in lower deflections and higher buckling resistance, the sandwich structure composed of carbon/epoxy composite skins and polyurethane foam were employed for the high-speed heddle frame. The design map for the sandwich beams was accomplished to determine the optimum thickness and the stacking sequences for the heddle frames. Also the effects of the number of ribs on the stress of the heddle frame were investigated by FEM analyses. Finally, the high-speed heddle frames were manufactured with sandwich structures and the static and dynamic properties of the aluminum and the composite heddle frames were tested and compared with each other.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.9
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

This research developed maternity wear designed with a focus on the essential functions necessary for working women and adaptable to their body changes during pregnancy. Through Martin's anthropometry for 201 pregnant women, the size specifications for maternity wear was determined and a dress form was proposed, in order to provide the manufacturer with reference data and a prototype to verify their products' fit and suitability. From a monthly analysis on the body measurements of pregnant women, significant monthly differences and after pregnancy were found in weight, chest girth, bust girth, under bust girth, waist girth, and hip girth. Dress form was designed based on the average body measurements of women in their 6th to 10th month of pregnancy. The standard dimensions in the 8th month were 90cm (chest), 94cm (bust), 86cm (under bust), 97cm(waist: most protruding part on the side), and 99cm (hip). Compared with Japan's MAT-9 (for nine months), chest girth was the same, while the Korean waist girth and hip girth were larger by 2cm and 3cm, respectively. The woven fabric blouse was evaluated as having the best appearance, while the knitted fabric one was judged as being more comfortable it terms of functionality. For the pants, the design details of the lowered waist and curved waist belt were more functional. The tailored jacket was the best design for working women in terms of both looks and functionality. To summarize, maternity wear for working women, unlike general maternity clothes, should be designed with consideration for the wearer's somatotype and activity. Elastic materials were appropriate for functionality and dealing with physical changes. With the increasing of working pregnant women, such trials are expected to continue in this research area in order to develop functional maternity wear with multi-purposes such as breast-feeding, wearability after delivery and shielding from microwave.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.267-272
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• 2003

Tactel(Nylon66) union fabrics were woven with the specification of 70d/34f nylon as warp for sport wear jacket. Weft yarn has three types; 100% cotton yarn, nylon core-spun yarn and nylon-polyurethane covering yarn as weft. Fabric structers were plain, twill and satin weave structure with the air jet loom. The mechanical properties of 8 fabrics were measured with KES-F and primary Hand Values and Total Hand Values were calculated. The results of the study were as follows: 1) There was little difference among LTs of N/CM fabric groups. RT of the fabrics with CM100's was bigger than that of fabrics with CM80's, resulting that the fabrics with CM100's have better formability. In terms of weaving structure, twill fabrics have shape deformation. 2) In comparison of RTs with weft yarn type, RT of N-PU covering yarn was the highest, followed by Nylon core-spun yarn and cotton yarn. Thus, the fabric with N-PU covering yarn has better stability of shape deformation. 3) Stretch yarn could express an excellent silhouette formation and twill and satin structures were better structure to make curvature on human form. 4) 2HG/G value of nylon core-spun fabrics was larger than that of N/C fabrics, but the silhouette formation of N/C fabrics was excellent. 5) The RC of N/PU was the highest, followed by N/P, and N/CM. 6) Koski of N/PU fabrics was the highest, Numeri of N/PU and N/Co-I were relatively higher than the others. THVs of N/CM-IV and N/CO-II were lower than the others, resulting that, twill structure was better than plain structure for a sport wear uses.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.674-696
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• 2011

Recent change in consumption patterns, casual clothing market share is growing. Awareness about the quality of the product for a variety of consumer needs are becoming. Accordingly, stretch material items that satisfy modern production and consumption is increasing. Among them, circular knit and woven fabrics with different characteristics have. However, this requires a consideration of the pattern graphics, this study is not getting enough. The purpose of this study is to develop a T-shirt using circular knit pattern for women in early twenties. Through the research of literature and a survey on T-shirt patterns of ready-to-wear manufactures and training for the pattern 4 T-shirt patterns were selected. Eight women in early twenties who fit the bodily standard were selected for the test. Subjects who were tested by wearing a T-shirt made of 30's cotton circular knit. Drafting method of T-shirt pattern which were closed to the optimum value three, derived from the five point rating scale outfit test were selected and the differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified. Passed by the test of 2 times and the final research T-shirt pattern was developed through adjusting from the optimum value three. The form which is whole is a silhouette closely in the body and drafting method the elasticity and drapery considered the quality of the circular knit where the characteristic is excellent.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.288-295
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• 2012

Although some degree of mechanical properties of suede fabrics mainly related to non-woven suede fabric has some researched, the thin suede fabric has rarely been researched. In this study, polyester(DTY 50/72) was used for warp, and after producing latent yarn and sea-island yarn for weft, two yarns were compounded to produce sea-island DTY yarn. By using the two produced yarns for warp and weft, we produced thin suede fabric with stretch function. For weft 2ply, weft density 85, 90, 100(picks/in) were applied to weave fabric, and for weft 1ply, weft density 125, 135, 140(picks/in) were applied to produce weft face 5-end satin weave. The mechanical properties of the produced fabric were researched. The result are as followed. The weight loss ratio of the suede fabric produced for this experiment reached 15% on the conditions of temperature $90^{\circ}C$ and 20 minutes, so that island parts were completely separated. The strength of weft 1ply applied suede fabric was about 7.5kg and that of 2ply suede fabric and about 3.5kg. But the strain of two samples ranged from about 40 to 43%. Although Hari was high when weft was denser. The values of Koshi and Kisimi were low. And shear stiffness was high when sea-island DTY yarn was used. The WC value was higher in the case of 2ply than in that of 1ply sea-island DTY yarn for weft, so that we may conclude that Fukurami was more affected in the 2ply case.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.53-69
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• 2010

