• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.402-410
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• 2021

Woolen tapestry curtains possessed by the Seoul Museum of Craft Art were used to hung on the wall or used for carpets in the winter season in the late Joseon dynasty. Since similar artifacts were only used for the curtain as functional aspects, woolen tapestry curtains were a rare case. In this study, scientific analysis on the accessory ornament of woolen tapestry curtains such as components of metal accessories and frame bar were conducted with the microscope, p-XRF, and SEM. Result of frame bar pigments, organic pigments such as ink stick were likely been used in woolen tapestry curtain 1. In woolen tapestry 2, lead red (Minium) was used in the frame bar. The result of metal parts, copper, and zinc were analyzed by p-XRF. This suggests that metal accessories were crafted using brass. Frame bar of woolen tapestry curtain 2 was made of soft pine (Pinus spp.) analyzed with the scanning electron microscope. Artifacts like woolen tapestry curtains are rare in Korea and scientific analysis databases were scarce, so it is important to construct components analysis data of woolen tapestry curtains. It is expected that additional scientific analysis and interpretation on the artifact's crafting technique can be merged with the analytical data gathered in this study to be utilized on the conservation and restoration of not only woolen curtains but curtain artifacts of the late Joseon dynasty in general.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.612-620
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• 2019

A woolen tapestry curtain, owned by the Seoul Museum of Craft Art, is composed of tabby by cotton-warp and wool-weft threads and its patterned part is shown as a tapestry; paint with pigment has been added to it. The chromaticity of this curtain was measured and the substances in the deep red color were confirmed as Hg by an analysis of the ingredients through X-ray fluorescence. This is presumed to be cinnabar or vermilion. Analyses were performed on a total of seven fabric samples, including the warp & weft of the fabric, its trimming, and its back fabric. As a result, the warp of the woolen tapestry curtain was determined to be a cotton fiber with a middle hole or lumen in the cross-section. Furthermore, an infrared peak likewise showed O-H and C-O binding. Wool fibers as wefts were identified with circular and oval cross-sections and IR peaks showed N-H/O-H stretching and amide(-CONH-). The animal hair samples used in the wool fiber are believed to have come from long-tailed goral or goats and the possibility of using easy-to-spin sapsal dog hair is also not to be overlooked. This was determined through a contrast analysis by the Cultural Heritage Administration to identify the animal species used in the tapestry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.112-124
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• 2011

Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.