• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.527-539
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• 2019

This study examined the Chinese style in the Vivienne Tam collection as well as explored diversity and modern interpretation of a Chinese style used in modern fashion. The study also investigated the concept and history of the Chinese style as well as analyzed the Chinese style in the collection based on a consideration of a Chinese element that is the basic structure with an understanding of Vivienne Tam and general collection themes. As a result of research, the Chinese style appeared in the Vivienne Tam collection was comprehensive with 43 Chinese elements including Animals, Flower & Grass among the Nature elements, Mythology Religion among the Figure elements, Historical Artifacts, Clothing, Oral Literature, Entertainment, Fine Arts. Technique, Folk holiday among Culture elements and Philosophy among Spirit elements, which accounted for 57.6% of the collection. The formative characteristics that included Chinese elements were extended, abstracted, distorted or transformed; in addition, some abstract elements were embodied into animals, images and certain particular forms to present a theme. In addition to two-dimensional method to print Chinese elements on fabric, they were also expressed as a three-dimensional texture or a silhouette, achieving clear and bold harmony. The aesthetic characteristic is a mixture of Eastern and Western way of thinking. Her costume has a political and historical meaning beyond the imitation of elements that represent the development of a pleasant and interesting design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.33-68
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• 1993

The purpose of this paper is to survey the influence of the culture change on the dress and personal adornments, and to survey the change of factors from the August 15. 1945 to 1960, in connection with the social and cultural background, applying B. Malinowski′s "Theory of Culture Change" which means an acculturation is the change′s elements of the dress and its ornaments. It is remarkable that the dress and personal adornments of Korean women after August 15, 1945 has great change from the traditional dress of the thousands years. Through the Liveration on August 15, 1945, American military government and the establishment of the Korean government, American democracy has brought many changes on Korean society. Advancement of education, an society with developed economic life, and introduction of scientific skill have influenced on the women′s way of thinking and a style of behavior and the view of value. The acculturation, the supply of mass communication, introduction of new institution and the reorganization of the old institution, the change of the economic situation, the change of the educational system, the change of the point of value, the development of scientific skill have greatly influenced on the dress and personal adornments. Modern dress and personal adornments of Korean women has the following developing procedure. The Liberation from Japan on the 15th, of August, 1945, the stationing of American Soldiers during hte Koran War, returning of the oversea′s brethern, and the mass communication have the direct and indirect contact with western civilization, and bring the occasion of development of the modern dress of Korean women. The increase of mass communication, such as radio, TV, newspaper, magazines and the frequent fashion shows showed fine design and practical western style dress to the women. This was the real beginning of the western style dress in Korea. By the increase of employment and the improvement of the economic situation, the consumption of clothing and the adornments was increased, so that a wide variety of fashions was set, and numerous kind and form of dress came in. As the increase of the number of women students, their practical and free dress life demanded western style dress. After the Liberation from Japan, the open-door policy of sex, public morals and traditional ethics became lax, and in this disordered society, indecent expose of the body was common. By the different kind of technological development, the form, fabrics, colors and patterns in clothes were much influenced and the hair style, make up, shoes and adornments were much influenced too. As shown above, the change of the dress has the same connection with that of society and culture. This shows that the dress and personal adornments represent clearly the cultural phenomenon of the society and cultural change of the society.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• 영재교육연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.395-426
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• 2010

이 연구의 목적은 성공적인 영재 양육 사례라 할 수 있는 창조적 성취자의 부모를 동서양으로 구분하여 고찰함으로써 영재 양육의 문화적 보편성과 특수성을 발견하는데 있다. 본 연구에서는 서양 인물로는 마리 퀴리, 아인슈타인, 에디슨, 뉴턴을 동양 인물로는 이황, 이이, 정약용, 허난설헌의 부모를 대상으로 선정하여 창조적 성취자를 키운 양육 특성에 대해 고찰하였다. 이를 위해 본 연구는 양육자에 대한 역사적 기록물, 자녀인 창조적 성취자의 전기, 평전, 자서전, 저서, 양육자와 주고받은 편지 외에 필요에 따라 국내외 연구 논문, 단행본, 영재교육기관의 간행물 등의 다양한 자료를 활용하였다. 동서양 8인의 양육자가 보인 양육 방식의 공통점은 자녀의 재능 영역에 대한 교육적 역량 소지, 재능 영역에서의 학습 가능 환경 또는 기회의 제공, 강요하지 않는 교육, 독립심 강인한 정신력의 강조, 혁신 개방적 사고방식, 한쪽 부모의 절대적 지지를 들 수 있다. 동서양 양육 방식의 가장 큰 차이점들은 서양의 부모들은 자녀 교육의 목표로서 재능 개발 및 성취를 장려했으나 동양의 부모들은 자녀의 전인적 발달에 강조점을 두고 있다는 점, 서양의 부모가 자녀와 수평적 관계로 상호 작용 하였음에 반해 동양의 부모들은 자녀와 수직적 관계를 보였다는 점, 서양의 부모는 적극적으로 정서를 표현하는 양육 방식을 보였으나 동양의 부모는 정서 표현을 억제하는 모습을 보였다는 점, 그리고 서양의 부모가 자녀에게 실수하는 모습, 잘못된 모습까지 여과 없이 그대로 보여준 것에 비해 동양의 부모들은 자식에게 모범을 보이기 위해 일상생활에서 스스로 노력하는 모습을 보였다는 점 등이 두드러진 차이점으로 나타났다. 각각과 관련하여 영재양육과 관련한 시사점이 논의되었다.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.212-220
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• 2023

