• Title/Summary/Keyword: Women's costume in Silla dynasty

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Conceptualizing Korean Fashion with Inspiration from Traditional Images -Focused on Women's Costume in the Silla Dynasty- (전통 이미지를 활용한 한국적 패션 컨셉 개발 -신라 여성 복식을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, So Hee;Chae, Keum Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.39 no.1
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    • pp.91-105
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    • 2015
  • This paper accomplishes the following points: First, the costume style held by women in the Silla dynasty are examined. Second, a new fashion concept is drawn from Silla's costume images with lessons from analyzing how major brands from China and Japan have adopted their own traditional images. Third, a Korean fashion concept is crafted to reflect important modern fashion design factors. The conclusions of this study are: The concept of Korean fashion using Silla costume image based on the 2015 S/S trend was developed and suggested as: 'Harmony of Contrast', new beauty created by mutually contrasting things; 'Timeless' transcending time-space flowing from the past, present, to future; 'Empathy' where past and present are harmonized; 'Modern with Antique' expressing a new style modernism where the old retains value. The efforts to express identity via conceptualization of Korean fashion are an effective strategy that satisfies the goals of setting Korea's fashion design apart from others and spreading Korean culture.

A Study on Women′s Costume Colors in the Sumptuary Laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa ki(三國史記) (삼국사기의 복식연구 IV -색복의 부인 복색을 중심으로-)

  • 김진구
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.36-44
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study was to identify and to classify the names of costume colors of women of Silla. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Until now scholars and researchers interpreted nine colors in Sam Guk Sa Ki as nine colors explained in the dictionaries. However, term, nine colors in the contexts did not refer to the literary meaning of nine colors such as blue, red, yellow, white, black, green, purple, pink, and navy blue as explained in the dictionaries. 'Nine colors' of Silla were women's costume colors which were specified in the royal edict in the texts. Thus, 'nine colors' of Silla had a specific meaning rather than literary meaning. 'Nine colors' of Silla women's costume were identified as red( ), yellow(黃), purple(紫), purplish pink(紫粉), gold powder(金屑), pink(紅), yellow powder(黃屑), dark pink(緋) and dark purple(滅紫). These 'nine colors' were actually prohibited colors in women's costume in the royal edict. Women from true bone, the highest class, were prohibited the use of tow colors of red and yellow out of nine colors. While women from four du pum and common class were forbidden the use of nine colors out of total of nine colors. Kinds and numbers of colors of costume were used as a means of differentiating the social class and rank of women in Silla. Also it was found that women of Silla favored red purple, pink tones and yellow color in their costume and these colors were fashionable colors among women of Silla. These fashionable costume colors of Silla women seems to be influenced by fashions of women of T'ang dynasty of China. Red, purple, pink, yellow and green were favorite colors of women of T'ang dynasty of China.

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Research of the Aesthetic Consciousness in the Silla Dynasty (신라의 미의식 연구)

  • Kim, So Hee;Chae, Keum Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.37 no.4
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    • pp.452-466
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    • 2013
  • The Silla Dynasty was an open society and was an independent, creative, brilliant culture built on diverse cultures and values. Transforming from the Silla Dynasty to the Unified Silla, it unified the culture of the Three Kingdoms into one. It also displayed unique clothes that adapted new foreign elements into rich clothes forms unlike previous styles. This study first classifies the aesthetic consciousness of the Silla Dynasty by exploring the beauty of the Silla Dynasty realized through artifacts, books, and records in the Silla Dynasty and defines the each characteristic of the aesthetic consciousness. Second, it highlights the independency of Korean beauty through an investigation of how the aesthetic consciousness form appeared through these new appearances in the aesthetic consciousness of Silla Dynasty clothes. The results of the study show that the aesthetic consciousness of the Silla Dynasty can be inferred through Silla Dynasty artifacts, literature, sensuous beauty, and records that were classified into random natural beauty, humorous beauty, and decorative technical beauty. The Silla Dynasty aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic consciousness appeared in Silla Dynasty clothes based on the aesthetics of authenticity that created the honest and simple aesthetic moving of the early natural aesthetic sense of the Silla Dynasty. Silla Dynasty clothes are found to have transformed into an ornamental aesthetic consciousness of a sensual and decorative aesthetic consciousness in a Unified Silla.

