• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.86-92
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• 2003

It is already known that the color of wool fabric dyed with disazo acid dyes could be changed in dyeing process and this is accelerated under alkaline condition. Focus was given to figuring out the mechanism of this color change, through the LC-MS analysis. In this study, no color change was seen in wool fabrics dyed with C. I. Acid Blue 113 under weak acidic, neutral and weak alkaline conditions for 1hour. However, the wool fabrics dyed under weak alkaline condition for a long time over 3 hours fumed reddish orange. When the wool fabrics dyed under weak acidic, neutral and weak alkaline conditions were treated with $0.5g/L\;Na_2C0_3$ solution, all of them turned reddish orange. On the other hand, the color of silk fabrics dyed with C. I. Acid Blue 113 were not changed after the same alkaline treatment. Wool contains cystine and cysteine, whereas silk does not. Due to the reversible reduction/oxidation process of cystine and cysteine in wool dyeing, the C. I. Acid Blue 113 of the dis-azo type is decomposed by reduction and consequently turned them into the reddish orange mono-azo types dye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1318-1329
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural characteristics of men's suit fabrics on the texture image and the preference, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the practical sales ratio. In addition, the texture images and the preference of fabric and jackets made of the same fabrics were compared. As specimen, jackets for men's suit of 2002' S/S and their fabrics were collected. Questionnaires composed of 22 sensibility related and 21 fabric image related adjectives were developed. For the subjective evaluation of the texture image, both jackets and fabric samples were tested. Tests were performed with 100 female subjects in clothing department and apparel industry. For the objective evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, yarn twist, fabric count, thickness and weight were analyzed. Total Hand Value were calculated from mechanical properties determined by the KES-FB system. Factor analysis showed sensibilities were classified into 6 categories; "surface roughness", "weight", "density", "stiffness", "elasticity" and "wetness". Fabric images were classified into 4 categories; "classic", "original", "practical", and "stuffy". Depending on the method to show the specimen to the subjects, whether it is suit or fabric, statistically significant differences were observed with a number of adjectives for sensibilities and fabric images. The results of THV of KES did not agree with the preference of subjects, which suggests that we should be careful when using the KES system, which was developed for Japanese people. Price was considered to be another factor besides the texture image that influenced on purchase.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.231-236
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• 2019

This study investigated the proper dyeing conditions, color fastness and functionality of wool fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz. We also tried to improve light fastness through treatment with benzophenone ultraviolet absorber. The dyeing of wool fabrics using Zizania latifolia Turcz was good even without pretreatment or mordanting treatment. Optimal wool fabric dyeing conditions were colorant concentration of 200% (o.w.f.), dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, dyeing time of 80 minutes and a dye bath pH of 3. Color fastness of dyed wool fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light was 4-5, 5, 4-4-5 (acidic), 4-5 (alkaline) and 2 respectively. The results after treatment with ultraviolet absorber for improving the fastness of daylight were improved to 3-4 grade. The UV protection rate were increased after dyeing and the deodorization of ammonia gas improved to 98%. Bacterial reduction rate (Staphylococcus aureus) of wool fabrics was excellent at 99.9%. All dye fastness (except for light fastness) was excellent; in addition, the functionality of wool fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz also improved. The results are expected to be applied to various fields because they indicate excellent results after treatment with ultraviolet absorber for improving the fastness of daylight.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1461-1466
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• 2008

This study provides effects of mixed activators on enzymatic activation and determines optimum mixture ratio for enzymatic treatment. Wool 80% and polyester 20% blend fabric and papain from carica papaya are used in this experiment. L-cysteine and sodium sulfite are used as activators for papain treatment process. The treatment condition is pH 7.5, $70^{\circ}$, papain concentration 10%(o.w.f), 60 minutes. L-cysteine and sodium sulfite are added in enzyme solution with various concentrations($0{\sim}50mM$). The optimum treatment condition is determined by measuring weight loss, tensile strength, whiteness, water contact angle(WCA), dyeability and surface micrographs. The results are as follow; The optimum mixture ratio of activators is L-cysteine 2mM and sodium sulfite 10mM. Mixed activators assists in improving the activation of papain. WCA of papain treated fabrics is decreased since papain treatment with activator mixture makes wool polyester blend fabrics more hydrophilic. Dyeing property of papain-treated fabrics more improves by the treatment with mixed activators than with single activator. It means that this method can save time and lower cost. After papain treatment in the presence of mixed activator, the surface of fabrics is modified. The surface of wool fiber shows to be descaled and hydrolyzed, and that of polyester fiber shows to be cracked.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.55-62
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• 2003

