• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.83-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relationship among subjective textures, sensibilities and objective handle of knit fabrics and to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation, we used 29 questions of subjective textures and sensibilities and employed statistical analysis tools such as factor, Pearson's correlation analysis. An objective handle was measured by Kawabata evaluation system and HV and THV was calculated by KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter. The analysis of a Pearson's correlation with objective properties and handles and structural properties of knit fabrics demonstrated a highly linear relationship. Especially, wool/rayon contents and WT of tensile properties and loop stitch length and G of shear properties showed a correlation coefficient over 0.9. But a relationship of objective properties and subjective textures and sensibilities was non-linear and a linear multi-regression analysis showed that a objective handle had a lower prediction power in the area of subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1809-1820
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• 2001

본 연구에서는 모 직물의 접착심과의 접착 후, 프레싱 처리 후, 드라이클리닝 처리 후 프레스로 처리한 실제의 의복의 관리와 생산 면에서 접할 수 있는 직물 변화에 대하여 물성 변화를 살펴보았다. 겉감으로는 신사복 춘하용 모 100% 또는 모혼방 직물 15종류를 사용하였으며 심지로는 신사복에 많이 쓰이는 3종류 심지를 사용하였다. KES시스템을 이용하여 직물의 접착후, 프레싱 처리 후, 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후의 물성 변화를 시험하였으며 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1) 접착 후 EM은 대체로 감소하지만 강성과 이력 현상은 증가하는 것으로 나타났다. 결과로 KOSHI, SHARI, HARI는 증가하고 THV는 감소하여 태는 접착으로 저하되었다. 2) 프레싱 처리 후는 접착 후와 큰 차이를 보이지 않는다. 마찰특성에서 좀더 매끄러워지고 마찰 계수는 증가하는 것으로 나타났다. 3) 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후의 물성의 변화에서는 위사 방향의 큰 값을 갖는 경우에 감소하는 것으로 나타났다. 굽힘 강성과 전단강성은 감소하였지만 이력은 증가하는 흥미로운 결과를 보인다. 드라이클리닝 용제의 효과로 여겨진다. 무게는 증가하여 직물이 처리 후 수축한 것으로 나타났다. 프레싱 처리 후와 비교시 KOSHI, SHARI, HARI와 FURAMl는 감소하고 THV는 증가하여 태가 향상하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.7 s.144
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• pp.997-1007
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• 2005

The textile finishing methods utilizing chitosan have been mostly focused on the applications in the improvement of the dyeing of cotton fabrics, or the improvement of hand of the cotton or wool fabrics. On the other hand, it Is difficult to find the application examples in the synthetic fiber fabrics including polyester and nylon fabrics. The aim of this study is to improve the stiffness and the poor wash fastness of the fabrics treated only with chitosan. We tried to improve the softness by employing chitosan and polyurethane mixture solution and to prevent the detachment of the chitosan from the fabric. The treatment was applied to cotton, polyester, and nylon fabrics. The change of the properties of the treated fabrics were investigated. The optimum finishing condition was sought by changing the mixture ratio of the chitosan/PU(polyurethane) solutions. The adjusted ratios of the chitosan/PU solutions were 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, and 1 : 2 during the mixture solution preparation. Using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System), the physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were analyzed, and hand values of the specimens were calculated through the use of translational formulas. According to the chemical composition of the fibers, chitosan solution or chitosan/PU mixture exhibited wide range of coating effect. Since the chitosan acid solution has high polarity, the bonding force with the cotton fibers is high. By the appropriate addition of PU in the chitosan treatment of cotton, KOSHI and HARI values of the fabric improved. The air permeability of the chitosan/PU treated cotton fabric specimen improved, resulting in the highest value at the mixture of chitosan : PU=1:0.25.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.476-484
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing properties and anti-microbial ability of silk and wool fabrics dyed with Terminalia chebula Retzius(TCR) extract using two extraction solvent, hot water and methanol. Dyeing properties of fabrics were studied by investigating the characteristics of colorant, changes in dye uptake under different dyeing conditions, and by investigating color change when mordants were applied. Also, color fastness, and antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics were estimated. Regardless of extraction solvent type, colorant showed maximum absorption wavelength at 280 nm and 578 nm, which implied that tannin was the major pigment component of TCR. Also, through FT-IR spectrum result, it was confirmed that tannin of TCR methanol extract was hydrolysable tannin. But for the hot water extract, it was only assumed that its tannin was condenced tannin. Fabric dyed with hot water solvent extract showed higher dye uptake than fabric dyed with methanol solvent extract, dye uptake increasing by higher concentration of the dye, longer dyeing time and higher dyeing temperature. And the absorption curve between TCR extract and protein fiber was shaped in the form of Langmuir adsorption isotherm. Fabric dyed without mordant was yellow in color, and when dyed with mordant, fabric showed various colors depending on mordant types except Sn. Color fastness to washing was generally fine and color fastness to light was moderate. But color fastness to rubbing and dry cleaning was outstanding. Lastly, dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial activity of 99.9% against Staphylococcus aureus and Kiebsiella pneumoniae.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.129-136
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• 1993