A Study on the Hair Ornaments in the Period of the Three Kingdom States (삼국시대 머리 장신구에 대한 연구)

  • 김문자
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.5
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    • pp.712-722
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to classify of the Hair ornaments in old tombs of the Three Kingdom States. Hair ornaments was divided into Combs, Rod-like hairpins, Chae[;釵], Boyo[;步搖] Combs were 2 type in according to the tooth's space, wide-tooth comb[;梳] and fine-tooth comb(;比). The general name of two type was called Jeul(;櫛). Combs were excavated from the only ancient Silla tombs. Rod-like hairpins were called Gha(叉) or Jam(:簪). They were found in most of the old tombs in Goauryeo, Baekje, ancient Silla tombs. The style was L-type and embellished circular head-type. Chae(;釵) was understand Cha(:叉) that had two tongs. Chae(:釵) was generally U-type and rarely hairtweezers -type. Jakchae(;爵釵) was understand distinctive Chae(;釵) hanged with phoenix. This type was excavated from the only Baekje tombs of King of Muryeong. Boyo(;步搖) was originally a hair decoration of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the Wijin period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Dang Dynasty, hair ornaments were considered indicators of status and wealth. Boyo(;步搖) hair accessory features of which are suspended from a elaborate hairpin structure. Such pieces were designed to sway as their wearer walked. The bequest was not found, but we catch the Boyo(; 步搖) that was women'head decoration in painting of old tombs in Goguryeo.

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A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty (고려시대 사람들의 삶과 전통의상에 대한 고찰)

  • Choi Kyu-Seong
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.6 s.53
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    • pp.1060-1069
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    • 2004
  • We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

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The Women's Costume of the Ruling Class on Nara Period of Japan (일본 나라시대 지배계층의 여자복식)

  • Lee, Ja-Yeon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.11 no.5
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    • pp.701-708
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    • 2009
  • The study aims to investigate women's clothes described in Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang in Nara period of Japan to gain a clear understanding of the clothes of the ruling class women at that time. Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang was made in Nara period of Japan when Japan sent envoys and students to Tang, a dynasty of China, to acquire advanced civilization. At that time, Japan also fostered a strong international culture through the exchanges with neighboring nations. With this inflow of continental culture, Japan was dramatically advanced politically, socially, and culturally. The analysis of the clothes of Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang showed that she had her hair decorated with Bogye. She wore Ungyeon, Baeja, Daesui, and Tongsui as for her upper garment and Gun, Seub, and Peseul as for her lower garment. She also wore Bidae and Youngeon and put on Geummal and Seok on her feet. Overall, these results suggested that she wore Chinese style clothes. The clothes of Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sangwere very similar to formal dresses of high class women described in Yangroryeong. Some of her clothes were not shown in Yangroryeong because those clothes were added after Yangroryeong. Another reason may be due to the fact that generalized clothes could be worn even though those clothes were not described in the dress code. In conclusion, the clothes described in Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang suggest that they were based on the dress code of Nara Period of Japan while there were also some variations due to the cultural circumstances at that time.

A study on Perfume case (향(香) 집에 관한연구)

  • 이선재
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.33
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    • pp.117-142
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    • 1997
  • This study is on perfume case that is one of a great number of ornaments which was designed by out ancestors. We had developed the tradition and the history of perfume case bag fan-weight etc. These have the same function as the present perfume. case. There were basket-shaped perfume cases which were the smellest one among the personal girdle ornaments in the silla era. The various patterned perfume case were made of gold metal coral platinum or green jadeite etc. In the single-crop trinkets a embroidered perfume bag with the gold and silver thread whose forms perfectly match their functions appeared during the Yi Dynasty. There was also a perfume bag which was one of the daily necessities. A precious "jul perfume" was carried by noble women. A fan-weight perfume bag was attached to the fan to emphasize the intrinsic beauty of utility and function. It is necessary to know the function of prefume case. As perfume case is weared on the clothes it was given more decorative effects as well as the function of medicinal amulet with a sweet smell. Therefore it is very important for us to study perfume case that has various function as an ornament. So The purpose of this study is to investigate the practical and decorative side of perfume case with the general examines of perfume finding how to practice use through our life. The results were as follows; 1. The first use of perfume is perfume through smoke which is for ceremony of religion It removes human body odor by degrees and spreads a sweet odor. Also the materials for making perfume of early age is aromatic plants which will be used flour-made flowers stems. As the materials for making perfume use is increasing today we can invent alcohol perfume today 2. Our country the custom of perfume-used is wide. Among them men's perfume-used was very special phenomenon. For example men were wearing perfume bag in the Silla era. Because perfume represented wealth and noble in those days. They shew off social position personality through perfume-used. 3. One of early religion ceremony article there was the perfume. And perfume case was means for containing perfume. Gradually the perfume case was used widly as increasing needs of perfume in human life. 4. In the middle period of 'Koryo' Dynasty perfume cases had a close relationship with clothes but after Mongolian has been attacked 'Koryo' there were changes in wearing clothes therefore the position of perfume cases were transfered to coat string that was the origin of decoration style that they began. That is to say the perfume case has been influenced the position of perfume case shapes with changing of fashion. 5. The perfume case has been made manifest various function as an ornament. In the practical side First medical-perfume in perfume case has been played an important role in first-aid medicine in critical condition. Second it was amulet for self protection. That is the shape pattern color materials perfume of the perfume case was represented the amuletive nature. Third it was used as substitute article of perfume. Modern women use liquid-perfume as our ancestors used perfume case bag or jul perfume As started above. Also In the decorative side the perfume case has a beautiful formative arts by itself as well as a close relationship with clothes. That well as a close relationship with clothes. That is when the perfume case is worn on the clothes costume is showed aesthetices. That is the materials shapes color pattern of the perfume case we can see the visual beauty also the materials colors embroidered pattern knots tassel that are used the perfume case are increased the decorative beauty of costume. Sixth the symbol in pattern of the pattern case is shown ancetor's wealth and rank health longevity immortality many-born-boy in those days. Today the perfume case is not used with changing of costume by degrees, Accordingly I hope that the result of this study is an influened in devlopment of the perfume case design with matching the modern fashion.

