• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2005.05b
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• pp.1078-1082
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• 2005

In this study, the run-up height and reflection property on slopes of S-berm and smooth slopes breakwaters are investigated by laboratory experiment. The run-up height analyzed the effect of reflection coefficient, surf similarity parameter. Measured reflection coefficients of smooth slope breakwaters are compared with those of S-berm breakwater with variable widths. In general, measured coefficients of S-berm breakwaters are smaller than those of smooth slope breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.59-62
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• 1992

Empirical criteria for wave breaking on the coastal slope are substantiated theoretically for complex-shape basins. The theory developed here is a generalization of Carrier-Greenspan theory for a plane beach. The place and role of the linear theory for the description of run-up problem is discussed. The height of run-up on the beach of the basins with a “parabolic” profile is calculated for originally monochromatic wave.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.1-8
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• 2007

A long wave induced by a Gaussian-shape submarine landslide is simulated by a 2D fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT). The NWT is based on the boundary element method and the mixed Eulerian/Lagrangian approach. Using the NWT, physical characteristics of land-slide tsunami, including wave generation, propagation, particle kinematics, hydrodynamic pressure, run-up and depression, are simulated for the early stage of long wave generation and propagation. Various sliding mass heights are applied to the developed model for a systematic sensitivity analysis. In particular, the fully nonlinear NWT results are compared with linear results (exact body-boundary conditions with linear free-surface conditions) to identify the nonlinear effects in the respective cases.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.591-598
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• 2015

A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.155-164
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• 1987

A new design method of rubble mound structures that includes the considerations of stability and wave control is proposed. Using the method, design of structures that reduce the wave reflection and run-up and increase the rubble stability is assured under the given wave conditions. The new design formula is developed so that the allowable prcentage of damage and the wave grouping effects on rubble stability are also considered in design. For this a new definition of the mean run-sum is made. Finally, the new method is applied for the design of uniform and composite slope rubble mound structures and the significant advantages are found.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.18-23
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• 2008

This study investigated interactions between the internal-external wave field of a permeable coastal structure consisting of rubble. The study examined the application criteria of an existing numerical model (CADMAS-SURF V.4.0) and proposed a modified method to provide reasonable results. In particular, the study focused on and emphasized the water surface profiles in front of a structure, wave run-up/run-down on a slope, and internal water level fluctuations due to the drag coefficient and porosity of a rubble mound structure. In conclusion, the result show that when the vertical fluctuations of the internal water levels in permeable coastal structures exhibited high-quality representation. Sane responses can be seen for wave run-up/run-down characteristics on its slopes.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.34-40
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• 2002

A numerical model has been developed for the permeable coastal structures to simulate hydraulic characteristics on the permeable slopes, which interact with internal four field the structures. The model includes hydraulics in the porous medium. Numerical model was calibrated using hydraulic model experiments performed in 2-D wave flume in the Institute of Ocean Hydraulics in PKNU. Better aggrements were obtained with the model which employed inertia resistance term than with the conventional model, PBREAK.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.12-19
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• 2014

Tsunamis are ocean waves generated by movements of the Earth's crust. Several geophysical events can lead to this kind of catastrophe: earthquakes, landslides, volcanic eruptions, and other mechanisms such as underwater explosions. Most of the damage associated with tsunamis are related to their run-up onto the shoreline. Therefore, effectively predicting the run-up process is an important aspect of any seismic sea wave mitigation effort. In this paper, a numerical simulation of the behaviors of a floating body near a quaywall during a tsunami is conducted by using a particle method. First, a solitary wave traveling over shallow water with a slope is numerically simulated, and the results are compared with experiments and other numerical results. Then, the behaviors of floating bodies with different drafts are investigated numerically.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.20 no.6 s.73
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• pp.35-40
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• 2006

In recent years, there's been strong demand for seawalls that havea gentle slope and permeability that serveswater affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates on the coastal structures. A numerical model based on the weak nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable layer, is developed. The applicability of this numerical model is examined through Deguchi and Moriwaki's hydraulic model test on the permeable slopes. From this study, it is found that the proposed numerical model can predict wave transformation and run-up on the gentle slope with a permeable layer, but can't show accurate results for slopes steeper than about 1:10.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.4B
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• pp.429-439
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of run-up height over sandy beach due to the shape of submerged breakwater. For the discussion on it in detail, 3-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation, which is able to simulate directly interaction of Wave Structure Sandy beach (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D; Hur and Lee, 2007) has been used to simulate run-up height over sandy beach as well as wave field around submerged breakwaters. Using the results obtained from numerical simulation, the effects of the shape of submerged breakwaters (crown height, crown width, crown length and submerged breakwater's slope gradient) on run-up height over sandy beach have been discussed related to the wave height distribution and characteristics of up-layer flow around ones.