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An Analysis on the Morphological Relationship of Hair Styles with Changes in Necklines and Collars: From 16th Century to 19th Century

  • Kim, Hyoju;Bae, Soojeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.18 no.3
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    • pp.117-133
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    • 2014
  • This thesis aims to investigate the morphologic relationship among the neckline, collar, and hair style, in which the width and height were measured by selecting the representative costumes from 16th to 19th centuries. The pieces of 170 pictures selected by fashion experts were cut in the same condition, with the part of the end of shoulder, head, and chest all placed on the equal level. The products were directly measured by a team of 3 specialists for verification of this study, of which results were calculated into average. The values of output were categorized into the unit of decade and finally into a graph of variation, in which the trend and relationship were evaluated according to the width and height. In 16th century, the width and height of the neckline were inversely proportional to those of hair style, while those of collar were proportional to those of hair style. In 17th century, the width and height of the hair style were proportional to those of neckline and collar. In 18th century, those of the neckline were inversely proportional to the hair style, with no collar found. In 19th century, the width of the neckline and collar were proportional to that of the hair style, while the height of the neckline and collar were inversely proportional to that of the hair style. The analysis of the morphologic relationship among neckline, collar, and hair style resulting from this study revealed that the change of the hair style took place corresponding to those of neckline and collar. Generally, the width of the hair style was found to be more resistant to change, compared to those of neckline and collar that were more susceptible. The height of the neckline was more resistant to change, compared to those of the hair style and collar presenting their frequently fluctuating height. Conclusively, the factor of height rather than that of width showed more dominant proportions, because the various forms of the collar and hair style evolved in terms of the height rather that width, relative to that of the neckline.

A study of post-operative changes in facial height and width of mandibular prognathic patients (하악전돌증 환자의 수술후 안모길이 및 폭경의 변화에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Eun-Joo;Moon, Cheol-Hyun
    • The korean journal of orthodontics
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    • v.30 no.3 s.80
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    • pp.367-375
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    • 2000
  • If a mandibular prognathic patient has an extremely unnatural anteroposterior and vertical maxilla or keen esthetical perception for facial profile, orthognathic surgery must be performed along with orthodontic treatment, which alone cannot provide satisfactory results in this case. Esthetical improvement becomes an important factor in the satisfaction level of the patient's treatment result, but an attempt to objectively measure beauty holds many problems. Therefore, in the end, the patient submits the final esthetical evaluation based on his/her subjective viewpoint. Because Korean people have a tendency to prefer the facial appeareance of westerners, they favor an oval shaped face over the traditional round face. This research was conducted in response to the complaints raised by patients who claim that their face had become more round from widening of facial width after the orthognathic surgery for manidibular prognathism than before the surgery. The following results were obtained on the changes in facial appearance and patient satisfaction level by analyzing the skull P-A analysis of total of 14 patients (8 male and 6 female) who underwent orthognathic surgery primarily chief complaint for manidibular prognathism and from their responses on questionnaires. These results are to be used in the research on the pre- and post- operative changes in facial height and width from orthognatic surgery. 1. Three ($21.4\%$) of 14 patients said that their face had widened. 2. The A group showed no change in mandibular width but B group showed a 0.7mm reduction. The facial width increased by 0.45mm and 0.66mm in groups A and B, respectively, after the orthognathic surgery 3. After the surgery the facial length changed by an 0.52mm increase in upper facial height , 1.19mm reduction in lower facial height, and 0.7mm reduction in mandibular height in group A. In group B group, there was a 0.67mm reduction in upper facial height, 3.66mm reduction in lower facial height, and 5mm reduction in mandibular height. 4. In reference to facial width, the facial height showed $1.5\%$ reduction in group A and $3.6\%$ reduction in group B after the surgery. 5. In reference mandibular height-to-facial width ratio, there was a $1.3\%$ reduction in group A, and $4.4\%$ reduction in group B after the surgery. 6. In reference to the mandibular height-to-width ratio, there was a $1.3\%$ reduction in group A and $4.3\%$ reduction in group B after the surgery. 7. Although the change in the facial width due to surgery can be ignored, sufficient explanation should be Provided to the patient before surgery on the fact that the face can appear to be relatively wide because of the reduced facial length as result of the surgery.