The meticulous figure painting is one of the wonders of traditional Chinese painting and has blossomed in art history with its unique and interesting style. The period from the Warring States period to the Song and Yuan dynasties was a glorious period in its history, after which it tended to decline due to changes in painting materials and many socio-historical reasons. The extensive cultural exchanges in the world today, the penetration of Western values and the expansion of information technology have brought a huge impact on Chinese meticulous figure painting, which has developed an active way of thinking and expression after absorbing certain elements of Western culture and thought on the basis of inherited tradition. Contemporary Realistic Figure painters continue to explore new developments in meticulous figure painting in the contemporary context, and give contemporary meticulous figure painting a new cultural and ideological connotation, forming a new look that meets the requirements of the times, with richer and more lively content, subject matter and formal language. Traditional meticulous figure painting is characterised by a highly refined use of line and coloring composition. Contemporary meticulous figure painting focuses on the use of purely formal language and the expression of the personality of the creative subject, with a new outlook on the world of painting. In the contemporary multicultural context, new formal language and methods of expression are constantly being explored to create a new look. In the process of development, contemporary meticulous figure painting has merged the best qualities of traditional and contemporary culture, making it an art with a subtle language, rich in meaning and with the charm of the times and oriental characteristics. The author in the form of contemporary fine brushwork figure painting language as the research object, explore new form of fine brushwork figure painting, and in the contemporary society and multicultural context factors. Innovation, enrich and develop new forms of art language of contemporary social form and aesthetic temperament and interest.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.261-274
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• 1996

In the present age dominate by both cer-taingty of 1% and uncertainty of 99% 'Fuzzy thinking' of Bart Kosko that is the way to solve the problems by the scientific way through a worldview of Buddhism or Taoism greatly prevails around the world over 'Lateral greatly prevails around the world over 'Lateral thinking' and the authenticity or the right and-wrong of the uncertainty which is the thinking way to find the answer of the problems of illogical way of Edward de Beno against the western vertical thinking were Concurrently fashion designers over the world also adopt the oriental elements. But there exist differences of thoughts between the orient and the occident. And they have dif-ferent thinking way of aestheticism and references of the value on the beauty. Not only beauty but the view through the mind as intuitional thought in which not only the rec-ognition of sense but also the rationalism and the naturalness play key role. The aesthetic sense in the orient contains both the truth and virtue. 2) The beauty of the mean It's from the thought of neutralization of Confucius. The mean or moderation state which in harmony with ethical virtue and aes-thetic beauty is the ideal and is the ultimate. Therefore the thought of Confucian is the creativity in which the balance and the har-mony is most important. Fashion design is also one of the representation of the mean because the spirit of the designer is harmonized for-mlessly with the object of the model of the fashion design. 2) The beauty of skillfulness It indicates the Taoism of Lao-tzu and Chuangtzu. It takes a super-artistic declar-ation that human can feel and recognize the color of colorlessness the sound of sound-lessness and the taste of tastelessness. The thought of arts affected by Taoism is 'ad-vanced age' called the beauty of skillfulness. The view of arts of lao-tzu takes the beauty of cosmos and the nature as a standard. Es-pecially the beauty of inactivity is recognized by the linkage between the beauty and the ugliness. And these things appear in fashion design as a design element such as humor or exaggeration. 3) The beauty of non-dualism It is thought of Buddhism that all evil passions of worry occur form the opposition in dualism. Finally this thought leads to that everything is consistent and truth is only one from the point of view that virtue and vice has on linkage that is 'no virtues no vices' and 'one with two, two, with one, one is not two' A big tendency like this became the root forma-tion of the thought of the oriental arts. 3. Characteristics of the oriental aesthetic sense on the present fashion design 1) The formation of the fashion design on the oriental elements In the picture-incantation which was a representation of an era when the thought of 'cosmic dual forces' dominated the basic polygons of 'a circle square triangle' means both 'one two three' and 'the negative positive mean' of cosmic elements. From this point of view the was of planner cutting in the Orient is dif-ferent from that of the Occidental which is in three-dimensional. The planner polygon type of the cut-pieces comes to have the meaning of the three-dimension when they consist of a suit that has the combination of each cut-piece. This shows the consistency with the principle of cosmos creation of Taoism that one is two two is three and three is every-thing. 2) The coloring and the symbolic represen-tation of the fashion design on the orien-tal elements The sense on the colors in the Orient from the thought of 'the cosmic dual forces and the five elements' is not the experi-enced from the knowledge but contains the consideration of philosophy Five-primary-color representing compass directions Blue(East) Red(South) Yellow(Center) White (West) and Black (North) is called ' the posi-tive' for this five-primary-color secondary-color which comes from the compound of the primary colors is called 'the negative' The thought of 'the cosmic dual forces and the five elements' is also an theory containing the natural order of the cos-mos and this shows the perceptional differ-ence that they are not conceptual but to be recognized and fell directly. A thought of Buddhism which is 'Colors are colorlessness and Clolorlessness are color's proves that. 3) The pattern and symbolic representation of the fashion design on the oriental elements The pattern as a visual style is a figure of symbolic representation which adopt the mental and physical world of human and are the compo-sition of artistic revelation of the human nature and the religous thought of incantation. Es-pecially the symbolic representation of the oriental thought of Confusion. Buddhism and Taoism There are patterns such as plants aminals the oriental four gods and geometry. From the above it's the time toward the 21'th century when the world is constructing one global area and one historical zone. And the exotic mood of the Orient represented in the fashion which doesn't make the common feeling in general does not cease to develop only to express the visual modeling but also adopts the thought religion and the art which are the root of the Orientail and contains inherent willing of modeling.