Wool fabrics were dyed with the aqueous solution of C. I. Red Acid 114 mixed with methanol dissolving three kinds of barely water soluble ketones, acetophenone, 2-pentanone, and 3-pentanone. The steric hinderance and the orientation of the bigger hydrophobic part of the solvated dye molecules to the fiber slowed down the dying rate, however, loosening the wool molecule, say a little swelling, disaggeregating the dye molecules, and attaining the higher dye concentration on the fiber surface by the added solvents increased the amount of dye on the fabric. The higher concentration or/and the higher dyeing temperature helped loosen fiber molecules and made it easier for the solvated dye molecules to penetrate into the inside of the fiber. Acetophenone, the most influential solvent used, showed that the ability to loosen fiber molecules was the most important of all the three positive solvent actions mentioned above. The considered mechanism provided before reflected the fact that the dye uptake on the fabric dyed with the solvents included, except for 0.034M and 0.051M of acetophenone, was even lower than that without any solvents at $50^\circ{C}$, but all the solvents added to the dye bath increased the dye uptake on the fiber at $70^\circ{C}$.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.209-217
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• 2014

Detergency and soil redeposition of wool fabric in drycleaning solvents, i.e. petroleum solvent, perchloroethylene (PCE), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane($D_5$), with commercial detergents were studied. The detergency of wool soiled cloth in drycleaning solvents without detergents were the order of PCE > petroleum solvent > $D_5$. When commercial detergents were added to the system, the detergency were greatly improved. When 1.0% water was added to solvents/commercial detergents system, the detergency of petroleum solvent and PCE improved whereas that of $D_5$ decreased. The soil redeposition prevention effects of solvents were the same order of detergency, i.e. PCE > petroleum solvent > $D_5$. When commercial detergents were added to the system, the soil redeposition changed depending on solvents and detergents. The soil redeposition in $D_5$ became higher with a commercial detergent, therefore it is important to develop appropriate detergents for $D_5$. Three silicone surfactants were tested for detergency and soil redeposition in $D_5$ to find candidate surfactants for drycleaning detergent formulations. Silicone surfactant PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone was found to be the best surfactant for $D_5$ drycleaning detergents.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.11
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• pp.1520-1526
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• 2005

Henna is a natural colorant and has been used to dye hair, skin and leather since civilization began. It has reddish brown to orange shade. The major color components of Henna are Lawsone(2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthaquinone) and Luteolin (3',4',5,7-tetrahydroxy-flavone). In this study, various fibers containing the nitrogen component, especially used fur underwear, were dyed with Henna under various dyeing conditions, then dyeing characteristics, color fastness, and anti-bacterial properties were evaluated. from the results, Henna has good affinity to the chlorinated wool>wool>Pu/nylon>nylon>soybean>silk in decreasing order. The color fastness of the wool fabric dyed with Henna to washing, dry-cleaning, and perspiration showed 4-5 grade. The color fastness to light was 3rd grade. These results are relatively good comparing with other natural dyes. Moreover dyed fabric with Henna showed excellent antibacterial activity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.33-37
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• 1998

It is rather important in the water and oil repellent finishing for wool fabric what kind of water-repellent agents will be used. In many cases, Fluorocarbon-based water-repellent agents(eg.Oleophobol-S), the surface tensions of which very low, were recom-mended on account of good water and oil repellencies. In repellent finishing, fabrics were padded in a bath which contained aqueous solution of water-repellent agents, and wetting agents, followed by drying and curing. The most suitable treating condition for excellent repellency was as follows Fabrics were padded at liquor pick-up ratio of 50%, with aqueous solution which contained $30g/\ell$ of water-repellent agents, and $40g/\ell$ of wetting agents. And the padded fabrics were dried at $110^\circ{C}$ for 1 minute, and cured at $160^\circ{C}$ for 2 minutes. For the fabrics, water and oil repellencies and durability to repeated dry-cleanings are observed.