• Title/Summary/Keyword: Ways of expressing materials

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A Study of Playfulness Shown in the Haute Couture Collections - Mainly Focused on Works after the Year 2000 - (오뜨꾸뛰르 컬렉션에 나타난 유희성에 관한 연구 - 2000년 이후 작품을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Sun-Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.16 no.3
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    • pp.475-487
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    • 2008
  • The purposes of this study are to find the values of playful design by exploring what forms of playful expressions and characteristics appear in the haute couture collections that feature "high culture" other than street fashion or popular fashion and to help expand the scope to include newer and more creative design ideas. Concerning theoretical background, the study reviewed the literature to understand the concept of playfulness and see what types of playfulness there are and how it is expressed. Based on the results, the study examined the features of playfulness by analyzing the works of haute couture collections which since 2000. The results can be summarized as follows: First, designers in the haute couture collections constructed their own identities by expressing their instinctive desire for playfulness through graffiti such as cartoons or scribbles and delivering direct and specific messages or ambiguous and symbolic meanings through such things. Second, the haute couture collections revealed the human body in a transformed or distorted shape through deformation of clothes or accessories presented brand-new dressing styles by breaking away from the past ways of dressing; and expressed playfulness intentionally with distorted materials. Third, is the "depaysement" technique. This collage technique selects all possible objects going beyond inartistic routine matters or boundaries of which we are aware and changes their positions and purposes of use to express the playfulness of "harmony in disharmony." Fourth, the haute couture collections created a feeling of playfulness by featuring parodies of retro elements, a slice of popular culture, or a variety of painting styles. Finally, like using dolls or toys as accessories or making direct use of parts of clothes, combinations between attributes given by the images of those accessories themselves and creativities found in haute couture dresses are just as fun of authoritarian bias in favor of prestigiousness.

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Production of ρ-Hydroxyacetophenone by Engineered Escherichia coli Heterologously Expressing 1-(4-Hydroxyphenyl)-Ethanol Dehydrogenase

  • Wenmei Wu;Xiwei Yuan;Xin Gao;Chaoyang Tan;Shunxiang Li;Dehong Xu
    • Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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    • v.34 no.2
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    • pp.467-475
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    • 2024
  • ρ-Hydroxyacetophenone is an important and versatile compound that has been widely used in medicine, cosmetics, new materials, and other fields. At present, there are two ways to obtain ρ-hydroxyacetophenone. One is to extract it from plants, such as Artemisia capillaris Thunb and Cynanchum otophyllum Schneid, and the other is to synthesize it by using chemical methods. Of these two methods, the second is the main one, although it has problems, such as flammable and explosive reagents, difficult separation of by-products, and harsh reaction conditions. To solve these issues, we adopted genetic engineering in this study to construct engineered Escherichia coli containing Hped gene or EbA309 gene. Whole-cell biotransformation was conducted under the same conditions to select the engineered E. coli with the higher activity. Orthogonal tests were conducted to determine the optimal biotransformation condition of the engineered E. coli. The results showed that the optimal condition was as follows: substrate concentration of 40 mmol/l, IPTG concentration of 0.1 mmol/l, an induction temperature of 25℃, and a transformation temperature of 35℃. Under this condition, the effects of transformation time on the ρ-hydroxyacetophenone concentration and cell growth were further studied. We found that as the transformation time extended, the ρ-hydroxyacetophenone concentration showed a gradually increasing trend. However, when the ρ-hydroxyacetophenone concentration increased to 1583.19 ± 44.34 mg/l in 24 h, cell growth was inhibited and then entered a plateau. In this research, we realized the synthesis of ρ-hydroxyacetophenone by biotransformation, and our findings lay a preliminary foundation for further improving and developing this method.

A Study on the Orphism Expression Effect in Contemporary Fashion (현대 패션에 표현된 오르피즘 특성)

  • Jin Kwon
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.25 no.3
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    • pp.97-111
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    • 2023
  • Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.

Study on the Surface Design Used in S.F.A.A. Collection (SFAA 컬렉션에 활용된 서페이스 디자인연구)

