• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.109-121
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• 2013

Modern Hanbok uses newly different color coordination based on traditional color coordination and symbolic meaning. Thus, this study would investigate the aspects of color coordination and symbolic meaning and present the characteristics of Hanbok as the data of corresponding period in the modern times. In order to investigate recent trend of preferred colors and color coordination of Hanbok, this study focused on the period of 2005~2010. When analyzing colors of Jegori(jacket), Wh, Y, B, YG, P and Gy series are shown in order. For trends for color of Chima(skirt), Pk, R, P, Gy and Bk series are shown in order. When you look into the color coordination of skirt and jacket on whole, color coordination of Pk-Wh represents the highest frequency. Color coordinations of Pk-Y, Pk-B, R-Y, R-G and Pk-G are followed in order. Color coordinations of R-YG, Bk-Wh, O-Y, P-Wh, Pk-YG, Gy-Y, R-Wh series and Gy-Wh are followed in order. When looking into characteristics of overall color coordination of Hanbok, it was shown that there were many opportunities to meet a variety of culture and various colors had emerged depending on individual taste and skin color in the modern times within the framework of basic colors of woman's 'Nokeuihongsang'(Green upper garment and red skirt) R-G, Y series, which are traditionally inherited. In addition, unlike existing traditional color coordination of five elements in the past, P, Gy and Bk series of color appeared in the skirt and Jacket. It could be affected by fashionable drama and films at that time and newly attempted colors ahead of fashion were reflected on the magazine. Therefore, it implied that it naturally gave new awareness of colors to the general public and the width of selection of colors became diverse.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.169-183
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• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.47-69
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to inquire the hair, head-dress and clothing(upper clothing: Veil, Samkaksika, Sash) of Bodhisattvas in Dunhuang Mogaoku of the period from Northern Liang Dynasty(421∼439) to Tang Dynasty(618∼907). The method of this figure and the change of clothing form : 'Dunhuang Mogaoku'1st Volume-4th Volume. The Bodhisattvas' hair style are somehat various ; A part in her hair, Suibal, Gae, Sakbal. A part in Bodhisattvas's hair is observed from Northern Liang Dynasty to Sui Dynasty. But Suibal had been continuous succeeded. Meanwhile, in the periods of Sui and Tand Dynasty, there were the hair styles whose ends were curled up. It is called Eulle Meor-ee. Especially, in Tang Dynasty various styles of Gae were appeared. Doogun was observed from Northern Wei to Tang Dynasty. There were three kinds of head-dress; Samsikkwan(having 3 decoration), Bokwan and Jungmeunkwan(appeared in Tang Dynasty). Meanwhile, Sash let was become more and more decorative. The Upper clothing can be classify into Veil, Samkaksika, Sash, etc. Veil were observed in every period but X shaped one was form Northern Wei and U shaped one was from Northern Zhou Dynasty. After the period of Sui Dynasty U shaped Veil become prevalent. Samkaksika was observed for the first time in Northern Zhou Dynasty. Cutted sam-kaksika was appeared in Sui Dynasty and succeeded to Tang Dynasty. Poncho tyed Samkaksika was also observed in Tang Dynasty. In Westhern Wei Dynasty. daesupo was used into outter garment, which us that chinese influence was deep tell. Sash showed up in Tang Dynasty and it is used for Veil for the whole period of the Dynasty. But using sash for veil was formally hanged on going the lated period of Tang Dynasty. We can observe the sun-moon decoration and the wings of a bird decoration at the Bokwan, Veil, Samkaksika and Sash, etc. It is was the influendce of Sasan Per-sia and India. I will fill up the insufficency of this study wity continous research of ornament(Muktahara) and skirt of Bodhisattva and deeper inquiry of the relationship around the many countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.149-160
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• 2002

Symbolism found in a certain object inherits characteristics from the culture that contains the objects. The purpose of this study was investigate the formative beauty of Korean trousers twisted the pieces together based on the way of Korean thinks and the Topology. The shape is formed by cutting from the fabric. From the perspective of semiology, the fabric and the pattern shape correspond to ground and figure. Ground and figure are identical with the principle of the whole and the part, which is the same in Korea, China, and the West. But In Korea, the 3-dimensional garment is made by adding a twist. This is very important and defines the difference in the way of thinking and topology. Korean trousers consist of three parts : Hury, Marupok, and Sapok. The small Sapok can be made by removing the Marupok and large Sapok (figure) from the fabric (ground) when making Korean trousers. A Mobius strip is made when the large Sapok is adjoined with the small Sapok by reversing the small Sapok, making a 180$^{\circ}$twist and then stitching together. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi. thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strop. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi, thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strip. Hury is cylinder while the small and large Sapok make up the Mobius strip. As a result, Mobius strip, Kleins'bottle, protective plan can be applied in cutting Hanbok used in the countryside, so I have come to see that the traditional Korean way of thinking is closely related to the theory of topological.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.108-121
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• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.846-858
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• 2008