• 한국철학논집
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• 제36호
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• pp.235-258
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• 2013

기존의 생태철학에서, 환경 위기의 원인이 인간과 자연의 분리에 있으므로, 위기를 극복하기 위해선 인간과 자연의 친화가 필요하다고 한다. 우리는 동양사상이야말로 그런 합일성의 전형이라고 주장해 왔다. 실제로 동양의 전통문화 중에는 생태적 의의를 갖고 있는 사상적 내용이 적지 않게 들어있다. 그러나 현대 사회에서 그것이 얼마만큼의 활력과 의미를 갖고 있는지는 말하기 쉽지 않다. 다른 한 편으로 우리가 환경파괴의 주범이라고 생각하고 있는 서양의 사상이 생각만큼 반생태적인 내용을 담고 있지 않을 수도 있다. 따라서 우리는 좀 더 근본적인 곳에서부터 문제를 제기하고 답을 찾아 나가기 위해 "서양의 자연관은 반생태적인가?"라는 물음과 "동양의 자연관은 생태적인가?"라는 물음을 던지고 이에 대해 다시 검토해 볼 필요성이 있다. 특히 전자의 물음에 대해서는 적지 않은 연구가 있었기 때문에 후자의 물음에 대해 주목할 필요가 있으며 그에 대한 해답을 제시할 수 있다면 동양 생태 사상의 현대적 전환과 실천적 의의를 찾을 수 있는 단초를 제공하게 될 것이라 생각한다. 생태문제는 이론의 문제라기보다는 실천의 문제이다. 어떻게 실천을 가능하게 할 것인가의 문제이다. 개인과 국가, 기업 모두 어떻게 사는 것이 궁극적으로 가치 있는 삶인지 자각하지 못한다면 생태문제의 해결은 요원하다. 한 사람만의 자각으로는 해결이 불가능하며 생태문화의 사회적 조성과 교육이 동반되어야 한다. 이 과정에서 전통적인 환경 이해 방식과 사상을 비판적으로 고찰하고 객관적으로 바라봐야 할 필요성이 생기는 것이다. 동양 전통 문화가 담고 있는 풍부한 생태 사상적 요소의 보편적 가치는 그것이 현대적으로 전환될 수 있는 가능성을 실현시켜 줄 수 있는 기초가 된다. 그러나 보편적 가치만으로 그것이 현대적 이론으로 전환되어 실천과 연결될 수 있는지는 별도의 문제이다. 앞에서 언급했던 것처럼 생태 사상은 이론 문제이기 이전에 실천문제이다. 아무리 훌륭하고 잘 갖추어진 이론이라 할지라도 실천과 연결될 수 있는 현실적 길을 찾지 못한다면 그것은 아무 쓸모가 없는 것이다. 그러나 동양 전통 생태사상이 현대적으로 전환될 수 있는 가능성은 얼마든지 있다. 앞에서도 말했듯이 생태사상의 문제는 이론뿐만 아니라 실천이 병행되어야 하는 것이며, 과거의 문제가 아니라 현재의 문제이기 때문에 미리 답안을 정해놓고 문제를 검토하는 것이 아닌 오늘날의 입장에서 끊임없이 새로운 문제를 제시하고 답안을 찾으려 할 때 동양 생태사상의 현대적 전환은 어느 정도 가능성을 보게 될 것이다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.169-176
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• 2004

