• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.77-86
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to characterize physical and tensile properties according to a knitting method as basic materials for solving the difficulties that occur due to the fact that the crosswise elongation is most different among knit stitch at the time of measuring elongation of knitwear. The sample used for this study was wool $100\%$ and was knitted into two, that is, controlled loop length controlled to properties of structure and fixed loop length by using Shimaseiki SES-124S 12G computer automatic flat knitting machine with DSCS device. Also, the density of rib fabric was 12gauge and its quantity was a total of seven of $0{\times}0,\;1{\times}1,\;2{\times}1,\;2{\times}2,\;3{\times}3,\;4{\times}4$ and including plain fabric, and knitted 2 pieces of sample of 300 wale${\times}400$ course. In conclusion, rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 1991

In order to improve the shrink resistance of wool, the fabric was treated with D.C.C.A.(Di-chloro Isocyanuric Acid) and Hercosett. The results obtained as follows, 1. The optimum condition for the shrink resistance of wool fabric was Hercosett concentration of about 2.0~2.5%(o.w.f), pH of 7, the curing temperature of about $140^{\circ}C$, and curing time of 3 minutes. 2. The physical properties with the experimental conditions, such as the tensile strength, bending strengh, crease recovery, tearing strengh were confirmed by measurements.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.359-366
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• 2001

In this study, wool, silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with natural dyes derived from Ginkgo biloba bark using various mordants, and their dyeabilities were discussed. Additionally the fastness to washing, perspiration, light, rubbing, and drycleaning were investigated. And the effects of bacteria reduction and UV-B protection rate were also checked. The optimum dyeing condition of the colorants extracted from the Ginkgo biloba bark was three repeated dyeing at$95^\circ{C}$ for 1 hr. by using post mordanting. Mordanting improved the fastness to washing, Perspiration and drycleaning, but the fastness to light and rubbing were not increased. The bacteria reduction rate of the wool fabric increased drastically by dyeing with extract of Ginkgo biloba bark and its effect maintained after repeated washing and drycleaning. UV-B protection rate of the natural fibers increased by dyeing with extract of Ginkgo biloba bark and the dyed wool fabric was the best of the three fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.1-1
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• 2001

In this study, wool, silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with natural dyes derived from Ginkgo biloba bark using various mordants, and their dyeabilities were discussed. Additionally the fastness to washing, perspiration, light, rubbing, and drycleaning were investigated. And the effects of bacteria reduction and UV-B protection rate were also checked. The optimum dyeing condition of the colorants extracted from the Ginkgo biloba bark was three repeated dyeing at 95℃ for 1 hr. by using post mordanting. Mordanting improved the fastness to washing, Perspiration and drycleaning, but the fastness to light and rubbing were not increased. The bacteria reduction rate of the wool fabric increased drastically by dyeing with extract of Ginkgo biloba bark and its effect maintained after repeated washing and drycleaning. UV-B protection rate of the natural fibers increased by dyeing with extract of Ginkgo biloba bark and the dyed wool fabric was the best of the three fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2001

Textile fabrication affected by consumer and selected by fashion designer. The textile fabrication has been made not only by introducing the newly developed fiber but also by modifying the existing textile materials to impart sensibility to them. Consumers choose but to their sensibility of textile material and fashion trend. On purpose in this research is find out have influence on textile image. Wool fabrics have been in use from early age in northern Europe. Recognition of the role of the morphological structure, surface properties, chemical composition, acid-base characteristics in the chemical treatment of wool led to quantum advances in the fields of setting, shrink-resisting, chemical modification, and internal fiber cross-linking. Mechanical finishing to develop the handle, drape, and surface characteristics of the fabric is at least as important as chemical or wet finishing. Result showed that to have variety sensibility and trend theme in wool fabrics are tweed, venetian, serge, gabardine and melton.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.42-50
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• 1997

Bola-form electrolytes were synthesized by the reaction of pyridine with 1, 4-dibromobutane or 1, 10-dibromodecane, respectively. The effects of these electrolytes were studied in the dyeing of wool fabric with Orange II. The depth of shade of wool fabric with pretreated electrolyte were independent to the dyeing temperature and higher than those of one untreated. In the case of pretreating the electrolytes, there are no differences in the effects in dyeing behaviors between the 1, 4-dipyridiniumbutane and 1, 10-dipyridiniumdecane. But when the wool fabrics were dyed in water containing these electrolytes, dyeing behaviors were different to the numbers of carbon atom in electrolytes. 1, 4-dipyridiniumbutane has positive effects on the dyeing.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.229-230
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• 2009

Recently the demand for wool has been gradually decreasing due to global warming, oil depletion, Coolbiz campaign to reduce CO2 emission, and preference for business casual wear, while the price for wool materials has been constantly increasing. Wool, characterized by the natural touch and unique sensibility, is considered as one of the best natural materials, including silk. For wool, currently Korea almost depends on import from foreign countries. Therefore, 100% wool products cannot be competitive in terms of pricing and current trend. To secure sustaining competitiveness in the fiber market, it is required not only to develop new wool materials that enable expression of new sensibility that cannot be expressed by conventional wool fibers, but also to pursue differentiation of fundamental sensibility and functionality by highlighting advantages for wool as a natural fiber but by reducing its disadvantages through dominant conjugation with synthetic fibers. This study attempted to improve the technology of differentiating wool-like synthetic fibers such as polyester and combine technology with sensibility through mixing with wool materials. It also aimed to develop wool-like stretch materials and pre-treating and yarn dyeing technologies that enable fabrics to main natural wool-like touch and stretch, and ultimately to develop wool mixed fabrics that have new sensibility and functionality.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1998.10a
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• pp.290-294
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• 1998

Colour tone, lustre, surface roughness of fabrics are very important factors in pursue of the beauty of external appearance, namely aesthetic appearance, and the dynamic functionality of fabric used to clothe the human body. Drape is one of many factors that influence the aesthetic appearance of fabric and has an outstanding effect on the formal beauty of fabric. For this reason, the measurement and understanding of drape is required to specify the performance of fabric used in clothing. (omitted)

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

The study was about on the colorfastness of the natural vegetable dye. Impatient Balsamina was chosen as a speciesof the natural vegetable dye. It has a long history for Korean Women‘s grooming on the nail to be reddened, Actually those were very easy to gather and easy to extract the colors from the leaves and the flowers, Also Impatient Balsamina were abundant near our environment. So this was a cue as a natural dye for the wool fabric, This study was designed to testify the possibility of the Impatient Balsamina as a natural vegetable. First, 2 kinds of extracts from the Impatient Balsamina were prepared. Second, 2 kinds of mordants and 3 kinds of dyeing process were used. And the dyed wool fabric were evaluated the color index using Chroma Meter, the result was recorded as L$^*$, a$^*$, b$^*$ value(65.86, 16.40, 36.80). The effect of the mordants was more effective in Cr mordant than Al mordant in the color fastness and the color affinity. The very interesting results were in the colorfastness to the drycleaning, that was graded 4 to 5, but the colorfastness to light was low, graded 2. Impatient Balsamina was veryfied, it could be a natural vegetable dye for the wool fabric.