This study was designed to propose a method to draft bodice block pattern from 3D body scan data. Subjects were ten elderly women in their 60's, who wear basic size(B: 94cm, W: 82cm) garment. Scanning was done using 3D whole body scanner(WB4, Cyberware). Measurements for 3D data and cross section were attained using Auto CAD, by which a upper bodice pattern for elderly women was drawn on the basis of short measured method. The results are as following: As for most items, no significant differences were shown between measurements from Martin's anthropometry and those from 3D scan data, suggesting measurement from 3D scan data could be used to draft a pattern. The drafting equations acquired were as follows; width of pattern=B/2+5.5, width of waist=W/2+3.5cm, dart amount=8cm. Dart distributions were 23%(B.P.) : 20%(front armpit) : 17%(side seam) : 18%(back armpit) : 15%(back protruded point) : 7% (center back line). Through wearing test using 5-point Likert scale, resultant pattern was evaluated as appropriate for elderly women's pattern to get over 4 point. As a result, it might be said that 3D scanning application is effective for elderly women in that it doesn't take time so much as Martin's anthropometry and that their body shape vary compared with those of young women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.687-697
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• 2017

To figure out an appropriate pressure level for a body warming base layer, human responses were observed when the pattern reduction of base layers varied. Under the condition of $2^{\circ}C$, 60% RH, 0.1m/s, ten male subjects participated in the experiment with four sizes of experimental vests where heating pads were attached. The subjective evaluations of the heating vests with different sizes were reported using 7 or 9 point scales. We simultaneously observed chest, abdomen and scapula skin temperatures and microclimate humidity. It was found that the tight pattern as in the case of A or B provided a warmer subjective sensation and skin temperature than C or D; however, there were no differences in skin temperature at the chest. Eventually, the chest temperature decreased after about 30 mins of heating; however, temperature of abdomen increased and indicated that heating with two commercial pads used was inadequate for whole body warming. The pressure sensation of 'tight' was improved after warming the abdomen in a cold environment. Overall, the gaps beyond the original circumference of the abdomen, as in C or D, were not desirable for the local heating of abdomen under the conditions of this experiment where walking was included in the protocol. The experiment garment B with nude waist circumference was the best, and D with the largest ease, was the worst for a comfortable warming vest.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.47-65
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• 2017

This study is intended to compare an actual wedding dress being made completely through 3D software, and compare it with an actual dress of a real model by using collective tools for comparative analysis. The method of the study was conducted via a literature review along with the production of the dresses. In the production, two wedding dresses for the small wedding ceremony were designed. Each of the design was made into both 3D and an actual garment. The results are as follows. First, the 3D whole body scanner reflects the measure of the exact human body size, however there were some difficulties in matching what the customer wanted, because the difference of the skin color and the hair style. Second, the pattern of the dress is much more easily altered than it was in the real production. Third, the silhouette of the virtual and the actual person with the dress was nearly the same. Fourth, textile tool was much more convenient because of the use of real-time rendering on the virtual dresses. Lastly, the lace and biz decoration were flat, and the luster was duller than in reality. Prospectively, the consumer will decide their own design of variety through the use of the avatar without wearing the actual dresses, and they would demand what the another one desired, different from the presented ones by making the corrections by themselves. Through this process, the consumer would be actively participating in the design, a step which would finally lead to the two way designing rather than the one way design of present times.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.6
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• pp.140-202
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• 2004

Body means 1)the whole structure and substance of a man, animal, or plant 2) the trunk or torso of a man or animal 3) part of garment that covers the trunk 4) the fresh or material substance, as opposed to the spirit. Human body could be distinguished as fresh and spirit. Body has the meaning of physicality. Physical means the bodily and constitution, but in the meaning of constitution there is the content of spirituality. Physicality means the appearing or arising of trace or image or nuance of body. The paintings which are using bodies are 1) directly draw bodies 2) twisting or transformation or nuance of the body and highly upgrade the physical emotion or fantastic bodily nuance 3) directly rubbing artist's body on the surface of painting with pigments to elect tactile specification. These physical art have appeared broadly by various artists, mainly with the social aspects of sex, drug, psycho sexual issues. In case of Joel peter Whitkin, the reason of strong physicality in the art is from the mind of the rejection and resistance of real world which is targeting top, perfect and beauty. Further explanation, being the world which is separated top and under, men and women, beauty and ugly; further in the situation, the hierarchy, terror and pressure began and many difficult problems has derived. The contents of attacking feminists's art works are very obscene to reveal female and male's phallus strongly. Sometime, it is strongly related in the political issues. The physical paintings have strong meanings in the action by hands and feet. It supports that it could reveal the humanity with smell, breath, and traces of bodies. In the bodies, the origin of life begins which gives human life by blood lines and water. Sometime, the physical paintings are made by the blood and urine to stick the physicality for special nuance. The physical paintings are made by the image of penis and clitoris which are related in the image of urinating, ejaculation and sometime is symbolized as pens and candles to drop liquid. The selected painters who are related in physical painting are Jackson Pollock, Andrea Serano, Eve Klein, Francis Bacon, Francesco Clemente, Lichard Long, Jakes & Dinos Chapman, Anselm Kiefer, Kiki Smith and Park, Ki Woong. Francis Bacon's style is destructive in representing human shapes which give us special message about the unbearable activity of men politician, high brain, wealthy and religious people. Francesco Clemente's method is to use throat, ear hole, mouse, clitoris, belly nostrils and every holes of body to transmute human physical body. Lichard Long uses directly his body in drawing the surface of painting by using liquid of mud Jakes & Dinos Chapman destroys or transforms the bodies of human. It sometime appears wrong location of the bodies that the penis and vulva is in between human faces or nose of women, Anselm Kiefer uses human hair for representing the human decaying martyrs, and indirectly using straw, he gives special ritual action to repent the Nazi's fault. From 2002 to 2003, Park KI Woong used women womb images to intermingle the smoke shape of <9.11 terror, 2001> in New York to reveal the painful situation of the time(*).