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A Study on the "Kea Ju", "Goon Bok" and "Yoong Bok" ("개주"와 "군복"과 "융복"에 관한 연구)

  • Im Myung Mi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.31-47
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    • 1979
  • 1. The old Korean costume had two different kind of dress, one was a military uniform (Goon bok) for military only and the other was uniform (Yoongbok) for civilian and militarian. 2. The military uniform (Goonbok) were dressed under armour, was for war time. And the civilian and military uniform were dressed under Mo (Hat) and Po (Coat dress), was for War time or emergent case. 3. Armour were made of leather in ancient times but later they were made of metal. 4. In generally, armour is classified; 1) To protect neck 2) To protect shoulders and arms 3) To protect breast 4) To protect both legs 5) To protect hands 5. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only. at the time of three Nations (Ko-kuryo, Bakje. Silla) 1) Armour-a) Identified by found relics or ancient wall picture. b) They had improver! armour. c) Armour of three Nations were resembled each other. 2) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) The Jeogori reached to hip area was called Jangyoo. b) The pants were tight trousers. 6. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only at Koryo Dynasty. 1) They had improved armour like three nation's age. 2) They were made of iron. leather, paper or cloth 3) The color was white. puple. red. 4) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) Hat-(1) Banggak (2) Josamoja (3) Ibgak (4) Jakwan (5) Sabgak (6) Sumale (7) Jaragwan (8) Kummoja (9) Mubyunkwan (10) Pyungyunchek b) Dress-(l) Jayeisokade (2) Bosanghwa Gayendae (3) Hongbeja Rokrahansam (4) Jag- ongbok Hongeung (5) Jagongbok Jogeung (6) Kumyeisokdae (7) Bilapeja Rokrahansam (8) Jasupoto (9) Kumyei Honggung (10) Kumyei Dokuyeunsokdae (11) Bibosunghwa Dongokumdae (12) Bidaesuyei Kayeundae (13) Jasosulansam (14) Biyeiko (15) Chung-yei Dongsim Sokdae 7. Armour and military uniform of Lee Dynasty 1) Armour-a) the Helmets were attached with visor ar without visor, and later it was added the neck protecter. b) dresses were given various names according to the materials used. for example, Suiejakap or Kyungfunkap. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok) were composed by molip, Hyunchungsakpuja, Jundae, Soowhaja. 8. Military uniform (yoongbok) for civilian and militarian 1) The unifom was developped through Imjin war, Byungja war since the middle of Lee Dynasty. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok), (Yoongbok), armour were by the established dress reg-ulation of imperial ordinance dated April 8th, 1895 which falls 35th year of Kojong. the dress regulation was based upon the western uniform.

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A Study of Historical Costume from the Mural Tombs of Dukheungri (덕흥리(德興里) 고분벽화(古墳壁畵)의 복식사적(服飾史的) 연구(硏究))

  • Park, Kyung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.5
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    • pp.41-63
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    • 1981
  • The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.

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