• 보존과학회지
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.402-410
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• 2021

Woolen tapestry curtains possessed by the Seoul Museum of Craft Art were used to hung on the wall or used for carpets in the winter season in the late Joseon dynasty. Since similar artifacts were only used for the curtain as functional aspects, woolen tapestry curtains were a rare case. In this study, scientific analysis on the accessory ornament of woolen tapestry curtains such as components of metal accessories and frame bar were conducted with the microscope, p-XRF, and SEM. Result of frame bar pigments, organic pigments such as ink stick were likely been used in woolen tapestry curtain 1. In woolen tapestry 2, lead red (Minium) was used in the frame bar. The result of metal parts, copper, and zinc were analyzed by p-XRF. This suggests that metal accessories were crafted using brass. Frame bar of woolen tapestry curtain 2 was made of soft pine (Pinus spp.) analyzed with the scanning electron microscope. Artifacts like woolen tapestry curtains are rare in Korea and scientific analysis databases were scarce, so it is important to construct components analysis data of woolen tapestry curtains. It is expected that additional scientific analysis and interpretation on the artifact's crafting technique can be merged with the analytical data gathered in this study to be utilized on the conservation and restoration of not only woolen curtains but curtain artifacts of the late Joseon dynasty in general.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제35권6호
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• pp.612-620
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• 2019

서울공예박물관에 소장된 모담방장(毛毯房帳)은 경사에 면사를 두고 위사에 모사를 두어 평직(平織)으로 짠 것이다. 문양 부분은 타피스트리(Tapestry)로 제직하고, 안료를 덧칠하였다. 색도를 측정하고, X선 형광분석에 의한 성분 분석 결과 진한 붉은 색의 문양에서는 수은(Hg)이 검출되어 주사(Cinnabar)나 합성안료인 주(Vermilion)로 추정하였다. 직물의 경사와 위사, 선단 및 후면 직물 등 총 7개의 직물 시료에 대한 분석을 실시하였다. 그 결과 모담방장의 경사는 섬유단면에 가운데 중공(루멘)이 있는 면섬유로, Infrared 피크도 마찬가지로 O-H 결합과 C-O 결합이 나타난다. 위사인 모섬유는 원형과 타원형의 단면이 확인되며, Infrared 피크는 N-H/O-H Stretching, Amide(-CONH-)을 보였다. 모섬유에 사용된 동물종을 확인하기 위해 문화재청의 동물털 시료와 대조분석 결과, 산양이나 염소털을 사용한 것으로 추정되며, 방적에 용이한 삽살개 털도 사용했을 가능성도 배제할 수 없다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.112-124
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• 2011

Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.