• 청정기술
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.14-21
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• 2012

친환경 건축물에 사용되는 미네랄울, 폴리우레탄 등 전통적인 단열재로부터 최근에 주목받고 있는 VIP (Vacuum Insulation Panel), 에어로젤, 그리고 미래기술로 연구되고 있는 VIM (Vacuum Insulation Material), DIM (Dynamic Insulation Material) 등 단열재 및 단열 시스템의 특성과 장단점을 비교하였다. 매우 낮은 열전도율을 지닌 VIP 및 에어로젤은 기존 단열재에 비해 에너지 소모를 줄일 수 있으므로 주거면적을 크게 확대할 수 있는 장점이 있으며, 특히 에어로젤은 반투명 및 투명재질로 만들 수 있어 건물에 응용될 수 있는 가능성이 매우 크다. 단열재는 낮은 열전도율뿐만 아니라, 건설현장 응용성, 기계적강도, 내화성, 비용 및 환경영향 등을 고려하여야 하므로, 전통적인 단열재 및 최신 단열재를 활용하고 지속적으로 개선시키는 노력을 해야 할 것이다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권12호
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• pp.1939-1949
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• 2008

본 연구의 목적은 파리, 런던, 뉴욕, 서울에서의 2006년 F/W 스트릿 패션을 고찰하여 다문화권적 현 추세에서 지역별 이질성 및 유사성을 확인하는 것으로 마켓에 있는 현재의 패션 트렌드를 이해하는 것에 중점을 두었다. 사진촬영법에 의하여 4개 지역의 패션 스트릿에서 같은 기간 동안 $20{\sim}50$대 여성들로 추정되는 대상들의 착장을 디지털 카메라를 사용하여 촬영한 후 데이터로 사용할 수 있는 신뢰성 있는 사진들로부터 필요한 정보를 SPSS에 입력하고 그 결과를 분석하였다. 런던/파리, 뉴욕, 서울로 마켓 지역을 세분화하여 고찰한 결과 서울은 서구 지역과는 달리 외의의 색상에서도 블랙이 강세이기 보다는 화이트, 베이지 계열이 높은 퍼센트를 차지하였고, 하의도 진이 주류를 이루었으며 투명한 스타킹 착용자가 많아 외모지향을 그대로 표출하였다. 상의 외투의 재료에 있어서는 런던/파리, 뉴욕, 서울은 유사하게 울 또는 그와 비슷한 소재가 강세를 이루었으나 뉴욕의 경우에는 검정색 힙 길이의 패딩 재킷과 스키니 바지를 입는 착장이 다른 지역보다 좀더 두드러져 차이를 보였다. 그러나 바지의 경우 전체적으로 스키니가 강세이며 런던/파리, 뉴욕에서 매우 높은 착장률을 보였고 이와는 다르게 서울 지역은 스키니도 강세이지만 미니나 쇼트 같은 하의가 타지역보다 비율이 높아서 상이한 착장실태를 보여주었다. 이와 같이 아이템별로 서울 사람들은 일부는 유러피언과 유사하고 일부는 뉴욕과 유사한 착장형태를 하고 있으며 또한 서울의 소비자들이 DIY 스타일도 보여 좀 더 다양하게 겨울 시즌에 옷을 연출하고 있음을 확인할 수 있었다. 이 연구는 착장실태에 관한 조사를 주로 하였으나 향후 각 패션 도시의 문화적 특성이나 소비자 행동에 관한 서베이를 동시에 병행하고 다년간 리서치를 진행한다면 좀더 학계 및 업계에 기여도가 클 것으로 사료된다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.80-98
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• 2023

