• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2002

Directional breaking waves are generated by the component wave focusing both in direction and frequency based on constant wave steepness and constant wave amplitude spectrum models. The generated breaking waves are classified in the incipient, single and multi breaking waves. The characteristics of directional breaking waves are investigated in terms of surface profile parameters of wave crest steepness and asymmetry. The evolution of breaking wave characteristics is analyzed in a view of focusing efficiency. It shows that the front steepness and vertical asymmetry play an important role in breaking process, while the crest rear steepness and horizontal asymmetry are nearly constant during the process. The superposition of directional components greatly enhances the focusing efficiency and it suggests that characteristics of directional breaking waves may significantly different from uni-directional ones.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.193-201
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• 1993

Experimental investigation of nonlinear instability of deep-water wave train is performed. Two-dimensional Benjamin-Feir type wave instability and breaking are observed at wave steepness between 0.19 and 0.25 and three-dimensional instability and breaking at wave steepness greater than or equal to 0.31. At the same wave steepness, shorter waves with smaller amplitude are more unstable, with earlier occurrence of breaking, than long waves with large amplitude.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.143-153
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• 2019

In this study, numerical simulations for the prediction of added resistance for KVLCC2 with varying wave steepness are performed using a Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) method and a 3-D linear potential method, and then the non-linearities of added resistance and ship motions are investigated in regular short and long waves. Firstly, grid convergence tests in short and long waves are carried out to establish an optimal mesh system for CFD simulations. Secondly, numerical simulations are performed to predict ship added resistance and vertical motion responses in short and long waves and the results are verified using the available experimental data. Finally, the non-linearities of added resistance and ship motions with unsteady wave patterns in the time domain are investigated with the increase in wave steepness in both short and long waves. The present systematic study demonstrates that the numerical results have a reasonable agreement with the experimental data and emphasizes the non-linearity in the prediction of the added resistance and the ship motions with the increasing wave steepness in short and long waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.355-360
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• 2007

The process of the nonlinear shallow water wave transformation in a basin of a constant depth is studied. Characteristics of the first breaking of the wave are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave are calculated. It is shown that the spectral amplitudes can be expressed using the wave front steepness, which allows the practical estimations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.228-234
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• 2012

Two-dimensional hydraulic experiments for wave overtopping under non-breaking wave condition are conducted. The wave overtopping formula for vertical structure is suggested and the results are compared with EurOtop (2007). The relative water depth coefficient (${\gamma}_{kh}$) shows that almost the same coefficient is obtained for certain range (kh > 1.55) regardless of relative water depth, that is, although the relative water depth becomes larger, the relative water depth coefficient is almost same. When the wave steepness becomes larger the wave steepness coefficient decreases. The overtopping formula are expressed by relative freeboard(R) and non-dimensional wave overtopping rate(Q) and this formula has the form of exponential function. In this formula, the effects of wave period on wave overtopping are quantitatively investigated and suggested through the relative water depth coefficient(${\gamma}_{kh}$) and wave steepness coefficient(${\gamma}_s$).

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2023

The motion of small fishing vessels is significantly affected by small waves, leading to accidents, such as capsizing or sinking. This paper presents the results of two types of basin tests. The first test analyzed the characteristics of roll and pitch motions among regular waves with the same wave steepness using the drifting state of three (3G/T, 7G/T, 10G/T) small fishing vessels. The second test analyzed the motion characteristics of the 7G/T fishing vessel under different wave steepness. The first test showed that heave and roll motions are significant in the beam sea, while pitch motion is significant in the bow and stern seas. The second test shows that wave steepness has a linear relationship with roll and pitch motions in the bow and stern seas.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.300-309
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• 2008

The partial safety factors of armor stones have been calculated on the assumption that all random variables are independent one another. However, wave height and wave steepness are not independent in the van der Meer's formula of armor stones but they are correlated. In the present study, we calculated the partial safety factors considering the correlation and compared them with those of other researchers who did not consider the correlation. The correlation between wave height and steepness is closely related to the variability of wave period. As the variability of wave period decreases, the correlation between wave height and steepness becomes strong, and hence the calculation results with and without consideration of the correlation show more difference. Therefore, the correlation should be taken into account in the calculation of partial safety factors in the area where the variability of wave period is small.

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.44-54
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• 2015

Breakwaters are the coastal structures constructed either perpendicular (shore connected) or parallel (detached) to the coast. The main function of breakwater is to create a tranquil medium on its leeside by reflecting the waves and also dissipating the wave energy arriving from seaside, resulting in ease of manoeuvrability to boats or ships to their berthing places. Different types of breakwaters are being used at present, such as rubble mound breakwater, vertical wall type breakwater and composite breakwater. The objective of this paper is to investigate reflection coefficients (Kr) and dissipation (loss) coefficients (Kl) for physical models of Quarter circle caisson breakwater of three different radii of 0.550 m, 0.575 m and 0.600 m with S/D ratio of 2.5 (S=spacing between perforations, D=diameter of perforations). The models were tested in the monochromatic wave flume of the department, for different incident wave heights (Hi), Wave periods (T) and water depths (d). It was observed that reflection coefficient increased with increase in the wave steepness (Hi/gT2) and decreased with increase in depth parameter (d/gT2) and hs/d (Height of structure including rubble base/depth of water). The loss coefficient decreased with increase in the wave steepness and increased with increase in depth parameter and hs/d.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2006.05a
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• pp.1919-1924
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• 2006

In this study, the run-up of water waves on slopes of s-berm breakwaters was investigated by performing a series of hydraulic experiments. The run-up height was analyzed in detail by using the effects of wave steepness and surf similarity parameter. In general, the run-up heights were decreased as the height and the width of berm were increased. However, the variation of run-up height was small for change of wave steepness and surf similarity parameter.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.264-269
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• 2002

The wave profiles of directional breaking waves are investigated experimentally in a directional wave basin. The directional breaking waves are generated by component wave focusing both in direction and frequency based on constant wave steepness and constant wave amplitude spectrum models. the profile parameters of wave crest steepness and asymmetry are adapted to analyze the evolution of breaking ware characteristics in a view of focusing efficiency. The generated breaking waves are classified into the incipient, single and multi breaking waves.