This study compared the work environment colors and the colors of working clothes by conducting a field survey of domestic machinery manufacturers who are playing a central role in Korean industries so as to develop and evaluate working clothes based on the safety of workers and environmental harmony. For the study method, after the color-related requirements were collected through interviews and field surveys, the fabrics for working clothes were woven and the colors were selected using the requirements. The designs of working clothes were developed with an emphasis on color design. The colors of the working clothes were also analyzed in their relationship to the working environment. The evaluations were separately performed for the appearance and the colors with workers of D machinery manufacturing company. The appearance and color satisfaction, safety, psychology, and harmony with environment were evaluated on a 5-point scale by workers and their safety managers. Furthermore, pictures of the workers in their existing working clothes and the newly developed working clothes were taken with a digital camera while they were working in the field. The RGB values of the pictures were extracted using Photoshop ver. 7.01, which were converted to HVC values using Munsell Conversion ver. 4.0.1. This study found that higher satisfaction levels were shown for the newly developed working clothes compared to the existing ones. The actual measurements also showed that the newly developed had higher brightness and clearer chromatic contrast than the existing ones, indicating higher explicitness and attention for safety of workers. These types of studies can contribute to the integrated working environment plan of machinery manufacturers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.85-96
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• 1998

This is a study on the revitalization of the fashion design studios (planning and production companies of clothing) in compliance with the request from the Small and Medium Business Administration. It's purpose is to strengthen the competence of the petty company and eventually frourish the Korean Fashion Business. The research method to conduct this study consists of two parts. First part is the research on the domestic industry mainly by questionaire, interviews and literature reviews. After making out the directory of the design studios (total of 700), 85 studios were selected for the questionaire. And by interviewing them, data with more depth was obtained. The second part is the research of the foreign cases. In the case of Japan, survey was done on the spot. However, in the case of Italy, literature review and interview with specialists were made. Also in order to higher the efficiency of the study an advisory committee and final explanatory meeting was carried into effect. This study has started first by looking into the significance and function of the fashion design studios. Then, a full scale examination was made centering around the questionarie of the present conditions of the companies. General conditions were first observed. Then the survey was done by grouping the industry by the industrial classifications such as woven, knit, leather mustang fur and fashion accesaries. The problems these companies face are that they are petty in scale and in lack of speciality, professional training, government support. Also, they are without an association or an organization that speaks for them and they face problems while doing business with others. Cases of Japan and Italy were surveyed as the example of the advanced nations. In the case of Japan, development of planning and management company, Fashion Soft House, was analyzed. Italy for instance, the function of the studios was looked into centering around the silk complex, Como, knit product complex, Capri. Also, precedent cases of brands and developing factor of the fashion industry was examined. Finally, on the basis of the result of the study, a plan to revitalize the fashion design studios was presented centering around the strategic planning, management, production, developing of talent, improvement of relationship between business acqaintance, and the support policy of the government.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.11-20
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to investigate the subjective wearing sensation of sleepwear, and to evaluate the comfort properties of fabrics used in the sleepwear. Design of experimental clothing was pajamas made with four types of woven fabrics: plain weave and satin weave made by cotton and polyester. The comfort properties were evaluated with respect to thermal retention, Qmax, moisture regain, water vapor transmission, and air permeability. The wear trials of experimental clothing were performed in two different environments, single-detached unit($23{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $45%{\pm}3%$ R.H.) and apartment($27{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $40{\pm}3%$ R.H), to evaluate microclimate temperature and humidity, and subjective wearing sensation. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1. There were significant differences between the two environments on the clothing microclimate. 2. In the single detached unit environment, the microclimate temperature who wore cotton sleepwear was significantly higher than that of subjects wore the polyester sleepwear, whereas the microclimate humidity who wore polyester sleepwear was higher than that of subjects wore the polyester sleepwear. 3. In the apartment environment, the microclimate temperature who wore the polyester sleepwear showed higher than that of cotton sleepwear, whereas there was no significant difference between the cotton and polyester sleepwear on the microclimate humidity. 4 There were partially significant differences in subjective wearing sensation according to the fiber md weaving type of sleepwear regardless environment. 5. There were also partially significant correlations among the heat/moisture transmission properties of fabrics, the clothing microclimate and the subjective wearing sensation of sleepwear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.992-1003
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• 2003

This study analyzes the actual state of the working uniforms worn by burning waste workers to protect their body from the hazardous environment. Directions for improvement of the clothing fabrics is also suggested. We visited and interviewed those persons who worked in the burning waste plant in Seoul and in Gyunggi Province. 245 workers were surveyed by questionnaires, and 211 workers out of 245 were statistically analyzed. Frequencies and percentages were calculated and $\chi$$^2$ test, ANOVA and Scheffe Post hoc comparison methods were utilized to test some hypothesis. The working uniforms were classified as four general types: separate type, disposable-coverall. overall, and winter clothes. At present, the working uniforms are not suitable for the conditions which they are used. There is a lack of ventilation and an inability to absorb perspiration limited elasticity, and the uniforms are prone to static shock. The degree of satisfaction varied significantly, based on the worker's educational background and main work. However, only a small percentage of workers interviewed were satisfied with the appearance and the fit of the present working uniforms. The working duration had a negative impact on the satisfaction of the worker. This results suggest that materials, colors, design and size of working clothes must be improved. The suggestions are as follows: Firstly. to use disposable non-woven fabrics finished to increase moisture regain. Secondly. to use the bad air permeability fabrics to protect the skin from absorbtion of harmful gases, flying dust, heavy metals, etc.