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Analysis of Types of Gather Drape with Visual Evaluation (시각적 평가에 의한 개더 드레이프 형상 분석)

  • Lee Myung-Hee;Jung Hee-Kyeong
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.33-40
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    • 2005
  • Gathering is method used to control fullness along a seam line. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the quantitative research and qualitative method; the effect of gather and the types of gather drape. The experimental design consists of four factors: (l) three kinds of different weight and thickness of fabrics (2) three kinds of stitch densities (3) five kinds of ratio of gathers (4) three kinds of grain directions. Therefore one hundred thirty five (135) samples were made. And utilized SPSS WIN 10.0 Package in data analysis. The results of this study were as follows; First, after frequency analysis, side height, hem line width, node depth, node count, node width accorded with these result data recording. Second, after correlation analysis, side height related with front statements. Side height and entire visual was negative correlation. Hem line width, node depth, node count with section statements was negative correlation but node width at section statements was positive correlation. Third, after $k^2$ analysis, front picture parts getting excellent evaluation were 1st side height, 3rd hem line width, 4th node depth, 3rd node count, 3rd node width. And section illustration parts getting excellent evaluation were 4th side height, 1st hem line width, 2nd node depth, 3rd node count, 4th node width.

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Allometry, Basal Area Growth, and Volume Equations for Quercus mongolica and Quercus variabilis in Gangwon Province of Korea

  • Choi, Jung-Kee;You, Byung-Oh;Burkhart, Harold E.
    • Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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    • v.96 no.2
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    • pp.189-196
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    • 2007
  • Allometry, basal area equations, and volume equations were developed with various tree measurement variables for the major species, Quercus mongolica and Quercus variabilis, in Korean natural hardwood forests. For allometry models, the relationships between total height-DBH, crown width-DBH, height to the widest portion of the crown-total height, and height to base of crown-total height were investigated. Multiple regression methods were used to relate annual basal area growth to tree variables of initial size (DBH, total height, crown width) and relative size (relative diameter, relative height) as well as competition measures (competition index, crown class, exposed crown area, percent exposed crown area, live crown ratio). For tree volume equations, the combined-variable and Schumacher models were fitted with DBH, total height and crown width for both species.

A Study on a Science Laboratory Model for Elementary School (국민학교(國民學校) 과학실험실(料學實驗室) 모형(模型)의 연구개발(硏究開發))

  • Choi, Don-Hyung;Han, Bok-Soo
    • Journal of The Korean Association For Science Education
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.15-25
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    • 1984
  • The purpose of this study is to develop a practical and ideal model of science laboratory enrolled 48-60 students by studying optimal facilities such as laboratory tables and chairs proper to elementary school settings. The science laboratory model was figured out in terms of the following six procedures; (1) Current status as well as problems of science laboratory and its facilities was identified by means of the questionnaires conducted to 201 elementary schools, using stratified cluster sampling tehnique, under the consideration of the school size and the regional characteristics across the country. (2) Collected were the anthropometric data with respect to sitting height, popliteal height, buttock popliteal length, elbow rest height, and back width from the 747 students, 4th-6th grade, in Seoul area. (3) It was measured the work apace necessary for individual student to perform his experiment. (4) Using the data of the process (2), we determined the optimal sizes of laboratory tables and chairs fitted for Korean elementary school students. (5) The optimal area of science laboratory for 48-60 students is determined in terms of the data obtained in (3) for individual work space in addition to the appropriate table size figured out by (4). (6) A practical and ideal model for a science laboratory in elementary school was designed according to the above procedures. For the optimal model of science laboratory, the results of this study can be summarized as follows: The sizes of chair and table are categorized into three groups such as small, medium, and large depending on students' physical outfit. The small size base on the 12.5th percentile point of students' sitting height is used for students of the 0-25th percentile ranks. The medium size base on the 50th percentile point of students' sitting height is used for students of the 26-75th percentile ranks. The large size base on the 87.5th percentile point of students' sitting height is used for students of the 76-100th percentile ranks. (1) Sizes of chairs: The small size is 28cm in width and 33cm in height. The medium size is 31cm in width and 36cm in height. The large size is 35cm in width and 38cm in height. (2) Sizes of laboratory tables: The small size is 120cm in length, 86cm in width, and 60cm in height. The large size is 120cm in length, 86cm in width, and 60cm in height. The large size is 120cm in length, 86cm in width, and 65cm in height. (3) Size of science laboratory: The optimal science laboratory for 48-60 elementary school students, which can install the 12 laboratory tables, is 12m in length and 10m in width.

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Effect of Row-width and Plant-spacing within Row on Yield in Safflower, Carthamus tinctorius L. (재식밀도 차이가 약용작물 홍화의 수량에 미치는 영향)

  • 박종선
    • KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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    • v.26 no.4
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    • pp.357-362
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    • 1981
  • This study was conducted to examine the best population density and agronomic characteristics affected by different row-widths and planting-spaces within row in safflower. As both row-width and spacing were narrowed, plant height and height to first branch were increased, and the number of branch per plant showed decrease. Plant height showed negative correlation with row-width, height to first branch showed negative correlation with row-width x spacing, and number of branch per plant had positive correlation with row width, and row-width x spacing but negative correlation with plant height. Yield was affected by spacing and row-width x spacing. In spacing, 5cm plot performed the best yield, and 30 x 5cm population density was the best cultural method to increase safflower yield. Yield had negative correlation with spacing and row-width x spacing, but positive correlation with height to first branch.