Authors have studied the adsorption of anionic surfactant from detergent solutions on cotton fabric during washing process and have measured the concentration of the residual surfactant in rinsing solution. The relations with temperature and pre-soaking time to rinsing process have been studied. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate by various textile fibers has also been investigated. The results of this study are; 1. Three times rinsing is sufficient as, without pre-soaking, the concentration of the surfactant on fabric is stable from that time on. 2. The rinsing efficiency increases with temperature; at $25^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, and $55^{\circ}C$, the concentrations of surfactant on the fabric after-rinsing are 68, 59, 51 mg/100 g of fiber respectively. 3. The longer the pre-soaking time, the lower the rinsing efficiency is; the 4hrs presoaked fabric shows increased surfactant concentration than the one without-soaking. And the increment is 35.8%. 4. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate on fabrics differs greatly with the chemical nature of the fiber; wool, silk and nylon which are thought to be ionic-adsorbants shows greater adsorption. 5. The adsorption of surfactant is more affected by the ionic character than the physical one, and the one with higher crystallinity such as cotton and polyester shows lower value than rayon or acetate.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.38-43
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• 2020

To overcome the harmful effects caused by conventional oxidative hair dyes, natural colorants becomes more popular in the hair dyeing. By extracting Sagassum fusiforme powders with aqueous alkaline solution as a solvent at 130℃ for 60 minutes, a fucoxanthin concentration of up to 216㎍/ml can be obtained. UV/Vis analysis was used to prove the presence of fucoxanthin in the extract powder. A K/S value of 23.8 can be obtained when wool fabrics were dyed with the extract at 120℃ for 60 minutes under pH 2. The color fastness properties of the dyed wool fabrics were very good as indicated by rating 4 for laundering(color change), rating 3 or higher for rubbing, and rating 5 for light irradiation. The dyed wool fabric was found to have antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus. The antioxidant and antimicrobial activity of the Sagassum fusiforme extract can be an effective functional hair colorant. Hair dyeing with the extract formulation at 45℃ for 40 minutes under pH 5 accomplished a K/S value of 8.9. The color fastness of the dyed hair showed rating 3 against light irradiation, which increased to rating 5 with after-mordanting of tannin acid.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.22-35
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• 1998

The objective of this study was to investigate and to identify and to classify the fabric names concerning costume in the sumptuary laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa Ki(三國史記). The important findings of this study can be summarized as follows: Various names of fabrics concerning costume in the sumptuary laws of Silla were found to be classified into ten categories of fabrics. They were as follows: (1) kye( ), (2) Su(繡), (3) Kum(錦), (4) Ra(羅), (5) Reung(綾), (6) Sa(紗), (7) Si( ), (8) Kyun(絹), (9) Myun Ju(綿紬), (10) Po(布). Ra(羅) in ten categories was the most various. The numbering orders shown above were the orders of degree of valuability and preciousness of the fabrics in Silla. Namely, (1) Kye( ) was the most precious fabric, (2) Su(繡) was the second precious one, (3) Kum(錦) was the third precious one, and so on. It was found that the orders of the degree of preciousness of fabrics were a system for differentiating social class and rank, or sex of the people. It revealed the ordering system of the degree of the preciousness of fabrics of Silla was derived from T'ang dynasty. The system of Silla and T'ang system were almost the same each other. Materials used to manufacture fabrics were of mainly three kinds; e.g., wool, silk, and hemp. In these three kinds of materials silk was the most common stuff, and it was seen under the various names of the silks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1034-1043
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of the visual evaluation about gathered skirts according to different gathering conditions and objects. The experiment is made of factorial design for three variables-fabric(cotton, wool, polyester), ratio of gathers(1.5T, 2.0T, 2.5T), objects(real thing, 2D digital picture, 3D shape). Questionnaire consists of 33 sematic differential scale expressing gathered skirts' image. The subjects were 50 male and female students majoring in clothing and textile. The data were analyzed by Frequency, Factor analysis, Anova, scheffe's test. The results obtained were summarized as follows; 1. As the open-ended response there were difference among the image according to different gathering conditions and obects. 2. The image of gathered skirts was composed of 6 factors; activities, attraction, attention, softness, moderateness, function. 3. For visual evaluation of gathering conditions as different objects, there were similar as softly in fabrics and lager in ratio of gathers. 4. For visual evaluation of different objects as gathering conditions, there was more difference effect of ratio of gathers than fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.117-126
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.