최근 우리나라의 ‘웰빙’ 현상이 상품화된 웰빙의 유사 이데올로기라는 점에서는 논의의 여지가 없다. 그럼에도 불구하고, 웰빙철학의 기저에서 낚아 올릴 수 있는 한국 디자인의 문화적 컨텐츠로서의 잠재적 가치마저 간과할 필요는 없을 것이다. ‘행복’과 ‘안녕’이라는 사전적 의미를 넘어 웰빙은 마음의 평안과 정신적 풍요로움을 지향함으로써 ‘심신일원론’적 라이프 스타일을 옹호하고 있다. 소비주의에 편승한 유행으로서의 웰빙의 상품미학을 한국의 문화적 정체성을 보유한 대안 담론으로 승화시켜 우리나라 디자인 컨텐츠의 고유모델로 자리매김하기 위해서는 웰빙이라는 보편적 기호가 담지하고 있는 양질의 문화적 가치에 대한 발굴이 요청된다. ‘자연의 도’를 따르는 생활태도와 다름 아닌 웰빙은 동아시아의 탈-이원론적 사유방식의 전형인 것이다. 동아시아의 일원론적 사상과 조형의식 속에 이미 자리하고 있는 웰빙의 흔적을 역으로 추적함으로써 작금의 웰빙 현상과 심신일원론을 연결하는 계보를 좁게는 한국, 넓게는 동아시아의 문화적 전통 속에서 발견할 수 있다. 몸과 마음이 본디 둘이 아니라 하나라는 동아시아의 일원론적 사유체계를 서구로부터 수입된 웰빙 현상의 이론적 모태로 삼을 경우, 한국의 디자인 담론이 탈-식민화 되는 단초가 마련될 전망이다. 서구 중심의 이원론적 패러다임에 대한 반성을 토대로 새로운 가치를 모색해야 하는 성찰적 근대화의 시대에 일원론적 인식에 기반하는 웰빙이 국내외 디자인계에 던져줄 잠재적 의미성에 기대를 걸어볼 일이다.

• 동양고전연구
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• 제55호
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• pp.115-145
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• 2014

본고에서는 19세기 말 20세기 초, 전통과 근대의 전환기 양계초(梁啓超)의 소설계혁명을 중심으로 중국 소설의 위상 변천과 근대 지식 장의 변화를 살펴보고자 했다. 전통소설은 어떻게 평가되어 왔는지, 근대소설은 어떻게 국민을 계몽시키고 어떻게 정치사회를 변혁시킬 수 있었는지, 또 소설은 지식 장의 변화에서 어떤 역할을 추동하고 있었는지 고찰하고자 했다. 특히 서구문화의 충격과 유입에 중점을 맞춰온 그 간의 연구경향에서 간과되기 쉬웠던 중국 자체 내 지적(知的) 축적과 변화를 아울러 조명하고자 했다. 먼저 전통시기 소설에 대한 평가와 분류 방식을 검토했다. 소설을 지식장의 변화를 살펴보는 하나의 텍스트라고 상정할 때 시대마다 변화된 인식과 목록서의 분류방식은 학문적 위상을 반영하는 근거이기 때문이다. 이후 소설과 정치사회의 관계, 소설과 글쓰기 문체의 두 가지 방면에서 양계초의 소설계혁명을 고찰해 보고, 근대 지식사회의 변화에 대해 논의함으로써 근대를 사유하는 한 방식으로 소설을 이해하고자 했다. 양계초는 소설을 문학의 최상층으로 부각시켰다. 수천 년간 유지되어온 정통문학 시가의 위상을 밀어내고 주변부에 위치해 있던 통속문학소설을 위치시켰다. 서구 문명의 외래적 충격은 중국소설을 우민(愚民)을 계몽시키는 도구이자 지식을 전파하는 매개체로 만들었고 이전 어느 시기에도 부여받지 못했던 최고의 위상으로 격상시켰다. 소설 자체의 심미적 예술성에서 근거한 것이 아닌, 정치 사회적 효용성에서 기인한 평가라는 한계점이 있지만, 소설은 구국을 위한 생존의 담론이었고, 국민의 정신을 개조하고 망국의 위기를 전환시켜줄 지식의 담지체였다.