  • 김주희;금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.1
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    • pp.129-143
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    • 2002
  • Patterns are something that comes out of necessity in human life, which is closely associated with it. Thus come the SFAA (Seoul Fashion Artists Association) collection which uses patterns varying in form, color, way of expression and material. For this research, I first categorized the patterns the SFAA designers used into: natural patterns, symmetric patterns, traditional patterns, stripe, plaid, dot and abstract patterns. As a result of the process. the designers most favored the natural patterns and symmetric patterns, and dot patterns were rarely used. The designer who most favored patterns in general was Sul Yun-hyoung, and the designer Kim Chul-ung rarely favored the surface effect. The seven kinds of patterns naturally differ according to the designer. as Park Hang-chi liked to use the plaid patterns along with yam dyeing material, whereas Jin Teok expressed stripe patterns using the yarn dyeing fabric. Natural patters were presented in a bizarre way with Lie Sang-bong. who took the motives appearing in Eastern ceramic and paintings into the clothes, using the print method. The symmetric patterns, which the SFAA designers most preferred. was used evenly among designers like Chang Kwang-hyo, Gee Choon-hee. Rubina, and Haneza. In contrast. Lie Sang-bong. who used abstract patterns that do not give out meaning of the actual form of the pattern. rarely used symmetric patterns. The dot patterns were most often used by Park Youn-soo. and traditional patterns were overwhelmingly chosen by Sul Yun-hyoung. Secondly. in expressing the colors, SFAA designers were much more likely to choose achromatic colors. not choosing to show off colors. This is especially apparent in works by Haneza and Lie Sang-bong. In the SFAA collections, numerous methods were used to create. For instance, Sul Yun-hyoung used the oriental embroidery method. and Rubina and Lie Sang-bong used many unique dying methods. In terms of materials, Sul Yun-hyoung preferred silk. due to her methods, and Lie Sang-bong was one of the designers that used a number of different materials such as vinyl. Jacques Mueclier of the Paris Clothes Association in France, who was invited to SFAA collection once, remarked. "While the choice of material and the actual sewing done were excellent, there lacked much difference among the designers, as most of them choose flowing silhouette In terms of composition," which is all too correct. In addition, there were cases in the collection where the inherent feelings of cultural artifacts was expressed without alteration. Summing up, the research aimed to analyze the surface expression methods, forms and color of SFAA designs. and I hope that it can open up ways for new projects in the future.he future.

A Study of the Formative Characteristics in Architecture and Fashion of the Modernism Period (모더니즘 시대의 건축과 패션에 나타난 조형적 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Kim Hye-Young;Hur Da-Sul
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.4 s.94
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    • pp.62-78
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    • 2005
  • The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.

History of Domestic Web Design - Focused on Design Expression Techniques and Technological Changes - (국내 웹 디자인 변천사 - 디자인 표현기법과 기술적 변화를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, HyunJu;Hong, MiHee
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.20 no.3
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    • pp.200-208
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    • 2020
  • The domain of Web design gradually expands with the utilization of the Web and the development of technologies, but there are insufficient related studies. Thus, this study would recognize the importance of the Web design market and present the direction of designs in the future by investigating the process of changes in Web design. This study investigated the background of the revelation and evolution of design expression techniques and the flow of the information technology affecting the design and conducted a study analyzing the process of changes of Web design based on this. It is judged that this study has significance as the baseline research material for the expansion of the Web design domain of the future. As for the scope of the research, based on 30 years of the history of the Web, this study was conducted with materials on Websites, which had become issues from 1990 through the early-2000s and selected the winners of a grand prize in Web Award Korea since the mid-2000s as the subjects of analysis. This study analyzed the formative characteristics of design expression techniques and the characteristics of the information technology that affected Web design. As a result of the research, changes in design expression techniques could be divided broadly into minimalism and skeuomorphism, and it was found that the methods of expressing Web designs changed in various ways, affected by the development of information technology. It is predicted that with the emergence of various devices and the vitalization of video contents, the designs affected by minimalism, which can harmonize with them, will continue in the future.

A Study on the Bottom-Emitting Characteristics of Blue OLED with 7-Layer Laminated Structure (7층 적층구조 배면발광 청색 OLED의 발광 특성 연구)

  • Gyu Cheol Choi;Duck-Youl Kim;SangMok Chang
    • Clean Technology
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    • v.29 no.4
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    • pp.244-248
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    • 2023
  • Recently, displays play an important role in quickly delivering a lot of information. Research is underway to reproduce various colors close to natural colors. In particular, research is being conducted on the light emitting structure of displays as a method of expressing accurate and rich colors. Due to the advancement of technology and the miniaturization of devices, the need for small but high visibility displays with high efficiency in energy consumption continues to increase. Efforts are being made in various ways to improve OLED efficiency, such as improving carrier injection, structuring devices that can efficiently recombine electrons and holes in a numerical balance, and developing materials with high luminous efficiency. In this study, the electrical and optical properties of the seven-layer stacked structure rear-light emitting blue OLED device were analyzed. 4,4'-Bis(carazol-9-yl)biphenyl:Ir(difppy)2(pic), a blue light emitting material that is easy to manufacture and can be highly efficient and brightened, was used. OLED device manufacturing was performed via the in-situ method in a high vacuum state of 5×10-8 Torr or less using a Sunicel Plus 200 system. The experiment was conducted with a seven-layer structure in which an electron or hole blocking layer (EBL or HBL) was added to a five-layer structure in which an electron or hole injection layer (EIL or HIL) or an electron or hole transport layer (ETL or HTL) was added. Analysis of the electrical and optical properties showed that the device that prevented color diffusion by inserting an EBL layer and a HBL layer showed excellent color purity. The results of this study are expected to greatly contribute to the R&D foundation and practical use of blue OLED display devices.