조선 말기에 혼례를 마치고 신부가 시댁으로 가면서 가마를 타고 가는데 그 때 가마 위에 벽사의 뜻이 담긴 호피를 덮는 풍습이 있었다. 상류층을 중심으로 호피나 표피를 사용했으나 서민들 사이에서는 호랑이무늬를 그린 모포를 덮었다. 그 모포는 호탄자, 호구, 호구욕 등으로 불리었다. 신부 가마덮개가 처음 사용된 시기는 정확히 알 수 없으나 대략 19세기 말부터 1930년대까지 성행하다 점차 사라졌는데 신식혼례의 등장으로 신부의 가마가 필요 없어졌기 때문으로 추정된다. 호랑이무늬 모포는 신부 가마 위에 덮는 것뿐만 아니라 상 위에 덮거나 바닥에 깔기도 하였는데 모두 혼인식에 사용되었다. 호랑이무늬 모포 9점에 대한 성분 분석 결과 겉감과 안감의 경사는 무명실, 위사에는 모사(毛絲)가 사용되었다. 겉감의 위사에 사용된 모사는 2종류인데 중국의 비미종 양모와 중국 허베이성 카펫용 염소모로 밝혀졌다. 러시아에서 '호랑이 그린 무늬의 담요'가 수입되었다는 것과 중국에서 모물을 사들인 후 우리나라에서 깔개를 만들었다는 내용, 그리고 여러 기법의 모깔개를 제작했다는 사료를 고려해보면 중국과 러시아 등지에서 완제품으로 수입하기도 했고 국내에서 생산하기도 했다는 것으로 추정된다. 실물 조사한 호랑이무늬 모포 13점의 겉감은 직물의 조직과 실꼬임 방향에 따라 6종류가 있으며 안감은 3종류, 그리고 가선은 4종류로 분류되었다. 안감과 겉감은 한 폭을 그대로 사용한 것으로 직물의 폭이 최소 135cm의 광폭으로 직조하였다. 호랑이 무늬를 표현하는 방법은 공판화 기법이다. 빨간색 겉감 위에 호랑이 몸통과 꼬리의 도안을 대고 흰색을 칠한 후 호랑이의 바탕색인 노란색과 얼룩무늬인 갈색, 검은색의 순서로 칠한다. 호랑이무늬는 조금씩 달라서 여러 공방에서 제작된 것으로 추정된다. 호탄자의 무늬는 호피처럼 엎드린 상태로 그렸는데 서 있는 자세도 생겨나고 호랑이무늬는 작아지면서 가장자리에 화려한 꽃무늬를 그려 넣었다. 이같이 호탄자는 무늬에 장식적인 요소가 가미되는 변천을 겪다가 가마덮개로서의 기능이 상실되면서 점차 사라졌을 것으로 여겨진다. 현재 남아 있는 호랑이무늬 모포 중 수입품이 포함되어 있다는 점과 당시 유행이었던 점을 고려하면 여러 생산지에서 제작되었을 것으로 추정된다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.59-66
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.787-798
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• 2004

This research was designed to compare clothing fabric images between on- and off-line by fabric types and its characteristics. 125 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the fabric image of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. Frequency, x2-test, t-test, and Pearson correlation were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The advantage of on-line shopping includes low price and purchasing convenience, etc. On-line shoppers mostly purchase clothing items, such as T-shirt and slacks. In most cases, texture of fabrics provides a main cause for the shoppers' discontentment with internet shopping. 2. The results of t-test for the difference of the evaluation score show that plain or pile weave and highly thick or thin fabrics-for example, Organdy, Corduroy, Nylon Taffeta, Plush, etc.-have a large difference between on-and off-line image. On the other hand, medium-thick twill weave-for example, Tweed, Flannel, etc.-or patterned weave-Chiffon, Dobby fabric, etc.-shows a small difference. 3. The results of correlation of the evaluation score indicate that wool twill fabrics like Tweed, Saxony, and Polafleece show a high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. In texture preference, no correlation exists between on-line and off-line. 4. With an analysis on fabric image evaluation by fabric characteristics, smooth, shiny pink Satin was found the most positively-evaluated item in all evaluation fields except in pattern preference and individuality. On the other hand, thick olive green Corduroy was evaluated most negatively in the fields of elegance, luxury, and feminine. 5. When compared with real ones, thin fabrics provide a different on-line fabric image. For example, Nylon Taffeta and Organdy were evaluated positively on-line because of luster and pastel tone color. However, lusterless uneven cotton Seersucker was evaluated negatively. 6. Real fabrics preference is more negative than on-line ones. In addition, patterned or unique fabrics display a high agreement between the two kinds of images.

• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.147-160
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• 2013

Korean fashion designs became important items in Korea in the middle of the 1980s, and it has advanced into the world market in the early part of the 1990s. To achieve success in global fashion world, it is necessary to analyze Korean fashion design thoroughly and prepare strategies to develop designs with mainstream acceptance in the global fashion world. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and Korean beauties of Korean fashion designs. Fashion photos of Korean fashion designs from 2006 S/S to 2012 F/W were analyzed. 357 designs from 608 designs of 4 representative Korean designers were examined and design characteristics, expression styles were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. H Line, slim, fitted silhouette and loose look were applied. 2. 5 major traditional colors, red, blue, yellow, white and black colors were used. Brown color, neutral color, golden color and beige color of the textile material's original color were used. Traditional textile materials like ramie fabric, satin and cotton, wool and metallic fabric were used. 3. Patterns of flower, traditional pattern and Korean letters were applied. Embroidery, patchwork and mother-of-pearl were decorated. 4. The three types of beauty were natural beauty, moderate beauty and decorative beauty. The types that were analyzed were realistic expression type, moderate expression type, image expression type and mixed expression type. To be accepted in global fashion world, Korean traditional design elements should be modified, broken down and reorganized so that Korean fashion design can be recreated.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.79-86
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• 2006

This study purposes to find the best one for dyeing with artemisia in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia and investigates the antibiotic activities of artemisia. After dyeing cotton, rayon, silk, wool and nylon fabrics with dyebath extracted from artemisia, observation on dyeability by temperature, concentration and time has been carried out. And I took an observation on color change, color fastness to washing and color fastness to light after mordanting treatment. Also observation on the antibiotic properties of non-dyed fabrics, artemisia-dyed fabrics and artemisia-dyed fabrics with post-mordant has been performed to investigate the antibiotic activities of artemisia. And the following results have been obtained. 1. The dyeability of artemisia was better for protein fabrics such as silk or woo and amide-based synthetic fabrics like nylon than for cellulose fabrics such as cotton and rayon. 2. For all tested fabrics, the dyeability was increased as the concentration of artemisia dyebath, dyeing time and dyeing temperature was increased. Especially the dye ability for protein fabrics was most affected by the temperature, and high dyeability was obtained at high temperatures. 3. For the color fastness of artemisia-dyed fabrics with mordanting treatment, the color fastness to washing was good with grade of 4-5 while the color fastness to light ranged from grade 2 to grade 3, which requires improvement for practical use. 4. The artemisia-dyed fabrics were shown to have much higher antibiosis than the non-dyed fabrics, and the artemisia-dyed fabrics with mortanting treatment showed the following result; Cu 99.9%, Al 64% and bittern 64.7%.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.56-62
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• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• 한국산업보건학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.119-127
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• 2012

Objectives: The aim of this study is to identify concentration characteristics of indoor and outdoor airborne total fiber particles and asbestos in Gyeongnam Provinces. Methods: This study investigated concentration characteristics of indoor fiber particles from 748 schools and 38 public facilities as well as outdoor particles from 11 sites through PCM (phase contrast microscope). SEM/EDX (scanning electron microscope/energy dispersive using X-ray analysis) was used to obtain physicochemical information of asbestos fiber particles. The study identified asbestos rate in the 15 samples from indoor and outdoor airborne total fiber particles. Results: 1. The average indoor airborne concentrations of total fiber particles were $0.0011{\pm}0007$ f/cc in schools and $0.0015{\pm}0007$ f/cc in public facilities by PCM. Over 90% of the fiber particles were identified as single fibers. 2. The average outdoor airborne concentrations of total fiber particles were $0.0007{\pm}0002$ f/cc, and they were lower than those of indoor airborne concentrations. 3. The results showed that the form of asbestiform was diverse as skein of thread like form and long needle, which was relatively narrower than that of glass fiber and rock wool. 4. The results of SEM/EDX analysis of 15 areas where total fiber particle was relatively high showed that the form was rather similar to that of asbestos, but chemical composition was proven to be non-asbestos. Conclusions: The concentration of indoor and outdoor airborne total fiber particles of Gyeongnam Provinces satisfied the IAQ (Indoor air quality) level of 0.01 f/cc and asbestos was not found in most of the samples by SEM/EDX.