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Body compensation image on power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket according to the shoulder height and width (파워 숄더 래글런 슬리브 재킷의 어깨 높이와 너비 변화에 따른 신체 보정 이미지)

  • Lee, Si-Baek;Suh, Mi-A;Uh, Mi-Kyung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.117-125
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of body compensation image on variations in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket. Nine samples were examined: 3 variations of the shoulder height and 3 variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; as a result of analyzing the body compensation image according to changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, five factors were selected; the shoulder compensation factor, the bust compensation factor, the waist compensation factor, the arm compensation factor and the neck compensation factor. Among these factors, the shoulder compensation factor is the most important factor. Examining the major effect of the body compensation image based on changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, it had an independent influence on factors about waist, neck, shoulder and arm compensation except a factor about bust compensation, had an influence on interacting effect of factors about shoulder, bust, waist, arm compensation, and it had no influence on interacting effect of a factor about neck compensation. This shows that the shoulder height has larger effect on neck compensation image than the shoulder width in power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket.

A Study on the Sleeve Cap Ease of Leather Garment (피혁 의류의 Sleeve Cap Ease 분량에 관한 연구)

  • 최보람;서미아
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.33-43
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    • 2001
  • In this study, both kinds of materials, that is, leather and woolen fabrics, which have similar thickness, have been adopted. To determine proper length of ease, not only sleeve cap height but also sleeve width has been adjusted mainly based on 5cm length of the ease, which follows maximum sleeve cap height, and then different length of ease, for example, 4cm, 3cm, 2cm and 1cm of ease, have been made. As a result, eighteen kinds in total of sleeves have been made: In other words, each nine kinds of both leather and woolen fabrics have different ease lengths. In addition, each sleeve has been inspected visually and functionally. Following conclusion has been gotten based on outcome of the study: 1. Proper ease length for manufacture of leather garment is said to be 1∼2 cm. As a result, ease length with higher sleeve cap height shall be 1∼2cm, while the length with lower sleeve cap height shall be 1cm or less. 2. Wider sleeve width has better function. Considering relations with sleeve cap height, sleeve width shall exceed +4cm of bicep line. 3. to satisfy a variety of those conditions while manufacturing leather garment, sleeve cap height, which is used for the manufacture of full dress and street wear garment, To lessen the ease length, body A.H shall be relatively loose under the arms, or pad shall be supplemented on the shoulder, so that the difference had better be lessened to solve such problems.

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A study on stroke width-to-height ratio and reading distance of the Korean character (한글의 획폭비와 가시거리에 관한 연구)

  • 최동찬;박영택
    • Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.9-18
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    • 1987
  • The purpose of this study was to find the optimal stroke width-to-height ratio of the Korean character (Hangeul) which yields the greatest reading distance. In this study, black characters on a white background were used under 200 lux conditions in-doors, with the stroke width-to-height ratios ranging from a very thin 1:125 to heavier 1: 8.3. The criterion was the average reading distance at which three subjects (male university students) having normal visual acuity (1.2) could read the characters. Using the data obtained from the experi- ment, we analyzed the relationship between stroke width-to-height ratio and reading distance. In the case of the black characters on a white background, the greatest reading distances occurred with a range from 1:11.4 to 1:17.9.

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A Numerical Study on Flow Characteristics Around Rectangular Cylinder with Different Width-to-height Ratios (종횡비 변화에 따른 사각실린더 주위의 유동 특성에 관한 수치적 연구)

  • Park, Yong-Gap;Son, Chang-Min
    • Korean Journal of Air-Conditioning and Refrigeration Engineering
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    • v.22 no.8
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    • pp.523-529
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    • 2010
  • We investigate two-dimensional laminar flow around rectangular cylinders placed in a uniform stream. Numerical simulations are performed, using finite volume method, in the ranges of $50{\leq}Re{\leq}150$ and $0.1{\leq}W/H{\leq}1.0$, where Re and W/H are the Reynolds number and the width-to-height ratio, respectively. The immersed boundary method is used to handle the rectangular cylinder in a rectangular grid system. Comparisons with the previous results show good agreement in Strouhal number, drag and lift coefficient. The present study reports the detailed information of flow structure at different width-to-height ratios in the ranges of $50{\leq}Re{\leq}150$.